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Reverend

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  • Birthday 05/08/1981

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  1. Just thought I'd chime in to a class-D thread and say the word 'heft' a lot. Thanks.
  2. I have this set up (SC and SM). I use it with a GK MB500. Super clean, super flat and super loud. Not much 'vibe' (intentional), so I use an EBS valve drive as a pre-amp, and that's my tone sorted. It's the closest I've got to a rig sounding like the PA does, so I'm confident that I won't get too many nasty surprises when the DI comes back through the monitors. Nothing worse than your all valve beast rig sitting up on stage and knowing that no-one will ever hear it (and no, you can't always insist that the sound person mics it up. That's a luxury bonus if they've got time :-) It's certainly the most useful rig I've ever had.
  3. I got my entire bass rig and pedal board back to scouring the cash converters web site for months. One of the pedals popped up and when I went to the store, everything else was there too. But this was a couple of months after it was all stolen. So keep the faith! It may turn up :-)
  4. Nope, you're right, I was merely using the PA comparison to prove a point - my beef is that people seem to be worried about Class D as a concept, but in reality there are other factors which are just as important which seem to be holding some of these products back - especially at the lower end of the price point spectrum.
  5. Seeing as almost all of the major players in live sound reinforcement are producing insanely powerful and efficient Class D solutions now (look at the d&b web site - everything is class D), I think a lot of people are spouting a little bit of misinformed prejudice against Class D amplifiers. There's a whole lot more to a bass amp than just the power amp section - the preamp design, the EQ, the power supply etc. All of these things are important, and if all of these are designed well there's no reason why a Class D can't perform as well as a class A/B. I really think people are having rose tinted... er... ear syndrome when it comes to the amps of yesteryear. A few years ago not a single person was extolling the virtues of their 'trusy Trace AH600SMX'. Now it seems that because of all this new Class D muck, they and other A/Bs are suddenly the greatest amp ever designed. Remember what you are comparing - lots of people are comparing say the GK MB500 - a £450 amp against top of the range Trace gear from the 90s which cost £1K plus, with the best quality pre-amps, power sections and PSUs that money could buy. Hardly a fair comparison! If you whack your bass through a nice pre-amp into one of the new top of the range Crown or d&b Class Ds power amps, I hardly think you are going to be 'lacking heft'. They are ridiculously good!
  6. Well... horses for courses :-) Funny, I went to a rehearsal last night, and to my dismay they had a big old Ampeg stack - I've literally never gotten a sound I like out of an Ampeg rig - all low mids and muddy rubbish. Turned it on, and lo and behold it sounded absolutely great! Really well defined, bags of power, loved it. Was just about to change my opinion of these amps, and then noticed it was an SVT-200T - a solid state one. Couldn't believe how much better this sounded to me than all the valve SVTs I've had to play through at every festival where they just get one in as standard. Obviously, everyone else isn't wrong - it's just weird how much I don't get on with Ampeg valve heads. Other valve heads, no issues. I remember using a Marshall VBA stack at a gig and nearly soiling myself with joy. I remember a massive all valve silver Fender Bassman rig that blew my mind. Anyway, screw these valve heads these days. They're not designed for human beings to lift. Will stick to my GK MB500. Try before you buy, yo!
  7. Hi, you may or may not have seen my long winded post recently about having my BF Compact and Super Midget cabs stolen before Xmas, and then having got them both back. Well, in the interim, I bought a BF Super Compact, and as the SC pairs up with the recovered SM so well, I'm going to have to let the lovely Compact (15") go, I just don't have the space It's a great cab with a slightly more old school tone to the newer Barefaced stuff. Still sounds really well balanced, in fact I could think of few better cabs to pair up with a P-Bass. And obviously it's a Barefaced so the big deal is that it's LIGHT and it's LOOUUD! I had the usual hassle with the rubber feet falling off so I've used some t-nuts to get those suckers in nice and tight. An example of my handiwork can be seen on the attached pics. All feet still present, and even the handle isn't in too bad condition! I'm after £350 which seems to be the going rate on here. I'm based in Vauxhall in London - collection preferred, but could come to a meet up arrangement if you're desperate! Don't really want to post it. PM me if you want it! Pics can be found [url="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4ol7cvfkaa17yg7/AAD8oNyuYiLD30JdHZkr6Pfaa?dl=0"]here[/url]. All the best!
  8. Big tip - before you start your set, check if there's a tweeter on their cab, and turn it off. This is realistically the only thing you will likely blow up. Speakers in bass cabs can take a LOT of stick before they die. If you can't turn that off, you maybe want to check you don't rag the input of the amp too hard as it could generate nasty distortion (often not the nice valvey type) which is often the thing that kills tweeters. Lots of amps have 'clip lights' to show when they are starting to max out on the input stage. Turn down the input gain to avoid this. Class D amps usually distort horribly when you overload the inputs and could deffo kill a tweeter. You'll probably be able to hear I've never understood this whole 'never let anyone else use your gear' thing. Honestly, I've done hundreds of gigs with shared backline and never once seen a bass speaker blown up. If there's one thing I utterly loathe it's the guy in the second support act who rocks up with his massive SVT rig and insists he uses it for his set but will not help save time in changeovers by letting other people use it. Consequently it takes ages to change over and everyone after him gets a shorter set time. Obviously it's his cab so his decision, but seriously?
  9. There's gotta be a catch! Why you selling? :-)
  10. I've got both and usually use them as a pair. The main differences: The Super Compact goes slightly deeper and is a little larger. The Super Midget has a tweeter and is a little smaller :-) The good thing is that the Super Compact is no longer devoid of top end like it's predecessor was. Still sounds like a pretty full range cab. The previous gen Compact and Midget were VERY different sounding speakers, these two are pretty similar apart from the things I've noted above. I'd say that for everything apart from maybe a bit of slap bass (shudder) you'd maybe be better off with the Super Compact, as it's a slightly bigger sounding cab on it's own. If you like to pretend you're still in the early nineties and really must have that tweeter, or you're getting to rehearsals on your bike, maybe go for the Super Midget. Both are great. Hope this helps.
  11. Don't worry about not being able to get the sound. Those BB2 cabs are designed to be a flat as possible, so you can get whatever sound you want, rather than lending themselves to a particular sound. If you want scooped, I think they'll be just fine. I've gigged a Super Compact with a Super Midget (same drivers as the BB2) and there's plenty of bottom end there and loads of click if you want to dial it in. The BB2 is designed to have even more bottom than both of those cabs, so a pair of them will be pretty ridiculous I reckon :-)
  12. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]What I do know is that proper DSP is so much more than "just a little more top end". [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Well, yeah, you're right. Believe me I know what proper DSP in speaker management looks like - as part of work I deal with the line up of professional cinema mixing environments - there's some very clever stuff going on. It's all good. [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I just question the need for it in a simple bass amplifier. I'm pretty sure I've never felt like I've really felt the need for a high resolution digital equaliser or loudspeaker management system on any gig I've ever done, small or large.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Being relatively poor, I realise I am not the target market for this amp, as I 'only' own two cabs, one of which I dial in "a little more top end" for. And it works great ;-)[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Anyway, I don't doubt that it'll be a killer amp regardless of cost. They seem to make well regarded stuff.[/font][/color]
  13. Hmm, I have no problem with DSP per se. As the above poster says, almost all big PA systems use it nowadays for insanely complex crossover/room equalisation purposes, and almost all recording and mixing is done using it too, so it's definitely a useful thing, and I'm not an 'analog sounds better' guy. I just sorta think, well... why? In a small bass amp? Is this just convincing people they need something? USB port! Different settings for different cabs!! Wow. you mean, like, 'a bit more treble for this one'. I'm pretty sure people have always managed ok, and how many people are going to be using a small amp like this with loads and loads of different cabs anyway? Is this a problem that really needs solving? I'm sure it'll be really good and of great quality, but I reckon it's just a way to charge more for something which actually costs less to manufacture. I also really hope they don't introduce any kind of 'classic amp/speaker emulation' into the mix with this either. That'll just completely cheapen the product. I'm honestly getting less and less arsed about 'how my amp sounds' as I grow older. No one in the crowd will ever hear it! I think it looks like my Marantz PM4000 amp actually. It's that brushed metal finish :-)
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