tedmanzie Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 previously i sanded the gloss laquer to matt on my fender maple neck, i liked it so this time i've sanded further to a bare wood finish. i read that bare necks need sealed but i'm getting mixed reports on what to use. any help appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 [url="http://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=419"]http://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=419[/url] 3-4 coats rubbed on with a clean rag, best neck finish ever! feels like bare wood but protects the wood. Super simple and very quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Anything is probably better than nothing - but I wouldn't use olive oil! I'd go with anything used to finish gunstocks or kinfe handles - here's a fun vid I watched recently that helped visualize some of the properties of a few oil finishes: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDiN9TCZkHk"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDiN9TCZkHk[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifi2112 Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Tru-oil .... I've used it a few times to good effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 thanks the other one i read was Tung oil, any experience with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Linseed oil or Danish oil. These give a good non-sticky finish. I've never used Tru-oil, but doesn't that leave a high gloss finish? I know I saw a vid on using it to get a good shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 +1 for Tru-Oil. It CAN be built up to give a shine with enough layers and elbow grease, but a couple of thin layers wiped on gives a fairly natural feeling finish and the colour change is about like lightly dampening the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJJack Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 +2 on Birchwood Casey Tru oil. I believe it's what Musicman recommend on their website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 thanks, funnily enough i got exactly that Tru oil yesterday so will be applying it this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Good stuff. Let us know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrinkleygit Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 almond oil for me, was recommended by a local ukulele maker, buy it from holland & barratts or health food shops, a little goes a long way, so good the wife uses it to bring up old/antique furniture, mike b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Top tip with tru-oil is to sand wet, using c 1000 grit wet n dry and using the tru-oil rather than water, to create a slurry. Then wipe it off and buff it immediately. When it's dried, repeat a couple of times - you will end with a silky smooth, satin feel neck that is to die for.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1431716360' post='2774366'] Top tip with tru-oil is to sand wet, using c 1000 grit wet n dry and using the tru-oil rather than water, to create a slurry. Then wipe it off and buff it immediately. When it's dried, repeat a couple of times - you will end with a silky smooth, satin feel neck that is to die for.. [/quote] Many thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1431716360' post='2774366'] Top tip with tru-oil is to sand wet, using c 1000 grit wet n dry and using the tru-oil rather than water, to create a slurry. Then wipe it off and buff it immediately. When it's dried, repeat a couple of times - you will end with a silky smooth, satin feel neck that is to die for.. [/quote] Does the wetndry not leave a black residue on the bare wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 [quote name='tedmanzie' timestamp='1431721782' post='2774447'] Does the wetndry not leave a black residue on the bare wood? [/quote] Not if you use the proper stuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveFry Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Below is a maple neck I treated with tru-oil . ( Lower , obviously , - upper is just a work-in-progress lap steel ) I had sanded the Stagg neck back to bare wood , but before I applied the tru-oil I masked off the centre and headstock with tape and treated the edges with a home-made ebonising solution . Recipe ; Take steel wool and wash it in hot soapy water to remove the anti-corrosion coating then put it in a glass jar . Fill jar with white wine vinegar and leave overnight with the lid loose . Apply to wood with paper towels , renewing towels as necessary to avoid contaminating solution in jar . When dry sand again to flatten the raised grain . Note for using tru-oil ; It is possible for rags soaked in tru-oil to self-combust if scrunched up in an enclosed environment ( eg bin ) so unravel them flat on a non-combustible surface to dry before throwing away . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 [quote name='DaveFry' timestamp='1431948564' post='2776424'] Below is a maple neck I treated with tru-oil . ( Lower , obviously , - upper is just a work-in-progress lap steel ) I had sanded the Stagg neck back to bare wood , but before I applied the tru-oil I masked off the centre and headstock with tape and treated the edges with a home-made ebonising solution . Recipe ; Take steel wool and wash it in hot soapy water to remove the anti-corrosion coating then put it in a glass jar . Fill jar with white wine vinegar and leave overnight with the lid loose . Apply to wood with paper towels , renewing towels as necessary to avoid contaminating solution in jar . When dry sand again to flatten the raised grain . Note for using tru-oil ; It is possible for rags soaked in tru-oil to self-combust if scrunched up in an enclosed environment ( eg bin ) so unravel them flat on a non-combustible surface to dry before throwing away . [/quote] interesting thanks. so the additional process is to obtain the colour changed edges on the neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveFry Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Yes , to fake a 3-piece laminate neck . It was just an experiment on a £35 bass that I defretted and coated the fingerboard with superglue . On the front I experimented with pyrography ; ( Lower is a HB f/less ubass ) Because tru-oil is linseed based you can tint it with artists linseed oil paints . I used yellow on the front of the body to make the alder look more like spruce , and red on the back to resemble mahogany . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 interesting! thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Very interesting - using Tru-oil as a stain and a finish . . . that gives me some ideas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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