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Ive been trying to resist. Failed. im in.

Well, better than Born Again anyway!

I think most do, and most have full time traditional jobs and families as well. I'm the odd ball. Blue

I'm not a fan of mismatching woods on the fretboard and headstock, unless the headstock matches the body. Give me a maple/maple neck or a painted headstock any day.

Looks like I've joined this party too late! Who are the band, I might have seen you? Hold the Line and Jump, I was worried it was my band but then I remembered I'm the bass player

+1

We don't need a Wurzels tribute down here, we have the real thing. My dad knew them very well 😂 I pulled the trigger and quit last night. The more sensible guitarist took it quite badly, but I expected that anyway. Got a singer, guitarist and drums lined up for the new project, which is basically 80s pop/rock for pub gigs. Bands down here seem to spread right across the decades, with the 80s being largely missed out other than a few def leppard or bon jovi numbers in each set, and I'm thinking something more focussed might have a good chance at getting going.

This thread is the sole reason for me withdrawing my Micro Thumpinator from sale...

Your research has missed some very important points. 1. No HPF will "cut off everything" below a certain frequency. What they do is progressively attenuate frequencies from the cut off point downwards according to the filter slope. Those frequencies will still be present but they are reduced in level more as you go further down from the cut off frequency. SFX have a frequency plot which shows the effect of the Thumpinator on their web site. 2. You have ignored everything else in the signal path including the human ear. While normal human hearing goes down to 20Hz, if you look at any frequency plots you will see that sensitivity drops off significantly from 160Hz downwards, so most of what you are hearing with your octaver on the open E string are the harmonics rather than the 20Hz fundamental - the brain is very good at filling in this missing frequency information for you. Also unless your rig includes PA style cabs specifically designed to reproduce signifiant levels of sub bass ( which case you should be using an active crossover and you won't need a HPF) your cabs will struggling to project these low frequencies at the same level as the higher ones. 3. Finally the design of the HPF itself is very important. IME a higher cut off frequency with a steeper slope (24dB/oct rather than 12dB/oct) is going to be far more effective at removing the potentially speaker damaging frequencies. Go too low with too gentle a slope and it won't be removing enough to be doing a worthwhile job of protecting your speakers. Also as has already been said many filter designs will as a by-product of the way they work add a slight peak to the signal at the cut off point - which is something you really want to avoid on one aimed at removing sub-audible frequencies. AFAIK only the Thumpinator is designed specifically to minimise this peak.

We have conquered NAMM! It's good to be back.

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The rest of the black hardware finally turned up I’ve just swapped over the tuners, strap buttons and string tree So now the bass is finished apart from a setup Sorry for some reason the picture has gone a bit grainy I’m happy with the finished look it’s no frills and simple!! (Bit like me!!) 1 down only 3 to go!!.........

The Headhunters, sans Herbie Hancock.

@D’AddarioUK D’Addario offer a string tension guide that allows you to select the correct gauge of string when tuning down to maintain the tension you enjoy. Check it out here: http://stringtensionpro.com/

Anything with a ridiculously oversized headstock with canoe accessories as tuners and totally clashes with the rest of the bass.

As Lee Pomeroy said somewhere, if you're a good bloke, play ok and get on with everyone, you get the call.

I dont question it. I'm stunning, and that's the end of it. Move along please

Maybe you should withdraw 'privileges' until she changes her mind. Oh wait, it doesn't seem to work that way round!

You’ll struggle to find any definitive temperatures/ humidity measurements for safe storage; but the general consensus for instruments and audio gear is... Cold: no problem Hot: not ideal Humid: very bad!

For the DIYers among us, Julian Pohler (Mr. Shalltechnik04 - the guy behind the Guma Drive, Guma Antique and Growling Krizzly kits) is bringing out a combined HPF/LPF + DI kit soon called "Vong" (no idea what Vong means). I've asked him to keep me posted on when it's to be released.

Eventually every design in existence will have been slagged off in this thread...

Yes to the lighter relic, but you can't have matching headstock on a P. You'll go straight to hell.

Yeah the Amplug is awful, poorly built and sounds like s*@t

Deposit is usually £200.

Typical comedy price from unsere Deutsche Freund. I do know what it is - or was - assuming anyone cares. It's a mid/late 60s Matsumoku build, anyone's guess what the brand was, although Aria's always a possibility. The offset dots & "Steel Adjustable Neck" plate are a 100% ID for that manufacturer. It's probably worth about £60.

Update - @dand666 - going what happened with the A12 -> A12t where the A12t replaced the A12 in it's entirety, I am guessing that the new releases that were announced at NAMM will do the same. The new models haven't gone live on the 64 audio site and apparently no details have been shared to the wider community - but I suspect they will appear imminently. With regards to pricing, again, this is speculation but given that the A12 was replaced by the A12t and there was no price change to reflect that change, it would be fair to assume that the same will hold true for the new models. If you want the latest and greatest and want a 64 Audio ear piece, it may be worthwhile holding back til their release.

funnily enough, I've had exactly this discussion with Paul himself this week Similar to the OP, I am determined to get a new Wal - had a couple in the past (dating from the '80s and '90s) love the sound, but they weren't to my specs (one was second hand, one was new but built to somebody else's specs so was ready to pick up if i wanted one straight away, which i did at the time) and I never felt that they were "my" basses, so have been planning to get one to my exact requirements. And one of the niggles was that the necks were a little chunky - still very playable, and had that gorgeous sound, but, well, not quite "my" bass. So I figured I'd go for a new one and get exactly what I want. Here's his reply (only helps if you're after a five string): Here are our standard 5-string dimensions: > >Neck width @ nut= 46.7mm and @ 24th fret = 71.5mm/2.82'' >Neck depth @ 2nd fret =21.9mm/0.86'' and @ 12th = 24.18/0.95'' >Bridge saddle center spacing = 17mm/0.67'' This is almost identical to my thru-neck Warwick (that is extremely slim and fast) - a mm or two out at most, so I'm very happy. Does make me wonder if it's my perception that the old Wals were chunkier because of how it felt at the top end, or if they were just made chunkier, either back in the day or for a particular order. One other point to raise, having just pulled the trigger and paid the deposit (yesterday). There's no way to disguise the fact that the price is a lot of money for a bass so I've been putting it off because I didn't have the cash lying around looking for a home. I'm fortunate enough to get a bonus each year, and in a good year that would cover the cost, but assumes that I don't spend it on anything, and my dreams of a new bass this year were dashed when my laptop and hoover packed up, to be added to the list of other stuff that I need to spend some of the bonus on. Then the penny dropped that it's going to take two years to build the bass, and I don't need to pay for all of it up front. So I asked for details. £1k up front, which is non-returnable (slightly more if you pay by PayPal to cover the extra admin costs). That gets you a specs sheet to confirm what you're after. Then nothing for six to nine months, when Paul gets round to starting on the neck, at which point he wants another £1k. And that's all you need to pay until it's ready. So for me I don't need to find £6-7k from this year's bonus, I only need to find £2k, which I can do, and means I place the order now rather than putting it off for another year (so that's a new Wal in two years time rather than three). Excess pay will be going into a savings account/Wal fund, and by the time next year's bonus gets added that should cover everything well ahead of time.

Stability seems to be the reason for roasting a neck, which is fair enough, but does it have any bearing on 'tone'? *Opens can of worms, runs away*

Classy !

This is the curve of the ZOOM B3 GEQ 12dB cut at 50Hz, all other freqs at 0. White noise going in, obvs.

Retribution consists of 1 x drum teacher with 30 years playing experience, 1 x guitar teacher with the same, 1 x bass player with about 33 years experience, 1 x guitarist with about 30 years experience and a relatively new vocalist who is also a GIT graduate and has around 20 years guitar experience and about 5 years as a vocalist. We must have thousands of gigs between us, but in this project we'll play 10-12 times a year. We all wanted a fun project that we could fit in around other commitments - bands/personal life/hobbies/work/whatever It could be a chance to play a small number of gigs in a different genre, with different personal, maybe closer to where you live. Saying any band doesn't deserve top notch candidates is a bit of a slap in the face to those of us who after years of gigging hard want to put our feet up now and again

And Dood, thanks for the link to the D'Addario string tension guide. I've never considered looking at the tension of strings in measurable terms, just high or low tension. I feel like I have been educated.

That's a good point. The strings do spend half their life at standard pitch while I'm learning songs from the original, then tuned down to play with the band. I'm going to try out a set of used 55-110s and see how I get on with them, then if I like them I'll get a new set and leave them tuned down from day one.

what is your point? the guy in Aus could be selling at a loss to get rid of stock/unwanted item.

The Musicman ones have been around for a long while on certain limited editions they've offered. That Fender Precision edition has as well I think. I have a Classic Sabre with a roasted flamed maple neck - it's about three and a half years old. There are no downsides to it in my opinion, so long as you like the look - the idea is you get the equivalent of aged wood through the roasting process - not just in look but in structure - leading to potential improvements in stability. My bass is fine with no downsides to it - it also has stainless steel frets like the new ones and those are fine as well. No doubt they will wear better. I personally think the roasted maple looks absolutely stunning if the neck is laquered and slightly better than the oil and wax finish but that's just my preference. Not that it's of any importance but a curiosity is if you sniff the neck you get a faint but definite whiff of maple syrup (seriously!!!)

The issue that I have with that stuff is that the velcro bond is stronger than the adhesive bond. Whenever I try to remove a pedal it takes the velcro up off the board with it.

Number of gigs doesn't equate to level of competence. To suggest a band that only plays 6 gig's a year doesn't deserve good musicians is a bizarre stand point.

I know exactly how good a player I am... How good am I? ...I'm alright.

Modded the Gypsy Rose with: Cali neo pickups Kiogon wiring loom Schaller black tuners black scratchplate D'Addario Strings graphite vinyl wrap on headstock with vinyl decal generic black bridge, screws, neck plate, strap buttons, string tree..

My current board - I've been using this set-up for a while now...

Slinky on every level and a fine bit of Bootsy dirt groove on this old classic 🤩

Buy another bass. Over the years I've spent £100s on my "project" bass in a vain attempt to get a fantastic bass on the cheap, but it's never been as good as the basses I've bought complete and it's residual value is ziltch. Not that it hasn't been fun. And there are some great second hand bargains, especially if you don't need something fashionable or collectable.

IME every single MIDI guitar and bass that I've tried required so much modification of my playing technique, that I ended up learning to play synths using a keyboard instead.

Just bought Mark's self build cab. Lovely cab and a top transaction all round. Absolute basschat royalty! Cheers, Doug

I think so. An alternative would be 18 1v batteries, but it might make the basses too heavy.