tauzero

Do you have to remove the rim from the grill first? It's going to somewhat constrain the flattening if you don't, isn't it?

Well, you never know... I thought I'd have a look at a Vintera Bass VI and see if that inspired me, and it did occur to me that it would be the right size to put over the retaining nuts for the pots so that when you put the knobs on, they'd be spaced a card thickness away from the control plate so they'd be a consistent height and have adequate clearance.

I'm happy to take expensive basses (or what I consider expensive) out to just about anywhere. I just happen to have some basses that I categorise as expensive and others that I don't.

I've seen quite a few times people saying that they wouldn't want to take an expensive bass to the Dog & Trumpet, but what is an expensive bass? I've got several basses that I class as expensive basses, but maybe my idea of expensive is calibrated differently to other people. To me, the threshold is £1000, which may just be an indicator that I'm rather old and my Warwick Thumb cost me £900 in 1988, and that was bloody expensive. I think most of us would agree that a Fodera Yin Yang at £7kish is expensive. But where does everyone else place that marker? This isn't about what you get for the money, or any sentimental value, it's purely a monetary thing. What is the minimum price for a bass to be considered expensive?

It should. Also, you could get to answer 1a) by using something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303990422806 - step down buck converter to a USB output, or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176692251941 with solder pad outputs, or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397239175045 which is cheaper but uses a 12V input (which you happen to have).

1. Yes. 1a. Why not use a USB PSU? 5V is much closer to 4.5V than 9V is. 2. If you're going to be cutting the wires, mark one of them with a sharpie both sides of the cut BEFORE cutting, then after cutting determine the polarity using your multimeter. However, as the LEDs are diodes, they should be fine with reversed polarity.

Looks like it's 14mm across flats - were you making a spanner for the tuners?

Glad to hear it. My second-hand Space 5 had a strange pickup issue - when I picked it up, I only tested it with the blend knob at each end of its travel rather than in the middle. When I got it home, I found the B, E, and A strings were out of phase but the D and G strings weren't. Replaced the MK1s with MK5CBCs and all was well. So maybe there's also a bit of a QC problem with pickups.

Especially if the turd polishing will start with a decapitation.

For you TE hunters, there's a 2x10 and a 1x15 on FB now in Northampton, £90 each. And the 1x15 has got wheels (but possibly not the original driver), and both have had the XLRs replaced by Speakons. UK Music Gear Exchange group.

Did she? I've seen here with little else than Fenders (mainly J but the odd P).

A height gauge for mice?

Looks really good. I trust that the dislocated fingers weren't linked to the construction. As for valuing it, I have no idea. One-offs get valued at all sorts of prices, including the totally delusional. I would guess at a bit more than an intact headed T24, it's going to depend on how much someone wants a headless.

You can have a fliptop battery holder rather than having to undo screws to get to the battery. I know that Warwicks after around 1990 had a clip-on rear cavity cover but that's a bit of a faff. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256081542485