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[quote name='Warwick_Official' timestamp='1341340887' post='1717419']...the preamp in the Rockbass line is not the same as those used in German-made or Pro-Series basses. .... [/quote] Thanks for confirming that. Does this also mean that the Pro-series basses have exactly the same preamp as the Germans?

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1341314180' post='1716714']...Then again, I've never quite seen the point of acoustic basses. [/quote] I was wondering how long it would take before somebody questioned the need for an acoustic bass. I've heard various reasons given, but last weekend I discovered another reason: I had a gig lined up, but my shoulder had been killing me all day and I didn't fancy the weight of a solid-body, so I took my acoustic instead. My shoulder was immensely grateful, and by standing in the right spot I managed to hear myself without feedback becoming a problem. And as a bonus I got a few people complementing me on the sound.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1341335229' post='1717292']...2 band preamp (with pots) = 339 ....[/quote] That's the one thing that's definitely not the same - I remember querying that before, and WO confirmed that the preamps are different. Not that it changes your point very much. I think one simply has to conclude that they are trying to avoid selling the parts separately.

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1341272212' post='1716355'] I think that seller has had some 'difficulties' in the past. [/quote] A search for his name on here will turn up some interesting stories.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1341255355' post='1715932'] that makes no sense! Why are the parts so expensive then? I'm looking for a passive blend pot for my warwick. An MEC replacement will cost me £40 posted- a new rockbass, with a blend pot in it, can be found new for £200 !! surely it can't be the same parts?? [/quote] Have you got a link for a new (i.e. built after 2010, with the 2-piece bridge etc) RB for £200? All the ones I've seen at that sort of price are from before the re-vamp. Having said that, the pups in my (2008, old, no discernible QC) RB are absolutely identical to those in my NT Thumb. But based on silddx's comments, this may not be typical.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' timestamp='1340674992' post='1708043'] It would work, the bass would also balance better..... [/quote] This is a bit OT, but I think most people would find the balance significantly [i]worse[/i] when using the headstock button. I used to think it would be better, but then I tried it with a particularly neck-divey bass. With the strap tied to a string round the headstock the bass became so unbalanced that given half a chance the body would drop to the floor and the headstock would try and punch me in the side of the face. Not something I'd recommend! There's a reason why lots of acoustic players (on guitar or bass) do this but very few electric players - the body of an acoustic is rather lighter than that of a solidbody.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1340471777' post='1705016'] Definitely, compared to [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MARSHALL-Guvnor-Mk-1-Overdrive-Pedal-Made-England-Guvnor-/280897977537?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D280902188068%252B280902188068%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D117844477037019244"]this[/url] one. Good luck man. [/quote] That is a rather optimistic price, isn't it! [quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1340482563' post='1705193'] Note first one linked is made in Korea, and the later one is made in England. Not that it makes any actual odds, compared loads and there is as much variation in ones made in the same place as between the different places. [/quote] Is there much difference in the eBay pricing, from what you'be noticed? I happen to have a UK-built one, so am vaguely interested, kind of in the same way that I am about house prices, even though I don't have any plans to sell mine!

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1340099673' post='1698947']...I don't think I would have guessed from those pics that the pocket had been chiselled out - it looks to me more like the whole pocket has been shimmed out with some scrappy material ... which in theory would (as he claims to have done) raise the action. ...[/quote] Er, he claimed to have lowered the action, not raised it. And yes, from the pictures it does look like a shim, which would have been sensible, but in the text he says he used a chisel because of not having a router - whereas if it were just a shim, what was he planning to use a router for? My guess is that what looks like a shim is the top edge of the original body wood that has been taken off by his careless chiselling.

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1340053245' post='1698452'] i think thats just the Ronseal staining, and if it [i]is[/i] pieces of wood, then no, its not normal. [/quote] That's reassuring! It is hard to tell on that bass, but it looks to me as if on the smallest patch (a ring just over an inch or so wide) the grain doesn't match. I'm just wondering if this is a repair and means the bass took a bit of a knock some time.

Excuse a noobie question about Ps, but how many pieces of wood are there in that body? Looking at the picture of the bottom edge (nearest the control cavity; about the 8th picture down, I think) the wood grain makes it looks like there are two thin slices forming the bottom of the bass. Is that standard?

[quote name='apa' timestamp='1339757935' post='1693784'] Does anyone make / play a fretless Fanned? Ie the bridge and nut being the fanned element. A [/quote] Good question. So good, in fact, that I asked it myself a while back. Look here for the answer: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/109356-just-bought-a-dingwall-afterburner-d/page__view__findpost__p__1013047"]http://basschat.co.u...ost__p__1013047[/url]

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1339342440' post='1687090']....Some good science going on there, rather than the usual made up guff that gets repeated over and over. [/quote] Except for the stuff about being killed by 9v batteries, presumably?

I've got a $$ from July 2010 and it's quite thin.

[quote name='lobematt' timestamp='1339071935' post='1683204']...Anyway. I want the switch to be bypassed really. Is there a way that I can wire it to just have the bass set to passive, the blend still be a blend and both pickups on? [/quote] Does your vol/bal pot have a pcb attached to it, or are the wires soldered to regular tabs? If it's got a pcb then it's going to be quite fiddly to hardwire a bypass to the push/pull switch. If it's regular tabs then it should be straightforward.

What models had a separate preamp-bypass switch? All the Warwicks I know of that have a preamp bypass have it as a push-pull on the volume control. Separate switches are usually for coil-splitting (as on the wiring diagram that ET posted, which looks like the right one for the OP's bass) or for LEDs. There are some Warwicks that do have a push-pull that [i]isn't[/i] a preamp bypass though. I can't remember which, but I remember long discussions on the Warwick forum that concluded that there are some which have a scoop or slap contour or something. Presumably if you have a bass with passive pups then it's easy to tell which sort of switch you have: take the batteries out. If it still works (with one of the switch positions) then it's a preamp bypass.

+1. I'm pretty sure the jazzman pups are passive, so you just need to wire in some new volume/tone controls. As usual, Seymour Duncan is a good place to start: [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=musicman_pbass"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=musicman_pbass[/url]

[quote name='BELA' timestamp='1338920142' post='1681133']....the frets are also important.... [/quote] No, I can't agree with you there, I'm afraid:

[quote name='BELA' timestamp='1338896296' post='1680673'] What about the trus rod? Should I worry about it? I think I have read some bad things about early Warwicks and broken rods...or maybe not. The purchase would be on-line so I cannot check it out myself. [/quote] Didn't the early Warwicks have removable trussrods, so if there was a problem you could replace it? I can't remember when they stopped that, but I'd guess it might have been around '96/'97 when they started putting volutes on. So you shouldn't need to worry about a '94.

Sent Anth some strings and he was great to deal with, and very generous. Thoroughly recommended!

[quote name='pst62' timestamp='1338290219' post='1672106'] First time I've seen the back of one of those. Very surprised to see it has bolt on necks. [/quote] Me too, but a quick skim through google suggests that the bass double-necks were bolt-ons, whereas the 362 12/6 necks were glued-in. Anyway, I always thought the factory ones were upside down - I'd want the bass neck at the bottom, and a 12-string neck on top. So one day I will buy two Ricks and stick them together, just like Rutherford et al.

[quote name='giblett123' timestamp='1337885208' post='1667014'] Saw the offer.... neck thru 5er for £300? ....[/quote] Wow, that's a steal!

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1337686907' post='1663920'] tisk ill do it for you then.... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymlIdjqDVDg[/media] [/quote] Interesting that it's a wengé neck in that video, not ovangkol....

[quote name='Warwick_Official' timestamp='1337776379' post='1665245']...They feature the Just-a-Nut III, and the exact same 2-piece 3D bridges, security strap locks, machine heads, and electronics that are used on the high-end German built models.... [/quote] When you say the "exact same ... electronics" you mean the same pickups, right? Or are the preamps now the same as the 2-band fitted on the (cheaper) German Warwicks? [quote name='Warwick_Official' timestamp='1337776379' post='1665245']... and quality control is a priority. I hope this helps...best of luck! [/quote] Which is just as well, because QC on the old RBs was poor and overlooked such details as getting the bridge and pickups in the right place: