stevemaiden

Hmm!, thinking that way myself now Andy - I already have a modded Squire & it's excellent - may aquire said bridge & ferrules & I do have a drill!

Actually £304.00 (thanks 3below) for a what if - hence question anyone has experienced them! Squires Vintage Modified V made in China are currently around £301.00 and are very good value (I like the black block inlays on these) If the build quality is as good, you also get through body stringing & preamp?

Anyone know anything about these?!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jazz-Bass-9V-Battery-active-pickups-w-Electric-Guitar-/161601993884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25a03abc9c If it's anything like Squire quality it could be good! What would the import charges be? Through body stringing, looks like Squire tuners - even a dodgy Fender decal & embossing on neckplate!

I've found foam packing an excellent damping for cabs - my son's work has lots of surplus packing foam from computer components boxes & some come in useful sizes. I attach it with spray adhesive (£4.99 @ B&Q) & find the black "egg box" shape particularly effective (installed in TE 4x10 & Roland bass combo). HNY!

Nice! - I've just acquired an AH400 SMX but it's covered in rat fur :-( Prefer the tolex like my AH 250. Yet to crank it up in rehearsal (Sunday). How much did you get yours for? Incredibly heavy heads, BUT sooo good ;-)

Hi V4, the I'm running at 9 on input gain to get the amber light to flicker - even when when slapping! Finger playing barely gets the amber to light! - this is without graphic, just the pre-shape set to classic Trace (setting 1). The amp sounds good tho, a good purchase for £230.

Hi & thanks for the replies. Subthumper, I see after V4's comment that I have no need of the switches!! It seems in my haste to clean & "sort" the amp I have mis-diagnosed - the graphic & pre-shape are indeed "momentary" switches with LED's & do not require the metal prong thingy to function! After re-stripping the amp & swapping back the metal prong thingies & testing the amp - it works fine!! The input level does seem low tho' - & this is with 2 passive basses & probably may be the LED's as the amp does sound great!

Hi, there's 2 switches us due to lack of the metal prong thingy - the prong just clicks into a hole to keep the switch body in when pressed - clicks out when pressed again - cycling the switch on & off. I've visually checked the rest of the amp & blown off all the accumulated dust internally, which wasn't to bad. The amp seems to date from 1990/91 going by an inspection signature - it actually sounds great - I'm just concerned the input gain level being so low may point to a fault?

[attachment=178844:TE switch.jpg]Hi, I'd appreciate any help pointing me at a UK supplier for this switch unit used in my recently acquired (yesterday) AH400smx. Model #: 73-SWT-F2UEE I found that the pre-shape & the graphic eq switches didn't click in - upon examination of the switches I discovered the tiny U shaped metal "prongs" - see arrow in pic - were missing from the offending switches. As a quick solution I've pulled out the prongs from the DI earth switch & the passive active input switches & put them in the switches I want to work - I use passive bass & don't envisage using DI earth at any point in the near future. If I can source a couple of replacement switches I can simply swap out the prongs to save de-soldering & re-soldering new units & have a fully functioning set of switch units! As a secondary question the input from both my passive basses (Fender Jazz V's) struggle to make the input gain light even the green LED - they are OK on my AH 250, so it seems to point to the preamp in the AH400. Does this point to a problem with the AH400 preamp??

GP11 preamp circuit is included in this schematic : [url="http://music-electronics-forum.com/attachments/27361d1391726117-trace-elliot_gp11-ah350-ah500-mk-v-bass.pdf"]trace-elliot_GP11-AH350-AH500-MK-V-BASS.pdf[/url]

Great thread idea - 3 links that don't work tho' are: http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/basses.php/ [url="http://www.bassguitarpartsdirect.co.uk/"]http://www.bassguita...tsdirect.co.uk/[/url] [color=#555555][font=Helvetica] [u][url="http://www.rane.com/pdf/ranenotes/Sound%20System%20Interconnection.pdf"]http://www.rane.com/pdf/ranenotes/Sound%20...rconnection.pdf[/url][/u][/font][/color]

Hi Qlank, the nut end is a thick alloy plate fashioned from a scrap tripod head plate, with holes in it for the string to pass through. The tail-end of the strings wind onto the bridge end (after some trimming) - not as sophisticated as the Steinberger tuning system, but it does work & it stays in tune! I've seen the Thoman bridges, but they don't do a 5 string & the 4 string are a bit pricey at £130.00. China will knock out something eventually for the £50.00 mark.

Looks genuine to me too - the MiM fenders are basically Squires with a factory fitted fender decal after all!

Hi, does anyone know where I can get a reasonably priced headless bass bridge & nut? - i.e. around the £50 squid mark - I'm thinking China - there's some 4 string ones available, but I can't find a five bridge. I've seen the German & American stuff - the American isn't cheap (£200.00+) & then the additional duty will push the cost up further! I have a doner 5 string bass ready to hack up - £45 off fleaBay - it's nice, but would be better headless :-) Here's a four string I did a couple of months ago - the bridge was ultra cheap on fleaBay - £13.00! The bass balances really well now! btw anyone know what make the bridge is? it's not as sophisticated as the Steinberger system. Before, after & during shots: [attachment=175068:IMG_2807.jpg] [attachment=175069:IMG_2847.jpg] [attachment=175070:IMG_2810.jpg] [attachment=175071:IMG_2811.jpg] [attachment=175072:IMG_2845.jpg] [attachment=175073:IMG_2851.jpg] [attachment=175074:IMG_2829.jpg] [attachment=175075:IMG_2827.jpg] [attachment=175076:IMG_2834.jpg]