Standard Precision, Classic 50s Opinions

[thegummy]

I'm trying to decide between getting a Classic 50s Precision and leaving it stock or to get a MiM Standard and install a tort pickguard and a Bare Knuckle pickup.

The advantages of the 50s is that it already looks very cool and the stock pickup sounds pretty good. Major disadvantage for me is the heel truss rod adjustment. Never actually experienced one but seems very inconvenient and actually irritates me that they've made it like that.

Something I'm not yet sure about is the vintage frets and 7.5 radius. On a guitar this is a deal breaker for me, mainly because of bends, but I think perhaps on a bass it wouldn't really matter.

Advantage of the Standard is that it's cheaper enough to then get the tort pickguard to make it as cool looking as well as the BK pickup which should be great. Also has the sensible truss rod adjustment.

Anyone want to share their opinion to give me some food for thought to consider?

No need for any "play them both" comments, I obviously will before I buy one

[SubsonicSimpleton]

Heel access doesn't have to be an issue, every instrument I've owned has moved about a bit when subject to big temperature fluctuations, but I've never had to resort to adjusting the truss rod on the gig - if you like a really low action and play lots of gigs with difficult temperature/humidity conditions then it might be a problem, if you like to experiment with different strings regularly then it will be a minor inconvenience that is worth living with if the instrument works well for you.

[LewisK1975]

I have a Roadworn 50's Precision in sunburst and that has the same neck dimensions as the classic 50s. I really like it, it's actually probably my favourite Precision out of all of those I've had.

One other difference you should consider is the nut width - 1.75" on the 50's, 1.625" on the standard. I really like the larger nut width, but it's not for everyone.

For me it depends what you want the bass for, if it's going to be a workhorse and you forsee it being modded over the years, I'd go for the standard.

Regarding the heel truss rod adjustment - A few of my basses have it and you can usually get enough access by removing the pickguard, doesn't usually require taking the neck off. Of course some prefer to remove the neck as it's only 4 screws, whereas removing the pickguard is 10+ screws!

Edited July 13, 2016 by LewisK1975

[chris_b]

If the truss rod adjustment irritates you that much why is this bass on your list in the first pace.

I'd be looking for a good used Am Std P bass.

[thegummy]

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1468400282' post='3090623']
If the truss rod adjustment irritates you that much why is this bass on your list in the first pace.

I'd be looking for a good used Am Std P bass.
[/quote]

I'm not sure how much of an issue the truss rod would be. It's not a deal breaker and other replies suggest it's not so bad. My irritation is more that they've done it purely to be vintage correct when it has no benefits, only cons.

Thanks for the other replies.

One thing I want to know, would the "build quality" be better on the 50s than the standard? I'm not even sure what that means other than frets being level and not sprouting. Maybe to do with the neck fitting perfectly with the body? Wouldn't that be a non issue with cnc machines anyway?

[artisan]

How about a Japanese Tokai Hardpuncher.
I recently bought one from GBBL & it's a cracking bass,I'd say it's the nicest P bass I've had.

[Geek99]

[quote name='SubsonicSimpleton' timestamp='1468396894' post='3090593']
Heel access doesn't have to be an issue, every instrument I've owned has moved about a bit when subject to big temperature fluctuations, but I've never had to resort to adjusting the truss rod on the gig - if you like a really low action and play lots of gigs with difficult temperature/humidity conditions then it might be a problem, if you like to experiment with different strings regularly then it will be a minor inconvenience that is worth living with if the instrument works well for you.
[/quote]
Just chisel a bit out of the body if you need to adjust it more than once, mine has this adjustment and its no biggie

[dannybuoy]

I've had a few US Standards, a Roadworn and a Classic 50s, and the Classic 50s was the best sounding bass of the lot. I only moved it on as the combination of a wide neck, curvy radius and sharp fingerboard edges made it uncomfortable for me to play.

[Geek99]

I played one, it was very nice indeed

[mcnach]

The Classic 50s is quite a step above the standard MIM Precision, so based on that alone I'd be looking at Classic 50s. Of course, you find some standards that are fantastic, so trying them before you buy is the best option, but you knew that so let's move on

I own a Classic 50 (avatar, I replaced the pickguard, I didn't like the cold metal feel). The truss rod adjustment issue is stupid. Why oh why could they not put it in a more sensible place... it's not like it's a 100% perfect replica anyway! But having said that... it's not a big deal. I have a guitar with the same system and it's not as painful as it seems... but more painful than it needs to be, so it annoys me, but if the guitar is worth it I'll put up with it.
My Classic 50 is worth it. I never adjusted the truss rod 'though. I've owned it for 2 years now. I bought it new and it was set up perfectly, and it's never needed adjustment. Perhaps the substantial neck helps with that stability. This neck is wider than a Standard. It's wider than just about any other Precision. It doesn't feel chunky, 'though. I love the Stingray and typical Precision neck more than a Jazz... and this feels very comfortable. I love the extra width. I love the glossy lacquered neck. And it sounds really good stock.

I'd recommend you check one out first purely because of the neck dimensions, if you hear 'chunky neck' and you feel like running away. If you're comfortable with Precisions generally, this one may feel a bit different but not terribly so. It's actually not that chunky, it's wider but not uncomfortably deep.

Between those two, the Classic 50, no doubt.

[Cat Burrito]

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1468444986' post='3091039']The Classic 50s is quite a step above the standard MIM Precision[/quote]

Agreed.

My first bass (lasted over 10yrs as my only player) and my current main bass are both Fender 50s P-basses. They are great. No issue with the truss rod as once it is set up it's done. Very playable and (for me) just perfect.

[thegummy]

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1468444986' post='3091039']
The truss rod adjustment issue is stupid. Why oh why could they not put it in a more sensible place... it's not like it's a 100% perfect replica anyway!
[/quote]

It's even more silly on the Classic Player Strats; it's fine to give them 12" radius necks and jumbo frets that make it play totally differently to a 50s guitar but God forbid it be any more convenient to set up than it was in the 50s!

Thanks for your comments mate.

[Lozz196]

The Classic 50s has a really aggressive punch to it. The neck is wide, not too wide though, and the vintage frets make it very eady to play. Very nice basses. That said the post 2012 MIM Standards are great basses too. My backup is one of these, I`ve had a few of the 2012 MIMs, stupidly sold them all, but - imo - very smartly bought this one back. Very decent basses in their own right, but ideal for any pickup/scratchplate/hardware changes if intending to make a bass exactly as you want. My advice, get to a music shop play each and get whichever your hands like the best, whichever you choose you`ll have got yourself a very decent bass.

[thegummy]

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1468447501' post='3091063']
The Classic 50s has a really aggressive punch to it. The neck is wide, not too wide though, and the vintage frets make it very eady to play. Very nice basses. That said the post 2012 MIM Standards are great basses too. My backup is one of these, I`ve had a few of the 2012 MIMs, stupidly sold them all, but - imo - very smartly bought this one back. Very decent basses in their own right, but ideal for any pickup/scratchplate/hardware changes if intending to make a bass exactly as you want. My advice, get to a music shop play each and get whichever your hands like the best, whichever you choose you`ll have got yourself a very decent bass.
[/quote]

Would you say that, ignoring pickups, it's really down to the preference of the neck shape and frets rather than one being superior to the other in any objective way?

[Lozz196]

That would be it for me really, the Classic does have a great feel to it and at the time I had one - 2009 - felt of much better quality than a standard MIM, but the post 2012 MIMs have really upped their game, so for me it is the difference of the neck width, and however much that extra mass affects the sound. To me it makes them have an aggressive bite that isn`t there on the MIMs.

[Marc S]

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1468397530' post='3090599']
I have a Roadworn 50's Precision in sunburst and that has the same neck dimensions as the classic 50s. I really like it, it's actually probably my favourite Precision out of all of those I've had........

Regarding the heel truss rod adjustment - A few of my basses have it and you can usually get enough access by removing the pickguard, doesn't usually require taking the neck off.......
[/quote]

I'll second Lewis's comments here. I bought a RW Precision from this very forum, and it's my favourite bass I've ever played
Though I'm not 100% sold on the pickup - it's just a tad less grunt than my Squier Classic Vibe, which I've put an Entwistle PBXN pup into. (Check out Entwistle pickups - they're cheap + great!)

Certainly from a comfort, lightweight & playability point of view, my RW P is brilliant
It has, like my Roadworn Jazz (yes, I have both and they're both my favourite ever basses of each model) the neck adjustment at the heel. I have to say, I too thought this might be an issue - but it really hasn't been

Both necks are really stable. I adjusted the J neck once, and it could do with a tweak again now
With a little bit of the scratchplate filed away, I don't need to take the neck off. The P bass I've not needed to adjust....

I know you said you didn't want any "play them both first" type responses
But do just that, and go for the one your gut instinct tells you to
Truss-rod adjusting isn't normally something you'll be doing every week

Good luck

Edited July 14, 2016 by Marc S

[discreet]

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1468397530' post='3090599']
I have a Roadworn 50's Precision in sunburst and that has the same neck dimensions as the classic 50s. I really like it, it's actually probably my favourite Precision out of all of those I've had.
[/quote][quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1468488635' post='3091227']
I'll second Lewis's comments here. I bought a RW Precision from this very forum, and it's my favourite bass I've ever played.
[/quote]

I too bought a Road Worn P and predictably, it's the best Precision I've had in forty years of owning Precisions. Silly money for what you get (especially second-hand). It plays superbly and genuinely has that vintage P low-mid thump with that little bit of high-mid snap. The necks are fantastic on these, best you will see anywhere other than on a pre-CBS.

Don't get hung-up about the heel-end truss rod adjustment, it's [i]really [/i]not an issue. You are unlikely to see a classic one-piece maple P neck with skunk stripe, walnut cavity plug, 7.25" radius and 1.75" nut width that has the truss rod adjuster anywhere else but the heel-end, so get over it! Any perceived inconvenience is negligible compared with how good these necks are.

Edited July 14, 2016 by discreet

[thegummy]

Just had a play of both. At first the 50s was weird how the middle strings were higher than the outer but it was actually nice to play, felt different to what I expected. Glossy neck maybe felt a tad sticky.

Then tried the standard and was surprised that the neck was less comfortable. Still decent but I actually preferred the 50s.

[Geek99]

Higher due to the board radius - I couldn't stop playing it and I really doubt you need to change the pup.

[discreet]

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1469197115' post='3096548']
Higher due to the board radius - I couldn't stop playing it and I really doubt you need to change the pup.
[/quote]

I'm totally sold on 7.25" radius boards now. I find the curve more natural and easier to play. Anything else seems way too flat and unwieldy. Which may be a problem as my Road Worn is the only bass I have with a 7.25" board... maybe it's finally time to get back to having only one bass (gasp).

[Geek99]

Out! Flipping heathens coming in here with their "one is enough" nonsense

Edited July 22, 2016 by Geek99

[discreet]

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1469197999' post='3096565']
Out!
[/quote]

Ha! It's not too likely though, is it??

[thegummy]

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1469197115' post='3096548']
Higher due to the board radius - I couldn't stop playing it and I really doubt you need to change the pup.
[/quote]

Yeah I'd only change the pup on the Standard, I'd keep the 50s stock. Anyone know if the 50s ones are ceramic or Alnico?

Think I could get used to the radius. Would be a stark contrast to the 16" fretboard on my J.

[Geek99]

Alnico think
I had one in my bass doc precision and it sounded immense

[mcnach]

[quote name='thegummy' timestamp='1469198090' post='3096567']
Yeah I'd only change the pup on the Standard, I'd keep the 50s stock. Anyone know if the 50s ones are ceramic or Alnico?

Think I could get used to the radius. Would be a stark contrast to the 16" fretboard on my J.
[/quote]

Classic 50s are alnico.

I quite like the pickup in mine.