Chienmortbb

Just stand in front of the port. Your trousers would flap nicely.

And for that I am grateful. It is a word that should only exist in the dictionaries of mad audiophiles.

I must admit he goes to great lengths to get to the answers. Watch his cabinet video it is insane but again informative.

I have watched this twice now and although it is biased towards guitars, the fundamentals work for bass too. https://youtu.be/wcBEOcPtlYk?si=otak2Z475-79ypb- Jim Lill is a professional guitarist based in Nashville and although no electronic engineer he does use a vigorous way of testing things. His other videos on cabs and mis are also worth watching. Watch the whole video and post your comments on it below. Please keep an open mind.

There is no magic to having two cabs. The power is split between the cabs giving the drivers an easier time. When you start pushing a speaker, power compression creeps in and close to maximum power will rob you of half you volume. Beyma used to publish power compression graphs for their drivers but as no-one else did, it looked to the layman that they were the only ones that suffered it. The second cab is also closer to your ears and that has to be a good thing.

This is generally true. If you need to move a cable and insert/remove it often, you need quality connectors. For patch cable the connectors and cable is less important.

We worshiped those TnBs and Goliaths. The bassist in my first band had that rig. The TnB amp working it worth a lot so as others have said, make sure it goes to the right person.

I have had K&M and Gravity Mic stands, in fact I still have the Gravity one. Both really good quality but I feel that the K&M stands have the edge. Both were one hand operation as I hate adjusting a normal stand with a bass on my shoulder. The Gravity was purchased as the K&M was out of stock at the time but is has always been reliable.

They do make good cables. In general, I avoid gold-plated plugs, even Neutrik's as it is a very thin coating, adds nothing to the conductivity and can look bad if/when the coating starts to wear.

I had a problem the other day with my sound. I hit the bypass foot switch and was almost surprised when it sounded great. Has anyone realisd that one of the sounds they need is that one in their hands?

1. Rich - Trace Elliot TE-1200 amp, Barefaced Super 12T cab, earplugs , Shuker custom 5, Tanglewood TRB-CE acoustic bass gtr. 2. Woody - Rickenbacker 4004-L5, maybe Sei Flamboyant, Same old basschat 12" with some amp, other stuff TBC 3. Pinball (tbc) - some interesting basses 4. Stubsy - Joyo BadASS, GRBASS AT212 slim - only 50W but that should give 120dB at one metre 😇. (or I bring my TE 1110 combo). Some fun pedals. Perhaps the AVII 1960 precision, the Sire P10 and maybe the Fender Performer and something unexpected... 5. Sean - Mesa 400+, Laney Nexus Tube 400 [oh jeez], MJW Taranis 200 (Filthbox Matamp clone with extra channel and EQ), GK MBF500, GK Fusion 550, 2 x LFSys Monaco, 2 x Japanese Market Spector Euros with LHZ-03 preamps, Valenti #005 Super P, Yamaha BB1300, my small but well-appointed pedal-board (Origin Cali 76, Origin DCX, Aguilar Chorusaurus, etc) plus a mini walk-in bass surgery if interested. Plus whatever I might be selling at the time. 6. Rosie - likely I'll bring my upright, set up for bluegrass/folk/jazz if anyone's not played upright before and fancies a go 7. Phil - BassChat cabs, maybe some sort of shootout? 8. MikeD - Laney Digbeth, Zilla 212, Dingwall Combusion, Revelation PJ, pedals, try to finish home made bass🤞🤞🤞🤞 9. neepheid - G&L CLF L-1000, Yamaha BB1200, Sire D5, Sire Z7, Greco LGB-700, Reverend Triad, Epiphone Les Paul (not so) Standard, Epiphone Thunderbird '64, Squier Jaguar H (with Ibanez CAP double humbucker from ATK200/800 etc), Gear4Music rat bass (with Lace Aluma-P), £150 giggable bass challenge, 1 or 2 amps depending upon space... Edited Monday at 15:17 by Rich 10. Jabba_the_gut - Status 3000, Status 4000, Stingray 4, USA Sub 5, Markbass Tube, some pedally bits inc Valeton GP5 cheaply thing 11. Japanaxe Precision(s) & Dingwall(s) DIY 100W Bassman head if finished by then(!) as people seemed to like my B15 clone At least 1 other amp (see sig) 12.chienmortbb - Fender Aerodyne AJB65, G4M pretend aerodyne, Sire Narcus M2 (possibly for sale. Ashdown Restoglide 800 and Bugera Veyron 1001M, LFSys Monza cab. Possibley a number of accessories for sale. I might have to rrim the list as I am due an op shortly and am not allowed to lift anything for 6 weeks. You will notice me as the bloke with no trousers.

These look like quality cables, but they use some of the same claims that snake oil audiophile cable makers. Copper cables are not directional, Also on one or more cables they have used heat-shrink over the end of one plug. There is no need to use heat-shrink on a decent plug. There are few cables that are really low loss (although the loss in HF is usually not crucial for Bass). These include Sommer Spirit LLX, Klotz AC110, Van Damme Silver Series Lo Cap all have very low capacitance hence low loss. The most expensive of these is the Van Damme at just short of £11 per metre. I cannot see where the extra cost comes from, as they proudly say they do not use gold. Those must be some special jack plugs.

Many people cannot say it properly.

Hi Alex, All these recommendations on here will serve you well, however, avoid the Vovox cables. Snake oil at best. To start with, especially in an instrument cable the most important part is the cable. Whether is low loss or ease of coiling. The other thing to keep in mind is length. I sell three types, Sommer Tricone 2, Sommer Tricone XXL and Sommer Spirit LLX. Over 6 metres I would always use the Spirit LLX, it is very low loss and coils really well. It is a bit thicker than the other two, but that is the price you pay for low capacitance, low loss. The upside is it is so easy to coil. Up to 6 metres, you can choose either of the other two. The Tricone 2 is a nice cable and recommended for general use, the Tricone is slightly stiffer and as a result does not twist or tangle as easily as others. Connectors, for instruments, if you want a cable to last, use Neutrik Jacks. They use conductors that are made from a single piece of metal. One of the biggest failures in jack plugs/cables is riveted plugs. If you are going to be a bit rough with your cables, chucking them about etc, avoid Silent Plugs. XLR/ Balanced cables. By using balanced cables, you avoid many of the issues of the ones noted above for instrument leads. Again Neutrik make the best XLR connectors, although the choice of make is not so crucial here. For cable, I stock two types, Cobra, a budget cable and Sommer Stage 22 thinner than the Cobra and slightly better specified. I will send you an instrument lead price list later, and can give you a quote for XLR cables once you tell me your exact requirements.