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Andyjr1515
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Here are a few shots of @SpondonBassed's Squier Jag soon after it was finished. Whoever thought that natural, unstained wood could be so stunning! : This is a thread that covers the basic method I use, whereas - while the above is natural veneer just with clear varnish - this one below features a stained finish to the veneer. Applying the veneer is identical, though: -
I didn't do a thread of actually doing the Squier Jag and actually didn't take progress photos (as I confessed, apparently, in a post in 2011. 2011!!!! That's a mid-teenager's life span ago!!) but I think I can find a thread of the method used if the photo links are still sound. I'll have a look.
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Was: From the ashes of disaster...now various projects
Andyjr1515 replied to Dom in Dorset's topic in Build Diaries
I'm so out of touch, @Dom in Dorset, I'd missed the progress on your thread. I just LOVE that denim finish - everything splendid, the instrument itself, the finish. Oh and that travel guitar from a post ages back...absolutely stunning! -
Quick change / slot load bridges?
Andyjr1515 replied to fretmeister's topic in Repairs and Technical
Great bridge - used it a number of times in the past. Just double check (I think Gotoh have proper dimensioned drawings on their website) that the hole positions match...not to cast doubt on Gotoh as much as my belief that 'there's nothing standard about Fender standard sizes' 😀 -
...and a very well deserved winner of No Treble's Bass of the Week! Beautiful bass, splendid build
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With black stain it should be OK, but always useful to have a backup plan 🙂
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Also, with a body, you have to be absolutely sure that you are down to bare wood before you start staining. If it is a previously finished one, it can look like you are down to bare wood but there is often residue of clear original sealers, etc. And no stain will cover those areas evenly. But the same can happen with brand new, unfinished, bodies. The test is to get a damp cloth and wipe it all over. Clean bare wood will soak the moisture in and darken - any residue and the moisture will not soak in and will show up as light patches. If you try to stain this, you will always have a slightly blotchy, uneven colour. Preparing a body for a stained finish is surprisingly hard work!
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Looks absolutely splendid
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This
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Ah - should have added, 'pop a strip of masking tape over the area with the screw sticking through, and then...'
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Setting up a P Bass, Action and Nut Slots
Andyjr1515 replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Repairs and Technical
Yes - I do the same. I look for a 'just perceptible' movement of the string when tapped in the middle between the 1st and 15th/16th. Basically, I'm aiming for a fretboard as flat as possible...but without any back bow. And the only way of knowing for sure that there is no backbow is if you have a 'just perceptible' gap signifying a teeny bow-and-arrow forward bow. I know of no reason why the relief would need to be different with a different fretboard radius for a bass unless - perhaps - the player does string multi-semitone string bends on a tight radius fretboard. -
To be honest, with a standard varnished Squier neck, it is usually not economic to get the trussrod fixed as there tend to be decent second hand or even new replacements around at a similar cost...and there is always a question of why it broke in the first place.
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As the saying goes, 'until it's just hot enough'. Hot soldering iron tip to broken end of screw, try 30 seconds. You can go a bit longer but you don't really want to char the threads in the wood if you want to use the same hole for the replacement screw
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Sorry I'm a bit late to the party. ABSOLUTELY this ^^^^ Very unlikely not to work. Get the screw stub nice and hot then, as @SpondonBassed says, let it cool and then it should come out pretty easily with just a pair of needle-nosed pliers
