stevie

It looks like that driver comes with its own gasket already fitted. So, you won't need any foam. I wish other driver manufacturers would do this.

I seem to have made things more complicated than necessary by mentioning using foam gasket to seal the back panel. Please ignore, and glue the back panel in. I'd still suggest using screws to ensure that the panel is firmly glued to the battens. If you drive the screws below the surface, you can fill the holes with wood filler and sand.

If you buy white, you should be able to make whatever colour you want with some acrylic colourant. I've done this myself with colourant from Polyvine. I've never tried tinting white - so I've no idea how much you'd need. To get a good textured finish, you'll need the special foam rollers from Blue Aran. They're not the same as the ones you can buy in DIY stores - the foam is much coarser. You can buy them from Ali Express but I haven't seen them anywhere else. If anyone knows another source, that would be useful. If you can recess the input panel, you'll achieve a better seal - and it will also look better - but surface mounting works also. Don't for goodness sakes mess about with sealant. Use adhesive foam strip. 2mm thickness is about right. I'd use screws on the rear panel. Plenty of them. I'm assuming you're gluing the panel in, but do use foam gasket otherwise. Fixing the speaker with T-nuts and bolts (likely M4 or 5) is the preferred method, but woodscrews should work on this size of speaker. If the Fane is already gasketed (which is unusual), you won't need to add any more. If you really need silicone sealant, you haven't built the cab properly. Unless you have a good (i.e. expensive) crimp tool and the correct crimps (there are different specifications), solder the terminals. It's fine. You don't normally need removable panels to access the inside of the cab, as you should be able to gain access through the hole in the baffle for the driver. By all means, make the panels removeable for testing, but once you're happy with the cab, I'd glue them in. Sealant has no place in a speaker cabinet!

Blue Aran hasn't had any black Tuffcab for months. Your best bet is to get a litre tin of Armacab from Penn Elcom. It's very similar to Tuffcab but thicker in consistency and with a higher pigment content. It'll cost £27 delivered. To get a decent finish, you'll need the foam rollers from Blue Aran. Unfortunately, they're out of stock of those as well but they're due in mid-December according to the website. In current weather conditions, it'll take some time to dry. So, leave each coat to dry overnight - and don't allow the paint to freeze, as it will then be useless.

You're welcome, @basexperience. Here are a couple more.

This was another great Bass Bash. So, thanks to the organisers for their hard work and efforts. The venue was much better than I was expecting. With two decent-sized rooms and a stage, it was possible to make some noise without annoying everyone too much. There were plenty of familiar faces - some of whom also attended the SW Bash - together with some new ones and some members I have talked to over the years but previously never met. Put my name down for next year.

I couldn't not include a photo of some LFSys cabs, could I? Pleasingly, there were quite a few present. My thanks to the owners for bringing them along. I managed to try a few different amps through the cabs. Sean's Gallien-Krueger sounded nice, lean and punchy. I was also very impressed with the Handbox head that @wateroftyne has been praising all these years. Never heard one before, but is sounded really sweet.

This should be a caption competition photo. Gary @cetera saying something to Chris Childs (or vice versa).

Matt @neepheid demoing one of the many fine basses he brought with him. Not quite sure what this one is, but I'm sure somebody knows.

The Pedals 'R Us corner.

During a break in the proceedings, Andy @Wolverinebass tucks into some chocolate cake while @Sean enjoys a coffee.

@Chimike testing his Ampeg 12-watter through an LFSys Goodwood. "Not loud enough" was the verdict.

Chris Childs trying out @rwillett's printed headless bass through a Monaco stack - watched closely by Mike Brooks. Look out for a video review of the LFSys Monaco and Goodwood on Mike's excellent YouTube channel Brooksy's Bass Corner. It should be out any time now (he doesn't hang about).

A couple of bass players chewing the cud.

Nick trying out a relic'd G&L, which attracted some interest.