Light body polishing

[Twincam]

Does anyone use a light cutting type polish, just for very very faint scratches etc.
All my basses are in very good condition and I'm very easy on my basses too, but a used bass will get some light marks as we all know.
So can anyone recommend something that's not too abrasive but is good for general polishing.

[gary mac]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7r7CHn6Pkg[/media]


I've used a fair bit of this since having it recommended to my by BC'er Grand Wazoo and can confirm it works a treat.

Edited January 6, 2016 by gary mac

[franzbassist]

[url="http://theguitarrepairworkshop.com/virtuoso-polish/"]Virtuoso polish[/url] - expensive but superb. A little goes a long way too.

[blablas]

[url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Brasso-RB0125759-175ml-Metal-Polish/dp/B002G0BULU"]Brasso[/url] gets you the same result for a fraction of the price.

[Grangur]

Chrome cleaner.

[HowieBass]

I've used metal polish and T-Cut scratch remover polish.

[Manton Customs]

Both Autosol metal polish and Meguiars Ultimate Compound work very well. I use both on scratch builds. The Autosol is coarser than the Meguiars. You can go finer than this with a swirl remover, but you might be at it a long time if trying to remove scratches.

It should probably go without saying, but I'll say it anyway....these are abrasives, so will remove the top surface of your finish. Be especially careful around edges where the finish is thinner and you can buff through all too easily if you started with a thin finish! Also lot of earlier (cheaper) guitars actually did not come with a clear coat, so it's best not to buff these guitars. It was quite common back then to simply spray the colour and pronounce it done. No leveling of the finish, no buffing, no clear, just colour coats, so these are very easy to cut through down to the primer or wood.

Having said that a lot of modern Poly finishes are so thick you couldn't buff through them if your life depended on it, making them quite safe to buff.

So basically make sure you assess the finish first before having at it.

Edited January 6, 2016 by Manton Customs

[stevebasshead]

What about something like this in the appropriate colour? I've used it on car paintwork with good results covering light scratches and swirl marks, can't see why it wouldn't work on a bass http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B001FOLMZM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1452114548&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=turtle+wax+colour+magic&dpPl=1&dpID=41pxxKkLfYL&ref=plSrch

[Twincam]

I use autosol all the time when polishing metal and final polish of frets. You sure it's not too course?.

[Twincam]

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1452110191' post='2946590']
Both Autosol metal polish and Meguiars Ultimate Compound work very well. I use both on scratch builds. The Autosol is coarser than the Meguiars. You can go finer than this with a swirl remover, but you might be at it a long time if trying to remove scratches.

It should probably go without saying, but I'll say it anyway....these are abrasives, so will remove the top surface of your finish. Be especially careful around edges where the finish is thinner and you can buff through all too easily if you started with a thin finish! Also lot of earlier (cheaper) guitars actually did not come with a clear coat, so it's best not to buff these guitars. It was quite common back then to simply spray the colour and pronounce it done. No leveling of the finish, no buffing, no clear, just colour coats, so these are very easy to cut through down to the primer or wood.

Having said that a lot of modern Poly finishes are so thick you couldn't buff through them if your life depended on it, making them quite safe to buff.

So basically make sure you assess the finish first before having at it.
[/quote]

It's ok I worked in car body work for years. But of course different paints so wasn't sure what would be best.

[Manton Customs]

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1452128090' post='2946892']
I use autosol all the time when polishing metal and final polish of frets. You sure it's not too course?.
[/quote]

It's coarser than the Meguiars which I also use but not so coarse as to risk anything (if used properly) or so coarse as to leave visible swirls/scratches. It obviously depends on the finish you use it on though.

Below is a job I used it on a while back. A client brought me this PRS guitar which he'd attacked with a pan scourer in an effort to remove a sticker, obviously this wrecked the finish something bad. This was also the worst finish for buffing out....gloss black ! However, under an hour later, plenty of elbow grease and only one product (Autosol) I was done .

Before:
[url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/before.jpg.html"][/url]

Afters:
[url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/after%202.jpg.html"][/url]

[url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/after.jpg.html"][/url]

So, yeah. I'm sure

Edited January 7, 2016 by Manton Customs

[Twincam]

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1452163455' post='2947082']


It's coarser than the Meguiars which I also use but not so coarse as to risk anything (if used properly) or so coarse as to leave visible swirls/scratches. It obviously depends on the finish you use it on though.

Below is a job I used it on a while back. A client brought me this PRS guitar which he'd attacked with a pan scourer in an effort to remove a sticker, obviously this wrecked the finish something bad. This was also the worst finish for buffing out....gloss black ! However, under an hour later, plenty of elbow grease and only one product (Autosol) I was done .

Before:
[url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/before.jpg.html"][/url]

Afters:
[url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/after%202.jpg.html"][/url]

[url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/after.jpg.html"][/url]

So, yeah. I'm sure
[/quote]

Ah excellent. Good job!.

[Chienmortbb]

I am sure all the above are great but I have used Rustins Burnishing Paste on cars, guitars, furniture for 20 years and
found it superb. Whatever you use, will change the surface so I would also do a light polish/burnish all over to avoid "hotspots"

Another old timer trick is toothpaste. It is slightly abrasive and can be used to burnish. I would be ready with the other tricks it toothpaste does it work out. Hell I wi try it on the a rather on my Peavey and reports back.

Edited January 20, 2016 by Chienmortbb

[MoonBassAlpha]

I bought some Dunlop polish yesterday, worked fine cleaning finger marks off a poly covered guitar. Tried it on my old SG ('74). Bloody disaster. The finish has gone cloudy and very satin. Tried some Autosol and that is no better.
Any of the other products mentioned above remedy this issue?
Cheers

[Twincam]

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1453643682' post='2961300']
I bought some Dunlop polish yesterday, worked fine cleaning finger marks off a poly covered guitar. Tried it on my old SG ('74). Bloody disaster. The finish has gone cloudy and very satin. Tried some Autosol and that is no better.
Any of the other products mentioned above remedy this issue?
Cheers
[/quote]

Is this a case of a reaction? If so not great news.

[Manton Customs]

Sorry to hear that. I'm assuming it's a 74 Gibson SG, which means Nitro. So it sounds like a reaction with the Dunlop stuff. There is Silicone in the Dunlop 65, which is not good for Nitro. Can you post pics?

I'm pretty sure I've used Autosol on Nitro before, as well as the Meguiars Ultimate I mentioned earlier. This (Ultimate) is more mild in terms of abrasive so I usually use this on Nitro (nitro is generally softer than Poly).

Edited January 24, 2016 by Manton Customs

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1453653749' post='2961427']
Sorry to hear that. I'm assuming it's a 74 Gibson SG, which means Nitro. So it sounds like a reaction with the Dunlop stuff. There is Silicone in the Dunlop 65, which is not good for Nitro. Can you post pics?

I'm pretty sure I've used Autosol on Nitro before, as well as the Meguiars Ultimate I mentioned earlier. This (Ultimate) is more mild in terms of abrasive so I usually use this on Nitro (nitro is generally softer than Poly).
[/quote]
+1 I've also used Meguiers Ultimate Compound with good results on nitro

Edited January 25, 2016 by Andyjr1515

[MoonBassAlpha]

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1453653749' post='2961427']
Sorry to hear that. I'm assuming it's a 74 Gibson SG, which means Nitro. So it sounds like a reaction with the Dunlop stuff. There is Silicone in the Dunlop 65, which is not good for Nitro. Can you post pics?

I'm pretty sure I've used Autosol on Nitro before, as well as the Meguiars Ultimate I mentioned earlier. This (Ultimate) is more mild in terms of abrasive so I usually use this on Nitro (nitro is generally softer than Poly).
[/quote]
I tried a bit of the Autosol on the back and the reaction wasn't so bad - it removed a scuff but still took some work to polish out. Maybe it is just going over the reacted bit on the front that is not working properly. I wonder if I should try something a little coarser first then go back to the Autosol?

[RhysP]

I know quite a few people that use T-Cut to get rid of small scratches & worming.

[Truckstop]

I just hammer dents and scratches out.

Edited January 25, 2016 by Truckstop

[Grangur]

I think a lot of this depends on what the finish is that you're polishing. I've used T-Cut and Autosol on different basses and got differing results. It's also worth remembering to check out the cloth you use. Some apparently soft "cotton" cloths can leave a load of scratches. I find an old t-shirt or a micro-fibre cloth is best.

[Manton Customs]

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1453713108' post='2961935']
I tried a bit of the Autosol on the back and the reaction wasn't so bad - it removed a scuff but still took some work to polish out. Maybe it is just going over the reacted bit on the front that is not working properly. I wonder if I should try something a little coarser first then go back to the Autosol?
[/quote]

I'd recommend something finer (like Ultimate) rather than coarser. It doesn't sound like the Autosol is having a reaction (it won't) but it's just creating a duller finish by creating fine scratches. So either the finish is softer than usual (for whatever reason, Nitro can vary) or you are putting too much elbow grease into it and creating fine scratches. As Grangur says the cloth or buffer can make a difference too, as well as the technique; you shouldn't use finger tips but make a flat surface with the cloth.

Hope you get it sorted .

[MoonBassAlpha]

Well, a bit of an update. I left it for a while in case the affected area had gone soft or something, but the Autosol still wasn't doing it. This made me think even more that it was the solvent in it causing the problem, as it does smell a bit petrol-like. So I tried something with a fine abrasive but no nasty solvent. So, toothpaste it was!. At first it seemed no better, but a bit of elbow grease brought the shine back. What a relief, and minty fresh too!
I count that as a good save, and free too. Hope this may help someone else in the future.