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Morning Has anyone got experience of Retrovibe basses, specifically the T30? They look very nice and on the only YouTube video l could find it sounded nice. It would be nice to have some first hand information if possible. I'm having to go short scale because of a worn thumb knuckle problem and this bass looks really nice and a bit different. Thanks Mike

Next gig for me is with In Isolation at Ivory Blacks in Glasgow on Saturday 18th May, supporting Joy Division tribute band "Shadowplay".

Well new one arrived and there is a slight hum but I kind of expect that from a valve amp but much quieter. Also, I don't know if this is significant, but the first one I had, I had to turn the volume down on my old Stingray to get a clean tone now volume up full it's clean, as in valve type clean but not overdriven.

Is that like that clear nano gel tape? If so I bought some recently at The Range...

I have a Les Paul style short scale Retrovibe. If I remember, it was a one of, put together to try out the style. I think David does this every now and again. I love it. It has a chunky neck and is fitted with their hi-gain RIC style pick ups which gives it a fantastic sound with roundwounds fitted. (Apologies for it looking rather grubby, but I have been playing it recently and it does need a clean!)

That looks pretty damn amazing! But I won't get it at that price.

Morning Has anyone got experience of Retrovibe basses, specifically the T30? They look very nice and on the only YouTube video l could find it sounded nice. It would be nice to have some first hand information if possible. I'm having to go short scale because of a worn thumb knuckle problem and this bass looks really nice and a bit different. Thanks Mike

Some sound advice here but let’s look at the real world. 1. You should never use 6.35 plugs (1/4”) for speakers,,,,, but some amps and speakers have them so… use the best you can and NEVER and instrument cable. 2. SpeakON 4 way connectors are close to a standard but on cables a 2 way works fine. It mates with a 4 way socket on +1 & -1. You cannot use a 4 way plug into a 2 way socket. 3 Cables.. You can use mains flex as long as the current rating is OK for your rig. The problem is it is not very flexible. 4.Speaker cable is more flexible and more suited to stage use. You do not need 4mm cable unless you are doing high powered PA speakers over long distances. They are a pain to use in the old Neutrik speakons and way over specified for bass rigs. 5. Although Neutrik are the industry standard, both Cliff and Amphenol make fine Speakon compatible connectors. Switchcraft may also but they are not common in the UK. 6. As a general rule I use 20 amperes as the maximum current (amperage is NOT a word) that 2.5mm cable can carry and 16 amperes as the max a 1.5mm flex can carry. Although commercial flex may be rated higher, that does not account for the losses in the cables. For bass rigs this may be negligible when using a 50cm to 1m cable but PA cables are much longer and the losses add up. 7. So a 2.5mm copper cable, In my opinion, is good for in excess of 3000 watts continuous at 8 ohms. For 4 ohm use you must halve that rating to 15-1600 watts. For 1.5 mm cable, the figures are 1800 watts at 8 ohms and about 900 into 4 ohms. For longer runs I would debate those figures. Conclusion, 4mm cable is overkill for a bass rig. 2.5 and 1.5 are more than enough but buy a reputable make. Some cheap cables are CCAW or copper covered aluminium wire. It is rubbish.

I’m looking for my first ever Grey Stache, hopefully to try and buy it back. It’s an early Kid Paint over a tall yellow enclosure and I believe it was sold on here: Drop me a PM if you have it, even if you’re not looking to sell. Cheers Si

Christ, always lusted after one of these...

Mine is 16mm by 20 mm, but looks like room to fit a 25 mm. £9.99 handling charge ,comes to nearly 14 quid 🤣

I’m in the ‘early’ stages of rediscovering bass having had a cheap knock-of eb3 copy that I purchased (and gigged) for £60 about 30 years ago. In due course I moved onto guitar and bass fell by the wayside until I picked up a lovely precision bass a couple of years ago. Something wasn’t quite the same and I have gradually pieced together that as good as the precision is, it’s long scale. Since then a Hofner ignition Beatles bass has been added which is fantastic for the price, and then in the past few weeks a Vox VBW3000 (Bill Wyman) bass has turned up. Since it’s arrived I have played little else, though I do need to get a set of flat rounds on there for that authentic mid-60s sound.

Yes, those are the main merits. It’s a bit disappointing to hear that the finish isn’t that well executed, given how much Sereks sell for and I think the looks are a bit marmite. However, if it plays well and sounds good the rest is superficial.

Looking at the video, if it's not possible to make the back and front joint up, then I wouldn't both with the back at all. Leave it plain white and maybe extend the checks from the front a bit further around the sides.

I’m also a big fan of DaVinci Resolve. I brought it when i was doing our demos last year, and while i started off in FCP i found DR so much easier to use. I do have it on my iPad Pro as well but that’s a 2020 iPad so hasn’t got an M chip in it. What with that and the new features in LP on iPad needing an M chip i guess tomorrow I’ll be right up to date 😀.

The absolute WORST way of doing this is to get a body painted white and stick some Electrician Blac Tape cutted in squares. Don't laugh, I bought a P-BAss that had a Pickguard made this way. Although, come to think of it that's how Eddie VanHalen decored his geetars. Otherwise, you'll need to have a good base coat, then a white paint. and afterwards, you'll have to use a *lot* of masking tape, spray black, waith for it to dry, then use a lot of masking tape for the second part and paint black. As showed on the video above, y'oull also need to cover the sides as it'll be difficult to align everything properly. So you're talking about a rather long process. You might find some 3M covering that might do the job, although not too easy to apply on the curved parts.

Good progress overnight. Managed to finish off the last two body parts. Strap screws in place fro neck and bridge. Earthing wire in and not working Need to resolve this. Am now printing off two pickguards, one for the neck and one for the control panel. 4-5 hours each. @JohnH89 still offering advice, the guy must be a saint putting up with my witterings Weight without pickguards and control knobs, 3.9Kg. can't see it being under 4K as each pickguard is 50g and the control knobs and wiring will be around 100g, so 4.1Kg. The last bass was 4.4Kg so I have saved 300g. TBH was hoping for more. The body is a little longer so more filament, may look at printing with less infill or tailor the infill for certain areas Rob

Snorkie Likes Jazz?

What subject were you teaching? 😂

It was the combination of the weight of my 424 and the particular way it pulled against my injured shoulder that made me have to sell it. I often wonder what a 424 or 1024 would be like with the body reshaped and then chambered, with ultralight tuners. But not enough to spend the money finding out. But oh I miss that neck and oh I miss how it played. Oh well.