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Nessy

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  1. Brand new and unopened Dean Markley Blue Steel Bass Strings - Medium gauge, 50, 70, 85, 105. Here's the blurb: "Whether you live for a thundering thump, a rhythmic slap or an artfully woven line, Dean Markley Blue Steel bass strings will get you there. Cryogenically frozen with a blast of liquid nitrogen, Blue Steel strings deliver massive tone, resonance and longevity. These babies are built to last! Try Blue Steel Stainless Steel bass strings for a brilliant punchy tone." Strings are all sealed, no need for them myself as I don't play 4 string. £25, includes UK postage.
  2. True bypass pedals (like the Mooer) are sometimes susceptible to audible pops. It happens when an audio signal is suddenly switched to a different DC voltage, and putting said audio signal through hard contact mechanical switches (like the Mooer uses, the 3PDT) also contributes. Because of this many TB pedals pop. However I also have a second hand Mooer Bass Sweeper, and it seems to pop excessively loudly compared to other TB effects - I never investigated it any further, so I'd suggest your pedal isn't a one-off.
  3. The FV-500H has a high(ish) impedance input, so you can plug a guitar straight into without loading down the signal too much - plugging a guitar straight into a low impedance input would significantly attenuate treble frequencies and possibly cause a volume drop. The FV-500L has a low impedance input, designed typically to accept the low impedance output of an effects pedal (or a keyboard for example). It also has stereo inputs and outputs. So the impedance issue is only really of relevance to it's function as a volume pedal, not an expression pedal. As far as I know both versions have the same expression pot value (B10K - the FV-500L definitely does, I have one). So if you're only ever going to use it as an expression it doesn't really matter which you go for. If you ever plan to use it as a volume pedal however, then you'd want the FV-500H if you're plugging a passive guitar/bass straight into it. The FV-500L can be used if an effect(s) is between it and your instrument, however a FV-500H can be used this way also. In this respect the FV-500H is more flexible. Personally I wouldn't plug a bass straight into a FV-500H because it's input impedance is still a bit on the low side (250K I think) - I'd have an effect/buffer first then the volume pedal. It's a good pedal build quality wise though, feels sturdy and easy to use.
  4. Replacing the input capacitor with a larger one would likely let a bit more bass through, however replacing all the coupling caps between each gain stage and the output cap also would probably be a better way of tailoring the circuit for bass guitar. There are other ways to modify it for bass, maybe changing or removing some clipping diodes. This diagram shows where they are: [url="http://www.kitrae.net/music/Images_Secret_Music_Page/BIG%20MUFF%20CIRCUIT%20GUIDEsm.jpg"]http://www.kitrae.ne...T%20GUIDEsm.jpg[/url]
  5. Any clean boost pedal would suffice. The EHX LPB-1 is one of the simplest and cheapest - it can roll of some treble with higher pitched instruments, but I'm not sure whether this occurs when used with bass guitar. If you search for 'clean boost pedal' in a search engine or eBay you'll find some other options.
  6. Any supply that has isolated grounds on each output eliminates ground hum that can occur when daisy chaining pedals - they're expensive, but if you'e got the money they can be worth it. Otherwise something like the 1spot with a daisy chain is OK, and much cheaper.
  7. If you're still interested PM me - I make them.
  8. Bought a pedal from Chris, super fast delivery and smooth transaction, deal with complete confidence.
  9. I fancy that it sounds sprightlier than any other Bazz Fuss. But I'm not at all biased...
  10. Probably too late, but using a passive ABY pedal in A or B mode between 2 instruments to 1 amp really shouldn't cause any signal degradation at all (assuming you haven't changed anything else in your set-up to accommodate it e.g. removing a buffered pedal) - it's literally just an extension of a guitar cable. Maybe the EHX is faulty?
  11. Nessy

    Patch cables

    Making your own cables is a good idea if you're willing to solder; it's pretty simple and much cheaper than buying higher quality pre-made patch cables.
  12. This thread might help, has drawings and photos (guessing you might have found it already though): http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f36/ehx-bass-micro-synth-diy-true-bypass-mod-315187/ Just a case of finding the input, output and LED cathode wires from the circuit board, then wiring them to a 3PDT switch something like this: I've got the old Micro Synth, I actually like the bypass tone so never bothered to mod it.
  13. Been playing since I was 8, might be able to help.
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