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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/01/21 in all areas
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So yesterday was my (60th) Birthday. Can't believe I'm 60...anyway, I got this T Shirt which I thought I'd share here.10 points
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So then! I play in a VH tribute band and I wanted to build something along those lines. It's a bit of a combination of Eddie's Frankenstrat, Mikey's PJ BB's and P basses, and Wolfie's blue striped Jazz. More details as it progresses 😀7 points
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I had a very apologetic email from Music Square today and all is good. By all accounts they've been impacted by the Brexit "deal" and the general impact it's had on logistics (amongst other things) which I had suspected and a few BC'ers had also confirmed. What a mess all round. Still, at least we get to have blue passports again. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, it's been much appreciated6 points
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Well - you know what I think about routers. But there are times when only a router will do. What I do try to do, though, is always be working with a 'captive' bearing bit. I forgot to take the shots, but I started like the weight relief - hogged out the chambers with a forster bit with the edges straightened up with a chisel. Then the bottom-bearing flush bit couldn't go anywhere but follow the chiselled line: I've included the provision for in-chamber battery for both general layout options (although I think @Jus Lukin is going for the straight-row toggle option), with the non-used chamber useful for coping with the excess loom wire. We could even go battery box if @Jus Lukin preferred and then use both battery chambers to cope with the excess wire In the photo above there is the rebate bit - again, it can't go anywhere - for the hatch. Here is the rebate with the battery in one of the recesses: And here is the healthy channel to feed three looms with their multi-wire connectors to the pickups, with the battery in the second recess: As usual, I will leave it until the morning before I glue this wing on...just in case I've forgotten something, and while the glue is setting, start on my cunning neck pocket plan on @Fishman 's Wal save Who says that men can't multi -oh sorry-just got distracted task5 points
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4 points
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Ah really. Man it’s pretty shitty either way then. I’ve just sold a bass worth a fair few quid on here, paid by bank transfer and I’m arranging my courier (man with his van) to deliver the bass direct. I guess it’s down to trust on some things too.4 points
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Touching on our heritage as part of the violin family. This bass goes too low to even hear!4 points
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4 points
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Well, it's been a few days now, still getting used to that 5th string, and overall I can give a big thumbs up. 👍 It's not perfect, but whenever I think of something that's not quite 100% then I realise that I was comparing it mentally to other basses that cost me up to 10 times more It's a very decent bass, and a ridiculously good bass for the money. Mine looks like it had been on display for some time. It didn't have fingerprints or anything, but there was dust accumulated on the bridge/saddles and on the same side of all three knobs, and it seemed a bit... messy in general. By comparison, my girlfriend's Precision in the same finish was absolutely smooth and impeccable. Quick wipe, and all is good. It's pretty light for a 5-string bass: 8.6 lbs. My old EBMM SUB5 was close to 11, and the G&L L2500 was around 10 lbs. This one is only 8.6 lbs which is nice. The balance is pretty good, on a strap it stays where I put it, but I can feel the neck is very nearly in the 'too heavy for the body'. It's one of the things I've found in many light basses, they seem to achieve that largely by using light bodies, and then the neck pulls it out of balance. This one is ok. The neck is full, slightly on the chunky side for a 5-string, not far off the L2500 as I recall. The SUB5 and Lakland 5502 were shallower (and also slimmer for the SUB5). Is this bad? Not for me, I favour meaty necks: Precision/Stingray styles. The string spacing is narrowish but wider than on 5-string Rays, and the G string doesn't fall off the fingerboard because there is enough room. It is BLACK. Like... none-more-black. In a guitar rack it looks like a blackhole-shaped guitar. I love the finish. Not sure what the fingerboard is made of but it's very nice, very dark, smooth, shiny. Fretwork is good. Originally the neck had far too much relief and the saddles were too high. I think that maybe the same person who put it on display noticed some fret rattle and decided that one way to alleviate it was to ensure the strings were as far as possible from the frets. If that was their goal, I expect they slept very happily that night, proud of a job well done. If they wanted to still have a bass you could play... then not so much. A quick adjustment (what took me longest -minutes- was to adjust the curvature of the saddles, they were all over the place) soon made it very playable. I haven't played 5-string basses in years and even back then I never really adjusted to them, so I still feel a bit lost and hit the wrong string, between the narrower strng spacing hand having one more string... muting is getting rapidly better but I still have work to do to get to an acceptable level. Right now I can play ok for a while and suddenly KLANG goes the B string, ooops... I definitely don't feel comfortable to play it live yet, not that there's any hurry, unfortunately Sound... definitely on Stingray territory as you'd expect, but not amazing. It's a perfectly usable sound, and between the two volumes and the passive tone it's decently versatile. I love Stingrays, and this gets me close enough... and again, if I think "hmmm, I wish it had more X or less Y" I quickly remember the price: if something bothers me enough, it would be very easy to modify it while retaining the total cost low when you consider how good the resulting instrument is. The only thing it needs is to file the nut slots a little, as it's a little high as it is, but that's trivial and it's perfectly playable as it is anyway. Other than the pickguard (not a fan of the tortoiseshell look) I have no intention of changing anything in a hurry, but I suspect that if I end up using the 5-string more and bring it to my bands I would change the pickup. My favourite is the Seymour Duncan alnico (SMB4A for 4-string) or the original (Nordstrand MM4.2 is very close to it), unfortunately the 5-string version comes in a differently shaped enclosure so I would have to find something else. No hurry 'though. I think a black pickguard is the way to go. This is without one at all:4 points
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I now have a collection of 6 Action Fraud Reference numbers and 2 police report numbers from numerous people. I'm happy to collate an open document with this information in to share with others and to add to as things develop and if other people get ripped off. Names will only be included if I am given permission. Quote me and send me your reference numbers. I am still trying to find details on his businesses. Seems difficult..... not suspicious at all4 points
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Hi all, starting off my first bass build at last! Back when I was touring with my ukulele band, Ukebox, we ended up in the South Pacific for a couple of weeks at one point in 2015, island hopping as guest entertainers on the MS Amsterdam. I spotted most islands we visited out there had a variation of what turned out to be the tahitian ukulele- basically a solid-bodied ukulele with 8 strings made of fishing line, and a carved internal bowl with thin soundboard- and vowed to make one one day as they looked amazing despite having basically just been made in someone's shed to sell to tourists. Fast-forward a few years; I'd left the band and got a job at Jack's Instrument Services here in Manchester, where after a couple of years of setting up and repairing guitars I felt ready to try and put one of these together during the lockdown! I altered the design a bit, doing radical stuff like putting on a separate fretboard and designing a slightly different shape with a lower horn for playing while sat down, and ended up making three. Each one was a bit of a learning curve but the third is definitely the best so far- Spanish Cedar compared to the other two which are obeche, plus it's concert scale so seems to be the sweet spot for string tension in this tuning(GGcceeAA). Moving on to bass things, keeping in with the ukulele theme I had been planning to make a U-Bass scaled model with a Piezo pickup/preamp, but hit a brickwall trying to get hold of anyone at Shadow about a UBass-specific piezo, so decided to go with metal strings rather than the usual rubber ubass fare. Then I figured since I was going to need to buy regular bass pickups and hardware and since the short scale of a ubass makes intonation... 'interesting' I thought for sake of a few hours more woodwork I may as well make a full-size bass that I could use at gigs without being laughed at(if gigs ever end up being a thing again). So I ordered a five-piece neck blank and a massive chunk of wenge off eBay(bought wenge because it looks amazing, but the more I've read about it since, the more I've realised this was a terrible idea- but I have it now so I'm going to use it). Looking at this I realised I was basically going the direction of my favourite era of bass design- the 80s; where, from what I gather, your quality as a bassist was decided by the weight of your bass, the number of knobs and outputs on it, and how convincingly you can sound like Mark King. So I decided to lean into that somewhat. I decided to design a bass with the shape of my tahitian ukes so I could use it as a giggable advert for them and their shape, but the weight, bells and whistles and general vibes of those early 80's custom jobbies- think BC Rich, JayDee, Alembic et all. I'm particularly inspired by the Westone Thunder Mk2, even if the bridge pickup is wayyyy to far from the bridge to give me that JayDee sound my Vox Standard bass used to have- So then came ordering some hardware; Badass MKII, Grover GB707 machineheads, 2x DiMarzio Model Ps (big thanks to Howdenspur for selling me his, as literally all of my suppliers at work had run out after Northwest Guitars sold me their only cream one), Bartolini NTMB+F preamp. I've also an Indian rosewood fretboard on order... need to get a trussrod on the go too once I work out how long of one I need. Knobs will be the old Boss style ones and switches will be those flat paddle throw ones, naturally. So I'm currently sketching out the shape onto a bit of 6mm MDF which I'll use as a template for table-routing the bass(I'll be doing it as a neck-thru). Resizing my tahitian uke design from 15inch to 34inch scale is proving something of a challenge... but I'll suss it out eventually. With the tahitian ukes, most of the time went into designing the template, so I imagine this will move fairly quickly once I get properly started. Buying the Model P was my first time on BC in years and I'm a bit out of the habit of forum-ing but will hopefully remember to keep this thread updated! I'm lucky also to work with some extremely clued-up people, including of course Jack of Jack's Instrument Services, and also Adam of Dolan Custom Guitars who's made some ridiculously good basses since I've known him so I should be able to work things out as I go... Control wise it'll have volume, blend, 3band EQ; 3x series/parallel and one active/passive switch(possibly phase too, but they're basically a 'make it sound naff' switch so probably not), and of course, the totally useless terrible idea that is an XLR output in addition to the jack socket, which probably won't even be wired in and will literally just be there because they look AWESOME. Very much looking forward to actually making some sawdust on this one! (hoping my image embed links work... last time I was on here everyone was still using photobucket..![edit- sussed it!])3 points
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Edit 13/01/21 now SOLD thank you! Hi, I am selling this 1973/74 Fender Precision Bass, looking for £2400. This is a great instrument. It is just the right weight (approx 8lb 5oz) and balances well. It sounds fantastic, aggressive and clanky if you need it to be or as warm and thumpy as you like. It’s superb with a pick, loads of attack but still lots of tone and bottom end weight come through. It looks killer. The sunburst finish has just the right amount of wear and mojo. The back of the neck looks battered but doesn’t feel it and is fast and smooth to play. Bad bits: The pots look like replacements. One of the scratchplate screws is non-original with a slightly larger head to hold the broken off tip of the scratchplate by the jack socket. The ashtrays and thumbrest are missing. The strap buttons in most of the photos here are my Schallers. I will provide the buyer with the Fender buttons that it had on when I got it, they don’t look original 70s to me but I'm not sure. There is no case or strap with the bass. Would prefer collection in person (socially distanced obviously). Can post if you can provide a courier/decent postage option. In case of postage I can put it in a vgc hardly used Fender ABS-style hard case for an extra £50. Pics: Some videos of the bass in use: A jam so you can hear it on its own. Recorded DI into a UA Apollo with 1176AE compressor plugin and Neve 1073 plugin (EQ flat except the bass boosted one notch at 220Hz. Tom Jones: “You Can Leave Your Hat On” on The Voice UK. Mo Jamil: “Iron Sky” so you can hear it in a recording. Cheers Ben Edit: it has been pointed out that the pickups say 74 so this bass was assembled and left the factory in 1974. The serial number according to the Fender dater dates to 1973 so presumably it was made over the course of those years.3 points
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Instead of basses I’d buy time. I’ve had all the basses I’ve ever wanted and no time to play them...3 points
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3 points
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A bass that can't be heard? Many soundmen achieve that without any new instrument developments 😀.3 points
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I don’t think the three-bolt neck plate in itself is a problem design (don’t Musicman basses also use them?) I think there was some decline in manufacturing quality during the same era, meaning the three-bolt models are also associated with sometimes shabby neck pockets, poorly aligned necks etc. But like anything else there are plenty of good, bad and indifferent ones around regardless of the year. I wouldn’t be put off a good 70s Fender bass just because it had a three-bolt neck.3 points
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I've just built myself a studio desk at home as I'm doing more post production mixing now we're not allowed to gig. I was given the bay window space, with the strict directive that it wasn't to protrude in to the room. Think I've squeezed as much out of it as I can here! The two end bays under the monitor shelf are sized so that I can add rack strip if I want to fit kit in there in future. Going to build a small guitar rack to hold two or three off to one side too.3 points
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It's time to make a pick guard – I've ordered a few different sheets of A4 veneer to make something laminated – each sheet is 0.6mm, so 4 sheets should do the trick The next step will be to scan this and make a paper template, fine tune that, then make something out of thin MDF, then onto the veneer3 points
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Building a bass is sometimes like doing a logic puzzle! I'm working on the chamber size and position and the cable channels (remembering I have to feed those large loom connectors to each of the pickups) before I glue the lower back wing on. So what are my limitations? Actually, ironically it's about how much offcut of the back wood I have. Because I will be using an offcut from the waist cuts of the back panels to make my chamber hatch. And, if possible, I want the grain to be in the same direction. So the hatch has to fit within this area, minus the 8mm rebate all round for the hatch and (hopefully) magnets to fit: And, ideally, it needs to be able to accommodate the battery. Yes - I could fit a battery box, but it would be neater not to have to. And that leaves me the area cut out of paper here - and actually, a couple of options would fit in that area. In both cases the battery could be slotted into a pre-made semi-chamber carved into the side of the chamber: I will add the battery cutouts both sides so that @Jus Lukin can decide at his leisure which type of layout or variation of these he prefers. But in both cases they share the same external chamber size and position so that can be cut on the scroll saw now:3 points
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Looong time since the last update! Apologies for the blurry pictures, they look OK on my phone screen but like hot crap on my desktop screen where I'm typing this. The tearout was 90% fixed by building a masking tape dam around the edge of the tuner holes and using the glue and sawdust method. The face of the headstock was sanded up through the grades again to 400 grit, then given 8-9 coats of tru-oil. Looking OK if you don't get too close! I also used an old beer can to cut out some pickup shaped plates and a thin strip of aluminium. The plates will go under the pickups (largely pointless as the cavities are already shielded with copper tape) and the strip will run from the bridge to the neck pickup cavity and make contact with the plate. A ground wire will then be soldered to the plate for grounding purposes. Time to level the fretboard. A piece of square edge steel should be dead straight, so I cut and stuck several strips of 80 grit paper to one of the narrower edges of the beam using double sided sticky tape. I alternated between the raidus block and my new straight edge sanding beam, using pencil marks over the fretboard until it was all sanded off evenly and checking using the non-sandpaper covered edge of the beam until I was happy it was dead straight. This took a long time, but should be worth it in the long run. The 'mwah' sound from fretless bass comes from the fretless equivalent of fret-buzz, and needs a dead straight board to sound. All done. Now for the side dots. I clamped the neck to the fretting template and used a 90 degree square to mark off the location of the dots. Then I used a 2mm bit to drill a few mm into the side of the board, inserted the plastic rod dipped in a tiny amount of superglue into the hole, and then cut it as close to the wood as I dared using a small pair of cutters used for delicate electronics. All done, I sanded the dots level with the wood using 400 grit paper. Why not put 2 dots where 12th fret should be? Because my sleep deprived brain forgot that was a thing. All done, I used the radius block again and sanded up to 400 grit on the fretboard, wiped the dust off with a damp cloth and then gave it a coat of lemon oil once the water had dried. The lemon oil dried pretty unevenly which told me I'd have to do another coat or 2. Turned out to be 2, but the oil looked great and dried evenly after the third coat. Time for assembly. You can see the grounding strip installed here, along with an annoying scuff I stupidly did while re-drilling the hole between the pickup and control cavities, as the first one wasn't wide enough to pass the wires through. Everything is soldered into place here. Time for some strings. Without a set of nut files, this is as close to finished as I can get for now. Nearly there though!3 points
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3 points
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3 points
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3 points
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https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2020/12/30/gear-review-sandberg-guitars-victor-brandt-signature-forty-eight/?fbclid=IwAR2LaOhh_YqCErzHJd0_2dEbHhlMOOTFBIyDjdqtT-r9KBnDqZ-i6zYLqTY nice review here on the Sig 483 points
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It looks like it means business (the same way the triple pickup Dingwalls do.) Of course what it really also needs is a button that switches the pickups between the 3 settings in a wave pattern (like the Source Audio EQ1) - maybe with colour-matching flames coming out of the head. (It's snowed too much here today, I'm losing my marbles...)3 points
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2 points
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You aren't helping my seller's remorse one bit. Yes, if Klingons played bass...2 points
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The cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels / gladwrap makes a handy listening 'sniffer' for finding the source of noises.2 points
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Hi folks, really enjoying the site. I would be great if you guys could help and support my channel by hitting the subscribe button. I've got lots of free content uploaded for beginner bassists. Here's a link to a video lesson explaining the circle of 5ths within the context of the bass neck: Thanks for looking, and new subs would be much appreciated. Jamie (Groove Tube Bass)2 points
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How about getting someone like The Creamery to make you some P/J pickups in the same size casings so the look of the bass isn't affected?2 points
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Hmm, I’ve not heard of that issue on MacBooks with regards to volume....if there was an issue with it being powered, I would expect it to simply not work at all. That said, I’ve not looked into it, and it’s a number of years since I was in the tech support team haha. I’ll look into it Monday. Si // Focusrite2 points
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Hi folks! I'm looking for the Mac version of the Focusrite Control app for my Scarlett Solo. We're having problems getting it to work properly with JamKazam and apparently running this app alongside it is supposed to improve performance and reduce latency. "But my dear girl," I hear you say, "why not just download it from Focusrite's website?" I tried guv, really I tried. Off to their webshite I went. Gosh, it's changed a wee bit since I was last here. No free downloads now - you have to create an account. Oh well, here we go. Name, email, password, unit serial number.... uh, what's this? When did I buy it? That was a while ago so enter a random date. Which country did I buy it in? Jeez, are these nosey jackasses looking for attempts to procure munitions? United Kingdom, obvs. Where did I buy it? Dawson's Music in Leeds IIRC, so let's pick 'Geetar CenTER'. Duh. Eh? Bundle code? BUNDLE code? What sorcery is this? I've moved house three times since I bought this thing and I haven't a clue where or what the bundle code is. Let's try some gibberish. Nope, not valid. No software for you. Go direct to jail, do not pass go, do not collect the app that could make the difference between you sticking with the Solo or throwing it in the bin. Sod this for a game of soldiers. Change account name to Rosemary West from Samoa, email to Fosters_NastyPasty (at) non_existent_domain save changes, step away from the keyboard and indulge in some pleasant daydreams involving Focusrite's marketeers' heads and a heavy door. I could understand all this palaver if we were talking about heavy-duty software, but this is a wee app that just controls a USB interface. Fuxake. So here I am. Does anyone have a copy of the Mac version of the app I could have? I shall be forever in your debt! Many thanks, Laura2 points
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Oh I get that Dave, personally if I buy something on here if I sell it I’ll only look to recoup what I spent, even if market value means I could get more for it. However if an item was up at correct market value that I wanted it wouldn’t bother me if the seller was making a profit on it. So in summary, I’ll never become rich via buying/selling on Basschat.2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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Assuming it's a 'third generation' model (if not, you don't need Control...), download here, with no hassle... Focusrite Solo Control... Hope this helps.2 points
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2 points
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Who labelled someone “dishonest”, have I missed something or are we off on a theoretical tangent? Ive negotiated and set a price, which makes him a few quid - he’s mulling it over. if he doesn’t want that, then that’s fine.2 points
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I discussed with my local Police when he said he was coming to my house; they said I'm not far from the station and just call 999 if he turns up. They weren't so interested in taking any action regarding the fraud itself, as I'd already raised the case with Action Fraud and gave them the reference. It has been raised with Leicester police and some have contacted the local Trading Standards. There are also cases raised with the Musicians Union, more targeting the question of musicians' unpaid fees than the sales fraud.2 points
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Wasn’t there a big fuss quite a while back about someone listing an original OC-2 for a really high price and loads of folk piling on the for sale thread criticising the asking price? Folks were chiming in about cost, cheaper alternatives etc which on a for sale thread isn’t allowed in the bc rules I think or certainly not appropriate. Not that the bc rules appear to always apply or people feeling like they’re somehow exempt. It’s come up before and it’ll come up again no doubt but if someone wants to list an item for more then they paid it’s up to the buyer to decide if it’s a good deal irrespective of the platform. Back on topic... Yamahas are good eh!2 points
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2 points
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Thanks Richard. The north coast is truly stunning, world class scenery. I had a great day once cycling from Ballymoney to Bushmills (where the whiskey is made) where I joined the coast road and rode on into Portrush, stopping for chips and a rest then onto Portstewart for an ice cream at Morellis and then back inland to Coleraine. It was a beautiful sunny summer’s day and the scenery was breathtaking. Grub was good too 😁 It’s my hope to retire there in 10 years or so if I’m still able.2 points
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No real need for many controls. Set it to P on the centre pickup, volume on full, then get on with it. 😉2 points
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2 points
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Here’s a rare one Barbanera Low Pass Filter - Mongerfooger MF-101 Clone.2 points
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I don't know if this bass will have a name, but one look at that and I thought "Thor's Hammer!" So I suggest Mjölnir2 points
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While waiting for the Superquads I did a couple of small jobs, including adding the 0.6mm maple veneer to the back of the fretboard. The tang slots will be filled with epoxy mixed with ebony dust before the board is finally glued on (a little way off yet): And then, this morning, the Superquads arrived : For those who have never seen them, they are 4-coil passive pickups: The three way toggle gives each pickup the option of 'P' ; Single ; Humbucker: There is a battery connection, but that is purely to power the LED that shines red for 'P' ; green for Single; blue for Humbucker. The pickups are not affected by the battery being connected or not. And - although this set up with three pickups is, we think, a World First and will have some quirky things we need to work through - they are ridiculously easy to wire up. The PCB on each switch has a ground, a 9v for the LED and a hot out. Performance-wise, they are superb - worth watching the Bassbash clip at the beginning of this thread with Nick Smith's demo of a Sims fitted bass and @TheGreek 's Silk bass. I suppose my only less-positive observation is that the cases (GRP/carbon?) have a rough surface and show the manufacturing ejector marks - exactly the same pattern on these as on Mick's a good few years ago. But, once the LEDs are all traffic lighting up, who's looking at that! And here is broadly how they will fit: Now I have the looms in hand, I can work out how big the chambers and the cable runs need to be in the lower back wing2 points
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Wear a loud shirt and a hat , sorted . we played a food festival in NWales a few years ago , boy did the guys have a laugh when the following year yours truly was the poster boy 😂2 points
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It just goes with the territory. It suits me, I’m not good-looking and I enjoy being anonymous. I don’t think even top-class bass players are generally recognised by the listening and watching audience. If they are, it’s because of their status as singer or front-person. Like Macca, Sting etc. I’m a firm believer in the wisdom of Martin Ace, long-time bass player for Welsh rock band Man. “If you’re bothered about being overlooked, ignored or misunderstood you’ve probably chosen the wrong instrument.” Look at it this way. If the audience don’t notice we’re on the stage surely they can’t put any mistakes down to us. 😂2 points
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Really pleasantly surprised, great bass for less than £300. My only observations were a fairly roughy finished ‘binding’ (I think it’s just a different coloured wood tbh) tuning keys a little flimsy and frail . Other than that a great sounding and playing bass. They’ve positioned the bridge further back which makes the 34” scale a lot more playable than some other full scale acoustics .nice low action, Preamp and pickup are decent , features a basic tuner . A good buy. MusicStreet are excellent and item was delivered to Ireland in 3 days.2 points