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Showing content with the highest reputation on 14/07/23 in all areas

  1. New bass day! Hagström hIIbn from 1975. A thing of beauty and it plays great! Surprisingly resonant and light considering it is made of birch as well. Chords sound beautiful with both pickups engaged and it sounds absolutely massive cranked up.
    9 points
  2. Selling this super cool Warwick Streamer Stage II from ‘91. Sadly got to move it on for money reasons so no trades on this. Now on eBay, taking bids till Sunday evening: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145217204920?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1tgvpeZUT4a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=1tgvpeZUT4a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Most obvious striking detail is the refinish job. Refinished in black, it looks amazing and and relics really nicely from use. The neck has been left visible which gives a super striking appearance. Weight: 9.6lbs Original MEC pickups (I believe) & original MEC preamp. Pots are a little scratchy. Truss rod has been checked by a tech for issues and it’s got the all clear. Neck is straight & frets are in good condition, if maybe a little low from work done over the years. Tuners have been upgraded to hip-shot tuners. I don’t have the originals. Collection is much preferred but can arrange delivery at an agreed price. any questions please ask!
    8 points
  3. I've hankered after a P bass body bass with JJ pups (think Willie Weeks) installed but I could never find one that had a downsized light weight body... till I got my Sandberg. It did have a pickguard but I liked it off. So I took the bass to a local(ish) guy; 'Paul Richardson Guitars' and got him to route the body and create a new pickguard that would cover the existing route. I pick the bass up tomorrow but I was so excited when he put a pic up on FB that I had to share. The body was CNC routed and the pickguard done by hand. The close ups of the guard show that he has cut it so precisely with amazing tolerances. I'll feed back tomorrow after I've collected it... and gigged it a couple hours later in the afternoon. It has flats, do I go rounds?
    8 points
  4. ....and doing an amazing job! 😁 I'm the recovering player - two retinal detachments and a vitrectomy in my left eye. Had a single one in my right in 2017....never thought I'd go through this again..... Sad to be missing some cracking gigs, but many thanks to Martin for stepping in and doing brilliantly. Legend! 🙏
    6 points
  5. Whilst waiting for Phil's design to appear, I had a bit of a virtual chinwag with him and he was kind enough to share some info on the new 8" cab we're all chatting about. I'm an impatient beggar, so i've gone off piste and drawn my own on CAD. I had the 12mm ply panels to make a third BC110T in my shed, so I ripped them down with a saw and sled last night and got busy. I've air nailed and glued a side and the back to the base and marked up the holes for cutting out this evening. I've then got to make up my bracing parts and fit them before fitting the baffle, other side and top. I've also gone a bit rogue with the porting. I've opted to go a bit bigger, but still tune to phils intentions. THIS IS NOT PHILS DESIGN - His (undoubtedly better) design will be along soon. Mrs Glambass kindly delivered me a cup of tea last night and exclaimed "It's tiny!" - not the first time i've heard her say that..... Looking forward to seeing how it turns out visually and sonically Cheers!
    6 points
  6. Hi all, Reduced from £3850 - £2950. This is my lowest price before it gets sold to the guitar shop ! I'd like to present for sale my lovely Hofner 500/1 Beatle Bass, right handed, made in Germany in 1964. As my playing style changes, I find that it's living in it's case far more frequently, and really deserves to be enjoyed. I'll list what I know to be true of this instrument: Built in Germany in 1964, it was sold to it's first owner by the Selmer Company, Charing Cross Road, London (Selmer Serial Number 1141 ). In the same year, Paul McCartney's presentation bass arrived at the same location. Perhaps the two basses rubbed wings at some point. The 2nd owner bought this in 1966, and kept it for 54 years, until he sold it to me in 2020. I was living in Finland at the time, and flew to London to collect it from a rather splendid Gentleman who felt that it was time for it to move on. Having relocated to North Scotland soon after, I carried out a few reversible modifications to the bass. I fitted Labella Flatwound strings, and removed the pickguard. Both the original strings and pickguard come with the bass. The bass was then sent to my trusted luthier for a set up and check, and he also moved the rear strap button from it's very odd angled location, and fitted it to the proper location of the bridge plate. ( a tiny mark is left, but it's barely noticeable ). The bass was also cleaned and had some tarnishing removed from the hardware. A bespoke strap extender was added to the new Hofner strap, to prevent any damages to the bass from the bulldog clip. The bass did not require any setting of the neck or electrical work, as it was all perfect. Electrical work was carried out prior to my purchase, of which I still have the receipt. Just last month ( Sep 23' ) I fitted a brand new original German control panel with switches as the original was crackling when selecting the bridge pickup. The old control panel has been kept, and I'll include it with the sale for originality purposes. The bass plays beautifully and without fault. I'd describe the condition as 9/10 for the age, and, in my humble opinion, you'd be hard pushed to find something of a similar vintage in such good condition. There are a few nicks on the body, and a touch of wear on the neck, but nothing really for it's 60th year. The neck is absolutely solid, and shows zero sign of separation. Curiously, the case I received it in is not a Selmers tweed case, but rather a square hardcase. I am unaware of it's origin, but it looks to be as old as the bass itself. All of the original components are included in the sale. I've priced it in accordance to what I see online already, and going with the great, playable condition that it's in. I am however open to serious offers around the asking price. I'm located in Thurso. That's at the very top of Scotland. Logistics for delivery etc would need to be worked out obviously, but I'm sure a solution could be found. Any trial, if you're in the area, would be more than welcomed. I've posted up as much pics as I have, but if you need a video of it being played ( badly ), or more pictures, info etc, just hit me up. Cheers, George
    5 points
  7. Hi all Up for sale here is one of my own builds. There are quite a few basschatters now with my builds/nitro finishes so I’m happy to put you in touch with them if you’d like feedback on the fit and finish of these. This one is made up of top quality parts and comes in at 8.6lbs/9kg. I can also sell it with one of the amazing Novak Vintage Correct Goldfoil pickups but that will add £100 or so to the price. Open to offers. Let me know if you have any questions, it’s a lovely bass. Brilliant chunky Allparts neck with hand rolled fingerboard edges and a nice satin finish to the back. The lollar hum cancelling pickup gets that raw single coil P sound without the noise! Spec below: - Allparts Fender Licensed Neck with Fender Decal THIS IS NOT A FENDER BASS - 100% nitro black over sunburst finish with lots of lacquer checking - 3 Piece Lightweight Alder Body - Heavy Knurled Relic Knobs and Control Plate - Fender Bridge - Gotoh Relic Tuners and Strap Buttons - Graphtech nut - Lollar Hum Cancelling Pickup - Reliced vintage style flat head screws throughout
    5 points
  8. it went very well. About 3 weeks later I got the call again as te bass had just detached a retina. I've now done 2 to 3 a weekend with them and will be until the end of July. It's certainly got my chops back up to speed
    5 points
  9. For sale, a fantastic example on an early Classic Vibe Precision. Pretty much spotless as far as I can see, no dings or scratches. A little bit of tarnishing to the neck plate, some screws and to the pickup poles. Currently wearing TI flats. Weight approx 9.5lb. I bought this on here a few months ago and as lovely as it is, the neck's just a bit too slim for me - I prefer the chunkier profile on my 50s Precisions. I won't be upset if it doesn't sell as it's lovely. I'm not particularly looking for trades but you never know... Collection from Dartford or can meet up somewhere.
    4 points
  10. Any strings is pointless the more you think about it. Life is suffering.
    4 points
  11. Leo got it right and anything that tries to look different tends to have ergonomic issues - except this of course 😊
    4 points
  12. Everything in that video is achievable as long as you aren't a cack handed klutz. 😁 Seriously though, with care and patience you can do everything pretty much as he says in the video. There's a couple of of bits that make me wince but that's just me being fussy. Rubbing in straight lines with your fingertips, in the same direction as your fingers are pointing is a no no, you'll encourage a rippley surface. Use a rubber block with the paper and rub at forty-five degrees to direction the block is facing, ie aim the front edge of the block at twelve o'clock but rub the block towards two o'clock (ish). It stops the edge of the block making lines. For the areas a block isn't suitable use your fingers but keep your hand flat and rub more with pads of your fingers and the area between the two finger joints rather than the tips, also use that same forty-five degree motion as much as possible, or ninety degrees to fingers, never in line with your fingers. Also stay away from the corners, I know it doesn't have corners but I mean rub the front and back down, then all around the sides and leave the little roundover until last and just give it a tickle with some fine paper, this will be the easiest part to rub through, which you want to avoid. As with anything, the more care and time you take the better the end result.
    4 points
  13. The trouble with buying these is that I'd have to pop a new bass in the order to get free shipping.
    4 points
  14. For the best IMO. In the innocent days of my childhood that flag just symbolises Smokey and the bandit, The dukes of hazard (those shorts and that car) Rockabilly and something far more exciting than dull and grey suburbia. Not anymore. Full history here for anyone interested: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modern_display_of_the_Confederate_battle_flag
    4 points
  15. Here we have a a Precision that I have put togeather. I bought the body off a fellow Basschatter, here is his description on the body which is from Guitar build I bought this used, and the original description said: "Hand finished in nitro it has been bleached with Oxalic acid then aniline dyed yellow under the sealer coat as per older 50’s/60’s factory process to give a strong yellow centre. Sunburst then applied over sealer coat with three coats of clear gloss and buffed" There is some (lovely) Relicing - see photos. The finish will become even more beautiful as it continues to age naturally. I have installed new EMG Geezer Butler signature pickups The pickguard I also got off here, its from WD music The tuners on the neck are Gotoh and fitted the existing holes perfectly The neck I have had this neck for some time and it came on a precision body which I have used for a project. The neck is the star here, when I got it the headstock logo had been badly scraped and and was in a terrible mess so I sanded down and applied a Fender logo and lacquered. Now i have had many basses over the many years that I have played and Im pretty sure that this one is an early eighties and possibly from a SQ as it has the same feel and fit as a SQ precision that I once owned and definately Japanese, truss rod at the heel, nice nut and board. You know that a neck is good the moment you put your hand on it and this one has that feel, apart from the headstock logo the rest of the neck is perfect. Maybe somebody who looks at this might be better informed than me but IMHO its good. Very little fret wear and truss rod turns both ways In total this has cost me more than the asking price but Im sure you wont be dissapointed. Any questions please fire away
    3 points
  16. Perhaps I should sell this one: higher fight class weight, higher price, older, less strings...?
    3 points
  17. I have provided PA and lights to my current Ceilidh band (in which I play melodeon) for about 25 years, without charging. The old kit is now getting a bit heavy for us to lug around (It hasn't got any heavier, but we're all getting old and decrepit). I said to the band that I needed to modernise it to a lighter system, but would have to charge a bit per gig (not so many these days). Tha band all said NO! You buy it, tell us what it costs and we'll all contribute equally, BUT the PA remains yours. I.e they appreciate the free use over the last 25 years, and are happy to pay restropectively for its use. I consider myself very fortunate to have such good bandmates (Who thankfully can all afford to make that offer). Perhaps I should have posted this in the "Daily Awesomeness" thread.
    3 points
  18. It actually seems like a whole new fretboard has been applied. Personally, in this case, I wouldn't go the way of semi-restoring and take this bass as it is as long as sound and playability are good. Seems like a great bass; cool looks with a nice grain in the wood, EMG
    3 points
  19. Apologies for a second go but the food link made me greedy and I got on a bit of a (Bao) Roll...... Kung Po Fighting - Carl Douglas or howzabout Too Much Foo Yung - The Specials
    3 points
  20. For more decades than I wish to relate, I've always been the one to own, outright, the PA, lights, van etc for the bands I've been a member of. Any band mates (and others, if they're trustworthy...) can use any of the stuff if they want, if I/we are not using it. I charge nothing to anyone for any of this (it's all been paid for long ago...), and am beholden to no-one, and am free to do as I think fit. All my own drums, naturally, but I've also a wide selection of basses and bass amps, guitars and guitar amps (some of which are currently out on long-term loan to friends...). I've never been rich (obviously...) and have worked (in modest jobs that I liked...) to feed the family and acquire the gear I wanted. I don't feel that there have been any sacrifices, and I've never been betrayed in my open trust in others (except that one time when Laurent returned my bass drum having cut a 'port' of sorts in the resonant head; I was not pleased...). Karma..? I'll see about that later, when I'm old. Life can be so simple when one avoids complicating it (or maybe I've just always been lucky...).
    3 points
  21. The cheapest way to get good quality cables to make them yourself using Van Damme cable and Neutrik plugs. Pretty much anything ready made by a largish brand is going to be seriously overpriced. There are some people making custom cables at a decent price (generally using the above components) but all the ones I know are in the UK, so shipping to Denmark will make them too expensive. If you don't want the hassle of making your own, you'll need to find a local equivalent of Designacable. BTW all cables will affect the tone to some degree unless they are only a few feet long, IME when people say a cable isn't affecting the tone what they really mean is it's not affecting the tone in a way they find displeasing.
    3 points
  22. My first thought when I read this was intimidating - "what if I f**k up?" - but the more I've thought about it the less intimidating its become. After all what happens when we're jamming? If we can't get it by ear we can always look at the guitard and read the chords they're playing. That's how I work out songs when jamming normally. Feels like a confidence thing - once we've "got it" it's not an issue but learning something from scratch can cause a bit of anxiety. Believing in our own ability can be the biggest obstacle.
    3 points
  23. Not tried one but look pretty cool and nice nod to sustainability (non nitro/PU paint) https://www.trentguitars.com/purchase/p/model1bass
    3 points
  24. Here's a pic for you @Cosmo Valdemar Still a big part of me wants to strip this bass, despite the very high quality of the current finish and relic work - and blondify it al la Tumahai/BBD, that bass was an iconic part of my youth! Problem is, I'd do all that work and probably still sell it 🤔
    3 points
  25. Yet another set of pickups and electronics. The white looks a little bright compared to the rest of the bass, but they sound fantastic.
    3 points
  26. I’ve got the Bam 200. Much quieter than the Elf I owned, but if I’m honest I preferred the sound of the Elf (any swappers ? 😂). One thing about the Bam is that it gets hot, but this is normal apparently - very clean sounding.
    3 points
  27. Hi guys, Looking for a bit of help/guidance/advice here regarding a fretless P-bass my dad has had for donkeys years and by osmosis came to be in my collection. As far as we're both aware, it's a mid/late-70's P-Bass, original body and neck, and that's about as far as the knowledge goes. If anyone is good at dating serial numbers do chime up! The main point of contention is how many mods have actually been made to the bass itself. From what I can tell, it looks like it was not originally fretless. If you look carefully at the underside of what I think is an ebony fretboard -It's incredibly dark and doesn't feel like typical rosewood to me - you can see what looks like filled-in fret markers, especially at the 12th fret. The bass has a skunk stripe too, which I was always led to believe meant it would likely have a maple one-piece neck. My dad thinks it's always been a fretless, I'm just not buying it. The active electronics are 100% not original, nor is the bridge and what looks like a strange silver foil shielding job? Any insights here appreciated! I believe the J pickup has been routed out specifically to add these pickups, relatively professionally if I do say so myself, and either side of the bridge are these odd circle pin things that I'm assuming were put there after an ashtray was removed from the original. I'm considering whether I should try to restore as much of the bass to original if possible, what people's recommendations would be to go about that r.e. pickup selections and whether to refret it (if anyone knows any good luthiers in the midlands that could handle such a job I would be appreciative!). I think it's a gorgeous instrument let down a bit by lack of care from the previous owner before us - no mods were done by myself or my dad, it is as we received. Cheers!
    2 points
  28. October 2023 update Unfortunately I've had a change in personal circumstances which means that I really need to shift this bass. I've dropped the sale price to £600 accordingly. Thanks! ------------------ I may end up regretting selling this bass, but I sadly have no space for it in my collection! Like many, my first bass was an Encore P-Bass in a delightful Candy Apple red. After enough saving - helped by generous Christmas and Birthday gifts - I bought my first "real" Fender Precision from my local Dawsons, and this was the bass that saw me through my teenage years. It was a great looking and great playing bass, yet in my infinte wisdom I sold it. I can't recall what replaced it - it could have been a Cowpoke Precision, or possibly a Status Shark - but I know that I came to regret selling it. So when I had the opportunity to buy another one in recent years, I just *had* to have it! So why am I selling it now? The simple answer is that I treated myself to a SIMS custom shop bass with a real flame maple blueburst finish, tort scratchplate, graphite neck and Quad pickups, so this bass really is redundant! The serial number places it as a 1994/95 made bass, and for those unaware the blue fotoflame finish is some sort of lacquer - i.e. it's not a real stain over a flame maple finish. The lacquer is prone to cracking near points of stress - like the neck plate and the bridge, and while there's some bit of cracking, I've been told that this is actually quite mild compared with other basses this age. There are also a few other superficial scratches and dents which I've tried to photo. The bass originally came with a white scratchplate (which I don't have), but I think the tort looks much better - but the fit is not 100% perfect so when it is removed it is prone to scratching the very side of the neck - which I've shown in the photos. The bass went in for a repair about a month ago to have some loose connections in the electrics sorted, and it also had a full set-up and neck realignment at the same time. Collection from Widnes is naturally preferred, but I'm happy to ship if you arrange for courier collection. It will ship in a padded gig bag as well as cardboard box that I've received other bass guitars in. The weight per my bathroom scales is 4.3kg / 9.5lbs. Thanks for looking!
    2 points
  29. Here’s one of my fav p basses for sale. Basically that’s a custom shop palladino p bass (neck stamps are from 2008). handmade docwoodguitars replica body: lightweight alder body, nitro lacquer finish, same routings as the real deal. Fender correct vintage & aged hardware. I can ship worldwide
    2 points
  30. I think of the B, A, D, G and C as extensions to the E string, you don't really need any of them but makes life better!
    2 points
  31. Oh dear, I can see the headlights going towards woods. The woods of Tone...
    2 points
  32. Seems I’m doomed for this to keep happening too as I haven’t bought from there before and one can only add one’s address at the point of purchase. ☹️
    2 points
  33. 2 points
  34. My blues-rock trio Toredown are 'headlining' the Beetroot, Beer and Blues Festival at The Wheatsheaf, Tattingstone, tomorrow 8pm-10pm. I think the downpours and thunderstorms will have finished by the time we are on, leaving just the 50mph gusts of wind to contend with. Do pop along if you fancy holding down a corner of our banner or gazebo. Eating beetroot isn't compulsory so don't let that put you off.
    2 points
  35. Thanks for the replies. I like the idea of the spray trigger. Sanding at 45 degrees, I sort of get it. Just don't go straight forward. I guess I need to sand delicately and not just go at it! Slow and steady wins the race.
    2 points
  36. Hello guys Bought this bass to cover a few gigs, now is time to let it go. Good player, everything works as it should. Lovely action, active electronic, PJ pickup setup. Just a few cosmetic issues as per pictures. The previous owner added a scratchplate. Collection from South London CR0 0LT I'm moving to South Yorkshire in the next few days, could drop/meet somewhere on the way with no extra costs No bag/case WhatsApp Video 2023-07-05 at 10.47.40.mp4
    2 points
  37. 2 points
  38. Gorgeous bass, and Tom is an absolute gent! Great price for one of these too!
    2 points
  39. Blimey. All the best for the recovery.
    2 points
  40. It's a sunk cost. I'd suggest you include something like an independent valuation when a member leaves. And then the remaining 4 members of the band then pay him 1/4 of 1/5 of what it's worth and so on. So 1/4 of 1/5 when 1st leaves (4 original members left) 1/3 of 1/4 when 2nd leaves (3 original members left) 1/2 of 1/3 when 3rd leaves (2 original members left) Split when last original leaves. If at any point the new member is happy to pay the share it's all good. If the band completely folds the PA gets sold (either to a 3rd party, or a present memeber) and the money split equally. You should work out what happens if the remaining members of the band can't afford to pay for the fraction of the leaving member outright. Like pay back the money gradually over an agreed timescale. You must agree at the outset to have an independent valuation, and everyone needs to be aware the gear depreciates and they're getting benefit of its use in return. Members can't expect to get their original money back. Splitting a PA into 5 chunks makes it worthless to all 5 of you.
    2 points
  41. 2 points
  42. Not when you scale the bass up to match the regular scale length
    2 points
  43. My new Duesenberg Fairytale Split/King Please excuse our cats' "Rory G" cushion I'm getting on with it slowly, but surely. As I'm well used to a "Low" G tuning on guitar, I'm basically using the same shapes/scale positions, but as if I'm playing a string down. Meaning the bottom string in D or E is the root note, rather than the G tuning's bottom string being a 5th below. I'm having more trouble with my right hand, as I'm not comfy with wearing fingerpicks. Though this could be be because they're not a great fit. I'm not touching the levers yet I've been having a look at these lessons for basic d tuning lap steel, in order to try and get the fingerpick thing down. I've bought the first five lessons. The reason I jumped in the deep end was because I didn't want a cheapy to learn on (I know I'll stick it), and then had the hassle of selling that, then going for this. I'll be selling one of my Ibby's (probably the SR600E) as I fancy something in C6 to use with the many books for this tuning, and then apply that to the Fairytale. Thinking along the lines of this Epiphone Electar Centur or this Gretsch G5700 (which could be retro fitted with levers), but I've got to crawl before I walk.
    2 points
  44. Could work. Time for a technical rehearsal to see if it does. For a situation like this, you'll probably be much better off with a decent parametric EQ with at least 4 bands all with level frequency and Q controls, or a graphic with a lot more bands than those on the Boss so you can hone in on just the problem frequencies.
    2 points
  45. Hey Folks! i hope you’re all doing well. I thought this one might be of interest to some of you! it’s my all original 66p! The lacquer checking is pretty special right?? She’s the perfect weight too at 8.5lbs! 👍🏼
    2 points
  46. I think it's probably a Zephyr. The Grind had a cut-out area on the lower horn for slap players to get in under the strings. Zephyrs did have contrasting woods in the body though, so I'm not sure. Grinds have through-body stringing and Zephyrs don't. Zephyr 5: Grind 5 BXP:
    2 points
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