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Peavey T-40 Basses


FlatEric
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[u][size=4]Hi to all those of you out there who have, or are interested in the Peavey T-40[/size][/u]

As there seems to be a lot more interest in this great instrument and a lot of info swapping
is hogging up space in "Gear Porn", I thought I would get this started.

So anyone out there who has got one, two, or more - drop in and say Hi! :)


For those who aren't familiar with the beast. . . . . . . . .


This is the animal. :rolleyes:








Look forward to hearing from you.


Cheers.

Flat Eric. :lol:

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Hi I'm Ash and I've been a T-40aholic for 5 years. Mine is a 79 toaster, natural 5 piece ash (well four of the 5 are ash anyway) maple necked mojo beast. There's not really anything special about it as far as finish goes but that doesn't matter, tone matters and she has bags of it!

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Eric - those pictures of yours are still gear porn :)

I've got a black '83 model with blade pickups. It's a bit beaten up, but I don't care as it sounds perfect. I tend to play via just the bridge pup in out of phase mode. Wack on a bit of compression and it sounds amazing.

The only problem is, my Jazz sounds very weedy and reedy in comparison so it doesn't get played all that much. My Westone Spectrum can compete with the T-40 in terms of power, but it doesn't have the sound range.

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Welcome on board.
Ash, Jerry - nice to see you as some of the early posters - hope to see Kingforaday popping up soon.

Allighatt0r, welcome - you'll love it.
Post up some pics in Kingforaday's thread in Gear Porn.

I'm off now to post up pics of my Natural '79.

Hope to see more posts from others - there must be more of you out there. :)

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[quote name='razze06' post='845972' date='May 23 2010, 08:15 PM']I'll take pics of my t40 as soon as i'm finished with the house move...[/quote]

Great stuff - look forward to it.

Pics in Gear Porn - General T-40 stuff, technical and introductions, in here. :)

Cheers. :rolleyes:

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eric i don't have, but am very attracted t the T-40 - so can I play?

would be interested to know, will a good strap ease some of the heavy duty people talk about - but i guess the weight is where all the tone comes from? aside from the pups of course

Also, is there anywhere in particular you've bought these? do they mainly deal out of the states?

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The weight isn't a big deal. I prefer it's weight over other basses, if anything. Mostly as I stoop too much playing lighter basses :)

As for straps, I tried a wide leather one but didn't like it. I went instead for a Racer X strap made by a US firm called Couch. All of their straps are made from old car-seat vinyl. The Racer X is very comfy and has no problems with the T-40. In fact, they said they'd replace the strap if it broke under the stress - so the T-40 is testing it out :rolleyes: Couch's website can be found [url="http://www.couchguitarstraps.com/products_all.html?zenid=s0r5jlg4ecsq8bpkmk7t21nmj4"]here[/url] - highly recommended!

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Mine is on a dimarzio lock strap thingy. Same as my other basses. I'm in the habbit of giving it hell on stage so I had to go for security over comfort. The weight doesn't bother me too much. Just play it slightly higher so my back doesn't bend too much.

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[quote name='Jigster' post='846032' date='May 23 2010, 09:19 PM']eric i don't have, but am very attracted t the T-40 - so can I play?

would be interested to know, will a good strap ease some of the heavy duty people talk about - but i guess the weight is where all the tone comes from? aside from the pups of course

Also, is there anywhere in particular you've bought these? do they mainly deal out of the states?[/quote]

Yes, of course you can - the more, the merrier :lol:

Everyone keeps mentioning weight :)
There are [i]some[/i] that are heavier but in the main, they are around 10lbs.

Is that heavy?? :lol:

This is something I posted some time ago.

One of the things that is often said about the T-40 is how powerful
the pups are and how you can dial in a lot of different subtle tone
differences.
Although they were all machine made and feel pretty much the same,
they all have slight differences in sound. Two of the same year, side
by side, have a difference. Pretty much in line with other makes, I guess.
In reality, this would only make a difference in a studio, live - you would
not be able to tell.

The other thing is the weight.

Well, compared to a Steinberger, yes!
Compared to a Jazz or Precision, Yes.
I do have heavier, though - an Ibanez Studio that you could knock posts
into the ground with!! :rolleyes:
I was thinking about this, earlier this year, when I opened up my '79 to
sort out an annoying crackle, I decided to strip it down, clean it up and
give it a good service.
I weighed the parts on a very accurate industrial scale.
The body was 2.15Kg - 4.73 lbs, neck 1.16KG - 2.55 lbs and all the remaining
parts were 1.45KG - 3.19 lbs. Total 4.76KG - 10.49 lbs.
When you consider that each bridge saddle weighs about one ounce and the whole
bridge, assembled, is just under 1 lb, at 15 ounces, I think that's what tipped it over
the edge! Does anyone know of a heavier bridge?? :lol:
Having weighed some of the others, 10.5 lbs is about on the mark.
Does this add to the sound? Well, all things considered, I suppose it does.
What are they like to gig with?
Well, our sets are about 45 to 50 minutes and it doesn't bother me, in fact
after a while you get used to it and then going back to something lighter/smaller,
feels a bit odd.

I use a standard Wrangler strap, no padding.

They do come up for sale in the UK, you just have to keep looking.
I have sold three of mine, in the last two years and there have been at least 6 or 7
come up for sale this year.
I did muse over selling some of mine but every time I get round to doing it, I change
my mind. :lol:
The most common ones are the Natural/Maple. The most rare ones, as far as I know,
are the Red/RW. They also did Sunburst, Tanburst, Orangeburst, (not sure that's what it is
but it is brighter than the tan, Black, White and Wine. Maple boards are the most common,
Rosewood is quite a rarity on any of the colours.



And finally. . . . . . .

[quote name='allighatt0r' post='841260' date='May 18 2010, 07:15 PM']Question for you T-40 nuts: Why do they put the neck plate on upside down? Seems a bit odd![/quote]

This is the answer from someone "in the know", who asked Chip Todd, creator of the "T"'s.


"I actually asked Chip that same question a few years ago while at his shop.

He said it was so the audience could read the name if you flipped the body up while playing.

Have someone put your T on and flip the body up. Yep. Can read the neck plate plain as day.

Personally I think he was pulling my leg, but it does make sense".


No, I don't believe it either :lol: :lol: :P

Cheers. :lol:

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Hi Eric, thanks for clearing up the neckplate thing!

Got my T-40 last night, and still haven't played it through an amp! (Don't have an instrument cable around!) Bu sounds lovely acoustic.

Lots of things to do to it though, it really needs setting up for me, it plays lovely, but i play too hard for the action and the neck tilt adjustment could do with erm... adjusting! :rolleyes:

Has anybody replaced their scratchplates? The one on mine is very buckled (common ailment!) and i wonder if it's worth getting a new one [url="http://www.wdmusic.com/pickguard_pv_2900.html"]here[/url]... Not sure if you can class the pickguard being like this character or mojo though!!! I love black/black/maple but i'm considering a white scratch and truss-rod cover (I know mister coolandclassic guitars has trussrod covers available) just to be really different!

On top of that, I need to replace the switches, take all the screws off and scrub them/bathe them in cola because they're rusty, replace both pickup surrounds (both are cracked and one has lost a corner), clean the knobs (possibly in the same way as the screws), get a new set of strings on it, set up the intonation (i don't think it's out, just want to be completely certain), clean the frets (which are in great condition and the fingerboard is spotless!), wash the outside of the case and possibly try and brush some life into the lining, may even get a new nut, the current one appears fine but would prefer a brass one to what appears to be just a generic silver coloured metal! Also, what looks like the top layer of the black plastic on the pickups (where you would put the bread in the toaster) has come off a bit on a couple of areas... don't think i'll bother doing anything with this though!

So yeah! Looking forward to the long road ahead with my T-40! :) Will get pictures up when i eventually get round to taking some!

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[quote name='cocco' post='846366' date='May 24 2010, 11:30 AM']Anyone spotted T-40 s being used anywhere in the mainstream? Friendly Fires had one in a video not so long ago.[/quote]

Not in the mainstream, no. I posted a Youtube link in the other T-40 thread that showed it in use by a female bass player in a C&W band. You can also see one in action (rosewood fretboard) with Big Black [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKsw6xaw9n0"]here...[/url]

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[quote name='allighatt0r' post='846813' date='May 24 2010, 07:58 PM']Has anybody replaced their scratchplates? The one on mine is very buckled (common ailment!) and i wonder if it's worth getting a new one [url="http://www.wdmusic.com/pickguard_pv_2900.html"]here[/url]... Not sure if you can class the pickguard being like this character or mojo though!!! I love black/black/maple but i'm considering a white scratch and truss-rod cover (I know mister coolandclassic guitars has trussrod covers available) just to be really different![/quote]


I think you can get new ones on Ebay for not too much money - less than 30-odd bucks, IIRC.

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[quote name='allighatt0r' post='846813' date='May 24 2010, 07:58 PM']Hi Eric, thanks for clearing up the neckplate thing!

Got my T-40 last night, and still haven't played it through an amp! (Don't have an instrument cable around!) Bu sounds lovely acoustic.

Lots of things to do to it though, it really needs setting up for me, it plays lovely, but i play too hard for the action and the neck tilt adjustment could do with erm... adjusting! :lol:

Has anybody replaced their scratchplates? The one on mine is very buckled (common ailment!) and i wonder if it's worth getting a new one [url="http://www.wdmusic.com/pickguard_pv_2900.html"]here[/url]... Not sure if you can class the pickguard being like this character or mojo though!!! I love black/black/maple but i'm considering a white scratch and truss-rod cover (I know mister coolandclassic guitars has trussrod covers available) just to be really different!

On top of that, I need to replace the switches, take all the screws off and scrub them/bathe them in cola because they're rusty, replace both pickup surrounds (both are cracked and one has lost a corner), clean the knobs (possibly in the same way as the screws), get a new set of strings on it, set up the intonation (i don't think it's out, just want to be completely certain), clean the frets (which are in great condition and the fingerboard is spotless!), wash the outside of the case and possibly try and brush some life into the lining, may even get a new nut, the current one appears fine but would prefer a brass one to what appears to be just a generic silver coloured metal! Also, what looks like the top layer of the black plastic on the pickups (where you would put the bread in the toaster) has come off a bit on a couple of areas... don't think i'll bother doing anything with this though!

So yeah! Looking forward to the long road ahead with my T-40! :) Will get pictures up when i eventually get round to taking some![/quote]

Hi. Glad you have got your hands on it. :rolleyes:

Neck tilt is perhaps the last thing. Check there is not too much relief on the neck.
Mine are all set up to around 2.5mm at the 12th. Takes some care but it will be worth it.
On [i]some[/i] of the scratchplates, they do buckle slightly - part of the character - if it was a Fender, it would be Mojo. :lol:
I'd leave it.
Pup rings do crack due to age but mainly over tightening of the screws.
Cleaning up the knobs/screws should be easy. Strings, Picato 735 LHY - try them.
The nuts are unique and an after market won't fit directly, I would leave it and keep it original.
The top layer of the old Toasters do suffer if the pups are too high. Again, it's Mojo. :lol:

In a nutshell, give it some TLC but try and leave it as original as poss. :lol:

If you need any help, PM me and we can sort it out between us.

Cheers. :lol:

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[quote name='FlatEric' post='846919' date='May 24 2010, 09:48 PM']Mine are all set up to around 2.5mm at the 12th. Takes some care but it will be worth it.[/quote]

Can you expand upon that please? I'm assuming this is the clearance you get when depressing the string at both the first and last fret? Or am I barking up the wrong tree...? :)

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[quote name='Jerry_B' post='846930' date='May 24 2010, 09:56 PM']Can you expand upon that please? I'm assuming this is the clearance you get when depressing the string at both the first and last fret? Or am I barking up the wrong tree...? :lol:[/quote]


Hi.

The measurement is with the bass lying on it's back, as when you put it in the playing position,
it raises by about 0.25mm. Gravity!!

Many years ago, I saw somone using wire to measure action. Wire is made in Standard Wire Gauge, SWG
and is a uniform standard size.
Sliding something round between the fret and the string, is the most accurate way of measuring the distance.
I never did quite get the steel rule thing. :)

This is my '79, which is the one I am playing at the moment - the vernier shows the size of a drill bit and this
is slid between the fret and the string.
If the gap was greater than the 2.2mm, it would roll off the fret. As the drill is secure, the gap must be less than 2.19mm. :rolleyes:

So, the action on this one is 2.2mm, when laid on it's back - it was measured as 2.4mm in the playing position.

[attachment=50547:Action.jpg]
[attachment=50548:Action1.jpg]

On average, in the playing position, mine average around 2.5mm, which is very comfortable to play.
Not sure how old your strings are but if they need changing, try Picato 735 LHY. :lol:

Please bear in mind that I play off the front corner of the back pup - if you play nearer the neck,
this would have to be lifted to suit.

Hope this helps. :lol:

Cheers.

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