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Showing content with the highest reputation on 26/05/20 in all areas

  1. I thought of any other of my bass stuff to sell to fund either an SVT or V4B but this is the one with the most value in it and that is used the least. A stunning 1978 Tokai Hard Puncher precision bass in 3 tone sunburst, black guard, ash body and maple neck with original japanese hardcase and original japanese case candy/hang tags. Comes fitted with an upgraded junction box type wiring harness and a Seymore Duncan SPB-1. Fitted with flatwounds and sounding every bit like a 70’s p bass should. Has all the expected age wear with the chrome bridge and tuners nicely pitted but fully functions and nice surface wear (real not reliced) but no major dings or dongs. Could do with a set up, the D and A have a few choked notes right up at the dusty end but I dont really venture up there but want to mention it. I had planned to take it to Jacks Instrument Services in Manchester before the lockdown. Collection would be from Bolton (or meet ups possible) where she can be tested. Not really keen on posting as i really want any buyer to see and play the bass in the flesh. Trade/part ex wise id consider an Ampeg V4B valve head or at a push an SVT-VR but cash is king.
    11 points
  2. Essentially, he left his meat and now he can't have any pudding.
    9 points
  3. Often, depending on the wood and degree of figuring, the veneer will split and those splits need filling. Now, as it happens, this veneer seems to be very crack resistant, so the only major area I will need to use filler to make sure there is no gap whatsoever at the join line. For a natural veneer, filling is easy - pop some tru-oil on, slurry it up into a paste with some wet and dry and you have instant sandings-coloured gap filler. But that's not so easy if you are staining. For this job, this is wonderful, wonderful stuff: Last time I looked, I had to search hard to find the stainable versions (there's a light and a med/dark) but decent builders merchants or joiners merchants should stock it. 'Stainable' here means that you can mix stain into it (water or spirit) and also, to an extent it will absorb stain in its dry form. The great thing is that it is easy to apply but dries rock solid (including in the opened tub!) but you just need to add a drop of water and it will soften up again. So - as I have had this tub for a few years, I literally chiselled some scrapings of the solid filler into some of the red stain, and I instantly have a fully colour-compatible filler: So I leave that to dry (about 30 mins) and then sand it down and any gaps are colour-filled So what stains am I using? Well, those who have followed my previous threads know that I favour inks. Yes, yes, I know that everyone (especially guitar dye manufacturers) will say "They'll fade!" And yes, some colours do. But other colours are pretty stable. Especially calligraphy inks, which are designed to remain fully legible for hundreds (if not thousands - think Lindisfarne Gospels) of years. And the particular colour in the particular calligraphy ink that I am using for Rog's, I actually know, is fine. How do I know? Because this guitar that I built for our band's bassist, hmmm, 8 - 9 years ago?, and which is kept on a stand in his house next to a South facing glass patio door and which - before Covid - he was using to accompany my dubious sax and singing every week , definitely still looks like this...and used the same ink : ...and there are others. So these are the inks I'll be using on Rog's Status: I don't go for the technique of staining black, then sanding off - the results can look a little artificial and forced. I just do a couple of coats, let them dry, and sand lightly to lighten the high spots in the figuring and then add the final couple of coats. This is where @Roger2611 has to look away, because he will say, 'Where did that figuring go? And know I said I wanted red, but that red is too...too...well, too red!!!' To which my answer is, "Don't panic." Because, with quilts, it ALL happens with the gloss coats. And the more the gloss coats that there are, the more that happens This is just with the very first sealing coat - it's not even gloss yet... : When this sealing coat is dry, I will then sand the sides and see if my gamble well considered plan for keeping the light demarcation veneer light has paid off As always, thanks for looking
    6 points
  4. SOLD Here we have a as new Tribute L100 their take on a P bass. Lovely natural finish, 42 mm at the nut, C shaped neck, saddle lock bridge, D`addario strings, pretty sure it`s an ash body - the spec says alder but hey - weight 4.7 kg or 10. 3 lb`s. Looking for £295 delivered to mainland UK only or if you are local and want to collect with social distancing I`m sure we can work something out. No trades, I`ve got too much stuff. I`m pretty sure that it is the one they used on the Andertons video, the grain pattern looks the same. Any questions ask away.
    5 points
  5. And this is after just the second sealing coat. I must point out also, that CCD SLR chips are rubbish at capturing a 'proper' red. This shows an orangey red - the thing in real life is a proper blood red. Unfortunately, the only person who will see its actual colour (leastways until Bassbashes are possible again) is going to be Rog (which is fine ). Anyway, wrong red or not, it's starting to look OK: So this will harden overnight enough for me to start the delicate work of sanding the overhang off which is tomorrow's job. Then the finishing can start
    5 points
  6. Well, it's taken a while but I think I'm done. Famous last words... Modular set up built around wired IEM. Small board is in always on, in use 100% of the time. I bring the larger effects board to maybe 50% of gigs. Small board is a piece of plywood painted black. Sized so that it fits in a Mono tick bag (attached to bass case). On the right hand side there is an IEM amp sitting on top of a lehle P-split clone with mute switch (which I made). Also the Cali compressor is on a DIY riser which hides a 18v adapter running out of the Noble. The main effects board has some unusual features. The blue thing in the top right is a home made patchbay (with IEM pass-through), master power switch, and relay bypass looper with the whole board in the loop. This way I can set up a patch and click it on/off with one tap. It's also a fail safe - if any pedal gremlins appear I can kick the "missile" switch cover to kill the power and and the whole board is automatically bypassed. Sitting on the wah pad is an expression pedal for the Xerograph. The Xerograph is in the loop. It's touch sensetive so I can do a filter sweep just by putting my foot on the expression pedal. The thing in the bottom right is a tap switch for the LFO in the spectrum filter. The button itself is aligned with the tap switch on the tape echo delay so I can set the tempo for both at the same time. the little white light above the spectrum is a bluetooth adapter so I can switch to any preset using my phone instantly (and wirelessly). The board itself is powered using a re-purposed Anker battery pack. Battery life is about 6 hours. In a pinch, the aforementioned missile switch unit has an input for a one spot, which is activated when the switch is in the 'down' position. All pedals are on isolated supplies, whether powered by battery or one spot, thanks to a variety of gigrig/joyo adapters. When IEMs aren't called for i just plug into my barefaced FR800 or whatever powered monitor is nearest.
    5 points
  7. Well, I tried but I just can't get on with Jazzes. For sale is a 2019 spotless Fender American Original Series Jazz in a gorgeous nitro Candy Apple Red. It comes with the case, candy, the original tortoiseshell pickguard, metalwork and original electrics. Weight-wise it's around 9lbs +/- a couple of oz either way. It also comes with a beautiful nitro mint pickguard and a Kiogon solderless stacked Knobs set of electrics (currently fitted). It's strung with a set of TI Flats. The extra pickguard and electrics would cost you near enough £200. I've has this a matter of weeks and it's the best Jazz I've played but just not for me. It really is in super condition and (unsurprisingly) never gigged. Why do I do these things? Yours for £1,350 plus shipping.
    4 points
  8. I don't even go by youtube reviews, I farking hate slap 😂 If it looks nice and has an interesting pickup/electronic setup, chances are that's enough. I don't really see the point in trying as the first thing I do is apply my preferred strings and setup to it, so it's going to feel and sound different anyway. Plus, the setups in most shops would discourage anyone from purchasing in the first place. Nowadays I tend to be drawn to instruments I haven't played, rare birds, if you know what I mean. Who needs to try a P or a J, it's not as if we haven't played hundreds of them before?
    4 points
  9. It's an Andy build!! Best things on the internet. You can't NOT follow them! 😀👍
    4 points
  10. 1st. Splendid Isolation: 24:3 Favorite 2nd. School's Back : 6:1 3rd. Live Gig: 2020:1 Going: nowhere. 🙁
    4 points
  11. Hi all, New cab day today. Thanks to @krispn for the tip off. It's a little known make - db. The company produce the Elbee range and the more expensive Embee. Ok, so first things first. It's a 10" and 12" speaker combined in one cabinet - and its SMALL! They have saved height by angling the speakers themselves at around an angle of 45°. The upper 10" faces upwards towards your head (ears) and the lower 12" speaker faces 45 downwards. The cab is very well constructed. Very solid. A real strong metal grille (rather than cloth that some supply) and tough wood coated in tuff stuff paint. It's a really nice deep black finish and the logo works really well. There is an angled strap handle on either side. It took a while to work out why, but they're ideal for both a one hand lift and if carrying with 2 hands, it makes carrying ot a breeze. This is 4ohm version cab, which makes perfect sense allowing you a better chance of getting full power to the 2 speakers. That is one of the major gripes I had with the barefaced super compact - if it's supposed to be a one cab solution and handle 600w then make it 4ohm so most amps have a chance - especially class d amps. Weight wise it's an absolute doddle. The handles work really well with the weight distribution so it really does feel light. On paper it's only a few kg heavier than the single 12" barefaced super compact, despite housing an extra 10" speaker. I've had a super compact and this feels smaller, more compact. It's almost certainly longer but I like that as theres no way it feels it would get knocked over, unlike the super compact used too, but it feels smaller in every other way. Sounds - I've been playing with it all day using my Sire p7 v2 with daddrio exls, Quilter bb800 and helix stomp. The bass itself is a very bright bass. Plugging straight in to the Quilter produced a bright sound. A play around with the bass - tone rolled on and off and switching between p and j - produced some nice changes in tone. The only way I can describe the initial sounds were that you could tell they were coming from the speakers. By that, I mean that area specifically. Quite a focused area. After a while I decided to play with the amp settings. This is were the cab came to life. Rolling on a lot of bass (more than I would with my Laney n410) added the comfy bass pillow of a sub sound. Now we are talking! The sound was still focused, but it had the extra warmth around it. Making the cab sound much much bigger than it is. Being stuck in with lockdown and neighbours stuck in too, meant I could give it a real blast, but I did hit a few full power notes and the response was very nice. Very warm and full of character. I decided to try the highest note on the G string and it was bright and very clear. So to the angled speaker design. I believe this is designed so that the downward facing 12" produces the low end and the upper 10" angles the sound towards your ears, rather than the back of your legs. So, with that in mind I tried the cab from a few different angles. Standing around 8ft away looking head on at the cab was a nice full sound, quite rich and smooth. Standing right in front of the cab as you might do in a small tight gig (the type where you cant move) was really nice. No problem at all hearing what I was playing. In fact it did achieve its aim. It sounded like when you have a walk out at sound check and everything is really nice and punchy. Not muffled in the slightest. A great idea, well executed. Price - I think these are usually around £600. Thanks to the tip off I got this for £295. Which considering size, weight and sound is a fantastic deal. Summary - Its a shame it's still lockdown and I cant hammer this for a good few hours, but i think on initial first inspection this is potentially a great cab. It's well built, sounds great, lightweight, cheap, a superb monitor and being 4ohm and I believe it will be absolutely fine gig wise. I think you may need to feed it more bass eq than normal, ie the flat sound is very focused, but that's just the design. It wasnt bought to replace my 4x10, but its 9kg lighter and a lot more portable, so you never know! Looking at it the best way to describe the size is that it's probably the same size (height and width) as a boxed off standard p bass body (as shown in the photo). Full specs here: Impedance: 4 Ohms Speakers: 1x10” & 1x12” Bass Port: Bottom Power: 600W RMS Sensitivity: (1W/1m) 99 dB Frequency Range: 50 - 5000 Hz Input: Speakon Link: Speakon (for connecting an extra cabinet) Height: 53.8 cm - 21.18” Width: 34.4 cm - 13.54” Depth: 45.0 cm - 17.71” Weight: 14.6 kg - 32.2 lbs
    3 points
  12. So I finally tracked one down... A teal Musicman USA SUB! The first tutor I had for bass had one of these in the black/grey/graphite colourway, and I remember thinking it was so cool. Little did I know how great these basses were, and as many of you on here know, these are basically a Stingray with some of the 'luxuries' removed. This one has had a bit of love and attention, so frets are in lovely condition and the neck has been stripped of the black paint to reveal a lovely bit of maple underneath. It has also had the 'tasteful' checkerplate pickguard replaced with a W/B/W replacement. This lovely example came from @Jimbogubson on here via an appropriately socially distanced purchase made over the bank holiday weekend! I will probably switch out the pickguard for a grey pearloid one, and I would like to fit a Zero-Mod thumbrest, but the shipping cost and time make me a bit nervous at the moment (hence the thread in the Accessories forum). Suffice to say I am a very happy chappy!
    3 points
  13. Let me bring you up to speed in as few bullet points as possible! After Syd Barrett left Pink Floyd, Roger Waters gradually became more dominant - being the main songwriter on their most famous albums (Dark Side of the Moon, Wish You Were Here, The Wall). By the time of The Wall tour, keyboardist Richard Wright had been sacked from the band (apparently for too much cocaine and not enough creative input...), though was retained as a sideman for the live shows. Waters' final album with Pink Floyd, The Final Cut is widely regarded as a solo album - with little creative input from Gilmour (guitar/vocals) or Mason (drums). Waters then unilaterally dissolved the band - firmly believing there was no Pink Floyd without him. Gilmour had other ideas, and the resulting legal battle gave ownership of the Pink Floyd to him and Mason. Wright rejoined too, officially as a hired-gun at first. Pink Floyd, now led by Gilmour played huge tours with spectacular shows and recorded two more albums. (Three if you count The Endless River, which was mostly outtakes from The Division Bell) Waters pursued a solo career, often upset that Pink Floyd were selling out stadiums with sets made up largely of material he had written while he had less success. (Comparatively!) Pink Floyd's last tour was in 1994, and the last performance was when Waters rejoined as a one-off for Live 8 in 2005. Obviously I've glossed over much of this, but I think that's enough to give the general background. George
    3 points
  14. That's a band name, right there! 😄
    3 points
  15. Exactly - even if you don't have a Kink for Clamps, it's exciting enough.
    3 points
  16. 3 points
  17. Looking forward to the new Steven Wilson album - Nick's Spector has always sounded monstrous. This track is one of my favourites for the bass alone:
    3 points
  18. I tried to start a thread like this once but just got burned by other people explaining to me that the examples I gave weren't cr*p. Oh and helping me to understand the function of subjectivity and its application in popular music. For which lessons I am eternally grateful.
    3 points
  19. For sale my BC Rich Eagle bass from 1978. Neck Through, original DiMarzio double PUs, Badass bridge, Grover tuners, etc. This is the most seeked version, in Koa wood. No modifications or repairs, fully working Neil Moser electronics. Neck is straight, low action, and fully working truss rod. The bass has just been profesionally setup and plays like a dream. The amount of tones you get out of this bass is amazing. Also, a very rare feature for one of these basses from the era: very light weight, under 8,5 pounds. Original hardshell case included. I bought this bass on this forum a few months ago, it's a great bass. I put it on sale only to finance the purchase of another bass that I have that I spotted Price is 2400 EUR.
    2 points
  20. So another sale prompts another purchase. I thought what are the three big no-no's for me. 1) Maple board 2) Active electronics 3) That Stingray I had. So I went for all three. And it is unreal. Utterly sublime.
    2 points
  21. Hi Troops. I am coming back to my bass guitars after a long, long lay off. I have an old Gibson Grabber and a Westone Thunder 3 fretless. I'm a bit all over the place at the moment with various workshop projects, fishing, bait making and the music. I've downloaded Audacity for recording and Hydrogen drum machine for the drummy stuff. I'm making a shelf at the moment for the last bits and pieces like the interface for the laptop. That's a Lexicon, and then I can get started. I bought a cheap practice amp a while back but it sounds so bad that it pulls the fun slider down to zero when playing through it. So here's the rub... I have a couple of 15" Celestion bass speakers I bought 30 years ago. At the time I built a 2 x 15 cab for them but it was so big and heavy I took them out and recycled the cab and the speakers have followed me through life ever since. I've kept the old Marshall valve amp and now want to build a couple of smaller enclosures for the Celestions. I have been searching for Cab plans, designs and am getting nowhere. What's the best way to search the site for info as my initial attempts have produced a very diverse set of results. It'd be good to narrow them down a bit, and what's the best way to ask for advice and suggestions? Basschat looks great and I'm looking forward to being a nuisance in the very near future. Cheers Dudes. Tony.
    2 points
  22. Hi all, just a quick message to say that I finally got myself a bass. In the end I decided to buy a new one, a Yamaha TRBX504. I have a Yamaha 6 string Pacifica and it's a really well made instrument and although the 504 is a bit more than I originally wanted to pay the reviews are all pretty good. I also managed to pick up a Hohner bass amp locally for £18 so that will get me started. Thanks again. Phil
    2 points
  23. Congratulations. Great basses, I had one in the same colour. Just needs a black plate! 😎
    2 points
  24. Yeah, true. He saved them for his first two solo albums, which are packed with absolute bangers. Oh, wait... 😄
    2 points
  25. Gutted...I opened this thread in the hope that somebody was actually building a 28-31 model A. Damn!! If you were, you'd obviously have to put it on 32 rails, Jag independent rear, "I" beam front, Moon discs, wide whites and an original flathead. Has to be minimalist Boyd Coddington stylee - no louvres or door handles... Anybody else recording the new series of "Overhaulin'"?
    2 points
  26. In my experience, pianos don't uniformly drift 30 cents flat either! Good luck.
    2 points
  27. Unfortunately the piano is a bit too flat to adjust to with your tuner, 30 cents flat would be A = 432.44Hz Online calculator here: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-centsratio.htm If its distance recording (ie not playing together), then you could put the audio for the piano through a plugin on eg Reaper, to correct it to A=440, then everyone else could tune to concert pitch as normal.
    2 points
  28. It was Carol Kaye in her time off from Motown reunions.
    2 points
  29. 2 points
  30. I work abroad a lot and bring stuff back. No officer, I took it out with me. They can never prove otherwise. Remove any labels that might give the game away, post any invoices or documents back home to yourself separately so you've nothing incriminating on your person. Never brought in anything as big as a guitar but done good few cameras, a laptop, even parts for our Smart car. That's not to say you won't get rumbled, but I've always kept it plausible and made sure I've no evidence on my to prove otherwise and never had more that the most cursory of questioning.
    2 points
  31. Cheers! Hard to say if it worth the money. It sounds fantastic. The way I see it, the preamp is the heart of this kind of set up, so I took a deep breath and bought the best one I can. I sometimes think about how expensive it was and wince a bit. But I know myself well enough to know that if I'd got something else I would always be wondering if the Noble is better, then end up upgrading and spending more in the long run. On balance I'm comfortable that it is "worth it for me".
    2 points
  32. 2 points
  33. Seriously though, that is an amazingly well thought out and clearly high functioning setup. I had a very similar input/effect loop/bypass box setup on my last board, and now I hate that I didn't see the opportunity to have the missile launch style switch!
    2 points
  34. maybe not the "best" or the most famous cable brand, but like cordial cables with neutrick plugs. Good quality cables, Inexpensive, and well built.
    2 points
  35. Sorry to hijack the thread but the OP may be interested? That's where I had a 'Producer Switch': you may have seen Lee Sklars YT channel where he talks about a 'switch' that is not connected so the Producer thinks he is dialling in another tone? Actually, real reason is when I bought it it had 2 Mudbuckers and a variety of non standard mods ( as per photo-see if you notice them all?). I've sensitively restored it but left the scratchplate, although it now has a small white plastic insert in the place of a gaping hole. I've not been able to source a replacement scratchplate (other than custom or make myself) and I think the originality is better than a new replacement anyway?
    2 points
  36. i've just watched the video on the geefix website and i'm not totally convinced, it's a pretty big hole that's needed in the wall, i would be more convinced if they had compared it to more types of fixing rather than just the 2 they did, also the section of plasterboard they used for the geefix was not the same piece that failed on the other 2 types (maybe that's me being cynical!) if you got one of those geefix in the wrong place then it's a bit more of a job to patch the 25mm hole compared to the 8 or 9mm hole that other fasteners use. as i'm always putting holes on the wrong place (apparantly) that would be an issue for me. Matt
    2 points
  37. FWIW the Green Valley Metallic they used for my Jake (the first one in that colour, I believe) is a Fiat colour 😄 The idea was to mimic the old tobacco-stained LPB.
    2 points
  38. SW does surround himself with stellar players. The drumming on the To The Bone album is stunning: Jeremy Stacey and Craig Blundell. Craig (an ex-marine) played on the TTB tour and was on the Beeb’s recent drumming series. I found this documentary very interesting...
    2 points
  39. I’m a great fan of both. For obvious reasons, release of the new album has been postponed. https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR1r7fnIS3ya9xbYMkKAbVCuf6ZBFI1mF1-jsa5kYkwhmwfFwobbW2OXC1E&v=uROM05_ARxc
    2 points
  40. Thats Marco Minnemann of the Aristocrats ( English chap Guthrie Govan , and American Brian Beller ) and Dream Theatre among many others Amazing drummist Beggs is a trooper, fab bass and all round nice blokey
    2 points
  41. I'll stop hijacking now 😉
    2 points
  42. I've used d'Addario (EXL) nickel rounds for years too - I've also tried Newtone Nickel rounds (platinum) on round cores. In my view, there's not much in it but I find the Newtones feel a little rougher than d'Addarios. Newtones seem to last too - I've had a set on a short-scale for much longer than I'd normally leave them and they sound reasonably fresh (well, acceptably so for me). Newtone used to do custom silking too - this was very attractive to me. In a recent email conversation, I learned that this was no longer the case - a bit of a disappointment - though not an issue if silking doesn't bother you.
    2 points
  43. 2 points
  44. In the words of Turner Hall: He's the most successful British artist you've never heard of. https://turnerhall.co.uk/2017/09/12/the-most-successful-british-artist-youve-never-heard-of/ https://www.theguardian.com/music/2017/aug/24/steven-wilson-the-prog-rocker-topping-the-charts-without-anyone-noticing
    2 points
  45. Boo hoo. Man-child sacks the band he is in although he doesn't own the band (the wall, final cut). Man-child tries to take his ball home when the other kids still want to play with it. Judge gives the ball to the other kids. Man-child complains when the others won't let him play with the ball 30 years later.
    2 points
  46. Hofner Ignition Club, Danelectro Longhorn, Kay KJP-1B and Ibanez Talman TMB30. Yes I know there's no knobs on the Talman or strings on the Longhorn. 🙂
    2 points
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