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I bought a thomann safecase 80 for my 4003 and I don't think its possible to buy a better specced bag for the price (£120) https://www.thomann.co.uk/thomann_safecase_80_e_bass_bag.htm It is made for Thomann by Music Area, who sell the same thing with their own brand for a higher price.

I've had a LOT of cabs over the past nearly 30 years, some with feet and some not. Can't say it made any particular difference to sound, but feet definitely help stop the corners and bottom of the cab getting scuffed. Does anyone have any particular thoughts on whether feet are a good idea or not, and why? I've just bought a pair of Markbass NY151 cabs which don't have feet. My GR Bass 410+ does. Wondering if I should put ferry on the Markbass cabs... Thanks, Oli

Good antidote for COVID-19, if I remember the Mango Mussolini correctly from his first lap of the circus tent.......

The best small practice amp I tried in recent years was an EBS Classic Session combo, sounded incredible for it's size!

Other ware some models that used the same module operated at 8 ohms with lower rated power. Much of the emulation/simulation involves significant dynamics processing which limits the power into their respective rated loads. Otherwise those poor speakers would fail at an unacceptable rate. It’s a combination of both approaches depending on the specific product. Active power management while maintaining musicality is a game changer. I remember when such adaptive algorithms (including dynamic HPF’s, adaptive multi-band compressors/limiters, dynamic crossover points, HF lift circuits (came into existence in the pro audio world in products like Meyer, Renkus Heinz, Appogee, etc), they are now ubiquitous in today’s pro audio products at all levels. That’s one reason why reliability has dramatically improved.

It’s the crummy algorithms and will get worse the more AI takes over the world.

Whilst there do seem to be a lot of optimistically priced guitars on Reverb, I’ve bought 2 on it at good prices both from private sellers who were excellent to deal with. The site is just another business so who owns it probably won’t make a jot of difference.

Can anyone give me any advice on where to purchase a replacement jack socket, the enclosed black box type, that is soldered to the circuit board, they seem almost impossible to get hold of. My bass is a 1994, 2 EQ Stingray. I would be most grateful for any guidance.

A quality power amp designed for 2 ohm operation should have no problem driving 2 ohm loads with no reliability issues, I have been doing so for >30 years.

Looking forward to some unbiased thoughts! Still working through the deep dive video, mega impressed with the bloke doing it, probably the clearest explanation of a complex device i've heard in a while, thorough but easy to listen to. It's a really interesting device, on the face of it i probably would have bought it over the Quad Cortex, but it'll take a hell of a lot to make me want to bother changing. Still, if Neural keep ignoring bassists, its going to be tempting if its as good as it seems!

Oh great - hope it lives up to the hype. Would love to hear you reaction/review.

Is it the metal used for the pickguard screws?

Well that's interesting. I have been studying the guts of the Bugera with the schematic to hand. I identified all the connections to the output transformer (OT) so that's good. There are three secondaries on the power transformer (PT), which you can see where they connect to the main PCB in the photo below: grey/grey - I measured 373V AC, bridge rectified (there's no centre tap), with a B+ of about 500V DC orange/purple/orange - 20.5V-0V-20.5V AC, rectified to give a split rail supply of +/-24V DC. This is further reduced to create a DC supply for the heater filaments in the three preamp valves and +/-15V to run the digital reverb board. 20.5V AC is also run through a couple of stages of voltage doubling (C73-C75, D20-D22) to create -76V DC, then dropped to -56V DC for the bias supply (all measured). yellow/yellow - 6V AC (measured - within 10% of 6.3V so it's fine) for the heaters of the phase inverter and the four output valves. The Bugera can run EL34s in place of 6L6GCs. EL34s need 1.5A heater current each but 6L6GCs only 0.9A so there is sufficient capacity to run all the valves in my build without messing about with DC supplies. Also I can tie off the purple centre tap and rectify the orange/orange 41V AC to give me a nice -57V DC for my bias supply. We have a plan!

Vegetarian me too….

Vortex Jazz Club