Andyjr1515

You are very kind, @Hellzero. And, @Bass Wielder, I would normally JUMP at the chance - that looks a lovely bass indeed But, with regret, I am going to have to pass on this one. The pesky hand arthritis is throwing its toys out of the pram at the moment and I've had to drop all fretboard & fret work (in fact, just at the moment, almost all building and fettling stuff). Hopefully another Basschatter will be able to step in (worth looking through the 'Basschatters willing/able to help other Basschatters' section on the forum) because I reckon we would all like to see this bass back in action Andy

Hi, @julesb I'm not sure that Warwick trussrods are any different in effectiveness or reliability that any other commercial offering for two way rods out there. And the advantage of using a Warwick one in a Warwick is that you absolutely know they are going to fit. Over the years, I have fitted pretty much every rod maker's products and quite a few of them need slightly different chiselling because of subtle differences in their dimensions. That is fine if you are fitting them pre-fretboard gluing...but more of an issue if one gets stuck halfway through inserting them in the Warwick system. Ref 'multiple failure', then I think the clue is in your observation that the presently failed one is upside down. In my earlier ventures, I came across a similar reversed one in what should have been a 'standard' bass (ie not Rickenbacker/Gillett, etc that do have reverse actions) - and it surprised me how much bend I'd inflicted before I twigged that the gap was, indeed, getting bigger! So, if a previous owner who maybe wasn't familiar with trussrods had replaced the original broken one upside down, and then had just followed the instructions of 'righty tighty', it's entirely possible that it would have weakened it by the time that it was realised that it needed to work the other way. Hope this helps Andy

I'm afraid that USA are still fully Imperial Units for size and distance measurements. So yes, all Made-In-USA instruments will be inches and fractions of an inch for spanners, sockets and allen keys for, not only bridges, but all other hardware too...

Bass sounds great! Some nice playing there too...

Splendid!

Remember to vacuum the cavities and work area well when working with carbon fibre - the dust and fibres is/are very conductive... Looks splendid, btw...

I lacquer first and then fret. Pros and cons, though...

You can do it either way. Pros and cons but both work OK

Congrats, @Basvarken , for your No Treble 'Bass of the Week ' Very, very well deserved. And, as a 5 times winner of Bass of the Week...your build STILL blows my socks off!!!

That is stunning. As a builder myself, this blows my socks off!

If you have a small-tipped soldering iron, hold the tip in the screw head cross-slot for 30 seconds or so, then let it cool for a couple of minutes and try it with firm pressure applied, from a correct size cross-head screwdriver, as you turn it. There is the risk that the plastic cover will soften a touch, but that's a lesser risk than rounding the crosshead... This is the standard method of removing snapped-off screws too...

What kind are you using, Si? And how are you inserting them? There's some tips 'n tricks for some types

Splendid

The great thing about the Model One is that the top sits flush with the bass body and has a generous overlap to hide many sins @PaulThePlug Personally, I would : - I would first line up the chisel (if I was using a 'factory sharpened, DIY Store' chisel straight out the packet, I would use a narrower chisel (probably 1/2") as that will cut easier than a wider one) along each of the lines and give it a light tap with a hammer or mallet to break the grain accurately along the full borders of the cut - personally I would drill down to depth first with a 3mm drill all along between the cut line and edge, to remove the bulk, keeping the drill bit as vertical as I can (the corner of a matchbox or similar sitting on the bass top near to where you are drilling is a great guide to see if your drill is perpendicular to the top). - I would then use the chisel to clear the remaining wood left between the drill holes, again using light taps with a hammer or mallet. I would start at the middle of the holes to clear the wood nearest the chamber edge and then, with the remaining wave lines towards the new edge, remove the wood a couple of mm (or less) at a time and just creep up to the new marked line. That way, you never have a large piece of wood breaking off and taking stuff off you don't want removed with it!!