MartinB

You want the centre line of the MM pickup to be in the region of 30 1/2" to 30 5/8" from the nut

☝️ Press each string down on either side of the nut as well, so that it doesn't curve like a banana over the top. Reduces your chance of weird chorus-y noises. Same thing at the saddles too.

If he knew how to play, he wouldn't need to go to the school

300 Hz here - there's a wide range around there that all sounds good, so I just went for the round number

https://reverb.com/news/the-golden-age-of-the-ampeg-b-15-1960-1980

You were only a couple of weeks out 😄

Is it wide from edge to edge, or thick from front to back - or both 😬? I've been keeping an eye out for one of these basses, as it's of the few headless designs that doesn't look completely weird to me, but if it's anything like a full Precision-width nut then I will think again.

Is that 48cm at the longest point, i.e. down the middle of the surfboard? A 43 x 29 blank like this would give you 51cm corner-to-corner.

You just mean moving the loudest (serial) position to one end of the switch, right? So that when flicking between settings, you don't have to go "across" the loudest one.

The price of those adapters was already something of a joke. I use strips of veneer to reduce the hole size, same as @neepheid and Gerry Hayes. These are worth considering as a Hipshot alternative:

How about some radioactive side dots? https://www.reidtimber.co.uk/edc/luminous-tritium-side-dot-markers

Another vote for TC Electronic Spark Booster - the budget king of this sort of thing

Covers on a Precision look cool, and I never found that they got in the way - I just don't currently have a suitable bass to put them on. I can imagine the Jazz ones could be annoying due to the much larger footprint of the bridge cover though.

In the bits box, screws attached with masking tape