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"unexpected stool content" ... Yes, I am a ten year old trapped in a middle aged body.

Few months back I got thinking if I was happy with my tone from my Dingwall basses… and the answer was “ish”. But I always loved my Status basses. Given my band were down at G# i thought there was no way I could use one again. My guitarist suggested trying to play at A# on a 5, so much more attainable and likely stable. And it worked, most of our stuff can be done at half step down, and for those G# times the Quad Cortex does a fine job. So, given Rob was feeling better and making basses again - albeit wooden with graphite reinforcement - I decided to place an order for a CW-2 with blue tint and white LEDs. I’d been after this combo for years. I thought the bass would still sound good, even though it wasn’t rocking as much carbon graphite as my CW-1. Possibly different, but still good! It has now arrived and… it’s fantastic. Great feeling, and the sound is awesome. Very similar to the CW-1. I went straight into a session to record a new track and it sat so well. I’m a very happy bunny. I am now considering selling my Dingwall 😂 potentially ordering another Status! If you’re considering a new Status, but think “oh they’re not made of graphite now”; don’t worry. They are still sounding brilliant. Genuinely excellent basses!

I’m pretty much finished building my new fly board but I have a little bit of space on the lower deck of the board for some kind of micro pedal. I’m looking for something to fill that space that I don’t need to access often, like an always on pedal. Set it and forget it kind of thing. Does anyone have any suggestions of something that could fit in that little space? Signal path for those that are interested…. Harmonic Booster (always on) > Eons > Infinity > Julia > Delverb > Looper > Element. I use the tuner and compressor on the Infinity so not really looking for a separate pedal for those needs

The Earl Haig with Bluesfire today, a short-notice gig to fill in for a very good local band. Good numbers, maybe 100 at the start, quite a few more by the end. Setting up, a dodgy di lead on my amp was freaking when the spots turned on. Took a while to track down. But we had the full light show, there will be photos. First half it seemed ok to us, but apparently sound was very harsh. Our sound guy unfamiliar with house pa. Second half sounded better apparently. Audience randomly joined in the vocals for sharp dressed man, quite a lot of dancing and upriarious applause. Although some of the time we couldn't see the audience for smoke. Lots of happy, enthusiastic punters and great feedback. Alex got a few sets of applause for his solos, was like a jazz gig! Apparently the bit where we co-ordinate and Alex does trills and I do finger tapping was 'epic' - we think it's silly but fun 😁 Lost track of time so started to finish early but ended up doing three encores. Were taken aback to get applause just for starting Purple Rain. Final song was let's stick together which gets manic and my fingers started behaving oddly and then virtually cramped up... just made it to then end.

Saturday night to Trowbridge Steam Fair - usual set up, gennys rattling away, traction engines puffing about, beer tent with pallets for our stage, soggy field after epic rainstorms during the day. It was a closed event for the exhibitors who had clearly decided to have a good time and get into the cider and ale for a serious session. Our dep gitrist from Weymouth (even further to drive than my 65 miles) fitted in well, just lost it a couple of times in my sax set (he did OK considering how few covers bands in the area suddenly launch into sax-led numbers like One Step Beyond, Midnight Hour and Geno after the standard guitry crowd pleasers) Long day, got home at 01:05. Cat was not pleased at the lack of pandering since 5.30pm previous afternoon! Pic below is of me being a poseur (aka knob) on sax during 'Geno'

You can keep my jealousy in there!

Rumble 800 Head and 2 x 210 ! Nice together with an old P

"Ive taken up playing bass guitar, Mrs Saunders" "I can see you like to do it standing up with a strap on, Mr Gimlet" "Yib!Yib! Pmnff!Pmnff! Weep!Weep!"

A couple of pics to “fix” that bass.

EnoFest in Durham, North Carolina

Haven't seen this yet, but should be good. Only broadcast in Northern Ireland but now on iPlayer for 11 months. https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m00206t5/the-rory-gallagher-story?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR2XFBxI1Kof2npKFVsJHY24FS_-pRzq3eGQFhczYeD9nfGUnK8psb8_Dzk_aem_ZmFrZWR1bW15MTZieXRlcw

I'd buy an Ender 3 Pro or similar. get the latest version as it's cheap and does a good job for the price. They are between £200 and £300 depending on the version and the functionality. Get a magentic mat so you aren't messing around with glass beds for your first printer. Some people will argue that it teaches you about the basics of printing, so does winding your own bass strings, make it easy for yourself. If you can afford a printer with automatic bed levelling, thats the one to go for. Do not be fooled by adverts of bikini clad men and women (I'm not sexist) oozing about these incredible prints. They might not be telling the truth. Also do not be seduced by no name brands. Get a few rolls of the same brand of filament, preferably PLA or PLA+. Ignore PETG, ABS, TPU, CF and anything else. Some of these are difficult to print, some of these are very difficult to print and some of these are toxic to print with. get the same brand so you can learn what temperatures work. 3d printing is very temperature sensitive. My printign values in my house on my Prusa are going to be different to yours on a different printer and bed. Get the same brand as you have a fighting chance of doing the same print twice. Ask questions, ask lots of questions in this thread. I think this is the main thread for this sort of thing on Basschat unless I'm told otherwise. When you think you have asked far too many questions, keep asking. You can make a lot of simple mistakes doing all this, I know as I made most of all of them. I may have even invented some new mistakes all on my own. I'm good like that. Start small and learn. Learn how to bed level, learn about temperatures for PLA and PLA+, learn the workglow of going from a model to something printed. You will need a printer, a slice (new term, this takes a model and slices it into layers for your printer to print. Your printer is pretty dumb, until recently your microwave could probably outthink it. You dumb phone certainly could and your smartphone is at Einstein level. The slice takes a complex 3d model and converts this into information that your coffee machine can understand. (and thats more intelligent than your printer). Your slicer has to communicate with your printer so use an SD card that you know works. If you are lucky your new printer may have an Ethernet port or WiFi port. This makes life a little easier. Once you have a sliced model, you load it into your printer, tell it to print (you have read the instruction manual that appears to be written in something that looks and resembles English but isn't quite). Get another good book, something big and heavy and wait. And wait, and wait and wait. 3d printing is not for the impatient. Models take a long time to print, big models take the cube of a small model to print. 8-10 hours, a mere blink of an eye, 20-30 hours, thats not bad, 50-70 hours. Thats serious printing. Start small and stay small is my advice. Only go big when you need to. Ask questions, did I say that before? Ask and ask and ask and watch videos. 90% of the videos on 3d printing are self congratulatory middle aged bearded bankers (spelling mistake) showing you their latest Ironman mask. These are often recorded in a dark basement where they still live with their parents. These are badly filmed, unedited, an awful lot of bad facial hair, bad dress sense with bad 2000's black t-shirts advertising bands no one has ever heard of in Seattle, Wisconsin or Immingham. These are a waste of your life, 20 mins of watching somebody attempt to speak a cohrent sentence with 7 consecutive umms or ahh's, severe camera shake, that could be condensed to 45 seconds is 20 mins you will never get back. Choose your videos carefully, if they have less than 500 followers, go elsewhere. Learn to use a design package. There are loads of free ones. Good ones take time to learn. I am still learning Fusion 360 after nearly four years. In my defence this is not my primary job. Ask questions and put the time in. You do not need to be a programmer or devops to learn Fusion460 or OnShape or FreeCad or SCAD or whatever, you need to learn to think the way they think and sometimes thats hard. Keep trying, it will take time but you'll get there. Ask questions (I might have mentioned that) and keep trying things out. never stop learning, I haven't. Thanks Rob

Or if you are a tone purist:

Had to share this. It’s Harvey mason- chameleon band at the Java jazz festival. Freddie’s playing is so good. Pocket legend but so groovy. He has the special sauce. I LOVE how he makes those Bartolini’s sing. Wow. Kamasi is a legend in my eyes. enjoy. I did.

Not sure about gig posters but I am very pleased with my new avatar

And killed off the slower, weaker brain cells, leaving only the fit, healthy ones.

Thomas Lang and I make up the rhythm section for this massive prog production featuring The City of Prague Philharmonic Orchestra!! Arjen Lucassen and Marco Sfogli guest. Line-up / Musicians - Youmna Jreissati / vocals - Elia Monsef / vocals, charango, acoustic guitar, programming, composer, arranger, producer - Alain Ibrahim / rhythm & acoustic guitars - Danny Bou-Maroun / keyboards, piano, percussion, programming, orchestration & conducting, composer, arranger, producer - Alexander Abi Chaker / percussion (1,2,4,5,8) With: - Michael Mills / vocals (as Utopia) - Marco Sfogli / guitar (1-3,5,8,11) - Özgür Abbak / guitar solo (6) - Arjen Anthony Lucassen / guitar solo (9) - Jokine Solban / violin solo (2) - Yamane Al Hage / violin solo (3,8,9) - Roger Smith / cello (1,10,12) - Nobuko Miyazaki / flute (9,11) - Mohannad Nassar / oud (5,10) - Dan Veall / bass - Thomas Lang / drums - The City of Prague Philharmonic Orchestra - The Lebanese Filmscoring Ensemble / string quartet

Queen, "We Will Rock You", and Queen, "We Will Rock You"

Why choose? You could hate them both!

Great gig at Black Deer Festival yesterday. We may have been on one of the smaller stages (Caffe Nero tent) but the vibe of the place was great and we had a laugh. We had a special guest with us playing second acoustic guitar and - more importantly perhaps - lap steel, which added a whole new layer to the live sound. (There’s a thread on here investigating the use of the original album instrumentation tracks in the future but having Cris on stage with us was so cool). Muddy as hell, all my cases, cables, pedalboard and cab need a damn good clean today, as does my car which almost got stuck in the car park when I was leaving after the mighty Sheryl Crow and her band had played a cracking set on the main stage. Oh, and there was a wicked drone show at the end. I need to go re learn 1 song which I kept getting in the wrong order in my head, and learn how to live with a big hat, a mic stand and no space to move around 🤣 But other than that, awesome 🤠

One of the great things about Basschat is that you can put up an advert for what you want and people with that item can contact you. Also Basschat is mostly a safe place with good people. However, it is still a public forum where people who aren't so great can join. Recently we have had a few notifications from members who were contacted by people who have been here ages, offering great deals with pictures. These messages have some things in common. * The user has been here a long time but hasn't posted in ages * The image is exactly what you asked for * The user wants paying only in Paypal Friends And Family (note, you shouldn't use this payment anyway if you don't 100% trust the person) The whole point of "Wanted" is to get things you want, but please be cautious. Check that if the person contacting you has been a member for a long time, they haven't had a large break in posting - If you click their name to see their history, did that history stop in say, 2014, with nothing until last week? If you have been provided with pictures, do the following: 1. Download one of the pictures 2. Go to google.com, click on the top right where it says 'images' 3. Click the icon in the search bar that is a bit like a camera, next to the magnifying glass. 4. Click 'Upload a file' and upload the image you downloaded in 1 5.. On the right there will be loads of similar images, but at the top of the left section there will be a button marked 'find image source' If that actual image (not just something like it) appears on the internet, there will be a link to where it was shown. Now if that image is on another site, it could well be that the user is also selling the item there, but as most of the links I have found tend to lead to Bassics.de or craigslist in California, you can be reasonably confident that they aren't the actual seller. If in doubt, you can always ask the user for another photo that they haven't provided such as 'can I see an image of the right side' or something, a genuine user selling something of many £100s shouldn't have an issue with that. And remember, like so many things in life, if it doesn't feel right, don't do it! Also if you do come across issues like this, just report the post and we can look into it, even if it is a message.

Great points Rob. I'd probably lean more towards an Anycubic (When I was still musing about restoring my Prusa, I was very close to buying a Kobra 2 Pro ... they had good reviews and are fast), the Enders have a great community but have always struck me more as a tinkerer's machine. I started out using Freecad but when I started designing more complex (not crazy complex mind you) things I ran into massive reliability issues, models would just stop working. I've been playing with the free version of Fusion 360 for a couple of years now and find it is spot on, very powerful, loads of videos on how to do stuff with it and it has yet to bomb out on me. Youtube videos, despite loads of facial hair, I have found good value from https://www.youtube.com/@MadeWithLayers https://www.youtube.com/@3DPrintingNerd https://www.youtube.com/@ChrisRiley content strikes me as sound and I enjoy their presenting styles but of course ymmv. Sam x

The American. Simple Minds

That could be a shout! I’ve never seen those before. I’ll have to do some reading.

Joni - Both Sides Now Recorded twice for two different albums around 30 years apart. Both versions taking on very different meanings. Just beautiful.

Also been testing out how strong PLA glues are. I have loads and loads and loads of test pieces so I thought I'd see how strong my preferred glue of choice, FloPlast is. Glued two flat bits together at right angles and put a lot of effort in to breaking the joint. The joint held and the plastic broke. Thats good, so I feel comfortable with using FloPlast as a glue. Just for information. Rob

After a lot of thinking, I have decided to keep the MK4. The issues I had/have are: 1. Display integration with Octoprint is a joke, but by putting a cheap TFT display and case on the Raspberry Pi, that replaces the MK4 display screen. I just don't look at the MK4 display now. Simple and cheap fix. Need to tidy desk as well 2. Using the TFT means I don't use PrusaLink which is not fit for purpose. 3. I still have problems with the filament sensor not detecting that I have removed the filament when it runs out. What actually happens is that the filament sensor is at the top of the extruder, it detects that the filament has finished, but there is still circa 10cm of filament past the sensor on the way to the hot end. This seems to work very well and I haven't had more than one problem. Once the sensor has detected no more filament, it moves the head to the bottom right corner and will retract the remaining filament, about 10cm, back out of the top of the extruder. This works fine. I then have to put new filament in, the sensor keeps saying that there is still filament in the extruder when its ejected it, I have to put in and pull out a strand of filament 5x to 50x before its acknowledges there is no filament actually there. It thinks there is but there isn't. Tried blowed compressed air and made sod all difference. It does work but it's annoying constantly pushing in the filament and taking it out. 4. The other issue, the BIG one, is that Prisa have not implemented the Gcode command to inform Octoprint that the filament is out. I have an Octoprint plugin that detects this command then emails me so I can having dinner downstairs and get a simple message to change filament. No need to keep my eyes glued to the printer. This is unacceptable from Prusa as it's just a firmware update. I'll be writing words to Josef Prusa on this. The upside to the Mk4 is the speed and quality. Its 2.6x faster than my MK3 due to the Input Shaping. I used the six pieces of my V3 headless as samples and used PrusaSlicer to work out how long each piece would take on a MK3S+, a MK4 (without Input Shaping) and a Mk4 with Input Shaping. So TR, Top Right, would take 794 mins, 766 mins and 295 mins below. The speed of the Mk4 without Input Shaping is pretty much the same as the MK3S+, its about 5-6% faster, which is not worth an upgrade. When you turn on Input Shaping, the difference is dramatic, it's all software (apart from a tiny accelerometer) and suddenly the MK4 is 2.6x faster, so an 88hr print (yep thats how long some things take, and I have done things that take even longer) now takes 33.5 hours. The quality is still excellent as well. A 50 hour timesaving is fantastic. I now time the long ones overnight and can do 2-3 pieces during a (long) day. When it took 88 hours, everything had to be perfect and I had to be around to change the parts, no longer. The other thing that I now know, thanks @SamIAm, is that I have a chance to upgrade my MK3S+ to use Input Shaping and possibly get the same speed up. Still investigating that one, but if so, it's a no brainer. Quality is also high, I am now printing at 0.1mm because it's so fast. Rob

The one (or would that be two.....!?!) that come to mind for me (albeit one is a '.......and........') are.... And...... I prefer the 'Fast' Version......my old guitarist, the 'Slow'......so we were going to do a mash up of both.......until the drummer threw a tantrum and quit over not being able to go to the beach......but that is another story.....!

Can't find a pic of me with a bass right now, so this is me showing off my SOUNDS freebie shirt (given away in the early 80s). The shirt is thin as heck but lovely on a hot day, there can't be many that survived - although a good condition one did turn up on eBay for £500 recently.

I recently got myself a Lekato WS-70 UHF wireless kit after getting the bug (if you'll pardon the pun) at the NW bass bash in May. Used them at a few rehearsals and a couple of gigs and it's been great so far. Loved being able to do the walk out front and check the levels. Last outing I got a quick lesson in the perils of venturing out into the crowd - some guy wanted to put his arm around my shoulder and in his uncoordinated state he managed with bullseye accuracy hit my A tuner (yes, the A) and knock it out of tune. In a further showing of surprising accuracy, it was almost exactly a semitone out, so was able to finish the song by moving up a fret on the A string until the end. Live and learn! But on a technical level, no complaints - I got no dropouts, no interference, battery is more than long lasting enough to handle a full gig (probably could chance two before absolutely needing to charge). I did suspect there was a bit of a negative effect on note sustain, but now I'm not so sure.

My experience of capturing is Tonex based - but in general I find that using the controls to make small changes on a Capture are actually damn close to how the original unit would react, but when the changes are larger that's when it starts to not react the same as the original. Subtractive EQing seems to work a lot better than Addition though. As for fully adjustable - I'm not sure that capturing is the right approach for that as it would need the user to do manually set everything in all the millions of possible settings. Modelling has to still be the way forward for that, because that is already at the component level. My concern isn't the processors etc for as component modelling gets better, it's the size of the files. They are already massive compared to the last generation, and that is the reason why there is no instant Patch changing anymore - that's why we have Snapshots / Scenes / Whatever so all the needed items are loaded into a single patch for instant use. But the bigger the files, the more DSP is needed, the fewer blocks available, or the more expensive the kit as additional DSP chips are added.

Thanks for putting me right on the capture process. I suppose what I really meant by the last question was when will the tools be available to allow users to create their own fully adjustable models which duplicate the way all the controls on the original work?

Do you not have an artistic friend you could slip a few quid to to knock one up? This sort of thing has a "thin end of the wedge" vibe about it.

Not even in a minority, I suspect

Welcome to the Light side. QC is essential to bass when used in an IEM/Ampless environment. Of course, when used in a studio there is other worldly implications. Search in the cloud for your favorite stuff. Check out the online list of devices available. I have (and use) the Mesa CA400. I use a Noble preamp capture. Parametric EQ and HPF, LPF filter. And the Darkglass 212 neo cabs sims. I need to do some captures. Once my studio is built in a couple of months I'm gonna get them done. For now, experimentation is what you should be doing.

I’ve been gigging regularly with MB stuff since 2011, during which time I’ve ended up with a LM2 and LM3 heads paired with various combinations of a TRV102 cab, TRV121 cab and a pair of STD102HF cabs. Touch wood they’ve been super reliable the entire time (they’ve done a lot of gigs with me in that time). For a long time I used the LM2 and LM3 heads into an Aguilar cab and a Schroeder cab, and when I wanted something smaller and lighter I initially resisted MB cabs. However, I went in quick succession through a Genz Benz 2x12 and a Barefaced Big Twin 2 and have to say I much preferred the MB stuff; punchy, compact, and sounded like proper bass cabs to me rather than the super-transparent Barefaced sound which wasn’t for me at all. So no I don’t think MB look very cool, they don’t really excite me much and the sound by themselves is a bit unremarkable. However cranked up live on stage (where it matters) they’ve always sounded fantastic, dead reliable and the whole lot fits in a ford fiesta.

ALL SUBMISSIONS NOW ADDED AND UP TO DATE!

Just found this, thought some may be interested.

Tee hee, couldn't leave it alone... Replaced the cream jack plate with a black one with gold screws... And added a bit of silliness...