tauzero

Lovely. Almost makes me want a painted bass.

Porthole is no problem (holesaw), also the control plate (jigsaw). I'm weighing up how best to do the speaker cut out, I also have a palm router (and a plunge router although I'm not sure about the chuck on it).

48 tooth fine cut - https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-wood-chipboard-mdf-circular-saw-blade-184mm-x-16mm-48t/826af We had a few hours of dryness. I'm sure it'll be back to wet soon.

The point of the PiPedal is to work as an effects pedal. I'm not sure whether there's a way to intercept the digital output of the PiPedal, I haven't been into that yet.

Battens already cut to length and drilled. My circular saw proved capable of cutting a triple layer sandwich (once I set the cut height right). I used a different cutting pattern as I was cutting a maximum of 610mm - first a cut across at 300mm, then a second and third at 376mm. After that, I stacked the three pieces and cut at 276mm twice, so a total of five cuts. First, I made the sled - I'd glued and screwed a length of batten across the panel, and just cut across using that as a guide. Then I clamped up for the first cut, and found that when I'd just nipped up the fixing bolt for the blade that my definition of nipped up and the instructions definition of nipped up are different. Once rectified, off we went. The first cut is the shallowest. After that first cut, I was able to use the piece I'd just cut off to rest the other side of the circular saw base on. Another cut the same and then I stacked the wood. And at last got to the final cut. I still have to cut out holes in the front and rear.

My circular saw proved capable of cutting a triple layer sandwich (once I set the cut height right). I used a different cutting pattern as I was cutting a maximum of 610mm - first a cut across at 300mm, then a second and third at 376mm. After that, I stacked the three pieces and cut at 276mm twice, so a total of five cuts. First, I made the sled - I'd glued and screwed a length of batten across the panel, and just cut across using that as a guide. Then I clamped up for the first cut, and found that when I'd just nipped up the fixing bolt for the blade that my definition of nipped up and the instructions definition of nipped up are different. Once rectified, off we went. The first cut is the shallowest. After that first cut, I was able to use the piece I'd just cut off to rest the other side of the circular saw base on. Another cut the same and then I stacked the wood. And at last got to the final cut. I still have to cut out holes in the front and rear.

Admittedly they're a bit of a wild claim, but let me reassure you that when the guitarist f*cks his volume setting up and you've neglected to put a limiter on the mixer, the result is mind-buggeringly loud.

I only look at FB on a desktop browser using FB Purity.

Input and output are both from the audio interface, the signal gets passed into and out of the Pi via USB.

We use Alto TS308s for FOH and TS408s for monitors (it works better that way round, the 408s are an ideal shape for monitors). Vocals only most of the time, sometimes one of the guitars and sometimes my soft synth. They're great.

But don't do a 1990s "Click here to enter" home page a la Rob Green...

The saw sled is the width rather than the length of the panel - I think it would work doing cuts 3 and 4 first, then stacking the middle and right-hand pieces (I suspect the circular saw might baulk at 36mm).

Correct. Looking at images of OLP TLs, they're all quite different.

Seems like a generic 3-band Chinese EQ. There is an alternative circuit which consists of the original 2-band EQ plus a mid control - see https://andyszeugs.wordpress.com/cheapray-5-string/ for the mid control part (the 2 band EQ is Stinger, musikding kit or OSH Park PCB), but that does involve a very expensive pot. There's also a 3 band Stingray EQ clone circuit that can be found on TB (thread title "DIY Stingray 3EQ Preamp") using an OSH Park PCB.

Of course not, they should be set on fire to power electricity generation.