velvetkevorkian

Ideally, as little as possible. In practice, I play a Conklin that probably weighs over 12lbs.

[quote name='Sean' post='598540' date='Sep 14 2009, 07:06 PM'][url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kotK9FNEYU&feature=related"]This [/url] is fun.[/quote] That's actually quite nauseating to watch.

Now revised to show correctly. Still seems like a pretty good deal though, especially if the Trace Elliot amp it mentions is included.

[quote name='Doddy' post='597585' date='Sep 13 2009, 07:06 PM']I have to disagree with you here. The instrument that you play has nothing to do with your ability or expression as a player. You can be playing blues badly in a grotty pub on a Fodera,does it mean you are a good player? No,it means you can afford a Fodera. If you are looking at the instrument to improve your playing,I'm sorry,but you have a warped view towards music. The technique,the expression,and most of all the music, comes firstly from the player.[/quote] I think what he was getting at was that if you buy an expensive bass, you push yourself to get the most out of it- not that it confers some magical advantage. There is a steep law of diminishing returns with electric instruments- I doubt I could bring myself to pay full whack for a Sadowsky, for example, although they're great basses, because I have basses that cost 1/20th as much but can do probably 90%+ of the same job. I've found investing my time in learning to set up my own instruments properly a better investment than going through progressively more expensive instruments.

My band basically built our style around it. [url="http://www.myspace.com/onceburningearth"]Link[/url] if you're interested.

The LM2 isn't Class D- it has a conventional (Class A or B or A/B or something) amp with a switching power supply IIRC.

[quote name='The Funk' post='593527' date='Sep 9 2009, 02:24 AM']It's the [url="http://www.cornfordamps.com/harlequin.htm"]Cornford Harlequin[/url]. Juicy little amp which gives him all the clean/crunch/cranked tones he wants, with not so much output for his talkbox as to cause him to get dizzy. It keeps up well with the DW Mini Kit our drummer gigs with. He tried gigging with a 120W Matamp head and two Marshall 2x12s but it was just too loud. The height of the Matamp/Marshall stack also meant that his cabs bled into his vocal/talkbox mic on small stages, and then his monitor would also sometimes reflect into his cab mic and vocal mic, creating a swirling mush with additional highly directional, piercing icepick sounds coming from his cabs if you happened to be standing in the wrong part of the crowd. For Foolish Earthlings, the 6W Cornford works brilliantly. For our doom metal side project, the Matamp is the ideal head - but different, less directional cabs would be great. I find the Marshall cabs to be piercing straight on (although it's probably not a uniquely Marshall phenomenon). I know SRV had diffusors fitted to the front of his guitar speakers so as to make the sound less directional. They are available pretty cheaply online but I'm not sure how effective they are. If they really work and mean that guitarists can hear themselves while not standing directly in front of their cabs, I think everyone should use them to avoid volume wars. Not sure what you can do with a basher of a drummer except for to stick him on a smaller kit. They mic up so much better than the big ones![/quote] Sounds like a job for the [url="http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/XFCabs.html"]BFM XF cabs.[/url]

[quote name='stevebasshead' post='594166' date='Sep 9 2009, 06:47 PM']*Gentle sigh* Life is easy, people make it complicated. The only [b]rule [/b]that needs to be in place is "[b]Be honest [/b]in your dealings while making use of this website". I don't see that sellers can be under [b]any obligation [/b]to pander to the whims and vagaries of potential customers preferences for the format of an advert or the manner in which the seller wishes to conduct their sale. As Ped rightly says above, there's a divide of opinion expressed throughout this thread which pretty much precludes any further rules without coming down in favour of any one side or the other. If anything all that's needed is a handy guide as to how to maximise your sale's exposure and minimise the more obvious queries from potential customers, but just that - a guide. Otherwise [i]every [/i]for sale posting will have to be examined by a Mod to ensure it has adhered to any rules (at this point I'll refer you, dear reader, to my first sentence in this posting ) If sellers want to limit their potential audience, [i]or simply prefer conducting their sale a particular way[/i], then us potential customers shouldn't be dictating how they go about it. Their likelihood of a sale and the final price will stand or fall by the seller's decision.[/quote] Agree 100%. Case closed

Although I seem to recall they had a big f**k-off PA to put it all through, and no monitors they had to waste any power amps on.

It bugs me but I usually just send a PM asking what price they're after- if they can't give one I'll usually be on my way.

Just checked the E on my double bass and its at about 13mm at the octave, which I thought was quite high. Not compared to that, though!

What are you man, a gorilla?

Why is it called a Ray 35 then? Weird.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='592806' date='Sep 8 2009, 12:31 PM']If you rehearse with a drummer using sticks then you need earplugs. Alex[/quote] +approx nine billion.

[quote name='JPJ' post='592589' date='Sep 8 2009, 12:30 AM']Good point. But there's two things in favour of the 35, firstly, you can beat the feeling of walking out of a music shop with a new bass, and secondly, the 35 will be available on credit whereas a second hand Stingray will be cash all the way. Plus it was a mighty fine bass to look at, if only I could get away with the SR5 scratchplate [/quote] I assume the Ray 35 has a 35" scale, while a standard Stingray 5 is 34" is it not? If that's the case that's something of a "unique selling point".

Somewhat late to the party- just found my ruler! Now I'm wondering if I've screwed up my measurements- I always had my basses down as being medium/low action, as they always look to me like they could go lower, but I guess most people would class these as low. Maybe I can stop now with the compulsive setup tweaking. I'll need to see if I can't get a set of feeler gauges to get it a bit more accurate. All measurements made on the E string. Peavey Milestone III- EADG with light Elixirs 3rd: around 1mm 12th: about 1.5mm 17th: just under 2mm Peavey DynaBass 5 fretted- BEADG with light Elixirs 3rd: 1mm 12th: 2mm 17th: 2mm Peavey DynaBass 5 fretless- BEADG with light Elixirs 3rd: just over 1mm 12th: just under 2mm 17th: 2mm Conklin Groove Tools 7 string- BEADGBE with light Elixirs: 3rd: 1mm 12th: 1.5mm 17th: 2mm

Not tried the basses, but my old teacher claims they make the best Strat copies ever.

You can get free lightweight piano and Fender Rhodes plugins [url="http://www.yohng.com/rhode.html"]here[/url]. Not a lot of options but the sounds are usable.

Keytar= instant win.

You could see if flats for guitar will fit- I just fitted a guitar string on my 7 string with no problems.

Cool. It takes a bit of getting used to but is well worth it IMO.

I play with "free strokes" (as opposed to "rest strokes", which you're describing above) using a floating thumb technique. I prefer it as it minimises string noise and lets you play faster IMO. If you want to stop hitting the string below you really need to look at how the whole finger is moving and modify the whole technique- keeping the same hand position and just trying to reduce follow through will not work IME.

Or, if you like the occasional bottle of Grolsch, take a few of of the red rubber rings that they use on the flip-top bottles and stick those over the strap buttons. Probably cheaper than a proper set and you get beer as well.