PriZeMaN

Hello #1 : 15mm is ample and I'm sure that the ETS screws do not compromise the integrity. The dowel was less than 1mm recessed and now has a decent wood filler that is mirror flat and doesn't compromise anything. #2 It's glass smooth and flat...end of. Come and feel the bass in person, I can guarantee it. #3 Of couse I've ruined the original finish..IT NEEDS TO BE REPAINTED, what are you not understanding, have you even read the original advert? #4 That whole section is a tight and precise basswood shelf and is nothing what you have mentioned. The old fixings from the original plate are wide set with brass inserts and needed to be pilot drilled out and then plugged and filled, which I have done smooth as silk. Only holes left are the scratch plate ones that I've left in case the new owner wants them. I put in a strap button the other day, it took me minutes, thanks for your observation but it really doesn't matter. #5 See #3 The wood is super flat and yes the paint is fractured making the edge look wobbly but it's not! The only thing that's awful is your incorrect opinions. Put down the keyboard and pick up your bass, you can never go wrong with tapping on a bass. LOVE...PriZeMaN

The unfinished parts, the partially rubbed down area around the bridge, the messy filling of the machine head hole, the poorly filled machine head screw holes, the bad sanding???? All the filling is glass level, what are you chatting about, seriously dude what are you talking about?? The routing is set square level, it's just the poly paint that has randomly fractured from machining. You literally are making stuff up on the fly, who are you... Dr.Fauci?

OooooH the tuning knob screws not the headplate set screws, I misunderstood. Yes they have all been evened up now as I hadn't finished with the intontation before I took the photos.

Ha haha I fell in 😜 The head angle matches the horns but if the new owner wanted it removed I would be able to do this no problem. It's poly paint so the whole bass would need to be stripped which is usually done by heatgun. This should be carried out professionally by the painter and not attempted by myself or anyone that doesn't know 100% what they are doing. I apprecciated that you would be interested in seeing your preferred changes but unless you actually part with the cash, I'm afraid that's not gonna happen All the best dude, remember to play your bass on Christmas day...LOUD! hahah

It may look like the edge is not flat but poly paint is thick on the bongo and the lacquer is really thick (they really did a good job) so if I didn't want the paint to fracture and chip I would have had to score it real deep and being on a curve of the body I wasn't willing to sacrifice any wood damage from over scoring knowing that inevitably the whole bass would need to be striped and repainted. It does look wibbly wobbly but I can assure you that it's literally the illusion of the random chipping on the paint. Rather than just leave the sharp fractured paint edges from the machining, I lightly sanded them but I can assure you that the wood is straight. Lemmywinks' statement of: The execution is poor though - bare wood, odd shaping choices and wonky lines all over the place. Is unjustified and NEGATIVE! The execution is not poor. The bare wood is clearly justified in my description knowing that the poly paint has to be COMPLETELY stripped for the new owner. The bass is kept indoors in a case not in my shed and in need of priming! By priming it, I am just creating more work for the painter to re-strip AND by painting it the potential buyer cannot CLEARLY see the modifications that I have made. It's impossible to match metallic poly paint so that's out of the window too. My line choices are subjective and in my opininion carefully thought out, ODD means not the norm, suggesting that Lemmywinks thinks his choices would be more appealing to the masses. The head cut matches the body horns and the rear cut matches the flow of the hardware and you can't start making extreme angles in this area because there is the straplock placement to consider. The strap now sits in the lowest possible postion because of minimum cutaway and it is nicely balanced. Sorry for the lengthy explanation but there are a few fellow bassists throwing out incorrect statements on this thread instead of just opinions. I LOVE everyone on this thread regardless of their opinions, we are all fellow bassists playing through the game of life!

Ok fair doos I missed out a t and an apostrophe in my haste but I think we both need to work on our grammar. It's 'there' NOT their 😜

I think is your eyes that are wonky my friend.

Thanks dude, that was a nice reply and...no moaning

Seriously??? If it was a lemon then who in their right mind unless they were Jim Carrey from Liar Liar would include that in the description? I'm guessing that because this is a very unique modification that any potential buyer would want to view the bass in detail and play it rather than just have it posted. It plays the same as when it was original and all the mods have been carried out with precision and care. I like taking on weird and wonderful projects, that's the kind of guy I am. I don't wish to waste my time or risk pissing off a fellow brother/sister bass player who may travel miles and miles to buy a serious bit of kit for them to be hugely dissapointed with a lemon. This will be evident to a collector that is interested when they see and play the glory of the HEADLESS BONGO

The set screws in the locking clamp use shallower gauges to allow for the obvious thickness of the strings. I see you're another party member of the 'Trim the strings brigade'...I'll throw in a pair of Knipex wire cutters if you buy it 😜