tauzero

Some of the staff have come via Musical Exchanges and PMT. I was in there very recently - bought a second-hand GK MB150 combo which had the speaker cone disintegrate on first proper use, and they were very good about seeing if it could be repaired (the 12" driver is now unobtainable and substitutes don't work so well) and refunding me when it couldn't.

Another point is that every single image of a Blitz bass shows them with PJ pickups, not twin soapbars. And the Blitz doesn't have a scratchplate. However, the Hamer Explorer has twin soapbars and a white scratchplate with what I assume is a pickup selector switch.

Absolutely stunning.

Have you got the Schaller straplocks on your strap? If not, this won't work very well as a strap pin. Assuming you have, if the straplocks on the strap have a circular knurled knob holding them on, they're the new variety. If they have a hexagonal nut holding them on, they're the old variety. They are not fully compatible. The new variety of straplock will fil onto the old strap pin, but the old straplock won't fit onto the new strap pin. I'm pretty sure that https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/136795583018 are what you need except that they're chrome, not nickel.

I use Procell batteries which are Duracells, and take my life in my hands[1] by getting them off Ebay, and they last (literally) years. But my basses get far less use than @kiat's, on a busy open mic week with a gig and learning a song or two as well I'd probably be looking at six or eight hours, and that would be on whichever of three (or so) basses I picked up. And maybe that also explains a lot about the quality of my playing. [1] Hyperbole, OK?

It's very much a step by step process, and once you understand the purpose of each step, you don't need much other than guidelines and guide measurements. And apologies if that sounds patronising. Are you starting from an instrument with possible issues with fret heights, or is this a bass which just needs truss rod, bridge height, and intonation set up?

The trouble with doing anything electronic about the LEDs is that you're doing something electronic about the LEDs. If they're mounted flush to a board, you may have to wreak a certain amount of havoc to introduce a series resistance. And if the limiting resistor is SMD, that's even more of a nightmare. This is one case where addressing the symptom rather than the cause is the best (or at least simplest) course o0f action.

If it's just windings rubbing against each other rather than a full transition between open and short circuit, it won't show up. I had a couple of curly cables in the 70s. Put me off them for life (and cables put me off cables for life too, wireless all the way now).

I have a very similar pedalboard with a 15-pin D plug, and looking at the interior, it simply connects the switches to most of the pins via diodes. Unfortunately two of the pedals are broken, and although the very helpful makers sent me two spare pedals free of charge, I have to find a way of removing the spindle that they're mounted on. Anyroadup, if you're not scared of soldering, electronics, and programming, you could make a MIDI pedalboard from that (just using it for the switches), a multiplexor or array of diodes to reduce the 13 notes to a 4-bit binary number, and an Arduino.

Find a music shop with a decent selection of basses and try a few out. Don't just try the Precisions.

Either Tonelib or Zoom to get their arses into gear and produce Windows and Android editors for the more recent Zoom models - the MS-Plus range, the B2-4, and I think the B6 too.

That depends what day of the week it is. Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays are multiples of five, Tuesdays and Thursdays are multiples of four, and the weekend is prime numbers.

Oh yes, I'd forgotten Data's cat Spot.

Rash