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Truss Rod Frightmare!! HEEELP


SIXARMSOFCHAOS
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Dual truss rods! eeek! Myself, I wouldn't go near those with a bargepole TBH, and I've always set up my own basses. it's a completely different kettle of fish to a single trussrod, you could end up twisting the neck, especially since you don't know where it need to be adjusted to. Proceed with caution.

I know what you mean about music shops in SA, the staff can't tell their arse from their elbow. Pay for a setup and it comes out worse than it started :) The only guy I ever met who knew what he was doing was from a shop in jo'burg on Jan Smuts ave, I think it's called the Guitar Centre? Anyway I think that'd be rather a long trip for you...
Don't know what else to tell you. My dad knows a guy who builds guitars, I'll see if I can get his number for you but I'm not sure where he's based either.

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Find an allen key that fits this, apply it to the head that is loose, (and if you do have two truss rods, then just try the one that is ok to get a feel for it). Now try the loose one, attempt to align the head level and on the same plane as the truss rod is lying inside the neck, slowly turn the allen key in the head until you feel the thread being taken up, not forcing it but it should "grab" the thread and wind on easily.
Maybe you know someone who is competent with metal work who could figure it out if you aren't confident. For instance, I once visited my local hardware store that had a full machine workshop and a chap there helped me out with some metal parts for basses. Just DON'T force anything, I did once bend the end of a "quality"(?!!) trussrod.




[quote name='SIXARMSOFCHAOS' post='71115' date='Oct 8 2007, 04:37 PM']Hi there Bassists.

Yesterday I was playing and suddenly I saw that one of my trussrods had slipped out!?
WTF! I've never seen this happen. My action is still ok and I haven't picked up any warping on the neck. Should I just screw it back in?[/quote]

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Only get a workshop that really knows what they are doing here not someone that thinks as it looks like a major bit of tech investigation/diagnosis and first aid is required.

To save sending the whole bass, take the neck off and send it to a quality workshop - me I'm biased, it would have to go to Martin Sims at the SimS Custom Shop.

www.simscustom.com - drop him an email or call him next Monday.

Snding the neck well bubble-wrapped and boxed via Royal Mail Special Delivery is the most cost effective secure way of shipping it to him or to anyone else like Martin.

Hope this helps!

Ian

Edited by SMART
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[quote name='SMART' post='73901' date='Oct 13 2007, 06:35 PM']Only get a workshop that really knows what they are doing here not someone that thinks as it looks like a major bit of tech investigation/diagnosis and first aid is required.

To save sending the whole bass, take the neck off and send it to a quality workshop - me I'm biased, it would have to go to Martin Sims at the SimS Custom Shop.

www.simscustom.com - drop him an email or call him next Monday.

Snding the neck well bubble-wrapped and boxed via Royal Mail Special Delivery is the most cost effective secure way of shipping it to him or to anyone else like Martin.

Hope this helps!

Ian[/quote]

South Africa to SIMS via Royal Mail may be expensive and risky :)

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[quote name='warwickhunt' post='73904' date='Oct 13 2007, 06:48 PM']South Africa to SIMS via Royal Mail may be expensive and risky :)[/quote]

Oops! Did not realise the geographical location of the neck in question so yes that could although be true when put in it's true cost context (verus the value of the instrument both real and intrinsic) if there is no other workshop available, sending a neck is not a real cost issue, really. It's certainly the most convenient and cost effective way of shipping when its just the neck in question due to the overall volume of the consignment as well as its weight.

That's how SimS often retro-fit their world famous LED system: the neck is sent over, the LEDs installed, at the base of the neck are a positive and negative cable that any competent luthier can then connect to a 9V (PP3 Duracell) power source in the body (usually fits somewhere in the control cavity) and the personal chose of whatever swicth gear the owner prefers ie a simple flick switch on the front of the body or pus-push or push-pull conversion of one of the tone/volume controls (helps keep the original look of the instrument that way).

Just some thoughts...

Ian

Edited by SMART
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