Buckle rash removal

[sellisnba]

Hi All
Picked up a 2nd hand bass the other day, I usually would have walk away from this one but it plays nice and is well made. Only problem is it has a ridiculous amount of buckle rash on the back. Obviously it's not going to affect the bass much and I didn't pay to much for it.
I was just wondering if there is a way of getting rid of it. (wet sanding maybe)

[url="https://flic.kr/p/tT9ynk"][/url]

[url="https://flic.kr/p/tT9yo2"][/url]

The scratches seem light enough, if I run my finger nail over them I can only just feel them.
Does anyone have any advise on how to remove or at least minimise the scratches?
Thanks in advance

[Grangur]

Have you tried T-Cut the stuff for removing scratches from cars?

Otherwise you could sand it lightly and apply a new coat of lacquer

[sellisnba]

Tried T-cut and scratch remover, didn't do a thing.

[ikay]

This vid shows buckle rash removal using a high speed buffing wheel and a cutting cream (presentation is a bit slow, relevant bit starts about 45 secs in)
[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sX3hDjanjAc"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sX3hDjanjAc[/url]

[BobVbass]

I've used 3200 grit wet and dry then T cut before - works fine so long as the paint blemish isn't too deep and you like rubbing a lot

[Truckstop]

Persist with the T-Cut. It'll take a long time to get it back to being completely flat and 'as new'. You say you can just feel some of them? Nothing will repair that unless you want to go down the re-finishing route.

[RAY AGAINST THE MACHINE]

Put a nice sticker on there instead ?

[Manton Customs]

I'd get a coarser polishing compound and give that a go before resorting to wet sanding. Autosol metal polish may well be worth a go, I've used it lots of times for removing similar scratches.

If you try wet sanding, use no coarser than 600 and progress through the grits to 12/1500. Depending on how deep the scratches are it may be difficult to gauge how perfect you can get it before burning through! Which would be a disaster. You may need to settle for a sort of "as good as you can get" result if you feel you have removed a lot of finish, far better this than going too far.

From the pics it looks like you should be able to get it looking pretty good with Autosol as they aren't too bad. If you go the wet sanding route, once you have sanded up to 1200/1500 then progress onto polishing compounds, no new lacquer would be needed provided you don't b***s it up! Polishing compounds can be used by hand with a soft cloth.

Edited June 18, 2015 by Manton Customs

[Roland Rock]

+1 for autosol. I've been using it today to polish a clear lacquer. Wet n Dry with 600, then 800 then Autosol with a bit of elbow grease and it'll look like a mirror in no time

[sellisnba]

Update,
After spending much of this afternoon trying to fix this I'm getting somewhere.....slowly
I've been gently wet sanding the body with 2500 grit paper. Once it's smooth I have been going at it with T-cut. It's a long process but it's working to a point. I think a buffing wheel for my drill shall be found tomorrow.