Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 20/01/18 in all areas
-
That'd be one of your PG Tips then...?4 points
-
I bought the house, where ever I damn well want.. oh oh sorry babe, I’ll move them right away... 😵4 points
-
I decided that I'd craze the finish on the body - to give a lightly aged look, but still keep it looking shiny for now. (The bass will get any knocks and wear from gigging and playing over the coming years). Anyhow, when I've cracked the lacquer in the past, it's been on guitar bodies - which I've just stuck in my freezer overnight. The size of a bass body doesn't fit into the compartments of my home freezer, so I had to think of another method of crazing the lacquer. By chance, I'd met a plumber who was talking about freeing stuck pipe connections. He said, "when that happens, you just spray one part with Crack It spray. That instantly freezes the part and breaks the stuck connection". It turns out that this plumbers aerosol reduces the surface to minus 45 degrees. I got a can myself from a local Toolstation. All you have to do is get the lacquer warm, then simply spray the aerosol on the surface. You can sometimes hear the lacquer crack. Anyhow, the end result is a nice crazed lacquer. As the plumbers spray has an oil in it, you need to clean the surface afterwards using a rubbing compound (I used Mer Car Polish). I've heard that some folk use aerosols of compressed air to reduce the temp. I might try that on my next build? Here are some pics of some of the crazing (after crazing the lacquer, I wiped the body surface with water based Dark Oak stain to emulate years old grime in the cracks).3 points
-
Say what you like about TOTP being contrived and controlled by the old boy network. Those of us who were there watching the telly at seven O'clock every Thursday evening are still talking about it and remembering artists as if they had attended the performances themselves. Thirty years from now, I don't think we'll remember so many of the equally good, sometimes better, artists of today even with instantaneous global communication and clever marketing. In its day TOTP was the sole source of video* promotion for bands. Apart from posters, album artwork and pop magazines you could only guess what a band might look like as you listened to a low-fi MW transistor radio. God forbid that you should tune that lovely warm sounding valve radio set to a pop station. Your parents would have a fit. Today there are so many promoters and outlets for video that that marketing power has been diluted for them all. In this century, mistakes are easy to edit out and that perfect image of how the promoter wants you to be seen is preserved in binary forever. As a consequence of quality editing it is rare to see the day to day foul-ups that occur. These days the bits that are edited out are kept for collectors of bloopers who are looking to market a collection of out-takes. More revenue for someone I suppose. Personally, I like to see how bands used to cope with stuff like that when they were dropped in it, so to speak. Today everyone has the option of 'phoning a friend' if they're the slightest bit uncomfortable. *In this instance, just for convenience, lets ignore the fact that the term video became popular later.3 points
-
I feel I just have to share, the excitement is growíng So, after 20 long months of waiting my Wal MK1 is finished and soon to be on the way. Update photo from Paul.2 points
-
Hi I just had to vent my disappointment and frustration at the obvious lack of quality and care that occurred in 2002 when Rotosound produced the batch of RS66 strings that have been on my bass for the last 16 years. The A string broke on new year's eve!!! You can imagine how shocked I was at the obvious lack of longevity of the things these days. Its also meant I've had to clean the fret board eradicating a small but very important ecosystem that showed promising signs of world domination.2 points
-
Forgiven, but you should know that the pancakes have gone cold and a passer-by has stubbed a fag out in the hoisin sauce.2 points
-
Some people seem to have shops, not storage... Under the stairs seems to be a very popular option, and I have the great good luck to 'own' the cupboard under the stairs, to which I've fitted a 5-lever mortice lock. I have to leave enough space to sit down in there and shut the door, for when I need to cry in private.2 points
-
Bass cave. Been a few additions since this was taken like a Fender P Deluxe, an Orange rig and a TE small rig.2 points
-
2 points
-
I have a Barefaced Four 10, which I use with a variety of tube (Orange, Fender, Ampeg) and non-tube (Mesa Subway and TC Classic) heads. Yes it is efficient, but I can honestly say I have not encountered this problem at all with any of the heads. The Four 10 is a wonderful cab, well suited especially to tube heads, I would be looking at a different head before considering changing cabs.1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
It’s one of these. https://m.thomann.de/gb/millenium_go_kart_solo.htm?o=7&search=15164793481 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
Basses: vertically in cases in two cupboards in the bedroom, which is besides the living room. One bass on a stand in the living room. All amps and cabs in the living room. All keyboards and drums in the living room. Everything of value with my ex-wife.1 point
-
I did dozens of gigs all over the UK and in Europe via Eurostar as a solo bassist last year. You just need to plan exactly what you need to take on a gig, then sit and plan on how to take it. The photo below show my rig en-route to s show in Bristol. My bass in a Mono gig bag which also holds my MacBook Pro. I bought a brilliant padded container from Amazon, a little like one of those things Deliveroo cyclists use, but smaller. In there goes my combo and boxes containing my interface, and other bits and pieces. My pedalboard is in it's case. All covered by a large waterproof cover from Amazon.1 point
-
1 point
-
The answer is a definite yes. You can ditch the subs completely if you get a pair of RCF 735 or 745s. They have 15 inch woofers and high frequency drivers with BIG voice coils (3inch or 4 inch, respectively) meaning the crossover point with the woofer can be really low allowing it to almost behave like a sub in itself. Then go get yourself a good unpowered digital mixer as the RCFs are already powered, saving a load more weight again. Job done - your PA load in time is cut in half and you sacrifice nothing in terms of sound.1 point
-
1 point
-
Great - thanks for that I'm going to have a go. The brass knobs currently on the volumes and planned for the tone - although OK looks-wise - add about 3oz. When I'm trying to get closer to 5.5lbs rather than 6, those oz make a difference. It really does need a lathe but I am well impressed with @Norris 's results on a drill press. I will, however, try for grub-screw inserts if possible with my rudimentary equipment (and that, of course, will add some weight). In for a penny and in for a pound - I'm going to see if I can get a MoP swift on the top too. Yes - I know. Madness1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
Here you go. Free Bass transcriptions to download...(actually, there are quite a few, free (Bass) transcription sites on the net - down in theory as well). Quite a few Chuck Rainey charts here. http://www.lowdownbass.net/transcriptions/ Although a Big Band site, some Tower of Power Bass charts in among the full scores. http://www.mindformusic.com/big-band/80-artists/345-tower-of-power A few Quincy Jones charts as well. http://www.mindformusic.com/big-band/80-artists/315-jones-quincy1 point
-
Yes you will be quieter playing into an equivalent cab with less speaker area. But different cabs have different sensitivity values so you can't say the same for sure when looking at different brands. Did you say that amp had clicks on the volume control so you can't take it below 1? If so that's a stupid design and I'd be looking at a new amp. Trying to reduce your volume by switching cabs is the wrong path.1 point
-
This is the second deal I've done with Mark and as with the last one it went really easily. I sold him my Barefaced Big Twin T cab. Sad to see it go but its gone to a good home. Good comms, smooth deal, easy payment....what more could you want? Deal with utmost confidence1 point
-
1 point
-
Doesn't matter. Whatever space you're allocated, it's always a bit too small. The overspill from under the stairs resides in the living room, conservatory and spare bedroom. And the car boot. And a mates house & garage....1 point
-
Just a quick report back on Tuesday's gig with sax, electric piano, electric guitar, no drums. I played my Eminence bass through my new Acoustic Image SL-2 and the Upshot. The Upshot was placed on the floor behind me and the tiny amp was on a tray attached to my music stand. It sounded very natural, probably the best sound I've had with the Eminence. I've yet to try it with a drummer. Both the amp and cab fit in a purpose made rucksack for an easy carry. Check out the Youtube vids https://youtu.be/kEoqbbMtOTM1 point
-
1 point
-
Good evening, Laura, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.1 point
-
1 point
-
A bunch of us tried the Fame or Vitoos DC8 a while back. I have had no issues with it after a few gigs and practices, nor have I heard any complaints. Very well specced, and the housing itself is rather small (indeed, the cables coming out seem to take up as much room!). Mine was £50 posted for the Vitoos version.1 point
-
Just bought Alleva LG5 from Alberto. He was more than fair, bass was packed perfectly, he even sent me 2 extra pickguards Deal with confidence1 point
-
I run a Mooer Reverb off a Mosky power supply without issue. Not sure if I am just lucky or not.1 point
-
Attended audition, passed audition. Didn't mention it in case I didnt get it! Very chuffed to get this one!1 point
-
1 point
-
I did! Jamie Wilkins (wilko66 on here) is listening to my awful noise each week and trying not to laugh. Top bloke and I feel very comfortable learning from him. He's based in Aylesbury, which is a little way away, but it's worth the trek.1 point
-
I’ve lived in Scotland for 20 years; when should I expect the rainy season to end?1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
Here's a digital sample for you to have a closer look.1 point
-
Are you on Facebook? Pop along to the Wal Bass Club there and join in the fun. There’s a sticky post which lists various players’ fave tone settings. A lot of good tones to try out as you explore the preamp...!1 point
-
The 4s are nice and slim at the nut. To be fair, so are the 5s! The 4s are 38mm I believe. As far as I’m aware there’s no “official” upgrade kit for the Supers like there is with the KZs.1 point
-
I had a 44-01 Thought the neck was great and felt like a quality instrument. More than it's price tag for sure1 point
-
I've owned a few of the TRB basses. A TRB6, a JP1 and a TRB1006J. The TRB6 and the JP were both very old and Japanese built, they were a totally different level to the TRB1006, both being completely luthier built. The TRB1006J was though a very, very nice instrument, a lot better than the price would lead you to expect. A friend of mine who's a very, very fine solo bassist plays one, and loves it.1 point
-
Very nice feeling basses. You pretty much can’t go wrong with a Yamaha. I played a TRB1005J in Yamaha Music London, however my opinion of it was tainted by playing a BB1025X straight afterwards which frankly made the TRB sound anemic by comparison. I know they have different pups, one is active and one is passive etc etc but still. I was only playing through a fairly small Hartke combo but the difference was stark. The TRB felt “faster” to play though.1 point
-
So a mock up...still need the wires/pots which are somewhere in the postal system...1 point
-
Hi, again James (it's alright folks, we've pm'd on a different topic) When I get a linky tag thing from @Norris I know I HAVE to respond! Tru-oil. Wonderful stuff. And like always, there are choices. First of all, unless you've already ordered a bottle, a 3oz bottle will generally do at least 2 guitars or basses so plenty for one even with trial and error repeats Used on unstained wood, I would echo what @Bridgehouse said - use tru-oil with sandpaper to create a slurry. Wipe it off after a few minutes and the slurry acts as a sealer and grain filler. Repeat a few times and progressively drop down to, say 250 grit, and now, not just wipe it off but vigorously buff it off. Quite quickly you will get to a beautiful, quite durable, silky smooth satin finish like this: I do ALL my necks this way....it has to be felt to be believed Next option is to do the above just as a grain filler stage but then just apply coats of tru-oil wiped on (I use cheap household microfibre cloths) and left to dry without wiping or buffing. After a number of coats, with a wet sanding of 1500 to 2000 wet and dry every two or three coats to flatten any cumulative ripples or dust buggies and then a final couple of coats as the final semi-gloss. I say semi-gloss because tru-oil does dull down a touch after a few weeks. This one was done that way: For stained woods you do also actually have a few options: Stain it, apply a couple of coats of tru-oil left to dry overnight to act as a sealing coat, then apply wiped on coats as above, doing the first light sanding (1000 grit used wet) after, say, the fourth coat (so you dont sand into and through the stain) then carry on as above building a semi-gloss build-up I'm probably one of the few people who do it, but I have started doing the 'slurry and buff' approach with stained woods. You have to be gentler, but I've found that the slurry takes stain with is so actually, unless you are too harsh, you don't end up with bare unstained patches. Takes a bit more practice, but you can get some decent results (this used to be white): Hope that helps rather than further confuses! Andy1 point