kodiakblair

Might not be a great idea to post this but here's my pal Rick with his YOB bass 🤣

Has to be 🙂

He has plenty of books out but that is the only one I've read, in two minds about the title of this one 😄

With good reason.

I'll echo what folk are saying about David and his basses; it's all true he really is a gent and the basses are great 😀 My first Retrovibes were a white Evo and a red Zygote, that was in 2014. A 5 string Vantage soon followed then it was an RV-4, next a Super - P came my way. All came nicely set up , looked great and were fun to play. As to the man himself, he's a gem 🙂 When I was hunting for certain Vintage bass, David spotted one and passed on the link. Once a Retrovibe beanie turned up unannounced, simply because David had ordered a batch/ knew I'm bald as a coot and that Scottish weather is 'changeable' 😄 The Super-P arrived with a series/parallel/tap mini switch, those weren't spec but our man knew I played T-40's and thought I'd appreciate the option 😎

Know exactly what you mean. Baby bass with a Warman Drivetrain. If your green quad coil is the one from Amazon, 17.8K DCR and 8.25H, the Drivetrain is near 2X; 28k DCR with alleged 20 H. One thing though; should you be looking for 'Mudbucker', neither will get you there 😒 Stick it up by the neck , you'd have mud 😎 Sadly not in roughly the P-bass position, I learned that after installing a 29.9k hum cancelling 51 footprint in my slab body.

It's a Peavey neck, T-40 to be precise 🙂 Been broken then repaired but seeing as it was drilled to accept the Schaller tuning pegs, it's a sound repair 👍 Timely talk of Schaller tuning pegs, was hunting through boxes over the weekend and found 3 complete sets 😄 If you decide to skip plugging holes and drilling new ones, drop me a line.

Then the matter is closed 🙂

@Chienmortbb G4M have changed hardware, those mono saddles are not the same as shown on the website or on mine. They're actually easier to string up and adjust 😎 No poking ball ends down into the gubbins when fitting strings, you just hook the ball end in place/pull straight up to the tuning peg/snip the length then wrap and tune up 🙂 To set intonation you slacken this grub screw then manually slide the saddle back/forth, tighten again when set. To set the string height you first slacken this grub screw. Then its a case of using the top 2 grub screws as per normal. If the block bottoms out yet the action is too high, you whip the block out. Place it on a flat file. And take a bit off the bottom. Doesn't matter if you get a bit fierce, the 2 vertical screws will still raise the block while the horizontal one locks it in place 👍 Added bonus with these is you can shave the sides too, that gives you some string spacing movement; I'll have a photo from doing that if it's required.

G-bass is to the right of my 5 string Grind. Basically they were Peavey's attempt to score sales away from G&L's L-1000. No Modulus connection for the G/G-V basses. My mate Ronnie was still working for Peavey then, necks were under-sized at the factory then shipped to Bell & Carlson for a carbon wrap. They had Gotoh bridges and Gotoh copy tuning pegs. Single pickup was an earlier VFL design used on the 2nd gen Forum, with a Cirrus preamp minus the blend pot. G-V was a Cirrus with bolt on carbon wrapped neck. B-Quad was the Bromberg bass. I sometimes see "bring back the B-Quad" posts on Peavey threads. Won't happen, the B-Quad is Bromberg's design and he's been quite happy having Carvin/Kiesel build them the last 15 years. B-Quads, 4 & 5 strings, did have Modulus necks. Complicated circuit on them too. Stereo/mono output, piezo/active VFL pickups. 2 band EQ for the VFLs, tone pot for the piezo. Bridge has piezo saddles, each saddle had it's own level trimpot and could be panned left or right in stereo mode. Peavey put out loads of models, hitting almost every letter of the alphabet; often think they did too many models and that's one reason why they get passed over.

Nice when things turn out like that 😃 Actually more like 3rd gen models 😮 1st Gen Grinds were active US built basses with bolt on necks. 4 string models were 34" scale length PJs while 5 strings were 35" scale JJ. A year later they were joined by bolt on BXP versions. The red 5 string is my US Grind, Black PJ my BXP. No of them were particularly good sellers so they were quickly replaced by the BXP neck through; built by InYen Vina over in Vietnam.

Appeared on the market 2004, built by Samick. I wasn't super impressed by the bubinga veneer, far right; mainly it was the gloss finish to neck and body. I'd also been spoiled by the Bubinga bolt on neck model, the black teal, tiger eye custom and the wenge/walnut 😃

Your new D'Addarios will be fine 🙂 There's not much to a twist, generally happens if you wind strings round the tuner post but the ball end is fixed in place; winding action can cause a wee twist along the length. You just slacken off the string and start again 👍

Pearloid won out in the end 🙂 On first plugging in all I seemed to get was a horrible nasally tone, switched to tapes hoping it would help; it didn't 🤬 If I had hair it would have been in my hands, luckily tugging on the beard is painful so I looked at settings instead 😄 First thing was set the Bass/Treble on the Artec preamp to detent and turn the gain trimpot down; this improved things. At the amp I went with a fair bit of bass boost highs and mids were also boosted but to a lesser degree. A wee sweeten with the Artec pre and all was well 👍 Here it is next to this afternoon's creation, the red Telecaster jazz bass 😎 Sharp eyes will spot a different neck. The 51 shaped one was a much better fit on the red body so the piezo got a spare PB-50 neck, a reshape is on the cards soon 👍

Aye, you're right; it's well within the magnetic field. Could be the G got twisted when stringing up, fairly common mishap.