low profile bridge saddles?

[markdavid]

I have a squier bass with the standard fender style bridge,it's a great bass but would be good to get the action a bit lower than the bridge will currently allow,neck relief etc is all ok, a neck shim is a possibility as is filing the current saddles but was wondering does anybody know of some low profile bridge saddles that i could try?

[neepheid]

[quote name='markdavid' timestamp='1465340714' post='3067455']
I have a squier bass with the standard fender style bridge,it's a great bass but would be good to get the action a bit lower than the bridge will currently allow,neck relief etc is all ok, a neck shim is a possibility as is filing the current saddles but was wondering does anybody know of some low profile bridge saddles that i could try?
[/quote]

I haven't heard of such a thing, maybe it's because shimming the neck is way less time consuming and much cheaper to do.

[ikay]

Nothing goes much lower than a standard BBOT. Shimming is the answer

[gary mac]

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1465371595' post='3067550']
Nothing goes much lower than a standard BBOT. Shimming is the answer
[/quote]
Also if the saddle screws are protruding and shredding your hand, maybe purchase some shorter ones or cut down the existing ones.

[JTUK]

Or use Tapered core...?

[Twincam]

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1465411036' post='3068045']
Or use Tapered core...?
[/quote]

This is the easiest way good call.

But if the op doesn't mind removing the neck the putting in a thin bit of card from a business card right in the end of the neck pocket will do it, By a surprising amount although it should not shift the neck angle too much.

Filing the saddles will work but it isn't a proper fix and will look like that guy from eBay we are not allowed to me,toon has "improved" it. Don't do it.
And low profile bridges I don't think there is any than what you have .

[luckydog]

Yes TC and others are right about the neck shim, and a little goes a long way . Best to estimate first what neck angle you need to end up with.

Set the saddle at 'sensible' height and check for how much angle the neck needs packing. Angle pulls out a bit under tension, BTW, that's normal.

Once the neck angle is correct, adjust the saddle height so that notes above the 12th fret just don't buzz.

Adjust truss rod (carefully!) so that notes around 3rd-5th frets don't buzz.

Finally, set the nut height so that open strings don't buzz and the open string action is where you like it - this means filing away at the nut groove and is a one-way trip, so be conservative - the nut height ultimately sets the open string action. Lastly, recheck saddle height by confirming 12th fret + doesn't buzz, adjust as nec.

This what I do anyways, and hope this makes sense and helps !

LD

Edited June 11, 2016 by luckydog

[Twincam]

[quote name='luckydog' timestamp='1465630691' post='3069712']
Yes TC and others are right about the neck shim, and a little goes a long way . Best to estimate first what neck angle you need to end up with.

Set the saddle at 'sensible' height and check for how much angle the neck needs packing. Angle pulls out a bit under tension, BTW, that's normal.

Once the neck angle is correct, adjust the saddle height so that notes above the 12th fret just don't buzz.

Adjust truss rod (carefully!) so that notes around 3rd-5th frets don't buzz.

Finally, set the nut height so that open strings don't buzz and the open string action is where you like it - this means filing away at the nut groove and is a one-way trip, so be conservative - the nut height ultimately sets the open string action. Lastly, recheck saddle height by confirming 12th fret + doesn't buzz, adjust as nec.

This what I do anyways, and hope this makes sense and helps !

LD
[/quote]

This will work but that's not the best way to do it or set up a bass or any guitar. I've written a detailed but ultra easy beginners no special tools needed setup guide if the op is interested. And it uses common household tools etc of a known measurement to get the correct.
Although I recommend spending money on luthiers tools but using tools/objects of known precise measurements can do a very accurate job too.

And nut height should not just be setup where the open strings just don't buzz, as this way you can lower it too much and create a back clanking of strings behind the fretted note where the strings lay on the frets. Granted this is unamped but sounds horrible and feels wrong as the strings slap multiple frets from the nut too fretted note. Easy way to set Nut height is with the string fretted at the third fret, you should have a paper widths gap from the top of the first fret too the string.

[luckydog]

Yes, thanks TC. What I mean about nut height is that it mostly sets 'playing action', and what I do is chose it to suit, but also to avoud buzz/clatter which happens should it be too low (in which case it needs packing or rebuilding/new nut). It's best to be cautious when reducing nut height then. There's a temptation to think that saddle height sets action height, which it does to an extent but moreso at the bridge end of the fretboard and hardly at all at the nut end - whereas nut height mostly affects nut end action where many peeps play much of the time.

However, I am no expert on setting action other than for myself though, so best to use accepted conventional methods and wisdom methinks.

LD