Making wood grain stand out

[tommorichards]

Hello.

At the moment, i am making an explorer type bass, and i was originally planning to paint it a colour, but after seeing it taking shape, im deciding to clearcoat it. Question is, the woods used are yellow pine and sapele, and i was wondering what can i use to bring out the grain.

And heres a picture of it unfinished to help you answer.

[mybass]

[quote name='tommorichards' post='1276090' date='Jun 20 2011, 05:16 PM']Hello.

At the moment, i am making an explorer type bass, and i was originally planning to paint it a colour, but after seeing it taking shape, im deciding to clearcoat it. Question is, the woods used are yellow pine and sapele, and i was wondering what can i use to bring out the grain.

And heres a picture of it unfinished to help you answer.

[/quote]

I use "Tru oil". Basically gunstock oil and purchased from gun shops. (There is a grain 'filler' coat available pre the main coats). Its only about £5 a bottle
so maybe try some on the offcuts first.

[deepbass5]

I thought that a gas torch and set fire to it was the way to go then a rough rub down and use an acid wash on the grain then a thorough rub down followed by a wood stain to the exposed grain then a final rub down re exposing the main body but leaving the darker grain pattern which is now slightly below the surface, untouched.
But don't listen to me as if have never tried it. Ash is the only wood I would attempt this on anyway and your axe looks too nice for this Zebra effect treatment.

But if you mean enhance rather than bring out the grain, then thats a whole different thing. Try Mr J Shuker he is renowned for his finishing.

Edited June 20, 2011 by deepbass5

[yorks5stringer]

You could use a grain filler if the pores on the wood were quite open but unless you go for a contrast colour, as you wipe most of it off anyway you will not see much of it. However as has been previously posted, Jon Shuker does a Satinline Jazz Bass where he wipes in a contrasting dark stain into the wood which accentuates the grain before a final translucent coat. As I'm sure you'd do anyway, try some different things on some offcuts and see how they look.?

Don't know if you've searched under the "Build Diaires" Lounge, someone may have asked this question before?

PS Bass looks v nice!

Edited June 20, 2011 by yorks5stringer

[AttitudeCastle]

I don't know how to help, but that bass looks AWESOME!

[Big_Stu]

I renovated & rifin'd a couple of gunstocks years ago. At the time you could buy borassic acid crystals from a good old fashioned chemist. You dilute them a lot & it's fantastic with wood grain. I dunno if they're still allowed to sell such stuff over the counter but it's well worth an ask.

[xgsjx]

I sanded in about a dozen coats of Danish oil & then a couple of coats of wax on my ash ibby.

[url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/xgsjx/5840432981/"][/url]


[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=134250"]Link to the process.[/url]

[Big_Stu]

Fabulous, I did the same with a beech counter top I made for the kitchen. Looks great but not a good move to have the kettle on it, hot water splashes lift it off again no problem.

[xgsjx]

[quote name='Big_Stu' post='1276235' date='Jun 20 2011, 07:30 PM']Fabulous, I did the same with a beech counter top I made for the kitchen. Looks great but not a good move to have the kettle on it, hot water splashes lift it off again no problem.[/quote]

Note to self: Don't put hot kettle on bass.

[steve-soar]

[quote name='xgsjx' date='Jun 20 2011, 07:02 PM' post='1276216']
I sanded in about a dozen coats of Danish oil & then a couple of coats of wax on my ash ibby.

[url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/xgsjx/5840432981/"][/url]


[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=134250"]Link to the process.[/url]
[/quoteNice.

[Roland Rock]

Just a bit of advice re danish oil. Its purpose is to be absorbed into the surface of the wood, then to cure/harden so that it makes that (extremely thin) surface hard and slightly water resistant. Unless you have a very thirstry wood, anything more than three or four applications will result in the oil no longer being absorbed into the wood, but sitting on top instead like a laquer. This may look nice and shiny, but won't last.

Also, sanding to too fine a grit (say, over 1200) will make it harder for the wood to absorb the oil.

[xgsjx]

[quote name='Roland Rock' post='1276468' date='Jun 20 2011, 10:22 PM']Just a bit of advice re danish oil. Its purpose is to be absorbed into the surface of the wood, then to cure/harden so that it makes that (extremely thin) surface hard and slightly water resistant. Unless you have a very thirstry wood, anything more than three or four applications will result in the oil no longer being absorbed into the wood, but sitting on top instead like a laquer. This may look nice and shiny, but won't last.

Also, sanding to too fine a grit (say, over 1200) will make it harder for the wood to absorb the oil.[/quote]
Good pointers.

I should mention that I started with 40 grit (no oil), then 70, 110, 180 & then finished with 240 & sanded in the oil with 240 (it was a smooth enough finish for my liking).
After each coating I left it for @5-10 mins & then wiped off the excess with a clean cloth & left it to dry for about 4+ hours. I repeated this several times & then left it untouched for just over a week until it didn't smell & let the oil absorb. I then waxed it, left that to dry over night & the following day I gave it another waxing.

I did a lot of googling & read a load of furniture restoration things as well as instrument things. My bass isn't shiny, but more of a satin finish with a dull sheen (almost like a rather dull shellac). If I want it shiny then I'll French polish it. I had toyed with the idea of doing a ceruse finish, but decided not to bother.
Another note, I don't think you can lacquer or paint on oil unless you're using a linseed oil lacquer/paint product.

Have fun with it & rememember, Google is your friend here (& I'm sure many of the BC house luthiers will offer tips if asked)!