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Changing speaker on a cabinet


badboy1984
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never stopped "The Who"...?

Power is based on speaker ability to handle the power (amps x volts) coming in, but as has been said the cab also has an effect due to resonance etc. As with cars the best way to upgrade to more power is to sell your existing rig and buy a more powerful one!

Cheers,
Rich

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It's a bit like changing strings on your bass. Put the same ones on & they sound & perform the same, put different ones on & it might be better, it might be worse. You'd need to look into details of the drivers that you would choose.
If you put in the same spec'd drivers as the originals, but with a higher thermal rating, then you could maybe expect them to sound very similar or even the same.

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Just to expand upon the complexity that Stevie mentioned.

there are several ways in which you can 'blow' a speaker. The wattage is based on the speakers ability to withstand the heating effect of lots of watts, The cab isn't part of this so putting in two 500W speakers would give you a 1000W thermal rating for example.

But speakers also blow because they try and move too far and leave the safety of the magnetic gap and/or bang against the back of the magnet. People talk about Xmax or excursion limits. Since the cab alters and damps the movement of the cone and each speaker is different the cone will move more in the 'wrong' cab than one designed specifically for it and will blow at a much lower power than its rated power.

You wouldn't just drop a different engine with more horsepower into a car and expect the gearbox etc to work properly without modification and sometimes it just wouldn't fit, or be a sensible mod.

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[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1398237739' post='2431844']
Just to expand upon the complexity that Stevie mentioned.

there are several ways in which you can 'blow' a speaker. The wattage is based on the speakers ability to withstand the heating effect of lots of watts, The cab isn't part of this so putting in two 500W speakers would give you a 1000W thermal rating for example.

But speakers also blow because they try and move too far and leave the safety of the magnetic gap and/or bang against the back of the magnet. People talk about Xmax or excursion limits. Since the cab alters and damps the movement of the cone and each speaker is different the cone will move more in the 'wrong' cab than one designed specifically for it and will blow at a much lower power than its rated power.

You wouldn't just drop a different engine with more horsepower into a car and expect the gearbox etc to work properly without modification and sometimes it just wouldn't fit, or be a sensible mod.
[/quote]

For me, this explains why you only change chassis' when you HAVE to...and it is waaay more than just lining up the bolt holes.
If a cab wasn't doing it but worked properly, I'd sell the cab and get a more appropriate one,

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For most people that's true, JTUK, although I'm firmly of the opinion that swapping out an OEM driver for a top quality one is one of the most cost-effective upgrades you can make to your sound. You do need some background knowledge to do it properly though, as some swaps will work and others won't. Also, the cabinet often requires some modification to suit.
You could easily improve on the OEM Eminences inside the TC 212 but you'd probably have to forget about having a coaxial driver.

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Sure, Stevie, I have no doubt you could do it with confidence...and some other guys have done it by taking good advice and
direction from guys on here who 'know', but I should have quantified why most really need to get advice as it isn't as simple
as taking one out and putting another better spec'd driver in without any consideration to the dims and tuning of the host cab.

So, I should have made that clearer.

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