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Gauging string gauges and other acoustic bass problems...


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Hello everyone!

I've recently acquired my first electro-acoustic bass, a lovely Takamine EG512. It's in mint condish although the guy who sold it to me, though having kept it pristine, never really played it, and the strings are old and scuzzy. The action is also way off the mark higher up the neck, but I'll mostly be using this for acousticy-folk stuff, just doing typical lower end basslines, so I'm not too fussed.

I'm eager to change the strings but have no idea what gauge is on there, so I was just going to slap on some 105's which I use on my electric, will this be okay do you think? I know it's a broad question but I've zero experience with acoustic.

Additionally, what are my options for getting the action set right? If I was ever reluctant to adjust the truss rod on my electrics, this is another level that I don't want to risk the bass for, is it something a standard guitar repair guy may be able to fix?

Many thanks,
H.

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My acoustic came with rounds on it. I tried the "made for acoustic " bronze strings but found them far too noisy and scratchy. Have had a set of old tape wounds on happily now for several years.
I can't help with the action though.

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Don't be afraid of adjusting the trus rod. Plenty of vids on Youtube to tell you what to do. Also have a look across the flat of the face of the bass. If there is a rise around the bridge area you might have problems. That's a luthier job to sort and might be expensive. If it's flat then maybe just a tweak of the trus rod might work.

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Regarding strings, I've found the best ones for my Washburn AB20 are Elites bronze,
which I think are 40-60-80-100 gauges. Seem to last a good while, and stay a bit zingy
too if that's what you want.
Fender bronzewounds are okay too, similar gauges I think but for me go off a bit sooner.
Cheaper than the Elites though, so you pays yer money etc.

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[quote name='casapete' timestamp='1493856686' post='3291393']
Regarding strings, I've found the best ones for my Washburn AB20 are Elites bronze,
which I think are 40-60-80-100 gauges. Seem to last a good while, and stay a bit zingy
too if that's what you want.
Fender bronzewounds are okay too, similar gauges I think but for me go off a bit sooner.
Cheaper than the Elites though, so you pays yer money etc.
[/quote]

Yeah, I'd not want to go above 100s on an acoustic bass, just in case. Personal thing but you can't be too careful...

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i use the Fender bronze strings in just that gauge and they are fine.

Regarding your action, you have to file down the saddle's base to lower the action and its a total pain. You may wish to consider one of these adjustable guitar saddles to get the action right, then you can measure its height and apply that to your own solid saddle. If the adjustable saddle is too wide, you could move the screws, or chop it into two, shorten the parts and glue together. Worth checking neck relief first though.

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Edited by Geek99
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I had a eg512 the higher end one with better woods and electrics. Forgot the exact model name. Was a nice instrument if a little bulky.

The necks are good and the truss rods will support any reasonable string gauge. But you will have to adjust the truss rod. Often even if you fit the same strings.
An easy way only using a paper business card and a set of Allen keys. Is to fit the new strings tune to pitch then fret the E at the first fret and hold the last few frets down with your elbow. Then while still holding the string down use a paper business card to check the relief in between the gap between 7th fret and the E string. A standard paper business card is .013 so its a good relief for an acoustic. You want It to just slide between fret and string without to much drag or lifting the string. It can be fiddly but not difficult.
If there's too much gap then tighten (clockwise) the truss rod and vice versa. For an acoustic any relief of between .007 and .015 is ok. As said a standard paper business card (not plastic bank card etc) is in the right ballpark.

Next check the string height at the 17th fret (with the strings in tune). This can be done with Allen keys slide in between fret and string. What height is a personal thing but in general acoustics are set a bit higher than standard but no more than 3mm - 2.5mm e to g in my opinion. I would go a bit lower. You may have to shave down the bridge saddle which is not hard but maybe best left to someone more in the know.
My takamine bridge was spot on and I only needed to adjust the truss rod to get the action as I wanted. I also leveled the frets on mine but as I recall they weren't bad in the first place.

If your in the north east I will happily set it up for you for free, as I'm nice (with proper tools haha).

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