MarkG3 Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 So I replaced my 20 fret neck with a 24 fret neck (I'm thinking this is why) and from measurements it seemed to be all matched up. Now it's on, every string at the 12th fret is 1 note flat. So E becomes Eb, A is Ab, D is Db and G is Gb. The tuning starts going off around fret 7. Have I messed up the scale length by getting a fretboard with more frets? Ive moved the saddles as far to the nut as I can which didnt do anything and also tried moving them further away to see if that changed anything which neither did. Tried adjusting the truss rod and also the height of the strings but this too didn't have any effect. Thanks! Help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 Ok so measured the necks and the original one is 5cm shorter. No idea how I managed to get the same measurement then. Is there a way to fix this or is it a lot of work to fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morgano Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 It sounds like the new neck has a different scale length. You can check by measuring from the nut to the 12th fret on both necks. The measurement should be as close as possible. The bridge saddle adjustment may allow for some leeway if there is a difference, but not if it is more than a few mm's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morgano Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 You would need to move the bridge away from the nut to compensate, so probably a lot of work, and may not work aesthetically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 (edited) Thanks. Just measured from the fretboard side of the nut to the start of the 12th fret and there is 1mm difference. 2mm if I measure to the bridge side of the 12th fret Edited August 31, 2017 by MarkG3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morgano Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 It might be that even though the scale lengths are similar, due to differences in how the neck mounts in the neck pocket, the 12th fret ends up in a different position with the new neck once it is mounted on the bass. When the necks are mounted in the body how different is the measurement between the 12th fret and the G saddle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrenochrome Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 It sounds like thje new neck has a similar scale length but is sat too far away from the bridge due to extra high frets. You may have to move the bridge towards the neck to compensate but then the pups, pickguard etc would be all nearer the bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigwan Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Just to be clear, are the "extra" frets on this new neck on an overhang over the body? If not you've inadvertently changed the scale length of the bass and the frets are in entirely the wrong positions with relation to that. I'd stick the old neck back on and mark this one down as a learning experience as the measures needed to correct the issue are cut the neck pocket deeper into the body (UGLY!) or move the bridge (UGLY!)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 Old neck is 44cm and the new one is 48.8cm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 (edited) The new neck the frets dont hang over the scratchplate, theres a 1.1cm space between the last fret to the end of the neck that does Edited August 31, 2017 by MarkG3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 (edited) So does that mean the bridge would need to move 4.4cm closer to the neck? Which obviously is quite a lot This is my tester bass to do all these kinda things to it so it isn't one that means loads to me like my G3 Edited August 31, 2017 by MarkG3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigwan Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 [quote name='MarkG3' timestamp='1504168133' post='3363055'] So does that mean the bridge would need to move 4.4cm closer to the neck? Which obviously is quite a lot This is my tester bass to do all these kinda things to it so it isn't one that means loads to me like my G3 [/quote] Measure nut to 12th fret. That should (I think) be the distance from the 12th fret to center of intonation adjustment range on the bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 The key thing is the scale lengths of both necks (compare nut to 12th fret distance) and which fret is the point where the neck joins the body. Possible solutions are to either move the bridge or to extend the neck pocket so that the neck sits further into the body. The final distance from the 12th fret to your bridge needs to be the same (actually slightly longer) than the 12th fret to nut distance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost_Bass Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Try this: Put the old neck in the bass, aply a bit of masking tape either side of the 12th fret on the body of the bass, trace a line where the 12th fret is. Swap the neck for the new one and measure the diference from the "new" 12th fret and the line you've traced, this should tell you (ballpark) how much the neck has to move and to wich side in order to intonate correctly with the position of the bridge. You can then decide what to do, either move the bridge or shave a bit of the neck heel if it has room for it without messing up the truss. The most important thing, take pictures and post here for us to see what's happening and advise you with more info. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Rather than moving the bridge towards the nut, how about just getting longer screws for the saddles and a little strip of metal for them to sit on? Oh, and longer springs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 Thanks. So I've managed to have a look at this and I've measured from the nut on both necks to where they both first come into contact with the body. The old neck is 51.5cm, which is roughly half way on fret 16. The new neck is 56.5cm until it reaches the body, which is pretty much on the 18th fret wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 I might have to give up on this. If I move the bridge, it'll be in my way of playing, if I move the neck the screws to hold them will be going into the back on the thinner part of the neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 [quote name='MarkG3' timestamp='1505145885' post='3369797'] I might have to give up on this. If I move the bridge, it'll be in my way of playing, if I move the neck the screws to hold them will be going into the back on the thinner part of the neck [/quote] I think you are probably right. All options are likely to lead you down to quite a bit of skilled work and compromises which, from the sound of it, isn't really where you really want to be. Those options, from what I understand to be the problem, are going to be: - moving the bridge back. Issues can be practical in terms of how far back the bridge can go or aesthetic in terms of finish or fixings, or playability in terms of bridge position to playing position - or modding the neck or pocket so that the nut to saddle length is the same as the original. This is not something for the inexperienced to tackle lightly, and may compromise the fixings of the neck or the match up of the neck heel. It would be safer to sell the new neck and rethink what it is you want to do with the bass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost_Bass Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 You can allways have a new neck made to fit or even have your old neck in a luthier to replace the fretboard with another with extention for the 24 frets. Will be easier than modding the current new neck or body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prowla Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 The 12th fret should be at mid-point between the nut and the bridge saddles. The easiest way to check this without a ruler is to see where the (12th fret) harmonic lies; it should be exactly over the 12th fret and exactly the same pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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