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Routing for an additional pickup with hand tools/Dremel?


timmyo
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Hi there,
I'm seriously considering adding a P pickup to my MM Sub (USA) Sterling.

It looks as though I'd need to flip the P pickup a la Sandberg, but what about the actual routing?
As it will be under the pick guard I don't need it to look perfect - just be big enough and have enough depth to screw it down to the right height.

Has anyone here done something similar?
I really prefer not to have to buy templates or power tools to achieve it as this is likely a one-off exercise.

Anyone hit any thoughts or tips?
Thanks
Tim

P.s. Where might I be able to get someone to cut a Sterling pickguard with this additional pickup cut in it too?

Cheers

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I have done it a few times wit a dremel on my project basses. Much harder than it looks. Draw an accurate template on the body or on masking tape to stop the gloss varnish from splitting. I found that the best idea was to buy the router frame for the demel and do several small 2mm deep routs until you get deep enough. I leave about 2mm all the way round first then finish up to the line by hand.
My best advice is TAKE YOUR TIME and do not rush it. Using the dremel I would allow say 3 hours to do the cavity to a good level.

Similarly with the pickguard, buy a spare or a pickguard blank and cut it yourself using the same technique (although much quicker)

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[quote name='timmyo' timestamp='1418913643' post='2634773']
P.s. Where might I be able to get someone to cut a Sterling pickguard with this additional pickup cut in it too?

Cheers
[/quote]

If you get the pickguard cut first, you can then use it as the router template for the body.

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[quote name='timmyo' timestamp='1418916708' post='2634825']
Thanks folks

As the pickguard will be on show I'm wary of doing that myself - I'd prefer to trust that bit to someone experienced.

I don't mind buying a chisel - would that be simpler than Dremeling do you think?
[/quote]

Safer certainly - a dremel freehand is not for the inexperienced. Even with a precision routing attachment (such as the Stewmac one) you can do a heck of a lot of damage in a very short time. If it is hidden, I would suggest you drill the bulk out (make sure you wrap a piece of Sellotape around the drill as a depth gauge so you don't go too deep) then finish off with a chisel. Hope this helps. Andy

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Try to get them both pretty close in terms of size - the rout should be just large enough for the pick-up to fit, even if it's covered by the pick guard. Best to make things as neat as possible.

Would agree with the comments regarding free-hand Dremel work - it's only something I would use for fine detail. Low power router attachments are not a good tool for removing large amounts of material, they will wear quickly and potentially cause damage to you or your bass. Even with the Stew-Mac type attachment, Dremels do not have the inherent stability of a proper router when sat on the flat surface of a guitar body.

Routers are one of my favourite power tools but they definitely require test pieces, decent kit and an experienced tutor to get you started.

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[quote name='timmyo' timestamp='1418924179' post='2634950']
Thanks again.

I've found someone who will do the plate for me so that's good.

Now I need to think about the whole electrics side of it - how to wire in a P pickup to the (active) Sterling electrics... :-/ ..... ?
[/quote]

shouldn't be a problem, i dont think the MM pickup is active, there's just a pre-amp after the pickups. So you just need some way to switch (or blend) between the pickups. A simple 3 way switch will do it. Then you'll have master vol and EQ.

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