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I was recently looking at Reverb and a beautiful Taylor acoustic bass caught my eye.. I was about to reach for my bank card but then I saw the wood grain on the back!! Always best to check the grain before building an instrument. I’ll say no more and leave the rest to your imaginations.

Thanks to the wise words of @nilebodgers who correctly identified the issue, the cable is now sorted so it's much appreciated. This morning I took the new plug off, stripped off the extra shielding layer on the insulated core and re-soldered the cable back up and all is good once more. Special thanks also to those who offered up the level of idiocy I have come to admire and respect from certain quarters. You know who you are. Although I suspect some of you probably don't.

DRUM LOOP / Mark Ronson ft. Bruno Mars - Uptown Funk / 115 bpm - ORIGINAL TEMPO

Take the ugliness of the ric controls and graft them on to the ugly body of a telecaster, and you are really onto a winner!

So basically, you did a terrible job of putting a new jack on a cable?

A quick update... The bass is now really coming along! To my eye the triple dots look great on a wider fretboard!

Basically, with angled jacks the signal is going along in a straight line then suddenly has to go through an unexpected 90-degree turn. The lower frequencies move more slowly so they make it through the turn, no problem. The faster moving and frankly irresponsible high frequencies just spin out and never make it to the amplifier. Like I say, crack a hazelnut and have a cuppa while the spirit goblin sorts it out.

Sounds like you’ve made yourself a reggae cable , can you let me know what you did 😁

But you have to live with these political decisions, no matter how deep you put your head in the sand.

I've created a YouTube channel with drums loops taken from songs. I upload original tempo and slower tempos also. New upload every day. Stay tuned!

Simon Gallup has returned to The Cure following his departure in August https://www.guitarworld.com/news/simon-gallup-rejoins-the-cure

Yes, Mark Gooday gave a quick glimpse of it when he did a quick Facebook Live session showing folk around the pop up shop that was in Denmark Street last week. Here's a screen grab.

Now now, people in glass houses... Did you ever see the state of that shitty little home made cab you built? Eh?

Precisely.

I think this is the answer - I’ve had some really good results with copper tape with the conductive glue and just soldering a wire to ground. As long as you use the right grounding strategy your golden - this is a good guide in case your not sure! https://www.fralinpickups.com/2018/11/12/understanding-guitar-grounding/

Yeah I was wondering about the colour, as far as I know they were available in black and turdburst, never seen a white one. Serial number and the Broad Bass decal puts it towards the end of the run I think, so 80 - 81 ? Could be wrong about that. BB1000 and BB1200 would also have had that bridge. Tuners look right - what I can see of them is identical to my BB800. Hard to tell but it looks like the nut might have been replaced with a thinner one and a shim.

I fitted these to my 2 Ibanez basses today and despite my initial concerns about drilling out the old dots, it went surprisingly smoothly. I was struggling to see the side dots on a dark stage even with my new glasses lol. I’m really pleased with the results and they actually look as if they were original and work an absolute treat with very little charging. I went for the super bright in blue and ordered from Japan from the official shop. The size was 2mm on both basses so I ordered 2 x 60 mm lengths. Delivery was about 5 days. The 60 mm length was more than enough to do all the side dots on one bass with a little left over. There is a really good video on YouTube where the chap uses a drawing type pin to create a pilot hole in the dot then a wood work drill bit by hand. I used a 2mm Brad point wood work drill bit and initially just hand turned the bit to drill out the existing dots as in the video. I then got a little more confident and used my little 10v Dewalt drill at a very slow speed. I don’t have a pillar drill which would obviously be the desired tool of choice. I drilled out about 3-4mm. I didn’t pre-cut the luminlay but just dabbed a drop of superglue on the end, inserted in the hole then trimmed as flush as possible with a Stanley knife. My other concern was sanding the new dots flush without marking the neck. I did try masking around them but this was not very effective so I found that cutting as close with the blade then a gentle sand with some 800 wet/dry then 0000 steel wool to tidy up. A drop of Nomad fretboard oil and all done. If I did another bass, I would get some decent side cutting snips to do the majority of the trimming rather than the Stanley knife as I slipped once and nicked the edge of the fretboard. A very fine flush cut razor saw might be another option. I can’t imagine a luthier would charge a huge amount to do the job if you were worried about doing it yourself. I also ordered the Luminlay torch but they work fine with being charged with a normal small torch.

Both posted at the same time t-h 😁

I think I used to know her

As you say, probably a lot to do with playing technique and style. I play pretty light with my fingers but quite hard if I slap, so consequently, I use a fair bit of compression. The Filter Twin absolutely loved this and produced some epic sounds.

I've finally got back to work on the T-Type baritone. I'm using a mahogany body and a top which I've had lying around for a while - I think it's Golden Phoebe, which apparently is Chinese. These days I'd probably give a bit more thought to where my wood is coming from, but as I've got it already I should use it. Here's the body - much sanding and routing still to be done: The headstock has an offcut from the top as a veneer - looked pretty good freshly planed. Unfortunately that crack at the top left became pretty prominent. I might cover it with a nice truss rod cover, or just live with it: Further shaping: Some neck carving: Heel end: Volute - I might make it a bit pointier - we'll see. I could veneer over the back too to cover the scarf joint, but I don't really mind it Frets in - it turns out my strat scale notched straight edge fits the 27" board perfectly if you shift it along one fret!

This looks good:

SolidGoldFx Supa Funk - creating a bit of a stir amongst filter and synth lovers! Currently £175 from Andertons - I'll definitely be looking out for a used one in due course!

the bridge is relight for the neck. Early 80’s

We all had our moments

Who's gonna be the first to ask to change their forum name to Sticky LaBella?

As has been said, the 70s Japanese copies (also Brazilian Gianninis & Italian Ghersons) are the closest to 'replica' standard. None of the more recent basses do much more than copy the overall look - scale length, neck proportions, hardware & pickups are all quite different to the real thing. The BC Rick ban also extends to Fakers (they're the reason why there's a ban!) so posting Ebay links here is probably a bad idea. The best place to look for Fakers - or to comission a build from a specialist luthier - is the FB Fakers group. Here are some to be going on with.

90 Degree Jack..? Isn’t he still in the Scrubs doing a five stretch for larceny?

Thanks for that. I think I know what you're talking about and if so, then yes I think it has got a semiconducting layer. Of the 2 cores running through the cable there's the outer non-shielded copper core and the shielded core. The shielded one has 2 covering layers (I appreciate this probably isn't the correct term but it'll do if you know what I'm referring to!) a black outer layer and an inner clear layer. I noticed on the old plug that the black outer layer was trimmed further back, maybe 10-15mm or so leaving the clear inner layer covering the core pretty much up to around 1mm away from the solder joint. Not knowing any difference, and being lazy sod, I trimmed both layers off equally a mm or 2 short of the new solder joint. I'll dismantle the cable tomorrow and trim the black layer back and try again. Hopefully it's that simple.

Sadly - or luckily - none in existence that I’m aware of. Not sure camera lenses were that robust back then 🤣

For us the acoustic thing wasn’t a conscious decision, it just kind of fell into place. However the nice thing is, based on our experience at least, that it seems to be far less polarising for the audience than many full band situations can be. Whatever the reason it’s certainly worked for us so far, fingers crossed.

I agree. I think there should also be sections for other rare and esoteric basses: Ugly basses Basses people are selling because they don't like them. Basses that sound horrible Basses that people don't really want to sell but are just testing the water or mollifying an annoyed spouse.

Interesting contribution to a thread titled "RHCP fans"

There's a simple, folkloric solution to this common problem. Crack a hazelnut and the sound of it cracking will awaken the spirit goblin who guards your house and he'll restore the top end. Give it a try and let us know how you get on.

...and as if by majik...

What do you think?

Or even better, the original ones :

I gigged this AH200 outside at the weekend through a Bergantino HD210. Performs like a 500 watter. No roadie necessary even for a wimp like me!