fleabag Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Peeps I'm having to make templates for pickup and rear cavity routs, and i decided i want perspex. Trouble is, my memory of cutting perspex a few years ago resulted in it sort of melting back together behind the cut. I was using a jigasw and fine blade. Is there better way to get a clean cut - maybe something like a sharp stanley knife and making lots of cuts over and over again or is this likely to take days ? 5mm Perspex / acrylic is not cheap to practice on so i need to do it once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Speak to Bertbass - he manufactures headstock shaped lighting systems - very cool - from acrylic. I think he uses a waterjet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Go slow, put tape back and front to stop splintering, use a very sharp blade, go slow, use cutting fluid and did I mention to go slow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Oh hell. I read too slow and it chips, too fast and it melts. I'm thinking Bertbass already - cheers Mick The perspex is on its way so i wonder if i can send that bit of sheet to bertie with some measurements ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 [quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1497215541' post='3316643'] Oh hell. I read too slow and it chips, too fast and it melts. I'm thinking Bertbass already - cheers Mick The perspex is on its way so i wonder if i can send that bit of sheet to bertie with some measurements ?? [/quote] You want high blade speed but slow progress. You also need the finest teeth you can get. A metal cutting blade is the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Thanks T - though i;m still thinking bertiebass. I seem to be somewhat hamfisted with delicate work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt P Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 another option (that i use for smaller cuts) is a manual coping saw, it takes time but less likely to get melting or splintering, masking tape both sides is always a good idea, leave the protective plastic on as well. for finishing the edges was taught to start with a fine file, then go through the grades of wet+dry paper (used wet) up to about 1500 grit, then brasso for a final polish, you can get it super smooth and transparent this way. we made keyrings using this method at school, then i used the same method for the perspex top of a hifi stand i made as my GCSE project (far too long ago!) Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Or you could just use a MAP gas gun to flame polish the edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 [quote name='Matt P' timestamp='1497267040' post='3316860'] another option (that i use for smaller cuts) is a manual coping saw, it takes time but less likely to get melting or splintering, masking tape both sides is always a good idea, leave the protective plastic on as well. for finishing the edges was taught to start with a fine file, then go through the grades of wet+dry paper (used wet) up to about 1500 grit, then brasso for a final polish, you can get it super smooth and transparent this way. we made keyrings using this method at school, then i used the same method for the perspex top of a hifi stand i made as my GCSE project (far too long ago!) Matt [/quote] template, Do the insides of the pickup rout template need polishing ? Sounds very finicky for just a template, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 [quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1497268951' post='3316886'] Or you could just use a MAP gas gun to flame polish the edges. [/quote] Over my head bert What's a map gun ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Same as a blow torch / propane torch but burns hotter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Ah ! Well, dont let me near one then, because chances are, i'd melt the thing into a pool of liquid. Delicate is not my middle name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 You could then enter your pool of liquid acrylic for the Turner prize. You stand a good chance of winning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 (edited) Well if Damien Hurst can sell utter sheeite, why not i say Edited June 12, 2017 by fleabag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Personally, to do a pickup route I'd use 6mm mdf for the template and a router with a guide bush. You can practice on scrap wood and fine tune sand the template until it's spot on. Perspex/acrylic is usually better cut by machine - water jet or laser. For that you would need it on the computer. Then you'd probably use the acrylic as a master template to cut "disposable" ones out of mdf to use for the actual routing. If you are going to make your own just go steady, take your time and be prepared for a lot of sanding. I wouldn't bother polishing the edges - your router bearing would probably do that as it goes along Do practice on scrap though, and be prepared to bin it and start again if it's not right the first time. Careful preparation is the key to a neat job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt P Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 [quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1497269825' post='3316894'] template, Do the insides of the pickup rout template need polishing ? Sounds very finicky for just a template, Matt [/quote] not for a template, i was just adding that as additional info in case someone else searches for perspex cutting info, personally i'd go as far as the fine file as i'm never that accurate with cutting so usually get the last little bit with a file to give an accurate neat edge. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 (edited) Laser cutting, mdf / ply or acrylic, gives the best finish of all without sanding and it's the right size. Edited June 12, 2017 by bertbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 I've yet to ask anyone which type of router bits to use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 If you search ebay for a template router bit you'll soon find what you'll need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 (edited) I've already got bits here Terry, so i just need to google ' template router bit ' Seems to me you either need a bit with a movable bearing that followes the template, ( and obviously you move the bearing up the shaft as you need to go deeper - hope thats right ? ) or one that has a shaft the same size as the cutting flutes, so the shaft can butt up against the template I could be wrong , of course Edited June 12, 2017 by fleabag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Correct. O[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]ne that has a shaft the same size as the cutting flutes, so the shaft can butt up against the template.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Start off routing in the centre of the template without touching it then when the cutting flutes are below the template run the shaft against the template.[/font][/color] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Good tip terry - cheers I've also read that its worth taking out the main bulk of the routs with forstner bits first. This makes sense to me, and lo and behold i have a set of forstnet bits Does that seem sensible ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Watch this space Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 If you're using a top bearing template follower bit you might need to put some packing under the template. Pickups are usually a fairly shallow route, so a short bit is handy. However it you use a guide bush on your router you can use a standard straight bit. I find it's easier to get a neat result, albeit with the added complications of calculating and drawing the offset. I have a coin with a hole of the correct size drilled through the middle, which leaves the offset distance. Then I can use it a bit like a spirograph wheel to draw the cut line including the offset Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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