lettsguitars

You would need a laptop for sure, and at least a 4in/2out soundcard. It would also mean you could record all your gigs and surf the net at the same time You would get better performance than a mixer of the same price range not to mention the extra bonuses. Laptops can be picked up dirt cheap.

Just use a laptop daw as the mixer and get a simple power amp.

The reason for picking up a guitar was not to learn how to play it but start a band. Band came first and i picked the rest up along the way. I was 12 at the time and we wrote all our own material and played school gigs. We were always kinda famous in our schools from then on. That was 25 years ago when tight black jeans, long hair, crash course in brain surgery t-shirt and basketball boots was my school uniform. Good times.

Turn down the bass and treble and crank the volume.

It's a bit dark. Maybe tomorrow.

You cant move the bridge. The saddles should be where the original bridge saddles were positioned (roughly) based on the scale length of the bass. A 34" scale bass is 34" from nut to saddle with enough play to compensate for the string changing length slightly as you fret. The pots are either split shaft, or solid shaft with a flat edge for a lug screw or totally round. When you buy knobs they will say for split or solid shaft. If they are split shaft and the knobs wont go on you may be able to pinch the shafts in a little or spread out if they are loose. The higher quality pots will let you bend them without breaking. The cheaper ones will simply snap off.

True. Although, if freshening up was the only way, I think i'd strip the whole thing and refinish.

Shoe polish? What finish is that?

Classic. Not a great advert then. It wont necessarily need touching up though.

I mean that if you need the heel deepening I'm sure he'd do it for you. It's a ten minute job after all.

Well then. If the body's correct, and the neck is also correct, you shouldn't be having any problems.

I'm sure Phil would put it 'right' for you if you ask nicely. If not let me know coz he's a friend of the family.

How can it be right if it doesn't work. When you can play it, it's right.

Looks more than 10mm to me. At the edge maybe.

f***in 'ell mate, that's well high. Get your router out.

Dunno then. I'd need to see it.

The body and neck are both Phils? Thing is, fender necks are made from square material. The heel shouldn't have any taper in it at all. If the neck was made with the heel following the taper of the neck it will have a very slight back angle, whereas an original is dead flat in relation to the fingerboard to body, which is where I would say the problem lies. You need to shim the bridge up with some 4mm acoustic side material for example. Deepening the pocket will put the strings very close to the body which can be bad news if you do any slap/pop stuff. Your fingers will get trapped between string and body every time you pop one out.

Is it a single action truss rod then? Sounds like your heel pocket isn't deep enough for that particular neck. Can you deepen the pocket yourself? Relief isn't the problem here is it? Shim the bridge up, never shim a neck.

Coming along.

Any chance the mods can block anyone who mentions the word tonewood from basschat in the future? Or maybe dish out hefty fines for offenders. Wood is good, concrete is f***ing stupid. The whole argument/debate is f***ing stupid. Believe what you want and be happy.

High.

Maple fingerboards are inferior.