Andyjr1515

Oh...and, you never know with such things, but based on the photos and where the crack actually is, I would be very surprised, if done as above and from what I can see in the photo, if the resulting mend was not strong enough.

Yes - this ^^^^ I've never used Super 'Phatic (it sounds great!) but you can certainly do the same thing with extra-low-viscosity CA glue (number of makers/suppliers but it is easy to get hold of and is a specialist 'super glue' that is much, much thinner than the standard stuff ) As @Stub Mandrel says, capillary action sucks the glue deep into the joint. Masking tape right up to the edge is essential with CA glue, though, and after peeling it off, probably would need scraping with a razor blade to clean it up - and this might be where the super-phatic may well have the edge if it is water-based. If you're fast with your fingers, you could even squirt the glue into the crack while the string tension is on, maximising the opening, then immediately release the tension when the glue's in there and, as @Stub Mandrel says, pop the pre-prepared clamps on.

Sounds lovely, @ped.

The new neck looks the business, @ped . Ref the old neck, personally, I would take the tension off the trussrod to avoid the possibility of a permanent back bow setting in over storage time...

I have to say, that shiny neck does look the absolute dog's wotsits!! If you can get one/get one done like that, I'll be well impressed

Laser engravers are stunning bits of kit. And this is a stunning use of a laser engraver. 5 gold stars and smiley face - ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Wow!!! That is superb. And I struggle to get my head around how your did it. Lovely work generally, but that feature is a 'knock out of the ball park' jobee. Bravo!!

I would second @neepheid in terms of Artec's 'bang for the buck'. I can't think of any Artec product I've used or fitted that hasn't hit way above its weight and I've certainly used their lipstick pickups in my own guitars in the past.

Yes, absolutely. As @Hellzero says, small changes in the angle of the neck make a significant change to the action height. The Amazon link that @Hellzero puts on of the full-pocket tapered shims is also spot on.

It doesn't have to be. Accepting that any mod, good or bad, will reduce the resale value, then if the bass is potentially a keeper but you just want to make it more comfortable to play by taking some weight out of it - then you could do it from the back (upper horn, lower horn, either side of the neck run) without overly upsetting the balance and just leave the back with open chambers. It's a bit 'horses for courses'.

Be aware, by the way, that the amount of material you have to remove to make any tangible difference to the weight can be surprisingly high! You might find this thread for a very heavy Harley Benton I did a few years back for @Harryburke of interest:

Provided that you don't weaken the bridge area, it is unlikely to make any perceptible difference to the sound. And even those cases where the mods are so extreme that it does make a difference to the sound, it is just that - a difference, not a detriment. So, unless the bass is absolutely the best sound that you've ever experienced regardless of make, cost, type...then go for it. A bass that is too heavy is a bass that doesn't get played very often - if at all...

...and I'm assuming you don't have any proper nut files @Skybone The correct answer is 'take it to a guitar tech' but, if you are willing to risk having to do that anyway if it all goes wrong : What I would personally do for a bass - if my precious files got stolen on just the day I needed them - is: - use the new strings themselves as the nut file formers. This is tricky for a G string but, happily, you don't need to do that one - make a sharp thin pencil mark along the bottom of the nut slots - wrap a small piece of some 320-ish grit paper around the string - a half-loop only - hold the paper tight on the string with thumb and finger of both hands and gently file the slot back and forth - be patient...105 to 135 is quite a change - change the sandpaper from time to time - check the string fit without the sandpaper wrap from time to time to see the progress or lack of it - as soon as there is ANY sign that the pencil mark is being sanded away, STOP!!!! Be aware that properly slots are angled down a touch towards the headstock so that it is the very front edge of the slot that is the highest point. You may need to follow this angle as you sand if you find that the string is riding high at the back edge of the slot.

It was certainly an interesting veneer! This is how the final thing came out:

Most kind...but does Andyjr1515 know his epoxies from his onions?? Jury might be out