Jono Bolton Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 You may be aware that I recently bought a Peavey Foundation that was in very bad nick that I've been attempting to tidy up. One of the things I bought was a new wiring loom from KiOgon, only I didn't realise that the new pots and switch wouldn't fit in the existing holes in the body. My brother (who's a joiner) was staying with me last week and brought his drill with him and we drilled out the holes for the new pots & switch - 2 minutes, dead easy. However, Peavey UK only went and listed a couple of NOS Foundation bodies on ebay for £20 each, so i cut my losses and picked one up and its way now. I'll still need to widen out the holes on the new body though, don't own a drill myself and my brother is away back up the road. I figured that the easiest way for me to do it myself without the use of a drill is to pick up either a tapered hand reamer or a large tapered file. As long as it goes up to 12mm then I can do all three holes with one tool, I'll just mark off the size of the pot holes on the side so I know where to stop. So what would you recommend - reamer or file? Either can be picked up online relatively cheaply, is one easier to use or more accurate than the other? I've only used a file before, neevr a reamer. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planer Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 For round holes I would use a reamer. I get a nicer finish that way, and for small round holes a reamer is easier to use than a round file, imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6v6 Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 You don't really want the hole to be tapered, so IMO just get a drill - you can get a cheap cordless one and a set of bits for not much money (cheapest cordless drill I can see in Argos is less than £15) I guess you could do it with a file, but it's unlikely you'll get the holes properly round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manton Customs Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) Don't use a file, it'll end up a mess. Use a drill, any kind will do as the existing holes will center the bit and keep it square. Edited October 31, 2014 by Manton Customs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Get a drill. I've got a cordless drill/driver that I have been using for years. It's just a cheapo Challenge one that cost £7.50 new. Even if you have to spend a it more they are incredibly useful things to have knocking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiOgon Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Enlarging existing holes in wood - on a surface you want to preserve not damage is not as easy as it sounds, drills can bite & tear the edges of the holes then you'll have a mess. A lot depends on the grain you've got in the area. The hand held tapered reamers are not meant for wood & can have the same effect. A tapered round file - used carefully with pressure on in cutting direction only - will do the job, a perfectly round hole is the least of your worries, you're not going to see it when the pots are in. The correct drills for wood have a central point with cutting edges around the circumference, these won't work to enlarge holes already there though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manton Customs Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 (edited) They are brad point bits and no, they wont work for this application. Ordinary twist bits will though, depending on the size you are enlarging to and from, I would step up the bits gradually and mask off the holes. The grain is most likely going to be plain and flat sawn so it's not going to be too problematic. A drill is the only real way you'll get perfect results. Regarding the hole not being perfect with a file, for me being in this trade it doesn't matter if I can see it or not, it's not acceptable having an imperfect hole like that but that's obviously up to you: take your time with a drill and get perfect results, or take care with a file and get mediocre results. Though if you aren't bothered about it being perfect have at it with the file . Edited November 1, 2014 by Manton Customs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 As KiOgon says, drilling can be problematic especially if your doing it with a hand drill rather than a drill press. If this is the only method available to you, then I'd recommend going in small increments i.e. if you need to open the hole out 2mm, do it in 1/2mm steps as this will minimise the chance of the drill biting and tearing the surface of the wood. Another alternative is to drill from the back side having first clamped a bit of sacrificial wood to the front of the body. This will again minimise chip out but I'd still go in small steps. The advantage of this approach is that with some careful marking out, you can use a wood drill bit with a centre point. As to allowing a general purpose taper bit drill bit to self-centre in the hole, this will only work with the drill running, and its pretty hard to keep everything still (body, drill, arms etc) as the drill makes its initial contact. I'd only use this method with a drill press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Tap a wine bottle cork in the hole then use a 12mm spade drill bit to recut the hole simples have done this a few times with good results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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