DolganoFF Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 Why couldn't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 [quote name='DolganoFF' timestamp='1406319900' post='2510653'] Why couldn't you? [/quote] Sorry, I should have said that all the switching is on the negative side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DolganoFF Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 You still have three wires coming to "color" pins, just put three resistors there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 [quote name='DolganoFF' timestamp='1406320598' post='2510669'] You still have three wires coming to "color" pins, just put three resistors there. [/quote] Yeah, I'm not sure why I thought the switch thing made a difference. The colour pins are connected to the negative side, though, it's a bit late for resistors then. Are you thinking of a common cathode? Or am I doing that stupid thing I do when I am saying something very wrong but can't, for the life of me, see it? Admittedly my head is rather addled of late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 Using a single resistor won't work correctly (I have a feeling I may have suggested it earlier but I hadn't thoguht it through). As you go from one to two lit elements, you're doubling the current through the resistor while putting two LEDs in parallel, thus halving their resistance, and it's far too late for me to work out exactly what'll happen but essentially you'll be reducing the voltage across the LEDs. So if the red LED has a lower threshold than the blue LED and the voltage drops to just below the threshold voltage, you'll just see the red. So bridge the single resistor and put the same value resistor between each switch and the respective LED cathode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 [quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1406330382' post='2510783'] Using a single resistor won't work correctly (I have a feeling I may have suggested it earlier but I hadn't thoguht it through). As you go from one to two lit elements, you're doubling the current through the resistor while putting two LEDs in parallel, thus halving their resistance, and it's far too late for me to work out exactly what'll happen but essentially you'll be reducing the voltage across the LEDs. So if the red LED has a lower threshold than the blue LED and the voltage drops to just below the threshold voltage, you'll just see the red. So bridge the single resistor and put the same value resistor between each switch and the respective LED cathode. [/quote] Thanks, that sounds promising, I shall do some experimenting tomorrow. I don't even know why I am worrying about this right now, it's supposed to be for my double Muff pedal and I can't even get the standard Muff side to work right now. I had it working and sounding fantastic, but it was on a board that was too big. So I made some small, easy changes and moved it and now it won't work. Bum nuggets! I got the Musket to work but I actually prefer the sound I was getting out of the Ram's Head with some minor alterations. This is what happens when I try to do stuff when my brain is trying to headbut itself to death on the inside of my skull. Perhaps I'll use my soldering iron for something useful and lobotomise myself with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) [quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1406030863' post='2507624'] The blowerbox has me intrigued, but they're quite expensive and there weren't any for sale last time I looked! Where did you get the schematic/layout from? [/quote] www.tagboardeffects.blogspot.com looks a lot like this: [url="http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/Idiotbox-Blowerbox2_zps3cf42eeb.png.html"][/url] If you're using an LM741 opamp instead of the 308 then you can take the 30pf cap out, as the 741 has one built in. Edited July 26, 2014 by paul_5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 Well, I figured out what was wrong with my Big Muff after changing and moving it... The changes were to make it fit a smaller board, knocking a column off each end, so I was having to move some stuff, and I forgot to move one of the cuts. I spent last night trying to get it to work with the 9v wire in the wrong place, and because I didn't move the cut there is nowhere to put that wire, so I am going to have to tack it onto the back. The worst thing it that there was room to move the cut into, leaving the perfect spot for the 9v wire. Oh well, at least it works now. Now to install an order switcher and box it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 [quote name='DolganoFF' timestamp='1406320598' post='2510669'] You still have three wires coming to "color" pins, just put three resistors there. [/quote] Sorry for being so dim last night (no pun intended...). It really was one of those, all too common for me, moments when I can't see what is right in front of me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 [quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1406330382' post='2510783'] Using a single resistor won't work correctly (I have a feeling I may have suggested it earlier but I hadn't thoguht it through). As you go from one to two lit elements, you're doubling the current through the resistor while putting two LEDs in parallel, thus halving their resistance, and it's far too late for me to work out exactly what'll happen but essentially you'll be reducing the voltage across the LEDs. So if the red LED has a lower threshold than the blue LED and the voltage drops to just below the threshold voltage, you'll just see the red. So bridge the single resistor and put the same value resistor between each switch and the respective LED cathode. [/quote] Thank you! I did some experimenting and found a combination of resistors that allows both red and green to glow simultaneously. I need to find a way to diffuse the colour now, with the clear LED the colours don't blend as well as I would have liked and they just look like a red and blue next to each other, rather than the hoped for purple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DolganoFF Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 Maybe sand the LED a little with fine sandpaper and make it matte? This is not reversible though, I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) [quote name='DolganoFF' timestamp='1406401277' post='2511260'] Maybe sand the LED a little with fine sandpaper and make it matte? This is not reversible though, I guess... [/quote] Excellent idea. I think I might even go as far as to sand it flat and flush to its mount. Edit: The sandpaper worked a treat. I'm not going to sand it flat because too much protrudes from the bezel, but it looks a lot better now. Might have to try to dial out a bit more of the red, it looks pretty good as it is, though, so I will only do it if I get really bored. Edited July 27, 2014 by KingBollock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 I've rather surprised myself this evening. I got it working! All of it, the Big Muff and the Musket, all on one board small enough to fit into a 1590BB box (even with 9 knobs, 2 toggle switches, 2 foot switches and an LED). And it sounds incredible, absolutely monstrous. I wasn't overly keen on the Musket by the time I had built it, but the way it interacts with the Ram's Head is ace, and the order switcher adds a whole other dimension. I am usually a set and forget kind of guy when it comes to effects, but this thing craves molestation, it screams "Play with me!". Once I have it in its box I may even do a video of it, which is something I never thought I'd catch myself doing. There probably won't be any gut shots because the wiring is shamefully messy, and I don't want to risk interfering too much just to make it tidy, I am just hoping I never have to look inside it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umcoo Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 [quote name='jetofuj' timestamp='1396965636' post='2419190'] And another GGG Brassmaster. This time deluxe version. [/quote] I know I'm a bit late to the party, but that looks superb. Where did you get the enclosure from jetofju? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Anyone got an ideas for how I can add a simple noise gate to a pedal? I know the Big Muff has a noise gate mod, and I assume that it will also work with the Musket. But the problem I have is that they are noisy when on together, but really quiet otherwise. I am going to experiment with that mod, to see what happens, but would be grateful for alternative ideas while I wait for parts. I also want to add this: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2012/02/split-n-blend.html I did manage to get everything into the box I had but I physically had to force it in because of the depth of one of the toggle switches, which probably isn't ideal, so I am going to get a bigger box, which will give me plenty of room for the blend circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Right, I have managed to get the board with the Big Muff and the Musket in a bigger box, and I have added a switch for changing the first diodes in the Muff (original, none and green LEDs) and the Split N Blend circuit. Really happy with the diode mod, I might add one to the Musket, too, maybe experiment a bit with asymmetrical diodes. Not quite so happy with the blender. This is the one I have used. What I think would help is a boost on the clean side, I am thinking of the LPB-1, as I have the parts already, but I am not sure where to insert it. Can anyone help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle psychosis Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 [quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1406394086' post='2511182'] www.tagboardeffects.blogspot.com looks a lot like this: [url="http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/Idiotbox-Blowerbox2_zps3cf42eeb.png.html"][/url] If you're using an LM741 opamp instead of the 308 then you can take the 30pf cap out, as the 741 has one built in. [/quote] Thanks! What do the blue circles on the links/cuts diagram mean? Never seen that before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 [quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1407170872' post='2518031'] This is the one I have used. What I think would help is a boost on the clean side, I am thinking of the LPB-1, as I have the parts already, but I am not sure where to insert it. Can anyone help? [/quote] If I'm reading it correctly (I hope !), the transistor on the right is acting as a buffer for the clean signal, and the pot mixes the clean and effected sound.You could put your booster inbetween the board and the pot. I'd be wary of using an LBP-1 as they invert the phase of your signal, which won't get on well with the effects loop. Could you change the circuit slightly to get some variable gain out of the 2nd transistor ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoirBass Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) [quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1407190854' post='2518310'] Thanks! What do the blue circles on the links/cuts diagram mean? Never seen that before. [/quote] They are points where there are two links in one hole, in the above diagram there are three seperate links down the centre. Edited August 5, 2014 by NoirBass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) I'm mulling this over as my next project - a JFET-based version of the Alembic F-2B preamp. I've always fancied building a 1U bass preamp - though this would be a good place to start. Anyone built anything similar ? I did have a version of the 'Flipster' JFET version of an Ampeg Portaflex, but didn't like the EQ that much. Edited August 7, 2014 by ahpook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 If it's going in a 1U then you've got space for a 'Mids' knob, surely…? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) [quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1407451188' post='2520802'] If it's going in a 1U then you've got space for a 'Mids' knob, surely…? [/quote] It has mids the connections are down at the bottom right Here's the schematic it's taken from. [url="https://sites.google.com/site/brianthornock/FET-2BSchemRevised.png"]https://sites.google...chemRevised.png[/url] The vero layout misses out the resistor on the supply (current limiting ?) and the bright switch. Edited August 7, 2014 by ahpook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigwan Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 (edited) A 1u solid state bass preamp? Surely you've considered the Kreuzer? http://www.albertkreuzer.com/preamp.htm Edit: I believe the sadowsky on board preamp is similar to what you're already looking at... Edited August 8, 2014 by Bigwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Yes - seen the Kreuzer, but the AlemFET has a vero layout ! I'd love to try making my own boards - one day maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 [quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1407454930' post='2520833'] It has mids the connections are down at the bottom right Here's the schematic it's taken from. [url="https://sites.google.com/site/brianthornock/FET-2BSchemRevised.png"]https://sites.google...chemRevised.png[/url] The vero layout misses out the resistor on the supply (current limiting ?) and the bright switch. [/quote] Don't forget to bias those 201s properly - they're fussy buggers when it comes to current... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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