Busted a screw

[anzoid]

Putting new tuners on my somewhat beaten up fretless Fender neck. I (stupidly) didn't drill a pilot hole for one screw (for the other three the holes already lined up). Anyway, screw was about 80% in when the head snapped off. Any advice on how to get the rest of the screw out? Is it even possible with such a small screw? I'm not too worried about the security of the tuner - seen plenty of basses where screws are missing from a tuner - but would like to make things tidy again if possible.

[HowieBass]

There are special drill bits that remove a plug of wood (somewhat like an apple corer) - you could get the broken screw out that way, then replace the missing wood with a dowel before drilling a pilot hole for the new screw... or as you say, save yourself the bother and just leave it.

[paul h]

Needle nose pliers and lots of patience

[Grangur]

When you remove the tuning head, is there anything of the screw for you to get hold of?

If yes - [quote name='paul h' timestamp='1495878511' post='3307225']
Needle nose pliers and lots of patience
[/quote]
If no - get a sharp, metal drill-bit in a column drill to drill it out. It may be best to get a luthier to do this.

[anzoid]

Thanks HowieBass, a quick Google search based on your comment turned up hollow screw extractors - smallest I can find is 1/4" - which, measuring on the headstock, is going to leave a larger hole than I'd like. I did see a suggestion of using panel pins to bang in a series of small holes around the broken screw to loosen it - not sure that would be much better, and harder to fill the damage I suppose. Not sure wood filler would give a good base to re-drill the hole, but would allow me to put in a dummy screwhead for "the look"...

[anzoid]

And thanks for all the other comments whilst I was typing my last reply. If I clear a little space around the broken screw needle nose pliers might indeed do the job. Just not sure I've got the patience (see: didn't drill a pilot hole in the first place )

[Trueno]

Don't know where I heard this and don't know how well it works. Heat the screw up... best way is by applying a soldering iron. Screw expands and the hole expands with it. Screw cools down and shrinks, hole stays the same size. Might just give you a tiny bit of wiggle room when you get the pliers on it.

[anzoid]

Trueno, sounds like an interesting idea.

Anyone know if plug cutters like these (the 6mm one) might do the job? http://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/Shop/p~133413~Plug-Cutter-Set-4pce.html

[Norris]

Plug cutters are not the easiest things to use. I'd try everything to avoid removing wood first. Heat and pliers on the screw stub first. Try to cut a slot and use a flat bladed screwdriver. Failing that carefully saw a flat surface then use a centrepunch and drill the screw out

[dyerseve]

The title of this thread makes me wonder what some one will post if they happen to break a nut... 😉

[Andyjr1515]

As Trueno says, use a soldering iron and hold it on the stub until it's decently hot. It will expand with the heat and largen the hole slightly. Then let it fully cool. The screw will now be smaller the the hole. Grab the stub with some small needle nosed pliers and it should screw out fairly easily. This is the standard guitar and bass tech's method.

If that fails, if it was mine I would leave it be. I certainly wouldn't use a screw extractor - much too much damage to the wood itself.

Edited May 31, 2017 by Andyjr1515

[GregBass]

How about a tiny screwdriver. Superglue it to the top of the screw, then when it's set just unscrew.

[Pete1967]

+1 for the heating method, but I've never had huge success with it. I've handled broken screws on a number of occasions and if there's a stump left I use a small pair of 'mole' grips. Clamp them tightly on the stump of the screw (it's fine to deform it a bit but not too much) and then you can just unwind the screw. Lay the bass down on it's front, secure it and turn the grip with both hands otherwise you'll twist it and pull it off the stump. When you've got a wholeish wind out, release the grip and reclamp on the new length of stub and then you should be able to wind all the way out.

If the screw has broken off flush with the wood then drilling it out is really your only option, but it's tricky.

[Donnyboy]

Interesting reading this - I've done the same thing trying to put on new machine heads. Even with 2 of the 4 screws broken the plate seems pretty stable. I think Ill just leave alone although it does look a bit sh*tty.

[alyctes]

I have successfully drilled [u]very small[/u] holes around the offending screw, removed it, drilled out the hole and dowelled it. Once.
I wouldn't recommend it without a column drill. And lots of care and patience.

[Phil Starr]

If the screw has a stub clear of the surface you can probably get it out, but you may only get one chance, it smapped because it's a thin screw and it's in tight, there's a chance it you exert too much force it will snap again where you can't reach it. You have to avoid any bending forces on the screw, hold your pliers nice and straight. Heat works but use much more of it than you think, get it as hot as you can, you need to get it hot right to the tip, not just warm, all the way down inside where the timber will cool it.

Before you do this think about how you will grip the screw, if the pliers won't grip and you turn then this will polish the stub making it harder to get a grip as you make repeated attempts. If possible I try and use a file to make some flats to grip. On large screws I've managed to get enough to use a spanner but this won't be big enough for that. When filing use some sellotape to protect the wood from the file.

Good luck.