absentmindeduk

<------- I have a 102p traveler and a 151p traveler. Awesome sound with the mesa head, I really don't think it lacks bottom - if anything I need to cut the bottom a bit! They wouldn't have been my first choice of cab - I got them following 2 operations for damage I did to myself from Ampegs!! But having said Im really glad I got them now! Really nice balanced sound overall, defined and clear... I can't compare to the STD 151 cos I haven't tried one, but if theres any specifics yoou want to know gimmie a shout!

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1213737' date='Apr 28 2011, 12:29 PM']Had this with a gotoh, the bridge didn't go low enough for a decent action, answer is to go back to the BBOT (bent bit of tin, quaint euphemism for old style fender bridges) or route a hole to drop the BA into.[/quote] Thanks man, reakon that might be the case. Routing it would be a mare tho! LOL at BBOT!

[quote name='KiOgon' post='1212889' date='Apr 27 2011, 05:25 PM']That may not help Have you checked string height at the nut? Or to put it another way is the nut slotted 'right' for your neck & strings? EZ test - hold down each string 1 at a time at 2nd fret - then tap each string onto 1st fret, there should be only a very small clearance = a fag paper between the 1st fret & string. If strings are too high at the nut you'll be struggling down the rest of the neck. Cheerz, John[/quote] @ KiOgon: Yea, the nut seems fine IMO. I had to fit it as the old one cracked.. Made sure at the time it was filed to the same height as the one that came off. @Lozz196: Yes, when I bought it, there wasnt a badass that had pre-cut grooves (Ive had the bridge for years), I never filed grooves in it and left it as was. They now naturally have worn a bit of a groove, but not much. Looking at the original bridge, it is slightly lower for the E and G strings, middle 2 are fine. All of the bridge saddles are as low as they go too at present. Intonation was set only. I think from here the way to go is to adjusting the truss rod and maybe filing grooves into the bridge (Im not overly keen on that, cos Ill prob tool it up!). -Still even when thats done, I reakon I wont be able to move the saddle height much cos its taller than the BBOT (I assume that is the old bridge, though I dunno what BBOT stands for?) lol. Thanks guys,

[quote name='EskimoBassist' post='1212440' date='Apr 27 2011, 11:27 AM']The Bass Big Muff is a very good pedal, especially for the price. The ODB-3 is an interesting one; gets a lot of bashing but there are some things that it can do VERY WELL. It has a very good clean blend and thanks to a powerful 2 band eq it can ADD low-end, a strange phenomenon where dirt pedals are concerned. I used one almost exclusively for my overdrive sound for over 2 years and it served me faithfully, in fact I still get it out for some studio stuff. Set with the blend on the dry side and the gain on the low side you'll get a nice sound, but that doesn't mean I don't prefer my Fulltone Bass Drive, which now sits pride of place on my board instead.[/quote] I must say, I had an ODB-3 and it just didnt do it for me... I got shot of it on EBay in the end. Used with an active bass, I found it just added an unusable 'crackly' sort of sound to the top rather than a nice fuzz. I'd go for the Muff if those are the 2 choices. Thought I haven't had a go, Ive heard a lot of good things about the Sansamp Bass Drivers... Worth a shout, though they're a bit on the expensive side! Andy,

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='1212713' date='Apr 27 2011, 03:14 PM']In my experience a Badass (or similar) is great on a Jazz bass - but sucks all the punch out of a Precision. I'd put the BBOT back on. YMMV! [/quote] @Jean-Luc: I did it because something had to be done; in comparasin with my US Jazz, this bass sounds and feels horrible! -I thought a few tweaks might help, but think Ive done the opposite at present! :S I swapped the nut for a Tusq-nut, the pic guard from a white one, fender-schaller locking end pins and the badass as well. I'd considered hitting it with a Bartollini passive too... but I'd loathe to spend another £100 on it!

[quote name='neilb' post='1212683' date='Apr 27 2011, 02:40 PM']Please explain "pants"???[/quote] @Neil: I thought 'pants' was pretty technical... lol. See this pic; [attachment=78495:PIC_0619.JPG] When I leave the instrument alone, I can comfortably fit 2 stacked 1p coins under the string at the 12th, making it horrible to play anything at the top of the neck. By my reakoning, thats an action of 3mm or 0.125" at the 12th unfretted. @Matt: When you say; Using an imperial ruler, measure distance between bottom of strings and top of the 17th fret. Do you mean like this: [attachment=78497:PIC_0620.JPG] If so, by my reakoning thats 16.1875", yet the string height there is slightly over 0.125", you think it should be approx 0.078 - 0.093? Also, a capo? Sacreligious! I play the bass! lol. -Can't check 8th fret without one (or another pair of hands), so will have to do that later... @Ou7shined: That link looks pretty good, cheers man! @KiOgon: How do you find the MiM compares to the US ones? IMO, my MiM P is rubbish compared to my US Jazz; Im hoping it's just cos Ive trashed it tho... :S Thanks all, Andy

Hey guys, wondered if anyone may be able to offer a bit of help... I fitted a Leo Quan II Badass bridge to my MIM PBass about a year ago, truth be told, its not been right since. I just use this bass as a backup, so it hasn't been a massive issue, but it plays pants. Im no whizz with setups etc and have had a tech do them all in the past, but money constrains mean Im going to have to learn! lol. One thing I have noticed is that it says here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193&st=0"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193&st=0[/url] that it is a simple straight swap for the new bridge (which it was in terms of screwing it in) and the string length bridge saddle to nut is the same, but the total length of the bridge is longer, so the string end-to-end is now approx 1.5cm longer - which is whats caused my neck to bow I suppose?? Also, I didnt bother to file any grooves into the bridge saddles, though they have made a bit of a groove on their own now as they've been on a while. Question is really, when it comes to adjusting the truss-rod to see if I can get the action down a bit (it's terrible at the top to the neck), does anyone know what sort of measurements I should be looking at around the 12th? The guitarist in my band does his guitars and suggested fr a guitar he usually just holds the 6th and 1st srings down (separately) at the first and the highest fret and there should be a tiny gap around the 8th.. Has anyone else had the same issue and can offer any pearls of wisdom? Just to make my thread more pretty, Ill give you a piccy too.... ;-) [attachment=78494:PIC_0618.JPG] Thanks all, Andy

I used to own a US Ampeg SVT 410 HE. It was killer. IMO the ceramics in that packed a 'thump' to the lows that my Markbass cabs just dont (despite costing twice the amount)! I sold my 410 HE about 10 months ago for £325. So defo worth considering - a killer price if you can get a second hand one. A word of warning however, I had to sell mine as it put me in hospital owing to a hernia operation. -Dont be fooled, this is a HEAVY cab. If you have to lift on your own, be careful!! -Make sure you can get it fitted with castors too! Hope that helps, Andy.

[quote name='Skywalker83' post='775628' date='Mar 15 2010, 08:15 PM']So i've Finally decided to go for the Ampeg Micro VT amp and 2 x10 Cab, but since i'm now living in Finland and i refuse to pay the stupidly high priced they have over here for gear i'm looking for alternative means of getting one of these. So can anyone recommend a good online sourse for buying Ampeg stuff?[/quote] [url="http://www.soundslive.co.uk"]http://www.soundslive.co.uk[/url] Dunno if they ship abroad etc, but Ive dealt with them in the past for a number of items. The guy who owns the store is a real stand up bloke.

[quote name='The Burpster' post='773437' date='Mar 13 2010, 10:15 AM']std= Nescafe 12AX7SP = Columbian ground coffee from a cafetiere.[/quote] :-D I do drink coffee and black is the way! lol. [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='773766' date='Mar 13 2010, 05:55 PM']If you want more headroom & decent tone, you could try a 5751 (70% gain compared to an ECC83) in the V1 and an ECC83 in V2. The ECC83 & the 12AX7's are theoretically the same, but the European-built ECC83's seem to have a mids-bump whereas the 12AX7's are pretty flat. G.[/quote] I had a look at the link, some of this boggles my head! lol. Thanks for the info though! So the general consensus is JJ's are good, 12AX7SP, Mullard's def worth a look... Prob stay away from groovetubes?

Yea, I did spy the Mesa 12AX7SP valves too...

Thanks a lot guys, that defo helps. I didn't know that Mesa just re-brand them, I might just go for the stock replacements... :-)

[quote name='Hamster' post='771542' date='Mar 11 2010, 01:03 PM']The choice of valve can effect the sound, and so you can choose what you want. A Sovtek 12AX7WB is warmer with more gain, while a JJ ECC83S has less gain but a bit more sparkle and imho colours the sound less. I tried both of these in an Eden head as preamp valves and that's what my ears heard.[/quote] So would I have to swap them both for a 'matched pair' (if such exists for 12AX7's) or can I swap them individually? Short of buying like 3-4 different kinds of valve, theres no way I can test them really, which puts me off a little...

Hello all! So I've just absolutley skinted myself as a result of grabbing a bargain on a Mesa Boogie M-Pulse 600 head. The guy I bought it off has had it for 3 years and never replaced the tubes. It takes 2x 12AX7's in the preamp stage and the power amp is all mosfet as far as Im aware. Although tonally it seems OK, I reakon there might be quite a bit of difference if I replace the tubes? Right? He provided me with 1 spare unused mesa 12AX7 which I'm kind of looking to keep as a spare in case one knackers at a gig. The stock mesa replacements are available for about £14 a peice. However, I'm aware that there are a multitude of makes available, is there any real noticable advantage in picking something else? Has anyone else done similar and have any thoughts?