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Havent really the time to watch it. Pray Jamerson and Carole Kay are mentioned somewhere?

Check your manual... some will run on very few channels if you are happy to choose from pre-programmed settings. https://www.highlite.com/media/attachments/MANUAL/42199_MANUAL_GB_V2.pdf

If it's the same as this you can have 14 and 26 channel mode and/or trigger the differenent built in chases via DMX. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://avs.2dimg.com/resources/1738244068_865.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjI9s6tyrqRAxVTWkEAHdsTK544ChAWegQIUBAB&usg=AOvVaw2IPYtO95mlcMgVXo0YnZT0

Thanks for the comments. So the Fane speaker is 11mm high from the front of the baffle. It has a maximum excursion of 5.5mm and I've just measured it and that maximum excursion is inside the 11mm rim around the outside of the speaker, so that's good. The outside edge of the speaker cabinet is about 27mm (or so), so that gives 16mm (or so) space for the grill (or cloth or whatever). Just looked up 10mm perforated aluminium and it's 1mm thick, so I have quite a lot of leeway for mounting it. It could 2-3mm inside the outer edge to stop it catching and that still leaves it 12mm or so away from the speaker. I think that answers the question as does @Chienmortbb's comprehensive reply on speaker cable width. I really, really wish we could throw away every non-metric measurement. 1.5mm^2 cable is easy to understand, a reverse sized number is just confusing. I am a child of the metric system (just). Rob

Are the 50 channels fixed or can you set each individual lamp to an address. You could perhaps have every 5th one the same address and then just have '4 fixtures' per bar that just repeat.

Just had a quick look on the back of my Peavey Tour 700 which claims 700w rms @ 52.9 V rms. Quick calculation gives Irms =13.2A. I just use offcuts of mains cable, perfectly adequate I also use Speakons.

You can download the app for free. Then you need the extension (or whatever it's called) for the mixer you're using. If it's the Behringer XR18 you'll need the one called 'X/M Air' - it's free on Android and just a few quid on iPhone. This video may help:

Little Wing - Jimi Hendrix

I used perforated aluminium sheet with 3mm holes on the Plenty cab. While it pumps out a respectable volume of sound, I suspect that the resistance to fluid movement caused the fixing screws to ease off slightly so it sounded as if the speaker was on the way out on a recent open mic night. I took the grill off to check and it was fine, so I put it back on and tightened the screws firmly and it's still fine. However, for the 8" cab, I'm using 10mm diameter hole perforated sheet, and I may well retrofit the Plenty cab with it too.

Or grizzly bass which has a top end roll off

I think the point is what does the audience hear. drives will often sound harsh - I would be looking for a cab sim or high pass/low pass after the drives to help things sound natural through iem, and front of house. otherwise my stock answer is ss/bs mini or clone of!

That's right. That was my original question. I was thinking aloud really. It's not something I've ever done but posed the queestion, knowing we have some very qualified folk on here. As ever, they came up trumps (small t!!!!).

Indeed, probably the case with anything that uses vactrols too these days.

Turn To The Left - Weeds https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=kuwqBTtksXE&list=OLAK5uy_ndYGasfVeThrrJk_kGaM6kSd4Ex5auxSw

Try here my friend. https://thegita.co.uk/product-category/all-guitars/all-bass-guitars/

The speaker specs will tell you the maximum cone excursion, Xmax, which for this driver is 5.5 mm. Sometimes they give a separate larger figure for the excursion where damage will occur, but I think if we go past Xmax that means we’re into the realm of abusing the speaker anyway. So the cone should move at most 5.5 mm forward (or backward) from its rest position, add a couple of mm for (waves hands) stuff, and I guess that should be fine. I don’t think the size of the holes matters acoustically, but guess the percentage that is hole rather than not hole might do? I’d say picture what a speaker grille usually looks like and go for something not too different from that. You want to avoid the grille vibrating too much at an annoying frequency, so I would probably mount it as rigidly as you can. I screwed mine to blocks round the edge of the baffle and one in between the speaker and port and that seems fine.