Chienmortbb

As someone that has plywood cabs, thin walled plastic cabs and thick walled, multi-ribbed cabinets. The plywood ones are your own LFSys FRFR cabs. The thin walked cabs are Whatfedale Titan 12s, and the the thick walked ribbed cabs are Ramsa WS-A200s. Those that are of a certain age might remember the ad where an elephant stood on four cabinets. Those Ramsa speakers are over 30 years old I believe and still sound great. Similar size to the LFSys Cabinets but weighing almost 50% heavier.

Vigortronix have a few ranges and some of them have output filters very close to the circuit Rod Elliot describes. I will try the 5 watt circuits and then add the filters later. I spoke to Vigortronix and they advised using the newer 6 series. However I have the 1 series ones her now and I will try them first. The Myra ones do not need and external components but are considerably taller. I can accommodate the Myrra ones so perhaps I will order a couple of those too. I have 5 or 6 PCBs so it’s not a problem trying it. It is costing more than I had hoped but I am now determined to find the best way to do it.

The buzz is audible through the amp. It is not that much but I can hear it. Since I last posted I have received the new PSUs but not fitted and tested them. Interesting that Rod Elliot has covered this, I will read it and get back later.

To be fair, my loud, at 73 is not stupid loud and the trouser flap is caused by the velocity of air leaving the port on an LFSys Monaco. The port is at knee height and standing in front of it you really can’t feel it, of course, with a long slot port like on a Barefaced, you would not get that concentrated draught of air.

When listening to comparisons on YouTube etc, I use a decent set of headphones. It shows up most things, even via Bluetooth (my cans are Bluetooth or Wired). However I do agree that phones or laptop speakers are no use for comparisons.

The one thing you cannot reproduce through IEMs or amp less through the PA, is the trouser flap. Stand in front of a well designed front ported bass cab at volume, feel the noize.

Although I am not a rookie as far as electronics goes, however I have made one rookie error. When I tested the unit I had a slight buzz. Very hard to hear, but there nonetheless. It was slightly higher on the Myrra ones than the Vigotronix. The Myrra ones are 2.5 watt, while the Vigortronix are 3 watt. Looked at the specs of the two units, the TC Helicon Mic Mechanic 3 needs 300mA at 9V, which is fine. The power modules I have are 9V 3 watts so 333mA current supply. In my head, that was enough for the Zoom B2 Four too. However, I was wrong, it needs 500mA. Luckily, both Myra and Vigortronix make a pin compatible 5 watt version. That gives me 550mA and it more than enough. I am annoyed that I could have ordered them with the other bits yesterday but hey.

True isolation means no connection at the power supply. The problem, is that on the typical 10 way supply such as Donner etc the power supply duplicates the signal grounding and often causes ground loops that imposes hum or buzz. Many people will never experience it but my two pedals do interact. Using totally isolated supplies will reduce ground or earth loops.

I am planning to build the box around the PSU. I will be making it about 1cm higher at the back.

There are subs in those Bose systems and there may be enough for most gigs. Just make sure you have some type of HPF as otherwise they can become a bit muddy.

I am building this in conjunction with me new pedal board, I did not have this in mind when I designed the PCBs. The PCB is too wide to fit between the ribs of the pedal board and not wide enough to screw directly to the ribs, so I have to add extra wood to allow the PCB to be mounted below the pedal board. I think I will also need a bit more height from add feet. This would allow me to add a case and make it safe (remember 230VAC mains on that PCB). This is one of a number of changes I would make if I redesigned the PCB. As it stands, it does not fit any commercially available die-cast enclosure. I could put the modules 2x2 and that would fit may a Hammond/Gorva/Eddystone style box. This would mean more height required on my pedal board and as I am still in the proof of concept stage, I will work with what I have. I have ordered more parts for the project so will hopefully make more progress early next week. I still plan a real life test before then, either today or tomorrow.

I think you will need an amp/cab. You could go the full FRFR PA cab route, though a decent one will cost. A new RCF/QSC worth its slat being north of £1K. They do occasionally come up "pre-loved" but usually in pairs and most sellers will not split. The advantage of these is the ability to use them as floor monitors when PA is supplied. You could bite the bullet and buy a sub yourself. Depending on your band's PA top cabinets, the choice of the sub's crossover/filtering is crucial. Look for one(s) that has an HPF on the output to the tops and if your tops have an HPF, experiment as to which combination gives the best sound. Or you could get a conventional rig, size is your choice, and we could give more advice knowing the line-up and type of music played. This might be you best/least expensive option.

Horses for courses, over the past three years I have seen in excess of 200 gigs in clubs and pubs and perhaps 2 in theatres. Yes, both theatre gigs were silent stage and only one club gig (Abba Tribute, where one of the members covered half the cost). The sound of one of the theatres gigs was excellent (story of Guitar Heroes), the other was so much boom and mud where we were seated that it was rubbish (Jane Macdonald, I know, but her indoors likes her, and she does suffer my choices all year). The poor gig had a rookie mistake by the sound tech in that he had the subs at either side of the wide stage. Power alley central!

If you convert 9 to 12v, you reduce the available current pro rata. So you would need over 650mA from the 9V supply.

The big test will be my Zoom B2 pedal and TC Helicon Mic Mechanic 2. Both are digital pedals and they can cause more problems than analogue pedals as the clock noise is often left on the power rails. I have had to use the MM2 with batteries for a while to cut down the number of power supplies. My cheapo 10 way made them sing but not in a good way.