Truss rod issue - Spector

[Grangur]

Hi there,

I've just picked up a Spector Performer bass off Gumtree. Not this one, but one just like it.


The body is solid wood and the finish is good.

The problem the bass has is the truss rod has been over tightened. The Guitard-teacher guy I bought it from has striped the TR adjuster so it's just round and no flanges there for a key. The neck is bending back against the strings so there is "negative relief" as you might say.

I've removed the neck from the body and tried ramming a key in the hole and, bending the neck back to a straight line, I've tried getting some movement there, but not a hope. The thing is $u@@erd.

Before I go and get a new neck, is there anything else that anyone here can suggest?

Also, the neck is secured using 5 screws. The flat section of the neck that fits on the bottom of the pocket is 130mm long on this neck. Does anyone here have a neck they can measure and tell me if this is "normal", or is it longer than others.

What I have found is the neck is 60mm wide at the heel. This is rather unfortunate as a Fender one is 63mm. Mind you, at least the body pocket can be routed wider to take a Fender neck; better than too wide, I guess.

Any thoughts?

[Billy Apple]

I suppose a left hand threaded tap plug might be screwed into the hole where the allen key should go. That should loosen it off, although it might be a fiddle to remove the tap. Then that still leaves you with the problem of how to get a purchase in the hole to adjust.

Maybe you could just bodge it by jamming a over-size screw-driver into the hole and giving it a turn

[Grangur]

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1430851975' post='2765273']
....Maybe you could just bodge it by jamming a over-size screw-driver into the hole and giving it a turn
[/quote]

Just tried that. I recon it's welded.

I recon it's time for a new neck.

This is a possible: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261874554714?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Billy Apple]

Before you do that give John Williams at Noise Works in Cov a shout. He's building my TBird and has fixed a few necks in this parish. He also does warranty work for Bass Gear and replaced the nut on my US Spector. I bet he's got some magic and he seems keenly priced.

http://guitarsandbasses.co.uk/

[Grangur]

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1430855170' post='2765335']
Before you do that give John Williams at Noise Works in Cov a shout. He's building my TBird and has fixed a few necks in this parish. He also does warranty work for Bass Gear and replaced the nut on my US Spector. I bet he's got some magic and he seems keenly priced.

[url="http://guitarsandbasses.co.uk/"]http://guitarsandbasses.co.uk/[/url]
[/quote]

Many thanks

[Vinny]

Also, if as it sounds you've reached the 'kill or cure' stage, you can knock a slightly oversized torx bit into the end as it will drive the corners of the hex, not the walls. This is usually a trick just to remove and bin stripped allen heads, though.

[juliusmonk]

Are strings too light gauge? If you like heavier, I'd try that first to see if it gets the neck straight?

[MoonBassAlpha]

Note you have a 24 fret neck, I don't think a lot of fender necks are.

[Grangur]

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1431123629' post='2768127']
Note you have a 24 fret neck, I don't think a lot of fender necks are.
[/quote]

You make a good point. If I were to slice off the finger board at the first fretting I wonder if I would gain any thing? Like being able to take the TR out?

Keeping it in perspective, I paid very little for the bass.

[Grangur]

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1430855170' post='2765335']
Before you do that give John Williams at Noise Works in Cov a shout. He's building my TBird and has fixed a few necks in this parish. He also does warranty work for Bass Gear and replaced the nut on my US Spector. I bet he's got some magic and he seems keenly priced.

http://guitarsandbasses.co.uk/
[/quote]

Or I might just do that too