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Showing content with the highest reputation on 28/04/19 in all areas

  1. Thanks for all the comments and the support - much appreciated; and you were all right - it did go by in a flash and I went from terrified to hooked within the first track. I got called up and was very nervous - the sound check took a little longer than we had hoped as they tried to set up the in house PA and by the time everything was ready, people had started to arrive, so me going up for a play through would have blown the gag. So when I was called up I hadn't played at all so was cold, hadn't had the chance to iron out any wrinkles and I really should have discussed a few points before hand; to say I was nervous was an understatement - as I picked up my bass, I noticed my hands were visibly shaking and I tried to play Seven Nation Army riff to get everything moving and quick warm up and totally blanked (I can normally play that one in my sleep) - quick change for Hootchie Cootchie Man which worked then heard the singer and others asking if I was ready; which meant I had to be... First up Blockbuster as it's quite easy and first crash course in playing live. I'm waiting for the siren effect and drum to effectively count me in and the band jump straight in leaving me dead - jumped in on second bar and not too bad after that although the big drum solo went a bit wrong from my point of view (one of the things I should have discussed on how to handle) although the rest took it all in their stride. Second track Ballroom Blitz and I started to enjoy myself more although totally missed the start again. Drummer started great and I was then waiting for the singer to come round the band 'Ready Lawrence? Ready Ted? Ready Ash? Alright fellas, let's goooooo!' that sort of thing but again they jumped straight in. Caught up by bar two again and did ok - I moved on to one bit as per the track I had played to but the band extended this bit and I'm pleased to say I just went back to the previous line and joined in. Had to scramble a bit on on or two of the runs but did OK, then I got a bit too into the groove and timing of the main riff towards the end and totally missed the change in to the outro so just kept going with the ball-room-blitz riff I'd been playing until I could work out where and how to jump in; then realised the guitar player, Lawrence, was playing an absolutely incredible solo over the top of this and the drummer had locked in too. I just thought to myself 'Ok, I'll be the rhythm then' and carried on until I heard the guitar join in my Ball-room-blitz riff which I took to mean we were about to finish. Looked up when I heard some shouting on stage and the singer was holding up one finger (polite way round) so I'm thinking 'Finish after this riff? ... Yes we did! PHEW!' Final track 20th Century Boy - Nailed the start for once, absolutely loved playing along although I messed up some of my well rehearsed improvised fills 😉 but as many have said, I don't think anyone noticed. I even had time to look out and see my Son busting some moves on the dance floor during this one which was a nice moment. The ending of this one is a bit odd on the track and again the band did a fantastic job of relaying how to do it the way they normally do it (very different to the track but really effective) and we all nailed the stop. That was my 15 minutes over and all too soon too, but I will definitely be doing it again. Not sure if anyone videoed it but if any turns up, I'll post it. When you're related to most of the women in the room - and married to one - that WOULD be a problem!
    17 points
  2. Just a short one this time - both the thread and the bass A couple of weeks ago @tauzero contacted me to see if I was up for taking on a small job on his beautiful Sei headless: He explained the problem: "Six years ago, I dropped it in a gig bag and it landed on the lower edge of the bottom bout. Because the core is quite thin, there's not a lot of meat around the jack socket area, and the impact cracked the centre core and sheared it away from the front and back laminates" At the time @jayDee did the fix and - wow - FANTASTIC job! It was an invisible mend and, honestly, I STILL can't see the join! But in recent times a second problem has shown itself - a bit like @TheGreek 's Alembic-esque of a few years ago - the top wood had started cupping and had pulled itself away to form an impressive gap! : The lines on the core, by the way are just lacquer cracks - probably from the original impact. The failed glue joint of the top was probably weakened, although not visibly split, at that same time. Two of the challenges were: The cupping is strong. I could only JUST close the gap with both hands pressing as hard as I could. Again - a bit like @TheGreek 's The joint area - the control chamber goes very close to the edge - is very narrow round that curve. We are talking 10mm max - in fact before the curve levels off at the top The glue joint that had failed is actually the bottom of a 2mm wenge demarcation strip which further round you can see the crack has also split the wenge So the challenge, apart from working on such a beautiful and valuable bass, was how to find a glue that was going to be strong enough to hold the continuing considerable force of the top wood trying to pull itself away. And how to try to fill and level any rough and damaged bits of the crack edge. I gave it some thought and also bounced off my ideas on a pro-luthier friend, Rob Hodgson, who gave them the thumbs up. The glue? Old fashioned leave-it-all-night-to-harden Araldite original. This is much stronger than the Rapid version or other shorter set epoxies like ZPoxy, etc.. Filling and smoothing? Wenge sanding dust mixed in with the epoxy Application? Syringe for the main gap, encouraged in with some very thin cellophane, and then re-syringed This was a test mix before I added the wenge dust. I did LOADS of trials of shapes of cauls. The top and back cantilever over the control chamber so you have to be VERY careful not to apply pressure to the edges. There was already a hairline crack at the back, maybe from the original bump. So the back clamping caul needed to be as big as possible to spread the load: The clamping would be on the very edges, with a middle clamp to act as the fulcrum. As such, I could leave the electrics in place: Masked right up to the gap line and epoxy syringed in. I also wicked a couple of drops of CA into the disappearing gap at either side of the main crack to prevent future spread of the glue fail Then clamped, 3 clamps at medium pressure - until the gap closed but not much tighter than that - with the load balancing clamp nearer to the body centre: I removed the bulk of the squeeze-out and then left it the rest of the day and overnight to fully cure. Next morning, I gingerly loosened the clamps - and it had held! To smooth off the joint lines, I just used a single-edged razor as a mini scraper. Quick wipe of the scraped joint with Osmo-dampened cloth, and we have the fix: The top is the repaired one I'm well chuffed (and moderately to majorly relieved)
    8 points
  3. Used the Helix last night at fake Festival, what a bit of kit live!!!! Sounded epic through my rig and the mahoosive PA. Lots of comments about the sound. Love it!
    5 points
  4. Hello Basschat community! I am looking to sell my Wal Pro II E, 4 string lined fretless. It is a 1979 model. It came to me from London in April 2011, a month after Paul did the service on it at the Electric Wood company in Fetcham (I have the receipt for the work done at the bass). The bass is in Norway. As far as I know, I am the second owner of the bass. The price is 2.700 GBP. The Wal is in great condition. Original, no modifications as far as I can tell. Everything works on it and there is little to no marks or signs of wear - please check out the photos. It was never used outside my apartment since I’ve got it, as I am not active player, just a long time Wal admirer. It was well taking care of and it has never left my smoke free apartment. Comes with original brown Wal case. Sarah from Wal company replied to my e-mail about this bass: »The official date is August 1979 - so you were right. Listed as Pro2E Natural fretless. I have marked now where this one is now located. I can also confirm that the receipt you attached is a genuine one from us. Paul remembers seeing it well». Those who should be interested in buying it, please send me either a personal message here or an e-mail at [email protected]. Thanks.
    3 points
  5. Just a wee update for y’all I actually sold the bass to a Uni music student close to me and he demanded (!) I match the headstock and so I duly agreed. I also changed the capacitor on the tone pot, to give it more roll off, re-did the whole soldering (I did it tired last time) and it sounds way better and is rock solid. And a video of the scorched edges. E5D0F2FB-D2B8-4EBE-AF52-E629DB266EFF.MOV Happy now as the money can be re-invested into another build - and I am going to pay myself on the back a bit and say this chap got a decent bargain - it does sound good!
    3 points
  6. Beautiful! Bet that sounds glorious. Nice to see a lined fretless with dots ON the fret-lines. GLWTS
    3 points
  7. From left to right: 5000, 714bs, 1000ma, 3000ma, 2000, 3000, 1000ma 🙂
    3 points
  8. For the first time in years I’m Fender Precision-less. But with these two puppies I’m perfectly content so can’t justify the need or cost of a P. Old Smoothie and HH Special.
    3 points
  9. It was me Al Krow is referencing. A few facts to clear up his spurious claims as I believe I'm the best person to tell my experiences of yamaha or any other brand of bass Firstly I'm not Scottish, I'm Irish! I never 'avoided Yamaha for decades' I'm far to perspicacious to take such a blinkered view and my electric guitar is a Yamaha 611 model! I grew up in a very small town where two folks I knew had Yamaha bases -I just didn't really care that much for the aesthetic - that extended bridge saddle on the 5'ers was just wrong looking even if I understood the principle of it. Nor did I have the chatter of the internet and bass forums to assuage my decision making. I, under my own volition and of sound mind, chose to go to check out a used BB734A at a local guitar shop. I was not ambushed by it and had a very clear goal of going and playing it with a view to buying it. I wasn't happy with the price but found one much cheaper elsewhere and bought it on my way to collect another item of gear. When the TRBx series were released (in 2012/2013?) I checked them out and I was really impressed with the build quality and would have had no hesitation in recommending them to a new player and was tempted to get one myself - clean modern looks and good range of tones available enhanced with a clever little eq switch to influence the EQ curve (on some models). A fellow Edinburgh bass player raved about his higher end TRB but I never got a chance to try it. I've played the 1024/2024x and found the pick ups too overpowering and the single coil hum was a bit much. Now there's a pick up the could do with being changed out for a hum canceller! I gravitate to more traditional, passive bass shapes and styles as that's what I prefer but I've played many basses both, active and passive, and owned a few odd-balls too. I played an active Ibanez years back and around that time had the opportunity to do a recording where the producer suggested I play with an old passive Gibson and from listening back and asking questions on that 'session' I went out and managed to trade that Ibanez for a late 70's P - I just prefer the sound of a passive bass! The rationale of "You don't own one therefore you must not rate it" is a tad basic and often not reflective of ones 'bass journey'. As Al Krow will know I've had an external eq on my pedal board for years and I just prefer the added control my units provide with semi-parametric mids over the fixed points offered on many active basses, Sandberg included. I've owned Sandberg basses and while I'm not a 'fanboi' I do respect Holger the person, his attitude and ethos. He doesn't strike me as "No!" type of person. I'd hardly base his entire business outlook on the stock preamps and pick-up's he uses. Actually maybe we should... I guess he could out source his pre-amps to John East or his pick ups to DiMarzio but he appears to be using the German made gear of his neighbours which all forms part of the greater economy/ecoolgy of the local bass building community. As @mcnash has demonstrated if one were serious about getting a more personal spec a call or email to the factory or via a local dealer could have a pretty definitive answer in all of about 10 minutes.
    3 points
  10. That pic is some years old... happy days..
    3 points
  11. Aye, it's an XLR output - someone posted a link to an auction for Bruce's P-Bass in here some time ago. Here are some of the pics:
    3 points
  12. I'm looking at making a headed version of the mini bass. I'm planning on keeping it at 23" scale and the same body shape as the headless one (with a very slight tweak to the lower horn). I wasn't sure what to do with the headstock so I just went for the same design I have used on my recent semi hollow basses. To my eye, it seems to flow which is nice as it keeps something in common. This design would allow me plenty of options with regards to bridges which is always the difficult thing when going down the headless route.
    3 points
  13. Hi all, I bought this for a project that never went anywhere, glad I didn't buy the original! I only got it in February from PMT in London, you get the receipt and their warranty with it as well. The bass never left my flat and comes with new strings (EB Cobalt, 55gauge) and a brand new bag (from Thomann), the pickguard still has its plastic on. I previously had thinner strings on it and then I had buzz on the E-string. But with these now none whatsoever. Just in case you play thinner ones, you might need to take a look at the nut. Any questions, let me know. Happy to ship as well or meet in or around London. Udo
    2 points
  14. I'm going to be playing live for the first time ever this weekend, and I'm sure I'll love it once I'm done - but right now I'm brickin very nervous about the whole thing. I turned the big 5-0 last week and have organised a bit of a get together for family and friends to 'celebrate' lasting this long without too many bits falling off. My bass tutor is in a band and she's bringing them along to play and very kindly offered if I'd like to sit in on some tracks. Seemed a great idea at the time and I'm only doing three tracks from when I first got into music (Blockbuster and Ballroom Blitz by Sweet and 20th Century Boy by T-Rex), but as it gets closer three things keep springing to mind; 1- I've never played in a band before (only to tracks), 2- I've never played in front of a crowd and 3- The crowd will be made up entirely of family and friends. What could possibly go wrong? I've been on a heavy repeat system of practising and can now play them in my sleep (in fact, I think I may actually do that - certainly they are pretty much always bouncing round in my head) so hopefully I can just go with the flow - just need to get there and get it done, then I'll probably enjoy it a lot more. I'll let you all know how it goes. Wish me luck, I feel like I may need it! 🙂
    2 points
  15. Up for sale is my Jon Shuker 5 String Jazz built for me in 2013. It has a couple knocks and bumps having toured the world with me but nothing obvious from the front. Villex pickups and electronics with passive mid cut make for a very versatile sound. It’s not the lightest bass ever made, but plays and sounds great. Comes with it’s original Hiscox hard case, or will knock some off if you want it in a generic gigbag. £925 collected from Chingford, London.
    2 points
  16. Sold!!! Just picked up this amazing Fodera Monarch Victor Wooten Classic recently but I’m just more at home on a 33” scale 5 string so I’ve decided to let it go as it’s a shame to just have this just sitting at home and not getting much use. This bass was made in 2005 but it could nearly pass as brand new as it’s in excellent condition (I could only find one small ding on the upper horn!) The wood for the fingerboard also came from the same batch as the one used on Victor Wootens original Monarch #37! It also has an amazing upgraded Buckeye Burl topwood that is one of the nicest I’ve ever seen! This went through the Fodera Certified Preowned program back in about 2010 so has the newer Fodera/Pope Preamp that can have the frequencies adjusted by moving little jumpers inside. Signed by Victor Wooten on the back of the headstock!! Comes with a Fodera Teardrop case. Gotoh drop D tuner installed but comes with the regular Fodera tuner too I’m not really looking for trades but might consider a 33” Fodera Monarch 5 or Imperial 5 (with 24 frets)! Specs for the Buckeye VW Classic Monarch 4: Body Woods: Monarch Mahogany Body Buckeye Burl Top (Solid) Neck Woods: Indian Rosewood Fingerboard 3-pc. Hard Rock Maple Mother-of-Pearl Dot Inlays with Tulips on 12th and 24th Frets Construction Specs: Birth Date – September 2005 Dovetail Construction 34″ Scale Length 4 String Configuration 24 Frets (Large) Electronics Options: Fodera / Pope Custom Preamp EMG P/J Pickups Monarch Control Layout Weight - 8.9lbs
    2 points
  17. I bought this bass on basschat: Wonderful bass in good condition, sounds absolutely phenomenal, IMO the best fretless on the market!
    2 points
  18. The much bigger effect would be the effect of the body vibrations on the overtones created in the strings affecting the timbre subtleties in the waveforms picked up by the pickups (whether or not you believe that those differences are audible). As a science geek of decades long-standing this has fascinated me for ages. People tend to underestimate the strength of sympathetic vibrations and resonances. The videos of randomly started pendulums and metronomes synchronising themselves through sympathetic vibration are hypnotic to watch... The vibrations from each metronome through the table force the synchronisation. But my favourite example is the Tacoma narrows bridge video. Wind whistling across the wires and the deck of a suspension bridge was just right to hit a frequency which resonated. That amplified the vibration in the substructure which fed back into the bridge amplifying it even further... and so on... because the bridge designers never thought to build damping into the bridge this ran out of control until it tore the bridge apart. Just through the wind blowing across it (it was only about 20 or 30mph, not a gale’ blowing across the bridge). I love this video... esp the 1940s histrionic newsreel voiceover
    2 points
  19. Shouldn't you knit one pearl one?
    2 points
  20. 2012 Musicman Stingray Classic 5, in retro-burst. Birdseye maple neck with really lovely grain. Weighs around 4.4Kg. Has that funky, punchy, old school 2 band Ray tone Around £2400 new these days... In excellent condition, no dings or chips in the finish anywhere. The odd light scratch but nothing I can really get to show up in pictures. There is a thin layer of clear varnish on the pole pieces to keep them clean (as recommended by EB), and very slight tarnishing where this has come off on a couple of them. I bought this on basschat last year - it came without the mute assembly, but I have since bought and fitted one from someone who was parting out their own Classic 5. Comes in original Musicman case. Can ship anywhere in the UK. More pictures available on request.
    2 points
  21. Unusually and surprisingly there are a few Pro 2es for sale right now ... but this is the best looking IMHO ... and the price is nice too!
    2 points
  22. Great review, thanks! @dmccombe7 - Dave if you decide you are interested in Yammys the above little review is a very well put together comparison of a couple of the 'work horse' models.
    2 points
  23. His brother Tony has done alright for himself apparently.
    2 points
  24. There are some amazing BBs in this thread. I just made a comparison video between my BB1025X and BB434. The process of making the video made me really appreciate the differences between the basses. Yamaha BB434 vs BB1025X
    2 points
  25. Think you have everything more than covered with them two ! Very nice. Stingray HH is next on my GAS list
    2 points
  26. There is an export button on the top left (I think) of HX edit. I have my patches saved on my mac
    2 points
  27. Anthony Jackson and Horacio Hernandez.
    2 points
  28. I once auditioned for a band where the guitarist insisted that every note played, sung or struck had to be identical to the original. He used a Kemper and spent ages moaning that patches claiming to be the "Hendrix" sound or "Gilmour from The Wall era" weren't right and he needed to model his own. I didn't get the gig (largely because i wasn't good enough in those days) but i came away feeling i'd dodged a massive bullet. I then spent years learning bass lines by rote - years that improved my finger strength and dexterity but taught me nothing about how to structure a bass line as all I ever did was regurgitate the parts without analysing them. Lessons with a brilliant teacher helped me get past this and taught me to develop the right part for the particular combination of band and song. His example was Living On A Prayer. You have to play That Riff. It's expected and an integral part of the song. But no-one really cares what you play in the chorus so long as it drives the song along. I've played in a 3 piece band where there's a lot of "space" and the bass has to cover some of the melodies or fills that were played by keys or strings on the original. I've also played in a five piece where the guitarist and keyboard player are filling the musical canvas and i have to rein it back to simple, supportive bass lines. So, unless you're in a tribute band, covers can be as close or as far from the original as you like provided they're played well. The acid test is whether the audience enjoy listening to them. Other opinions are available and equally valid
    2 points
  29. Aston and Carlton Barrett Sly & Robbie Stanley Clarke & Lenny White Victor Bailey & Omar Hakim John Pattitucci & Dave Weckl Tony williams & Ron Carter Poogie Bell & Marcus Miller. Phil Lynott & Brian Downey
    2 points
  30. Nah you sound fine buddy! If you know what you want specifically then yes it can be easy and you can ‘risk’ or spend money new. In the other hand the second hand market can be relatively buoyant so that once something has dropped in price after being new, Trying it out leads to negligible if any money loss unless it’s hammered. It could be one of those ones where you keep an eye out for an interesting set to you - if they come up - grab em, have a go, then you know!
    2 points
  31. Think where i'm coming from on the pick up change thing is that i have no real experience or knowledge of the replacement ones on the market. Altho not hugely expensive for a reasonable set for say a PJ bass maybe typically £100 set and then a pre-amp maybe much the same. So a total of £150 - £200 would get you an ok set for a bass. If they work and are exactly what you had hoped for then all good. On the other hand if they aren't what you expected you need to sell them 2nd hand and look for something else. There's a lot of ick ups out there and it could be a never ending story. McNach - you've obviously had a fair bit of trial and error as you know what ones you like or prefer and they are the "relatively" cheaper ones compared to some. I'm quite happy setting my basses up and doing all the intonation, neck, string height, pick up height etc but once you get into the pick ups and pre-amps its like a busmans holiday for me. Of course i'm retired now and have a lot more time so it shouldn't really be a prob for me these days and i have considered changing them on my Overwater J4 and my Fender PJ. The Overwater is a nice bass to play but the pick ups i'm not overly keen. It has the Joh East pre-amp with V, Bal, T & B pots but i'm not sure if its the pick ups or the pre amp or maybe both and at some point i might take the plunge and experiment a bit but i have no idea what will work best fro me in that bass. I don't want to change the woodwork myself but i did consider asking Chris at McIntyre Guitars for some advice and help fitting them if need be. I'm just not too sure and with getting the Sandberg recently its put me off bothering. Jings i sound like a right lazy git after reading this Dave
    2 points
  32. Charles Mingus and Dannie Richmond
    2 points
  33. A sneak preview of the stunning top, and a test fitting of the control cavity plate and string ferrule block:
    2 points
  34. All sadly died of boredom !
    2 points
  35. Really enjoying this little basses!! I'm going to make a couple more of these but also have a couple of other ideas I'll try at some point. I'll make a slightly longer scale one (27.5") and I'm also looking at a headed version. I've done a couple of scribbles for this and I think it could look rather nice (same body shape as before but a change to the neck pocket shape). Just need to find the time, which is the hard bit!!
    2 points
  36. I'm having great fun mixing and matching cabs trying to find the sweet spot for smaller gigs. Just arrived at my hotel after a night with this set up in a pub in Swindon. The TE 210 honking away atop a rumbling MB 115. No idea what it sounded like out front as we didn't have a sound check. Sounded great to me from where I was standing though. My latest idea is to build a flat pack velcro together, dummy TE cab with a Barefaced hidden inside. Genius idea. If I say so myself.
    2 points
  37. Hello I sell a Fbass VF 6 bought on December 2011. Absolute new condition, 10/10. Never played outside home. Original F Bass gig bag included. Here are the specs: Body Wood: Alder Finish: Sunburst Neck: 1 Piece Slab Maple Fingerboard: Rosewood + Pearloid Face Dots Nut Style: Bone Nut Width: 54mm (2 1/8") Width at Last Fret: 94mm (3 11/16") Truss Rod: Two-way, 4mm ( 5/32" ) Scale: 34.5" Bridge: Bent L Plate String Spacing: 19mm Tuners: Gotoh, GB70, mini with 20:1 ratio Pickups: Two F Bass Single Coil Vintage Pickups (60's Bridge PU Position) Weight: 10lbs 3oz (4.6 kgs). The bass is located in the North of France (collection is possible near Calais, Boulogne sur mer, Lille...). Price: £2700 or 3130€
    1 point
  38. Back up for sale are my pair of German made Warwick cabs I purchased brand new from Electromusic in Doncaster. I have gigged with them ever since and have never missed a beat and have been absolutely reliable. These cabs are both 300 watts and are both 8 ohms each. I have used them with a variety of amps over the years, Ampeg/Orange/Mesa/Trace Elliot and currently a Gallien Kruger MB 800 fusion. Both cabs are in very good condition for their age. I still have the yellow Warwick logos for both cabs but never stuck them on the front of the grills as I liked the look of them without. The dimensions are - Top Cab 2x8 speaker is 21 wide, 13.5 deep, 14 High. Bottom Cab 1x15 speaker is 21 wide, 13.5 deep and 21 high. They are both very portable and easy to handle. Pick up only and cash or Paypal with you paying the charges please.
    1 point
  39. Up for sale or trade is my stunning Shuker Single Cut built in Jan 2014. I traded my Conklin Custom for this bass in 2016 with LukeCapon off here. Jon Shuker makes some very high quality basses and this is no exception on the design, fit and finish. A new one of these would set you back around £3k. It is in excellent condition with only minor marks / swirls from playing and comes with a hard case. I'm open to partial / full trades. Let’s see what ya' got. Alder body with buckeye facings and black veneer between top and body 34" scale currently tuned B to G Angled headstock with buckeye veneer - front and rear Gotoh tuners 7 piece maple / black veneer laminated set neck. 20.5mm deep at 1st fret, 22.5 at 12th, shallow 'C' section Two way truss rod with carbon fibre reinforcement Rosewood fretboard with 26 medium frets and 45mm brass nut Mother of pearl face and side dots Nordstrand Big Split pickups Shuker 3 band preamp: treble, mid cut / boost and mid freq stack, bass, pan, vol (pull passive) Schaller 2000 bridge, set at 18mm string spacing (can adjust from 17 to 19mm) Weight 8.6lbs / 3.9kg
    1 point
  40. Don't despair, take a bit of time away and come back refreshed. This is beautiful, I wish you good luck.
    1 point
  41. I guess you could set up so you see all three on one single page (although a crowded one) on the paid-for app. We haven't attempted any customisation yet - something to do soon. The fun is still to come...
    1 point
  42. Nowt much to report, just sorted the mudbucker I’d cocked up while the Mrs was getting ready to go out. spliced the wire, re-soldered and heat shrunk. Quick test. All good. think I’ll get it to rehearsal tomorrow as long as the postie gets me my machine heads.
    1 point
  43. The HH’s Specials are so versatile. They get you into the territory of a Jazz, P, Sabre & EBO, depending on EQ settings or amps etc. Sure you’ll love it
    1 point
  44. You can't go wrong with Chris McIntyre. It's true, I know what I know because of a large period of trial and error, with focus on error I used to check eBay and later this forum for used pickups and preamps etc and buy stuff that looked interesting at reasonable prices. It meant that I could try things and sell them on if I decided not to keep them without losing (much) money. But again, that only makes sense if you enjoy that kind of thing and the idea of spending one Saturday afternoon testing pickups makes you smile. I understand a lot of people just want to get on with things. It kept me off the streets getting into trouble... or buying new instruments 😛
    1 point
  45. It's a fantastic repair - picking it up on Wednesday (hopefully). I did the original damage about 7 years ago - gig bag slipped out of my hand as I transferred it from one hand to the other, and it landed smack on that corner below the control cavity. I think moisture may have wicked in from my sweaty mitts to cause the top to bend a little.
    1 point
  46. Probably at my own funeral. Dates TBA. 😃
    1 point
  47. Haven’t a clue who most of the guys are. Are they all great? I’ll throw these in from my side of the fence:- Sam Jones, Louis Hayes Ray Brown, Ed Thigpen Anyone who ever powered the Basie band.
    1 point
  48. John Densmore, and Ray Manzarek's left hand
    1 point
  49. I'd say you dodged a bullet there Don, I've heard you sing at one of Lester's bashes...you are just like me!!!
    1 point
  50. Selling this on for what I paid for it, decided I don't need a delay, lights up all nice n that, draws 100mA approx on a pedal board. Only tested so effectively brand new, one on Amazon at £150!! £55 inc UK shipping Deep Space Delay with Tails, Chorus, TrueByPass and Expression Input (Delay) Deep Space Chorus and Delay with Tails has a master Stomp switch which enables to be switched to True ByPass when pedal not required and 2 SoftTouch switches one for Delay with Tails and the other for the lush rich Chorus. Rate LED has pulsing glow and when in TrueByPass. Delay has soft touch bypass which enables the echo’s to finish and sound more natural. The Chorus has a rich lush 12 string feel and can be switched in or out, again with soft touch switching. The Buffer is there to accommodate the Tails for the Delay but is also useful as a Buffer even without the Delay or Chorus. However, you can simply switch to TrueByPass if you want too! (Standard Stomp Switch, centred) You can also get some really spacie and freaky sounds with the passive Expression input. I used a Passive Moog EP-3 Universal Expression Pedal to test. So you have it......THREE pedals in one where you can mix and match chorus with delay or each on their own or simply use the buffer to drive your signal through other pedals a must if you have more than one pedal on your board! So lots of choice and great addition to your crowded pedalboard. Pedalboard power supply strongly recommended
    1 point
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