None of those 10 limited edition ones are going to get played anywhere that they might get dinks and scrapes. Correction: none of those 10 limited edition ones are going to get played anywhere.
I don't think any of them make more than 1/200th of the number of basses that EBMM does. And the amount of labour per instrument will be less than that of the solo luthiers, who are generally making instruments with more complex construction than a length of wood with a strip of wood glued to it bolted to another block of wood with some stain and lacquer on it. And EBMM have more purchasing clout than a small scale luthier. And the supplies for a small scale luthier still have to come from somewhere so are as exposed to import costs.
Interesting philosophical question - the non-limited edition One may be had in fretted and fretless forms. Seeing as any purist worth their salt will point out that Pino played a fretless, is there any reason why the Pino basses shouldn't include a 5-string if they can include a fretted 4?
So why would a handmade bass from Alan Cringean, Jon Shuker, or Martin Petersen cost less than a CNC-made bass from a maker with enormous purchasing clout?
Did a dep gig for The Bonnevilles at bike night at Darley Moor. All went well and I suspect they'll be rebooked at the agreed higher amount (and the regular bassist will benefit!).
Forgot to take a long lead and my MS-60B fell off the amp so finished up going Sei Flamboyant fretted 5 -> Lekato WS-90 wireless -> Tecamp Puma 900 -> GR Bass AT212. My leather waistcoat with all the bike badges on has shrunk. Feets were encased in Caravelle memory foam trainers, as always.
I'm depping on bass for The Bonnevilles (rock'n'roll and proper R&B) on Wednesday 9th July at Darley Moor race track bike night, just south of Ashbourne.
Thumb 5 NT, 1988:
Defretted Thumb with neck reprofiled to JD profile (since this photo it's had an ebony unlined board fitted):
JD Thumb made in 1987 - the bass I've had the longest since I bought it at the start of 1988.
Not just the soldering, it looks like there are stray wisps of copper too. I'd desolder each joint, cut off the end of the wire and re-strip the insulation with not too much wire exposed, make sure all the cores are together and resolder it.
I have actually put Dyno labels with "Tx" and "Rx" onto them. However, this requires that the user actually looks at them prior to plugging them back in rather than thinking they remember which is which after unplugging them. And colour coding them would mean having to remember which colour means what, and that's not going to happen.