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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/05/20 in all areas
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Selling this fantastic clean and 100% original '72. maple board bass. Early '70 Fender basses are the lightest in this decennium and so is this one: approx. 3700 grams on my kitchenscale. A-neck(!), original ashtrays and thumbrest and OHSC. Frets, truss rod, electronics wtc. Everything is perfect. Plays like butter sounds fenomenal. Have to kill darlings and hardly play four strings so this one has got to go.7 points
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Selling my GB Spitfire 4-string bass that was built by Bernie Goodfellow. It is in great condition and got a fret dress and a general setup by my local luthier some months ago. I am the second owner of this bass. There are some little signs of wear, but nothing really important. The bass is neck through, which is not standard for a Spitfire, and has a beautiful buckeye burl top, GB Single Coil pickups, 18V GB electronics with 3-band eq and boost switch (for highs and lows) as well as GB Pulse which indicates the state of the two 9V batteries. It is equipped with black hradware, a Schaller 3D-4 bridge and Hipshot tuners and a D-Tuner for the E-string. The 2nd battery compartment was forseen for the Leds that were not installed in the end. It comes in its original Hiscox GB Guitars branded hardcase. The bass is located in Italy, no trades please. I can ship to the UK and all other EU-countries, shipping with insurance is included in the sales price. Any questions let me know, thanks for looking.7 points
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SOLD PRICE DROP TO £230 that's over two Trace Elliot watts to the pound. Ever decide to sell something only to get a sick feeling inside when you get to it? Never understand why folk don't just keep the darn thing. Well in my case it's because I spent the money already. So here goes. Trace Elliot AH500X in used, gigged and worn cosmetic condition. But still able to do the job it was made for. Loud fan which has a quiet setting for those worried about such things. White caps missing from Graphic on/off and Mid cut controls, both work fine (see video) Heavy. I will post it but it won't be cheap. Socially distant pick up is available. So what's under the bonnet? Two Trace Elliot 250 watt amps. Doesn't sound much does it? Ever heard a single 250 watt Trace kicking it out? Trust me you won't forget hearing two. You can use both inputs and run them into their own speaker systems. You can use both amps with an internal crossover and send the upper frequency to a small cab and the lower to a big un. This how I use it. Each output is individually adjustable and it is a thing of wonder. Alternatively select mono bridged and put that GP 11 MK5 preamp through them together. Video - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p-YjDfQDy6WUIWU7KsTf0k3pHwhWnDlN/view?usp=sharing Headphones advised! Bass content6 points
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It's cut, drilled, filled and painted, although the lacquer needs doing again but shhh 😄, so this is just a mock up but a Precison body, lefty Jazz neck and Ray hardware works. I'll lacquer it again tomorrow and then rebuild time. 🙂6 points
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Didn't get round to the hatch magnets yesterday. Instead, I went for something much more scary! Fitting the stoptail. Now this really is a measure 15 times, drill once. This - and the ToM bridge is even worse - has to be right. I used my little drill press to drill the 11mm holes and then also used the drill press chuck to press them in: I still have to drill the earth wire hole and fit the wire, so will be removing the lower bout insert soon (Tip about removing inserts/bushes, assuming they are open ended - get a bolt of the correct size, screw it in until it bottoms on the body wood at the bottom of the hole, use a spanner to carry on screwing and it will lift the insert gently out). In terms of finding the insert hole from the control chamber with my earth-wire drill bit, I have a cunning plan. Just got to remember what on earth that might have been But, challenges aside, it's starting to look like a guitar: Now that I have the stoptail and tuners in place, I can pop a spare 6th and 1st string on and position the bridge to make sure that it is lined up with the fretboard. Then the last really scary bit after checking the measurements, oh, probably 35 times? - drilling for the bridge inserts6 points
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5 points
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I've been very busy doing DIY board layouts lately. More like onboard preamps and a bass amp board retrofit than effects per se, but this thread seems the closest in spirit, I think. So: New three band preamp that went into my Marco Bass MV fretless a week or so ago: And the new main preamp board for my 500 watt DIY bass amp build from 2015: Which is waiting on an opamp shootout tomorrow before completion and installation, which I hope to have done by week's end. There's a new daughtercard containing a one band full parametric EQ and a variable high pass filter as well.5 points
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5 points
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5 points
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I'm putting up for sale this gorgeous GB Spitfire 5 String. I picked this up in a trade recently as I didn't get on with my 35" scale Lakland and it confirms it for me, I have been playing 34" scale for such a long time that I find the transition uncomfortable and therefore I won't play it. Not only that, for some reason I seem to have entered a real vintage phase... who knows where that will take me. From what I understand, this has some history on Basschat. The person i got it from got it from here so I know it has had at least 2 previous owners on here. It does have a few knocks and dinks but Pete who owned it before me, sent it to Bernie and had the neck completely refinished, the electronics serviced and updated plus a general overhaul. I believe he spent just over the £300 having this done. So, the neck is immaculate. Pretty much as new. The body does have some dinks and marks and I have tried to photograph them, but to be honest with the natural, lacquered finish they certainly aren't obvious. It's a great player and an amazingly built bass. Top sound capabilities, very versatile and like many basses of this ilk, modern sounding. Having said that, I did manage a cracking precision type sound the other day. Typical GB build with Bernie's electronics and pickups. It has the battery indicator which is really useful. Quilted maple top, the birds eye on the neck and fingerboard is absolutely gorgeous and with the refinish, it really looks special. If I was keeping it I would look at having the body refinished... it would look like new and I had quotes between 200-300£ to have this done. At this point it would be worth a lot more in my eyes. Priced on Bernie's website, it would, in Pete's words, "be the thick end of 3 grand" so feel free to have a look on his website. Feel free to ask any questions and I will answer them as best as I can. I haven't owned it long and a P bass is on it's way to me soon so it does have to go - damn GAS! Case wise, I don't have the official case but currently it is in my GruvGear Sliver gig bag. A deal could be arranged to include that (it is a pricey bag), you could post an empty case or I can try and find something locally to send it in. Postage should be around £30 fully insured. I'm happy to consider trades (34" basses please) and have no real idea what I would consider so feel free to throw ideas at me. I would definitely consider something funky colour wise (no Jazz basses though - I have a Sei which covers that) although something with a P or Jazz pup at the neck with a MM at the bridge could be good. I do love a Stingray... 4 or 5 string... who knows! Obviously a cash sale is also great! I would also be up for a partial trade with cash as well...4 points
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These crop up only once in a blue moon - so Jumped on it as I’m doing lots of remote recordings for a singer/songwriter who asked if I had a DB... I recorded with my fretless J and it sounded great. But missing a bit of that thud. Was planning on a fretless neck for my 75p, and then before I knew it - offers to buy came in and one person in particular absolutely deserves it (YOB etc) As this was going on - just had a quick look online and found this. ”collection only” bah...In Bristol. “hang on @Cuzzie is in Bristol and we talk regularly” i thought ...asked the question...GO! It’s a 1991 ish Fender Japan PBAC-100fl. Catchy eh? About to be collected by DPD to arrive in the next few days.4 points
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Atelier Z M245, hand made in Tokyo. I've owned a few Atelier Z basses in the past, a Beta, Beta Deluxe but none of them compare to this. The M245 is their top of the range instrument and it is an absolute stunner. IMO It combines everything good about a 70's Fender (i.e. Ash, blocks, binding, girthy sound) but without the downsides (i.e.ridiculous weight, terrible build quality!). It comes complete with the Bartolini XTCT preamp that features dual stacked pickup volume controls, vintage tone control, bass and treble controls with a mid sweep in the control cavity. Combined with Atelier Z's own single coil pickups it sounds immense. Despite it's 70's vibe and chunky hardware it weighs just 8.6lbs! It comes complete with the nice Atelier Z gig bag shown. It has a couple of small lacquer dings and some discolouration patches but on the whole it's in great condition. Specs: Scale 34" Neck Maple1P Fingerboard Maple20F Body Ash2P Tuningkey GOTOH GB-30 Bridge ATELIER Z BB419 Pickups ATELIER Z JBZ-4 Preamp Bartolini XTCT+Spectrum boost Controls 2Vol.Treble,Bass/sw(Active ON/OFF) Color N Price ¥275,000(without tax)4 points
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Ah yes, one of two working titles for a Pink Floyd album. I believe they chose the other one......4 points
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I would assume that they would have told you if you needed IEMs or didn't need to bring an amp. 90% of the bands doing the gigs you describe are using their own back line and vocals only PA systems. You are well set up for that scenario. You are right to be gathering information with the intention to hit the ground running, but don't spend any money until you've spoken to the band and had at least one rehearsal.4 points
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For the bridge, now I have the stop-tail in place, I can fit a couple of strings and get the bridge in exactly the right position both for string-to-fretboard-edge distance and, of course, intonation. For the latter, I wind the top E string saddle fully forward and place that at the scale length and then wind the bottom E fully back and ensure that there are a couple of mm adjustment possible behind the 'normal' offset of around 5mm. This way, if I have a cumulative build error of up to 1mm somewhere, it's still going to fully intonate. And then same process - drill on the drill-press, press the inserts in and pop the bridge on the pegs to make sure it all fits as it should: And finally, another mockup Bit of decorating tomorrow, but might be able to either make a start on the fret levelling or maybe sort the control positions4 points
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Yes. on the L6 website it states that although all units use the same file format, each has to support all the blocks and features in the patch. You can load them in to HX Native if you have it, then take out the amps and cabs etc. I think it would be pointless though as these are integral to the overall sound. Still, might give a good starting block. I did a few screen shots for Paul earlier so might as well post them here as well. Duff HX.pdf Synth 1 HX.pdf Billy HX.pdf Joe Dart HX.pdf4 points
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If you decide to go down the route of getting a separate DI box, you really can't go wrong with one of these - https://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Behringer-BDI21-V-Tone-Bass-Preamp/6LV Based on the Sansamp Bass Driver, but over £200 cheaper! I bought one to back up my Sansamp and it's fantastic. For £22 it's a no brainer to stick in your gig bag.4 points
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Was it supposed to end up with you owning a turnip of your very own somewhere in the countryside?4 points
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He is a nice man that Jon Willis and he has shared all his presets. His goal was to see if with one bass and a helix you can recreate a multitude of tones practically on the button. He done alright and has showcased them here. Good example of what spending time with a machine can deliver.4 points
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If you are playing a pub, use your backline and forget mic'ing up or Di'ing. It's overkill and completely un needed. Keep it simple and you will end up with a more balanced, clearer set up.I have been down this route where we grew bigger and bigger and we finally realised we were kidding ourselves and had gear for the sake of it. It's not the Albert hall you are playing. It is refreshing to use simple backline after being caught in the mire of trying to be too professional.4 points
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With your backline you'll never have the need to DI in pubs or even small venues. You have plenty of power, you'll just need to tweak the amp a little to fit the room. Easy. 👍4 points
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4 points
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Ranking the 100 Best bass players is as credible as ranking the 100 Best colours.4 points
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A lovely example of a mid/late 70s fretless Precision, and at a sensible weight, just 9.75 lbs. The 3-Tone Sunburst is really crisp, and the black p/g works well with it (even though I'm personally a fan of tort with 3TS). Rosewood fingerboard is completely unmarked, and has a delightful, mellow tone & feel. This is a very rewarding bass to play. Similarly, the neck is unmarked and shows no wear at all. Fender dates are notoriously ... erm ... imprecise, but this came to me as a 1976 while the serial number suggests either 1977 or 1978. I don't do the whole completely-dismantle-the-bass-and-photograph-the-bobbins thing, but if you buy the bass then you're welcome to come and dismantle it with me at my studio. All in all, this is a lovely bass in pristine condition, and priced to sell. The bass is in Harrow (NW London) and I am happy to deliver in person or meet halfway (depending on distance), doing so in a civically-responsible socially-distanced sort of way if you prefer. Alternatively, I have appropriate boxes plus plenty of bubble-wrap available and I'm equally happy to post using DPD as courier.3 points
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Four jack sockets, three switches, three opamps, two pots and one 9V battery in a box not much bigger than a tv remote. It's a: Hi-Z buffer with switched gain + 18dB/octave fixed frequency HPF + headphone driver + passive headphone monitor mixer with volume limiter, and I don't think all that would fit in the title box. The circuit evolved as I built it, so I have not got an accurate copy yet. If there's any interest, I can sort one out. David3 points
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Up for sale is my 1995 Crafted in Japan Fender Jazz 1962 Reissue in Olympic white with matching headstock. It looks amazing and plays great. Everything is working perfectly, truss rod turns freely, pickups, bridge and electrics are original. This was originally a fotoflame finish but, as is their way, the finish cracked badly so it’s been stripped back and professionally refinished in nitrocellulose Olympic white. The headstock has been finished in matching white and the decal, although replaced, has no visible outline. It’s had a full set up too with fret level, crown and polish, lemon oil treatment, relief, intonation and action set so it plays very well. It’s had an after market 4 ply 62 tort reissue pickguard and some new rotosound rounds fitted too. So it’s 25 years old, a Japanese crafted 62 reissue and it plays and looks new! I have a case and if this sells before my Yamaha then it comes in a very good semi rigid foam case. If the Yamaha goes first then it has comes in a decent gig bag. I’d take a part trade where cash is my way. If there was a Squier vintage mod or classic vibe 70s jazz out there then that would be perfect. Thanks for looking. Better photos on their way tomorrow.3 points
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Hey nash I did this very thing and it’s a great option for a p bass. Here’s demo I made... What did I like and what didn’t I like... As you can tell from the demo I used a tone styler in mine and frankly I don’t think it would have been as good a mod without it. For me the only issue was it didn’t sound like a p bass but then again that was the point but the TS10 does some neat tricks to add back in some p bass like mids if you want or need them... The PBird stood out for the unique quality it has in its tone and while I wasn’t ripping things up in a metal trio the versatility of the pick up and the tone styler (it can do balls out and it can do dub with a mid setting which will just work for you once you find the right position) meant I used this bass on a host of gigs and could always find a sound which worked from country to rock. I’ve not tried to describe the sound as the demo will take care of that I hope.3 points
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A mockup, of sorts. This paint is still super soft, really will need weeks before i can do anything serious. going to skip the fancy top coat and just get this playing. it looks nice with the black white contrast. I can always get neon strings if i think it's looking weak.3 points
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https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10110626467286196&id=25327743 points
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Yes - the intonation is always going to be longer than the scale. Easiest way of seeing it is that when you press the string down to the fret, you are effectively bending it down to the fret in just the same way as we bend strings sideways for pitch change. And it will always go sharp. The amount it goes sharp is affected by the string tension and the action height (ie, the amount you are vertically bending). It's never going to go flat. And therefore the saddle is never going to need to be in a position that is shorter than the scale length. On your Fender BBOT - exactly the same3 points
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3 points
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The key to pub gigs for me is travelling light. As others have said you don’t need tonnes of gear. Sounds like you have a decent amp head and cab and that’ll be plenty for most gigs. I hardly ever go thru the PA and I’m a loud player. I use a 500w Markbass head and I’ve never run out of power at a small or medium sized gig. Pubs are often in city centres etc with difficult parking, poor load ins etc so bear that in mind. Keep it simple, travel light and just enjoy yourself.3 points
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It's like getting a star for a 5 metre swim, so that five metre is not quite a 5 metre as you need to push yourself off then float before you stop. So you only actually swim 2 metres the most. Go ahead , plenty of emojis please to boost my watts. Thank you3 points
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Can't help with the technical bit, but reading through the threads on this site, perhaps remove the tort pickguard?3 points
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2 points
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I don`t know whats all the fuss is about. They sold me a cracker of a Funder P bass last year!2 points
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2 points
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And if you have high nuts and a low action then please join me for a chorus of Saturday Night Fever. One two three and.. "Well you can tell by the way I sing and squark.."2 points
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I owned a Bacchus P bass for a while. Great bass, dimensionally slightly smaller that a Fender and much lighter. Very well made indeed and is one of the MIJ Woodline Series. (this was2 points
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In my last band they insisted on IEM only (no amps at all) and the PA to the audience. I struggled to hear the bass so used my 350w rig as a monitor after a couple of difficult gigs and the difference was worth the lugging.2 points
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Yes! It does look a bit like that! Swap the neck with the Squier -- it'll look even more like the Yamaha!:2 points
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2 points
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This ^^^^^^ And I was wrong about the headstock. As it's reverse (always cool), I now think it looks better than if it was 3+1 (or actually 1+3 in reverse position). If my left handed son ever loses interest in the bass, I'm having the neck off his LH Bass Collection Jazz.2 points
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RGB colour changing LEDs. Genius.2 points
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If you don't have, or can't be bothered to fire up, native then this web based helix preset viewer can sometimes do the trick... https://dbagchee.github.io/helix-preset-viewer/2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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Hm - if you love Warwick and Ibanez most I'm inclined to refer a Spector due to similar narrower string spacing etc. Otherwise, Sadowsky... and well in a different vibe I've got a couple Merlos in the marketplace (4 and 5) at a ridiculous price for handmade instruments. If you're not sure of the investment, a Spector Euro would always return the money and you've got a couple around facebook and here for 1300 ish.2 points
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2 points