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Re-Valving an Orange Bass Terror


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  • 2 weeks later...

[quote name='jackers' timestamp='1359131477' post='1950446']
stop horsing around guys :P (already got my coat)

vaguely on topic: what do people use to tame the DI signal on the OTB?
[/quote]
[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1359132138' post='1950469']
Go to Studiospares or similar and search for attenuators ...
[/quote]

Im gonna have to do this as once again, even with new tubes, the soundguy was complaining about 'way too hot'. strangely i turned the bloody thing nearly off and he was till going 'lower'. It does my head right in!! he mic'd it then (dunno why this is anathema to soundmen. 6 strings are mic'd no problem, bass is always a fuss!). unfortunately i dont know (or care to know) the technicalities to argue the toss. the guy was cool though, the sound was great and we had a good time.

...but i really wish I could just plug and play in a live gig like I can in practice!!! :(

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

I just talked with the US-based Orange Tech Support guy about the DI issue. He said that early models 'slipped' out of the factory with hot DI out and it has since been resolved in later production runs. He also said that you can get a warranty repair done to fix it on older builds -or- they will gladly provide the instructions to mod the amp yourself as it is an easy fix if you know how to solder. He also said that if you're just looking for clean headroom, the AT7's will give you more control, but you can still dial in the same headroom by being more judicious with gain knob.

Hope this helps!

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  • 2 weeks later...

sounds interesting. I dunno if that applies in the UK, anyone braver than me wanna investigate? :)

We played a gig on Weds where we had to supply our entire backline (opening local band on one date of Grand Magus UK tour) so I used my Barefaced Compact and the Terror. I finally had a chance to try the Studiospares -30dB... and the sound guy was very happy!! HURRAH!!!

there was still some horrific reverb on the snare and some sonic wash coming from the monitors which was like water torture, but aye, apart from that, all good! why is the sound always sh*tty eh? if it ain't one thing...

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  • 2 months later...

A question that - hopefully - hasn't got anything to do with valves, but one of you more technically-minded bods may be able to help me.

Last night my amp stopped working. The little orange light went out and the fan stopped turning. I've changed the fuse that's located by the input for the kettle lead and I've changed the plug fuse but there's no power getting to the amp.

What do I look at next, please?

Could it be something to do with the valves and, if so, how can I check if they've blown? A visual inspection suggests they're both fine.

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Fitted within 10 minutes, only had a few tight screws to get past and that was it, covers off, old valves out, lined the new valves up(which took a few attempts which bent a few of the connectors a little but just bent them back) then tightened everything back together again.

It really was easy so anyone thinking about it who isn't sure just go for it!

I'll find out more tomorrow when I test it at my band practice at higher volumes but at home I can actually have 12oclock on the gain without it being really dirty! But 3oclock is when it starts getting filthy.

I didn't even use the guide.......ok I just remembered it without looking ;) thanks!

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So band practice was good, my tone was easily the best I've heard it. Classic clanky pbass IMO. The valves were at the stage of just breaking up which I like to give it some beef

Treble - 12 o'clock
Mid - 3 o'clock
Bass - 10 o'clock
Gain - 12 o'clock

I also swapped the pickups back to the originals so its a mixture of things but changing the valves has definitely cleaned things up a bit and has more definition. So I'm pleased and would recommend the valve swap!

Edited by OBT1000_S12
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  • 2 months later...

As said many a time, this thread is bloody fantastic. It deserves a bump, folks.


Anyone know of or tried the Ruby Tubes 12AX7?
They're very expensive, and reportedly both have low gain and a full, robust timbre.

Also, they are hand picked! Yes, no less. I guess a 15 year old girl somewhere in China or wherever looks at the paper box, and starts contemplating which valve to pick for that exact box. Brings a tear to my eye. :-D

b,
b

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[quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1374358494' post='2148103']
12AX7s have the highest gain, then 5751, 12AT7s and 12AY7s.
[/quote]

Yeah, I know, but Ruby Tubes themselves make that claim, and different AXs are different. So I feel they probably mean that these are low gain as far as AXs go.

b,
b

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just swapped the standard JJ ECC83's for a pair of JJ ECC81's and now I have an amp with a usable gain control, not just an on/off switch

Got them from good old eBay. Perfect condition and next day delivery

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230570308734

Literally a 5 minute job to do. Undo 10 screws. Remove the valve covers. Wiggle out the old valves. Reverse the procedure. No techie skills needed.

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  • 6 months later...

[quote name='davehux' timestamp='1376749907' post='2178672']
Just swapped the standard JJ ECC83's for a pair of JJ ECC81's and now I have an amp with a usable gain control, not just an on/off switch

Got them from good old eBay. Perfect condition and next day delivery

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230570308734"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230570308734[/url]

Literally a 5 minute job to do. Undo 10 screws. Remove the valve covers. Wiggle out the old valves. Reverse the procedure. No techie skills needed.
[/quote]

And I've just done the same, I was fairly happy with the amp the way its was, but it did break up about 11 o'clock or even less. Now with the new preamp valves I can get it round to quarter past without any break up, and its a lovely smooth gain. The amp is now very punchy, cant wait to try it with the band tomorrow night now.

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  • 11 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I did the mod with some Philips ECC81's, but the amp didn't have the same punch or presence, even with the gain cranked. Kept it like that for well over a year, but always felt there was something lacking so have gone back to ECC83's. I've fitted EHX valves and they sound great! Very grindy, a lot clearer sounding than stock. The stock valves are very woolly. I also tried Tung Sol which are very dark and not the clearest. Very happy with the EHX this far however.

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  • 11 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Just revisiting this old thread. Still have the 12AT7s in, but hadn't realised that they draw more current than 12AX7s. I'm wondering if this is safe in the long run? I can't remember if Orange allowed for different preamp valves and subsequent current draws through the resistors.

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  • 1 year later...

Again, sorry to bring this back up. I gigged my new (to me) rig on Saturday - an OTB into a TC Electronics K212. Fantastic light, compact and loud rig.The gain was a bit uncontrollable and the dirty sound was quite bass heavy. The soundman struggled with the hot DI. I use a distorted sound but need it to be controllable and a bit more fizzy and less woolly. Any ideas for a valve swap? How about 5751 JJ valves?

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  • 5 months later...

Hiho the early OTB had cheap valves and hot DI.

Later ones had JJ ECC83s valves and sorted DO which  is the one I have.

The trick is the EQ 

Bass-9oclock.middle-12oclock.treble-12oclock.There is a lot of bass on these heads so keep it in from

Valves-early models had cheap valves and a hot DO,later ones like mine had JJECC83s valves and sorted DI.I have tried Mullard  valves but returned to the standard valves. 

 

 

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Related topic - I have re-valved mine and have the Di attenuator but now find the internal casing vibrates. I've taken it off and run a bead of silicone along the seams but it still happens a bit.  Anyone else had this and found an easy fix?

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  • 3 months later...

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