Fitting wall hangers

[Skol303]

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[size=4]I’m about to order a few wall-hangers for tidying up my basses at home. The product I’ll be using is the [url="http://www.herculesstands.com/guitars/gsp38wb.html"]Hercules GSP38WB[/url].[/size][/size][/font]
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[size=4]I’m not a DIY enthusiast… I’m a bungling amateur. So I just wanted to check my proposed method for fitting these hangers with those of you who are more savvy in this department.[/size][/size][/font]
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[size=4]Basically, the wall in question is a standard plasterboard surface with brick behind. The brick wall is in fact a previous outer wall of the property (the room is an extension) and the bricks are super tough.[/size][/size][/font]
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[size=4]My plan is to drill through the plasterboard into the brick and then fit the hangers using masonry screws (rather than using the shorter screws that come supplied with the Hercules hangers). I might even glob in some No More Nails for good measure.[/size][/size][/font]
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[i][size=4]Does this sound sensible?[/size][/i][/size][/font]
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[size=4]I understand that the typical method is to locate the wooden batons behind the plasterboard and fit the hangers to those - but as (bad) luck would have it, the batons in this room are are positioned precisely where I don’t want to hang guitars. Typical.[/size][/size][/font]
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[size=4]As a ‘Plan B’, I’m considering fitting a wooden plank to the wall (again, fixed to the brickwork) and attaching the wall hangers to that instead.[/size][/size][/font]
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[size=4]Cheers for any advice on this.[/size][/size][/font]

[RAY AGAINST THE MACHINE]

There is a gadget I recommend you look into at your local b&q/ homebase etc. you put it onto,the wall that, you propose drilling. This will prevent you from drilling into
wires /cables . I forget the name of it now , but it will prevent any danger and will basically tell you if you should drill,in that part of the wall,or not.

[r16ktx]

I think that as long as the fixings are into brick and not mortar then you'll be OK, as in a couple of the brown rawlplugs would support way more than the 7kg that the hanger does, something in region of 10 to 20 times. Although they do need installing properly...

Just noticed the bit about the plasterboard being on battens. Could you secure a plank across battens and then secure the hangers to the plank in order to get the desired hanging position?

Edited March 23, 2015 by r16ktx

[tauzero]

I use expanding toggles if there's a gap behind plasterboard. There's a handy page at [url="http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infanchor/infanchor.html"]http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infanchor/infanchor.html[/url] which tells you pretty much all you need to know.

[Drax]

Assuming you can get far enough into the brick (2 inches in brick itself) then you won't need an external plank. Definately go larger than the supplied screws.

[lou24d53]

I'm going to be doing exactly the same pretty shortly, using the same Hercules wall brackets which I will be putting up using these - [url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-driva-tp12-panhead-fixings-metal-35mm-pack-of-100/11923"]http://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-driva-tp12-panhead-fixings-metal-35mm-pack-of-100/11923[/url]

I've got two 50" televisions currently fitted to two walls in the house using these, super strong and far easier and quicker than drilling into masonry.

I'm planning on putting 4no. of the Hercules brackets on a section of timber facing about 2m long and fitting it to the wall using these fixings, although I will also catch a couple of fixings into the timber behind for extra strength, but I'd be pretty relaxed just using these.

Edited March 23, 2015 by lou24d53

[Drax]

[quote name='lou24d53' timestamp='1427111227' post='2725794']
I'm going to be doing exactly the same pretty shortly, using the same Hercules wall brackets which I will be putting up using these - [url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-driva-tp12-panhead-fixings-metal-35mm-pack-of-100/11923"]http://www.screwfix....ck-of-100/11923[/url]

I've got two 50" televisions currently fitted to two walls in the house using these, super strong and far easier and quicker than drilling into masonry.
[/quote]

Do these go through into the masonary as well?

[lou24d53]

[quote name='Drax' timestamp='1427111348' post='2725795']


Do these go through into the masonary as well?
[/quote]

No, these are just for fixing to plasterboard.

[Roland Rock]

Yes, you're on the right track - get LONG rawl plugs and matching screws, and as long as you are well into the brick, no batons are necessary.

[Ruiner]

[i][color=#282828][font=Helvetica]"My plan is to drill through the plasterboard into the brick and then fit the hangers using masonry screws (rather than using the shorter screws that come supplied with the Hercules hangers). I might even glob in some No More Nails for good measure."[/font][/color][/i]

[color=#282828][font=Helvetica]I did the exact same thing with the same hangers. Had to make the hole in the wooden base a little bigger for the larger screws and countersunk them also. One thing I did notice was that when the screws were fully tightened, there was a small gap around the edge where the wooden block meets the wall, usually on one side only. Don't know whether this was due to the wall (or wooden base) not being totally flat, but I just smoothed some no more nails around the edges where the block meets the wall just to put my mind at rest. They've been up for around 6 months now and (touch wood) are showing no signs of budging.[/font][/color]

[Count Bassy]

[quote name='r16ktx' timestamp='1427111029' post='2725788']

Just noticed the bit about the plasterboard being on battens. Could you secure a plank across battens and then secure the hangers to the plank in order to get the desired hanging position?
[/quote]

This is what I did screwed a 100 x 18mm batten across a couple of Studs, and then screwed a couple of these very hangers onto that. Works well in the practice room, but you might not like it in a living area.

A word of warning on these hangers. They are brilliant, but make sure that the retaining arms have come down properly. Had an accident where some one had hung a coiled cable on one, which managed to stop the arms moving. Fortunately the bass fell vertically and landed on the strap stud, and no damage was done (other than to my nerves).

[dmccombe7]

Homebase and B&Q sell plastic plasterboard fixings which will expand at the back of the plasterboard when screwed tight.
I used this method with a 2.4m length of hardwood skirting board which had a slight taper on the top 25mm. I have 5 basses hanging from top length and 2 from the lower length in spare room. I used 2off screws at each end and a single screw approx a 1/3 from each end using the plastic wall fixings.
Only did it last week but it all seems pretty sturdy. i used the Hercules metal wall bracket with 3off screw attachment to wood rather than the one with the wooden plaque.
On hindsight i might have used 2 screws one above the other at each screwed point for peace of mind which would give me 8 screws in total holding it up.

The ones from Screwfix i've tried in the past and wasn't too keen on them as i found the plasterboard tends to break up when you screw them into the plaster board but that may have been down to poor technique.

There is another metal type which expands behind the plasterboard but have no experience of these at all. They tend to use this type to fit kitchen cabinets tho.

Dave

[ubit]

I have loads of these in my "music room" but mine are into plasterboard, so different type of fixings, but as said, as long as you go long and bite into the brick, you will be ok. They are incredibly strong and will hold your pride and joy safely without fear of disaster





Edit, there's loads of really good quality plasterboard fixings on the market that are very strong. I used the metal screw in ones. Avoid the plastic ones.

Edited March 23, 2015 by ubit

[SteveK]

[quote name='Skol303' timestamp='1427109472' post='2725766']
[font=Helvetica][size=3][size=4]I’m not a DIY enthusiast… I’m a bungling amateur. [/size][/size][/font]
[/quote]
My advice would be to leave well alone! You may end up with holes in the plasterboard big enough to get your fists in.
Use a pro, or at least get a mate who has a little more DIY experience. It shouldn't take a professional much more than 1/2 hour - and that includes a tea break!
If you really want to do it yourself, remember...USE THE CORRECT TOOLS FOR THE JOB.

[Big_Stu]

[quote name='Skol303' timestamp='1427109472' post='2725766']
[font=Helvetica][size=3][size=4]I’m about to order a few wall-hangers for tidying up my basses at home. The product I’ll be using is the [url="http://www.herculesstands.com/guitars/gsp38wb.html"]Hercules GSP38WB[/url].[/size][/size][/font]

[font=Helvetica][size=3][size=4]I’m not a DIY enthusiast… I’m a bungling amateur. So I just wanted to check my proposed method for fitting these hangers with those of you who are more savvy in this department.[/size][/size][/font]

[font=Helvetica][size=3][size=4]Basically, the wall in question is a standard plasterboard surface with brick behind. The brick wall is in fact a previous outer wall of the property (the room is an extension) and the bricks are super tough.[/size][/size][/font][/quote]

You need a door fixing, length of it depending on how wide the gap is between the bricks (Nori's??) and the plasterboard? They're like a 4-6 inch long rawl-plug. You only need one for each hook, since the lower one is only keeping it straight, the top one is carrying the main load. The screws are big though so you may need to drill out the hole on the hook's base. TBH the hook is only going to be as strong as that wooden base it's on and how well the hook is fitted to that.
I used this method to put a shelf up for a g/f's microwave once. When it was up she asked if I was sure it was strong enough .......... so I picked her up and sat her on the shelf.

edit: IF the bricks are "Nori"s you'll need a damn good power-drill. I tried using a newly bought bottom of the range B&D on one once, after a half inch hole was drilled in about 10 minutes boiling hot grease bubbled from the gear box.

Edited March 23, 2015 by Big_Stu

[MiltyG565]

Don't screw too tight if you're going into the masonry. The pull from the screws could crack your plasterboard. Equally a concern with weight-loading IMO.

[icastle]

Fischers: [url="http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/frame-hammer-fixings/cat840010"]http://www.screwfix....xings/cat840010[/url]

Just drill straight through the plasterboard and into the brickwork, slide the fixing in and do the screw up.

They were the standard for fitting door and window frames and are an absolute b*st*rd to get out.

You could easily hang a man from one of those...

[2 left thumbs]

are there definitely battens behind or is the plasterboard dot and dabbed
personally i would use these [url="http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/frame-hammer-fixings/cat840010"]http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/frame-hammer-fixings/cat840010[/url]
the screw in ones linked above are ok but if the plasterboard gives out which it can
you potentially have broken bass and a big hole in the wall
what steve k said, if your confident you can do it, do it.
if you want to be successful at diy, you need to know when to say no.

[2 left thumbs]

snap

[icastle]

[quote name='2 left thumbs' timestamp='1427164821' post='2726687']
snap
[/quote]

I hope that wasn't the fixing.

[pfretrock]

Snap, really? Those are frame fixings, not suitable at all..
If you can put a decent heavy duty plastic rawlplug into the brick that should be OK. looks like you need a hammer drill. I usually drill out the plaster so the plug is pushed in and is flush with the surface on the brick. You will need to open up the holes in the wood part of the hanger to get decent size screws in, the ones supplies are way too small. Should not need 'no more nails' as you'll only be gluing onto weak plaster. If in doubt, get local help if you can.
My P and Tbird have not fallen off yet (one wall tough brick, other wall 'el cheapo' breeze block!)

[neepheid]

The handrail along my stairs is fixed to plasterboard only with 12 of these because the posts just weren't in any handy place for the brackets:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-intersets-m6-x-52mm-pack-of-20/68410

It's not going anywhere.

[Leonard Smalls]

[quote name='lou24d53' timestamp='1427111227' post='2725794']
I'm going to be doing exactly the same pretty shortly, using the same Hercules wall brackets which I will be putting up using these - [url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-driva-tp12-panhead-fixings-metal-35mm-pack-of-100/11923"]http://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-driva-tp12-panhead-fixings-metal-35mm-pack-of-100/11923[/url]

[/quote]

After many years attaching stuff to plasterboard walls, that's the method I'd use as well; it's very simple and nowhere near as easy to cock up as the expansion fittings.
However, I'd only use these if the board is definitely attached to 50x25mm rather than dabbed on using board adhesive. The screw fittings are as strong as the plaster board and will easily hold 15-20kgs each.
If the board is dabbed on you'll need to drill into the brick. Frame fixings would work for the weights involved...

[gelfin]

Many good suggestions above.

This is my way of being certain that the hanger will be secure with no damage to the plasterboard.

[URL=http://s970.photobucket.com/user/gelfin5959/media/Wall%20hanger_zpsbcycgtfr.jpg.html][IMG]http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae181/gelfin5959/Wall%20hanger_zpsbcycgtfr.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[Skol303]

Cheers everyone! Huge thanks for the useful advice. Basschat at its best.

I now feel much less like a DIY numpty and know what needs to be done. I am a man empowered!

Ta very much.

Paul