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Rusted bridge and a seized screw


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I recently picked up a Squier CV Precision that was in mostly good nick but obviously hadn't been cleaned (or even used as the seller said) since it was bought. One of the height screws in has rusted inside the saddle as it sits below the top of the hole. The height is fine as it is so it doesn't need to be adjusted just now but it would be good if it could be tweaked if I need it to be. I tried soaking it in 3-in-1 over the weekend but it hasn't loosened it. Brute force has only resulted in me twisting my Allen key. Are there any other things I can try or is it game over?

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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1464006928' post='3055668']
Penetrating oil, soak for a long while. Only problem is the penetrating oil will cost more than scrounging a s/h bridge saddle :)
[/quote]

Well I guess lots of people have some WD40 or similar in the garage / shed...
But yeah, replacing saddle might work out better. The thread of the saddle also likely corroded/contaminated and in need of a clean out ???

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[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1463996464' post='3055563']
You could also try heating it as the expansion of the metal might help loosen it.
[/quote]

Very much so - I've loosened a few with a soldering iron. Heat it, let it cool - repeat that a few times and add some WD40 to taste.

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[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1464095101' post='3056502']
If you do get it out, I've got a bunch of metric (I assume the CVs would be metric) stainless grub screws you could replace them with.
Got them from work surplus to requirements. They were going to bin them!
[/quote]

Cheers, I'll see if I can get it out first but a few of the screws have seen better days!

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Spray it with plusgas , not wd40. It will penertate and free.
This stuff has saved many a day for me.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201586233435

Or, Flip the saddle over and grip it with molegrips or pliers and wind it right through and out. Bin and replace for around tuppence hapenny :)

Edited by Wonky2
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  • 1 month later...

Well, the screw is still firmly in the saddle. I've soaked it in WD40, I've tried heating it and none of the shops round me have penetrating oil. Brute force hasn't worked as my pliers can't grip the screw well enough and I've stripped the hole in the top of it too. Fender say I've got to buy a whole new bridge and because of the screw spacing on the base plate there are no direct replacements.

Is there anything else I can't try to get it loose?

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[quote name='Jono Bolton' timestamp='1468270660' post='3089795']
Well, the screw is still firmly in the saddle. I've soaked it in WD40, I've tried heating it and none of the shops round me have penetrating oil. Brute force hasn't worked as my pliers can't grip the screw well enough and I've stripped the hole in the top of it too. Fender say I've got to buy a whole new bridge and because of the screw spacing on the base plate there are no direct replacements.

Is there anything else I can't try to get it loose?
[/quote]

Better off buying a new saddle or bridge now tbh

But
Two molegrips will work or one on the thread. One holding the saddle the other on the end of the screw apply pressure in opposite directions.
Then turn it around once out so you can still use it since you stripped the top. Assuming that the procedure has not damaged the thread etc
Then wipe the threads etc with wd40

Or sometimes putting it in a vice and using a very small bit can get them out

Edited by Twincam
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Do not be worried about the screw spacing on the baseplate. Measure the screw hole separation and post here. See what suggestions arise. If the screw spacings are not a direct replacement just remove the old bridge, glue dowels into old screw holes, drill new pilot holes and you are good to go. Wilkinson do some very nice Fender style bridges for about £13 (as do fender).

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  • 3 weeks later...

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