Telebass

Great advice, thanks. Though I will probably chicken out and get luthier Tom Anfield in Saltash to do it - I have to see him about a new nut for my Kingman anyway.

Another vote for the VM P5! D'Addario ECB81-5s on, lovely low action, non-flubby B. 246 I paid, cheaper now! And if you're choosing between J and P Squiers, you dont have to consider the neck width, because they're the same on the 5ers.

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1422285671' post='2670667'] Makes a difference on some basses and not on others. As has been said above it should be kept in mind that 'difference' does not always mean 'improvement'. Some bridges are an improvement simply because they allow better intonation, alignment or action, others because they link the surfaces better than the original perhaps allowing more sustain (or fewer energy losses), others because they actually do alter the tone. Either way, there's a whole lot of reasons why you'd change a bridge, but I've done it many times and I'd say that tonally there are often as many improvements going from a heavy and expensive bridge like a Badass II to a Fender BBOT as there are the opposite direction. A very good example for me is my 4003, on which the brass Hipshot version bridge to my mind takes something away from the Ric tone and sustain, despite facilitating far better intonation and string alignment. I'm sure the answer to the OP's question is quite simple, you'll never know until you try a certain bridge on a certain bass. [/quote] I think Chris sums it all up best with this. However, I'm still of the opinion that you're unlikely, on average, to gain anything from swapping bridges.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1422214459' post='2669961'] And on the other hand I've had a total failure of a BBOT where the saddle collapsed mid song and cheap tuners that wont hold the strings in tune, I have never kept a BBOT on my basses purely for ease of adjustment regardless of the tone it may or may not improve. [/quote] Saddle failure is one thing, and probably unrelated to the fact that the rest of the bridge is a BBOT. I too had a 'saddle failure' once, in that the screw unwound itself, dropping the E string right down. Other than that (and that bridge is still the one I use every day), BBOTs have been as solid as you could possibly ask for. And I play soft, so the sideways problem doesn't really exist. And remember, Leo expected it to be played fairly gently - it was a selling point that it was essentially effortless to play a Precision Bass compared to a doghouse! And that's something I'm learning for myself now - never expected to say it, but I now know which is the superior instrument! And why!

Yup, thinking of something with rails.

Oh, and if I do this, and like it, anyone want a Squier P5?

PM me a price, if you're happy to sell, and I'll set about acquiring a Classic 50s Precision!

Yes, it was. Of course, you don't know these things at the time...wish I still had it.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1422216282' post='2669999'] +1 As far as making a difference to 'tone' is concerned I'd agree with you, i.e. it makes no difference. In my humble opinion. But if you want a new bridge because you like how it looks, or it fits better with your playing style, then fine. [/quote] Entirely agree on change for appearance.

No-one has EVER found a BBOT type bridge (worthy of being called a bridge) in any way deficient in strength. So long as the bridge is firmly attached, that's all you need. The ONLY mod I could ever see being useful to that is screw runners to help sideslip a bit. Bridge changing (with the possible exception of the awful Gibson 3-point) is a waste of time and money. Tuners, that's the same, really. Even Squier tuners are well up to the job. However, tuners are where I waste MY money...

Yup, thinking it would take some getting used to, but be worth it.

Droooooool......

[quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1422138721' post='2669235'] Strangely, the spaghetti logo is what puts me off US Fenders...I prefer the TV logo from 69-74 (ish). [/quote] I can remember buying my first Fender (75 Precision) and being disappointed that it didn't have that big logo. It had one of the early sans serif logos - but with the serial still on the neckplate.

Amazing how many boxes of this stuff you can accumulate!

Strangely, the spaghetti logo is what puts me off US Fenders...I prefer the TV logo from 69-74 (ish).

Add to above: that was £235 brand new!

Down to just my two favourite 4 string Precisions and a 5er just in case. It's quite likely that the 5 will never leave its case again... Oh, and a Kingman ABG.Been so long since I played that, I forgot about it!

Ooh yes please, would be great!

As I currently have no gas, I have instead the wild idea of converting a C neck P bass (1.75 nut) to a tight-spaced fiver. I have heard of this being done, but not much knowledge seems to be available. Anyone here done it?

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1421939673' post='2666862'] When I wore rings on the third finger of each hand they never got in the way of my playing. [/quote] Snap!

The Streamer Standards are/were 'proper German'. I briefly had a 5er, and apart from the log like neck, it was a good bass. It was a bit of a leftover when the guitar shop I worked in started up, so I got it for cost+10%+VAT. £235.

Wot ee sed ^^^^^

That's exceedingly light for a 70s P - or indeed any P! Grab it if you can!