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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/09/18 in all areas

  1. On a 5-string that's only £13 per string. Unless you have a serious issue to resolve (or in my case anything that involves a soldering iron), any amount greater than a penny is too much to pay for a set up IMHO. Bass guitars are pretty simple - you'd be much better advised learning how to set it up for yourself.
    5 points
  2. I'm a Yorkshireman. £65 is expensive for a bass! 😂
    5 points
  3. The general policy is to let nature take its course, and have topics 'sink or swim' depending on the frequency of posts added. Any subject not attracting replies would then, naturally, sink down (but would still be found by searching, of course...). Some topics, such as warnings about Paypal scams, are of permanent interest, and would normally not, in themselves, solicit replies; hence the pinning. It's also true that, when pinned, topics tend to become 'part of the furniture', and no longer receive any visits at all, because they're pinned..! Having said all that, and recognising the quality and value of the OP, I'll pin this, as it's in the proper section for those interested. On my head be it, then; let the pinning commence..!
    5 points
  4. Hmm just watched the vid and although I agree with the premise I gotta say I preferred it when they overplayed as it shut the singer up !
    5 points
  5. Indeed so. The LPJ DC above costs $799. I'd cheerfully pay as much - or more - for a plane ticket to the States, car hire and a hotel at the other end just so I could hunt down whoever came up with that monstrosity and give them the Chinese burn of a lifetime. A Junior in name only. Too true, Gibson, too true.
    4 points
  6. Reading dots can take you to places you might otherwise never go. I value it considerably as a learning tool, for recording compositions and for reducing wasted time in rehearsals.
    4 points
  7. Took this as a p/x against a Yamaha SLB200 a few years ago and never looked back. Strung with a set of Prestos, it plays nicer than most electric uprights I've tried and has a nice natural warm and punchy sound that cuts through in a mix. This is one of the earlier models that still features a traditional style scroll that bolts onto the head/pegbox. Hand built by Alan Hatswell (as I'm sure most of you reading this will already know!). Don't see many of these around now but those who know what they are know how good Alan's work is and how nicely his instruments play. Fingerboard is in very good condition with minimal wear, there are a few little dings in various places, but they're all very small and are typical from years of use. One small split in the frame (pictured) that was there when I got it, but its never spread and has remained the same all the time I've had it. Not sure of the exact age but I took possession around 5/6 years ago. It's a really great bass but just doesn't get the use these days and major car repairs (again!!!) have prompted a sale! I'd prefer collection but can do my best to pack it up if buyer wants to arrange a courier at their expense/risk. Weight is 7.9kg approx. I travel between my home in Pembrokeshire & Kent fairly regularly so could meet up along the way or in Kent. Don't mind meeting elsewhere for petrol costs. I'll consider part ex. with cash my way, or if you've got a fairly light-weight 5 or 6 string I might consider a straight swap! Neck problems mean my other bases are too heavy to gig with sometimes, so the only light bass I have is a Squier Precision, which doesn't always offer the tones I need! Something like an Ibanez SR or maybe an older Yamaha TRB (not all that light, but I miss the one I sold a few years ago), or just let me know what ya got! Any questions please feel free to ask.
    3 points
  8. Done a bit of sanding on this for the belly are arm shaping. The neck is starting to look quite nice - I think the birds eye maple will finish nicely
    3 points
  9. In fact, that guy could probably sell you some
    3 points
  10. I normally charge £35 for a set up. Typically this will include adjustments to the nut slots, truss rod and string height. Lubricant where required. A thorough clean. Fret polish and board treatment. Strings not included in the price.
    3 points
  11. Kids don't worry me. They can't drive or carry a 10x8. I'll still have a gig 😂
    3 points
  12. Thought I'd share since the bassline is so badass 😎 The album as a whole is worth checking out if you're into funky neo soul/jazz/beats...
    2 points
  13. This is one awesome instrument. I bought this last year on here from Roger (Bassmayhem), using money saved for a change of car. Said car has now been changed, and the loan must be repaid. That's the ONLY reason I'm selling, as it is just fantastic. 34" scale, 55mm at the nut, 21mm depth at the nut, 17mm spacing at the bridge. Swamp Ash body, Spanish Cedar top, mahogany and bubinga neck, macassar ebony fingerboard, mandolin frets (I think). Bartolini humbucker, Hipshot piezo Bridge, active vol and balance, with Bartolini internal gubbins. There was a tone knob, but Roger removed it, as it was a passive tonestyler, incompatible with the active preamp. I haven't missed it, as the balance knob does a good job of changing the tone. And what a tone. This is a BIG sound. I will try to include a link to the Clement site, which has a page devoted to the construction of this very instrument. It also has sound examples which are very accurate. https://www.clementbass.com/2014/01/the-clement-singlecut-anne-chambered-bass/ https://www.clementbass.com/2014/09/5264/ The above links have all the info needed, I think. It will come bubble wrapped to death inside an acoustic gig bag, itself bubble wrapped inside a box. I paid £900, and considered it a bargain for a handmade boutique instrument, so that's what I would like for it. It has a few minor dings, but only consistent with a well played instrument. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Sean
    2 points
  14. I bought a 2017 EB4 new a year ago, and it is a damn good bass. Babicz bridge, two humbuckers with coil taps, I've used for a few gigs and it sounds great. Very light as well. Surprised it was so badly received by the bass playing world, I think they condemned it without playing it or even seeing it in the flesh.
    2 points
  15. Awesome thank you chaps!
    2 points
  16. A few weeks ago I paid £100 for a full setup (minus strings, flats so didn’t need changing), but that included a full fret levelling & polish etc. It took him (a busy luthier) one day to turn around. The bass played beautifully after, like really really good! So if your guy does good work, i’d say the price is ok if it genuinely will feel like a different bass after, although i’d hope they can turn it around quicker than 10 days, I always feel a bit hard-done-by after 7 days haha Si
    2 points
  17. One person's easy is another person's total pain in the neck. I am really hopeless with anything technical, and it makes me really grumpy even trying to attempt it. Luckily I am in a position where I can pay experts to set up my bass, alter my curtains, change my tyres.. all that technical shizz that I really cannot bear to do. I even hate changing my strings, but I can just about manage that without assistance. Takes me a very long time and much swearing though. It's obviously different if you are a bit hard up and/or actually like that side of things.☺️ Re the original question - I'd say £65 is a bit steep, but I'd be willing to pay it if I knew they were going to do a really good job.
    2 points
  18. Today was inlaying, joy!! Briefly, bottom of the design stuck onto masking tape, masking tape on top of headstock. Masking tape to masking tape superglue the inlay in place Scribe around the design with a sharp marker, I used a scalpel but I'm sure there is a better tool for this than that. Pull off the surrounding masking tape to make sure you've scribed everywhere Pare off the inlay with a chisel then rout out the design, I forgot to photo this but I used a Dremel, a 1mm bit for the outline and a 3mm bit for the bulk of the waste. I tend with dark woods like this to actually rout half and half through the line leaving something like a 0.5mm gap all around which in reality means some places it's tight and in others there's 1mm gap. Then I mixed epoxy with dust saved from sanding the fretboards and glued them all in with plenty oozing out, messy but in this case it doesn't matter as we are grain filling the lot afterwards and the black on black won't show once it's sprayed. Sand it all off once dry and see how it looks, there are still some voids that need filling, they have been cleaned out and done but they're being left now for a cople of days, I'm having a day off tomorrow
    2 points
  19. No chance! I'm committed to becoming a badass on the bass 😎
    2 points
  20. £115 for a set up? That's some serious
    2 points
  21. Last night was my first gig with the 80s covers band that I joined a couple of months ago (c.f. "Number of songs for audition" thread). It was at the Maiden's Head in Maidenhead - decent venue, easy load-in/out, the crowd picked up over the course of the evening. However I did have to deal with a situation that I'm not sure I've ever encountered before, but which is probably going to become a regular occurrence: hollow wooden stage with no PA support. The EQ that resulted in a good sound out front meant a little area of extreme boominess within a radius of about 2m of my bass amp. My new bandmates were absolutely elated with my performance and the way the band sounded as a whole. I made a few flubs, but well within my range of acceptable tolerances for a first gig with a new band. I also got to wear a shirt that I bought about 15 years ago, but have never worn because it's fairly hideous. Yet perfect for an 80s band. S.P.
    2 points
  22. £65 for a week and a halfs work! What's he like at gardening?
    2 points
  23. Strength - I have no real ego Weakness - I have no real ego
    2 points
  24. That, and well... I can't be bothered to do it myself. I know my way around me gear, for any professional it's imperative that you should, but when I'm out playing 2 and a half hours plus 4 nights a week, I can't really be bothered to do it myself on my time off, and would rather a professional who knows their craft do it for me to exacting standards 🤷🏻‍♂️
    2 points
  25. Thunderbirds: They never stopped making them, but they did tweak the pickups, electronics and bridges. I think they genunely missed a trick by failing to move away from the colour options of sunburst, black or (occasionally) white/ivory. I couldn't give a rats donkey for the 50th Anniversary gold one or the other misfires; surely if you're painting all these effing Les Pauls a myriad of rainbow colours, how difficult would it be to slip a Thunderbird into the paint booth? Fools.
    2 points
  26. Yes - generally for stripping poly I use heatgun and decent decorators scraper: You actually need quite a bit of heat but as said above, also need to avoid burning the wood (quite easy to do). Keeping the heat gun moving helps. A sharp edged scraper allows you to get under the poly as it softens but you need to guard against digging in. Basically, start at the back to start to get the feel for it, don't rush and don't be surprised if, under one removed layer, there is another one underneath (Ibanez's are particularly prone to this).
    2 points
  27. Oh no. That's totally ruined my enjoyment of Def Leppard and Kiss.
    2 points
  28. Extraordinary to see such negative vibes, and I'd wager none of you have seen one of these in the flesh let alone played one. Go and try one before you comment. I have one (more details to follow tomorrow) - the revoiced preamp does sound very musical even on full mid boost. The weight loss is very noticeable - I have a light Stingray and Sabre and this is noticeably lighter than them. The output is huge. The changed body and neck contours feel really good. Oh and flawlessly constructed and the roasted maple is the slickest neck I've ever played. What's not to like (other than the price - but this is easily as good if not better than say a Fender CS) Regarding string to string volume - this bass is very balanced - The pre amp is revoiced - I don't think people will have an issue with that even if the EQ settings are abused. And the slap tone remains wonderful - clever eh? Just to correct some errors in Misdee's post - there was an issue with quality control from CLF who made the pre EB basses initially, which affected amongst other things necks on pre EB basses - indeed rigorous quality control was instituted as dealers rejected the instruments and eventually this created a relationship breakdown because CLF were either unwilling or not capable of producing a product which would meet MMs requirements (this was the 70s!!!) - it's all readily available in print - the issues included inoperable truss rods, dead spots (at the very top end of the neck), rattling truss rods and worse. Those in circulation didn't have those issues.
    2 points
  29. 'Heart attack' is a catchall term for so many different problems - advice for the wrong one could be misleading at best, life threatening at worse. If I were in your shoes I'd be looking for the advice of those who treated you and know exactly what your problem is, not a bunch of random bass players who have never met you.
    2 points
  30. Knew I'd seen that charcoal sparkle finish before 😁
    2 points
  31. Sounds like every freeform jazz band I've ever seen.
    2 points
  32. The figure of eight technique was used with Arkansas stones and carborundum that were very hard. Being so hard the tool was near impossibly to gouge into it and getting even wear was important because you needed to take them to a stone mason to get flattened if they got dished. Waterstones being soft will let the tool dig in but also can the flattened on a piece of sandpaper in a few seconds. Pulling the blade backwards is also better because the burr gets polished off, pushing tends to break it off which can fool you into thinking the blade is sharp. The other reason we pull backwards is it is easy to maintain the tool angle by rocking from one foot to the other with our elbows locked into our ribs, the old figure of eight methods usually ended up with a rounded bevel that needed to become progressively steeper or to hone for longer There really is no need to use honing compounds, a 6000 grit stone will finish your tools to a mirror finish and more than sharp enough even for planing Satinwood or Snakewood. There is no need to worry about overheating with waterstones, using them is a wet process and self cooling.
    2 points
  33. This guy certainly makes his Reverend sound amazing:
    2 points
  34. I recall popping into The Old Duke in Bristol many moons ago on one of their jazz nights. There was a band playing and it quickly became apparent that the bassist (old Fender Jazz, sounded glorious) was, shall we say, a bijou bit busy. They took solos, bassist went first and credit where it's due, he was awesome. Then the sax took a solo... and the bassist kept soloing... drummer next... yup, bass was still going... he trampled on everything. By the end of the tune I just wanted him to FSTFU.
    2 points
  35. That's more 80's than a Betamax player, love it
    2 points
  36. I saw a drummer once doing blazing double kick in Caribbean Queen. In fact there's a plethora of drummers that sound like knitting machines
    2 points
  37. Nothing wrong over playing. It's just choosing when to. Imo.
    2 points
  38. I’ve done the right thing and have emailed Darkglass to see if I can review this little beast for you all
    2 points
  39. For Sale (no trades.... trying to reduce my collection a little!) G6136LSB GRETSCH WHITE FALCON BASS, w/ Hardcase and original paperwork. Made in Japan, 2006 Bought this BEAUTY from Bath Vintage & Rare in the middle of a tour a few years ago, and it doesn't see the light of day that it deserves. Beautiful bass in immaculate condition, with original hardcase (which has a few scuffs on from being in the back of a van- w/ 2 original keys), gretsch paperwork, etc. Only used on 1 tour, in the studio once or twice- would love to see it loved! Based in Brighton. Great punchy tones, nice and lightweight and obviously looks like an absolute mistress- probably the most head-turning eye-catching bass in existence- and not tons around (or in use). Great playability, super comfy (though a reach to the tuners cus of the scale). Comfy padded back (so no buckle rash either), gold hardware and Gretsch screw on strap locks. Year: 2006 Weight: 7.3lbs Scale: 34" From the weeeeb: This gorgeous top-of-the-line Gretsch bass is modeled on the classic White Falcon guitar. The double-cutaway body has an arched top with oversized bound F-holes, gold-sparkle binding and white back pad. Other features include a three-piece maple neck, ebony fingerboard with mother-of-pearl Neo Classic thumbnail inlays, dual TV Jones Thunder’Tron humbucking bass pickups, three-position pickup switch, three-position master tone switch, standby switch, Space Control bridge, “G”-cutout tailpiece, gold-plated locking tuners and gold-plated hardware.
    1 point
  40. I picked this up yesterday. It’s Charvel 1B from 1987 and considering its age, it’s in super overall condition. I was never brave enough and far too cool to own one of these when they were popular, but now I’m older and no longer give a stinky poo, it’s the perfect time to have one! My poor band may think otherwise. I forgot just how good these bolt on Charvel necks are: it’s incredibly comfortable and I’ve been able to get a seriously low action on it. It also doh said great too and the reverse P pickup is a great variation. Now, where’s my hairspray?
    1 point
  41. Apart from the fact of you've got some stunning looking basses there! The main question I've got going through my head is HOW BIG IS YOUR SOFA!! 😁
    1 point
  42. I actually think it’s quite exiting picking a bass up after a good setup , as it’s my main pastime I don’t mind how much I spend
    1 point
  43. (See pic) - a bit hard to see, but fret lines & dots to left are reinforced with Tipp-Ex, ones to right aren't (my '77 Ovation Magnum 1 fretless) recently used the missus's sparkly iridescent clear nail varnish - really catches the light!
    1 point
  44. I set my P up in line with Fender recommendations, 2.5mm at the 17th fret on the E string, they should know they built it, I would think too low an action means a very light touch all the time which will take the dynamics out of your playing, plus I very rarely go down the dusty end so lowering the action has less effect anyway, apart from loads of fret buzz
    1 point
  45. Third time's a charm... @Dad3353, Any chance of getting this pinned please?
    1 point
  46. This is very low. My low action goes from 1,5 mm under the C string (on my 6 strings basses) to 2 mm under the B string at 12th fret. That said on a P-Bass, a higher action means better dynamics. I set my newly acquired Fender Precision Bass AVRI '57 at 2 mm under the G string to 3 mm under the E string at 12th fret. This is just terrific sounding with new Ernie Ball flatwounds cobalt. Thanks @HazBeen for the tip for these strings. The pickup is also far away from the strings which gives also better dynamics. I'm now in the process of raising the action on all my basses as that very P-Bass effect is something I really like.
    1 point
  47. Ebay has got the exact same block inlay stickers that come from Japan for £7.69 with free p&p instead of £12.20 off Amazon 😀
    1 point
  48. I will give you £175 for it!! 😀 Nah, it`s worth about £450 -£500. Do a search on the for sale forum.
    1 point
  49. following this trend (hope not a problem for the OP), here's some scanned copies (prints) of friends' fretted 5 & 6 back in Singapore. Both are IEP/carved tops:-
    1 point
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