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Showing content with the highest reputation on 19/04/19 in all areas
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I will state that my first hand experience of these only goes to 1993 - Wal, 1998 - Alembic but I don't think that much has changed with the philosophies of either company in the meantime. Both are top quality instruments built to the highest standards and use mostly unique, purpose built hardware and electronics. to my mind, Alembic set the ball rolling with filter based preamps but Wal developed the concept to its optimum regarding variety of tones versus simplicity of use. ACG/ John East has since developed the Wal concept even further albeit the complexity is increasing again. A couple of things not mentioned in the original thread you referred to in my mind influence the sounds of these instruments as much as the pre amps - Construction and pickups. The Alembic sound is without doubt partially due to its complex, multi-laminate, through-neck construction, just as the Wal is similarly shaped by its bolt-on construction. That is partly I think, why the Epic basses seem to slightly fall short - they are set-neck construction, not through-neck. Apologies to all Epic owners - they are fine basses but that basic construction setup in a way changes the character of the sound. And again- pickups. The Alembic pickups are voiced to enhance the Alembic sound and as such are probably integral to the sound of those basses. Likewise, the Wal Multi Coil pickups are a huge part of the Wal sound. Do Alembic and Wal ( and Fodera, Sadowski etc. etc. ad infinitum) justify their high price tag? Well, factually they do - they're still in business after all these years and customers are still ordering new instruments from them so the price is justified in that respect certainly. But in relationship to general cost of living price indices, some of these makers have been able to push their prices far beyond inflation levels. According to an inflation calculator I looked at, the Alembic Essence 6 bass I ordered in 1998 at a cost of £2k should now cost about £3.5k But if I look at the Alembic price list, it starts at $8000. Only the individual can decide if anything is worth that sort of premium to them. I love my Wal. I love my Alembic. I love my ACG. I love my Antoria fretless Precision Copy! I just like basses and I like the little differences between different ones. Whilst the prices of the boutique builders can sometimes be hard to swallow, there is no doubt that at the mass market end of the bass spectrum, it has never been easier to afford a quality instrument.4 points
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I think we all know about these so I'll spare the superlatives! To the best of my knowledge this one is all original. Apart from I've put new felt rings under the strap buttons (the old ones had disappeared) and it's sporting some Fender NPS 45 - 105 round wound strings. It does have some oxidisation to metalwork. And dings commensurate with its age and having lived a life. Difficult to photo close up so I'll describe where they are and maybe you can zoom in. head stock under E tuner (3mm) neck rear lower 1st fret (3mm) body front above tug bar to left and to right (1.5mm and 3mm) body front and bottom behind bridge (4 x 5mm) body rear above and to right of neck plate (10mm and 5mm) body rear under neck plate (buckle rash) body rear top right as you look at it (12mm) Bass weighs only 3.762 Kg (8.3 lbs). I zeroed the scales with the Sisley book on it so the bass would balance better in case you're wondering. Currently collection from Skipton only or I can meet you within a reasonable distance. Price is £600 and it does have to be £600 I'm afraid.3 points
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Another lost cause saved from landfill. Roland PK5 Bass pedals, bought for £200 locally, non functioning. No battery pack, burn marks on battery leads. No PSU. Someone obviously tried plugging in the wrong one via the wrong input... Roland and Boss historically were a bit weird on their power delivery methods for pedals back in the day but a former owner has been even weirder. Proper 9V PSU obtained, new battery pack fitted, some minor track cleaning and repair, D1 diode replacement, fried (cracked) npn (Q3) to replace, hopefully nothing else downstream, caps all ok. can’t get a service manual (http://servicerepairmanuals.netlook like they are not functioning) so I am flying cautiously. And yes, the inductor tests ok. The (D3) 5v6 zener Is untroubled, I even read 9v up to the npn so I was cautiously hopeful the custom chip is ok. Parts arrived. Cleaned the board, made me a broken trace with clippings from the diode. Fitted a battery pack as well. worked first time Discovered to my great joy I can have multiple synths running, so a few classic old synth VSTs have all been chained to MIDI channel 2, (Taurus Plug-in seems to be fixed on 2) so tap into poly mode and *MASSIVE* sounds ensue... mellotron VST next...3 points
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Here is my latest build. The Brooks Telebird. It is my take on the legendary Fenderbird that was built by Peter Cook for John Entwistle. However I decided to combine the characteristics the Thunderbird body with a 51 P (aka Telecaster bass). The specs are as follows - Two piece Swamp Ash body - Allparts Maple 51 P neck. Bolt on - Vintage blonde finish - Jess Loureiro 51 P split coil pickup - 34" scale - Tusq nut - Wide travel Thunderbird bridge plus tailstop. Nickel - Matte black single ply pickguard - Gotoh GB528 lightweight tuners. Nickel - Allparts push/pull Volume pot - CTS Tone pot - Silver reflector cap knobs - Telecaster jack cup. Nickel - GHS Brite Flats 49-108 I'll post pics of the build process in several answers below.3 points
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Yeah, I have - thank god. Bought in 2011 as a treat to myself for a messy breakup. Sold in 2013 to get married to childhood sweetheart. Who bought it back for me in 2017. A very special CS 1 of 1 (weird neck profile) 64 jazz bass relic.3 points
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We've reached the ten cabs target. 🤩 Anyone who wants one now will have to go on the waiting list - if we do any more in the future. Thanks to those ten early adopters!3 points
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Yeah, realistically it was bound to happen. There’s only about 4mm of plastic left over when making the rebate for the pickup. it snapped on the last cut. Serendipitously, within a gnats chuff of where the original basses pickguard is snapped. so...I’m going to leave it as is. And maybe I will age things up a bit more.2 points
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No, but I've sold two back to their previous owners Nothing expensive, mind.2 points
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I acquired my first Spector last week (courtesy of our own Psycoandy) - a very fine NS200/4. I'm very impressed, especially with the lovely narrow string spacing at the bridge which is very much my bag. Very comfortable to play, if a tad weightier than I'm used to, but a wider strap is helping that somewhat.2 points
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If you like the Stingray sound and feel then a USA built SUB would be a great budget option. This model was made on the same production line as the "real" Stingray but some economies were made. The most noticeable ones being a painted neck (many owners sand this off and use oil to refinish), no body shaping, and different paint finish on the body. Oh yes, and an ugly scratchguard which is an easy change if you don't like it. It has the same hardware and electrics as the Stingray. They were made from 2003 to 2005. (I stand to be corrected here.) They change hands for under your budget and they deliver far more than the cost. I've owned mine for a long time and gig it occasionally and I'm always impressed. Frank.2 points
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...but it will still be missing a string whichever way I look 😁 It's ok Andy Travis will be along again shortly. He doesn't like 5 string basses. He loves Yamaha BBs. He knows he wants this. He also knows we know that he knows he wants this. And it's been nearly a week since he bought a Yammy, so he's overdue...😂2 points
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Today is my birthday and I just had the dispatch note to say the book will be delivered today! Thank you Geddy for pulling whatever strings you did for me2 points
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The gerlitz stuff is fantastic! They do "smudge off" which is great for hardware and guitar honey for the fingerboard. I've used it for years 😁2 points
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Don't suppose anybody could clean my car? I mean, I could do it myself.... but why should I?2 points
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Did some shielding for the pickup cavity and the control cavity. And I stringed the bass to check if everything was in place ;-) Oh yeah, this was the sketch that I drew before I started the build2 points
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I do, but not in the way you're asking. The shame never entirely fades...not really - you just learn to live with it. 😢2 points
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FS/FT. Fretless Shuker bass. Looking for £800 delivered. Would consider trades for anything four string and fretted Five piece laminated neck, 18 volt EMG system. Great early example from Jon Shuker. Specs: maple and wenge (or walnut) laminated neck ebony fretboard two way truss rod Gotoh GB2 tuners Swamp ash body polyester basecoat sunburst gloss lacquer topcoat EMG j set EMG BQC eq ABM bridge Chrome hardware1 point
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For sale or trade very new Black Tiger 5, few months old. Very light for a Smith 4,3 kg. Perfect. With all new original case and tools. Trade only with 5 strings Fodera. Specs: Model: 5TN Black Tiger 5 String BSR Body Style 3-Piece Body ~ Hight figured Walnut Top & Back, Tiger Maple Core Smith Secret Sauce, Oil Finish 5-Piece Neck ~ Aged Hard Rock Maple & Shedua Macassar Ebony Fretboard with 30" Radius 24 Frets Mother-of-Pearl Dot Fret Inlays Scalloped Brass Nut ~ Hand-Fit Nut-Width ~ 1-3/4" Matching Walnut Headstock Scale Length ~ 34" Gold Hardware Bridge ~ Smith QSR (Quick String Release) Machined solid brass Recessed Strap Locks Ken Smith Pickups Series/Parallel Switches wth NEW Smith BMT 3-Band 18-Volt EQ Circuit, with Adjustable DIP Frequency Switches for Bass, Mid & Treble, with Pickup Blend & Master Volume Control Fully Shielded Pickup & Control Cavities Smith Custom Flex Truss Rod Gold Gotoh/Ken Smith Tuners1 point
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I like the look of this bad boy, and would ya know, a pair of Neo mag Entwistle P pups. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Revelation-RPBX-Electric-Bass-Guitar-3-Tone-Sunburst-SALE/183765432804?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57478%26meid%3Df8ea12d699bf45619ca5455efb9f1ca5%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D254204770984%26itm%3D183765432804&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m18511 point
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I have a friend who builds lovely Violins etc. He mildly relics them because the Orchestral bods pure loves a bit of patina. It is not just us.1 point
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If there is a preamp idea floating around could I suggest the Fdeck circuit as the first stage of it? I have yet to plug anything into one which does not sound nicer because of it.1 point
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Looking good Tim, and I’ll bet it sounds as good as it looks. The bassist for the main band we’ on tour with us using a Terror and it’s a great sound.1 point
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Just got this footage back from a gig I did last month, I'm chuffed to bit's with it and I'd love to here what you all reckon. X1 point
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Hiho ,I,m similar,SP212 for space and OBC115 everywhere else and can use both when you want to level buildings.It,s the original head I,ve got ,full power 8 or 4 ohm and the Fixed DI.1 point
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Action will play a huge part in your perception of tension because a low action will require less pressure exerted to properly fret the string. When you fret a string you are effectively making it longer than its resting position, so the lower the action the less you need to stretch it, and by Hooke's law force required to stretch is proportional to the extension required.1 point
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I've kind of got 3 drum machines. The Roland R-8 (left) and the Alesis SR-16 (right) are the conventional ones. But I also have an Arturia Beatstep Pro triggering 4 drum synth modules (centre). The SR-16 is great for heavier, slightly un-natural, sounding drums. Perfect for industrially sounding tracks. The R-8 has really nice sounding natural stuff, but they can be edited more. Programming the R-8 is a lot nicer than the SR-16, I tend to midi them together and use the R-8 as a sequencer. The synth modules are totally electronic sounding, them being synths not sample based. They can, using a computer based editor, recreate most classic early drum machine sounds. There's one module each for bass drum, snare, hi hat and clap. The Alesis and Roland machines have taken a bit of a back seat since the synth ones have been in use. Space is getting cramped. I need to reorganise the whole working space. There's another desk behind me, when I was taking the photo.1 point
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Very well done, sir. At about 2:35 I felt like you were channeling Kate Bush era John Giblin, which is a good thing. 👏👏👏1 point
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One of my biggest wish was to owe a Gibson Thunderbird. When I read that Gibson was going to release runs of lefties throughout almost the whole range I decided to order one. Had to wait for four months and finally I got a mail of Thomann that the bass was on my way. I decided to share my impressions to you all. First impression: When I took the bass out of the case it fell light weighted. With the included strap I tried the balance of the bass. There's said a lot that these basses are neck heavy. But this is exaggerated. I have experience with Rics and these suffered much more of this phenomenon. Frets are leveled well. Finish is okay. It's a little wavy around where the body meets the neck. The bridge (Babicz) is massive and easily adjustable. Playability: This bass plays easily. The neck profile is comparable to a 60's Jazz Bass. Because the front strap button is placed at the heel of the neck the bass has the tendency to tilt forward. Not good for people who want to see the front of the fretboard while playing. For me it's fine. Sound: If you're into the organic sound of a P or a Ric you'll love this sound. While the sound is a little boomy, this is easily balanced out by tweaking the volume pots. The Babicz bridge adds lots of sustain. Finish: Like I said before the finish is okay. A little wavy on the body around the end of the fretboard. That's all. Conclusion: I love this bass. It's very attractive, very playable and has balls. While the finish isn't pristine, this bass is a keeper. Pictures pending.................1 point
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Ha ha yes I think they’re only branded as J&D in the UK due to our infantile humour 😉 My J&D is much better than than my HB. I can only compare the two models I own but the J&D was giggable straight out of the box. I even made a video as to why I think it’s the better bass I’ve got my eye on one of these now... https://www.musicstore.de/en_GB/GBP/Jack-Danny-Bass-guitar-PB-Vintage-1963-BK-Black/art-BAS0007156-0001 point